Topic: Way high RPM after carbs rebuild

[TwoTired]

What you haven't polished your condensers?  What a rookie!





Just kidding...

Timing looks good me if that alignment was the transition from dark to light.

Did you set the point gap first?

Cheers,

[Can550]

What you haven't polished your condensers?  What a rookie!





Just kidding...

Timing looks good me if that alignment was the transition from dark to light.

Did you set the point gap first?

Cheers,

Yes I did to 13


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[Can550]

Oh by the way just noticed/ remembered, while the test light comes ON on F1-4, I just removed test lamp and connected to 2-3 and it lights up. Some f^*+ up or normal


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[TwoTired]

Points cam is designed to close each contact for 190-ish degrees, leaving an overlap.  This is dwell time or the time spent charging up the coils.

I do new points to 0.016 Thou.

Wonder if you have a bad cam or something bent.

Have you removed the timing advancer?

[Can550]

No I have not removed advancer

How do I find out if cam is bad ?


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[TwoTired]

If the cam surface is smooth and not grooved, it's ok.

The shaft that it is mounted on could be bent.

You should check the run out of the shaft under the cam.

Rig up a rigid wire pointer near the shaft and rotate the crank.  The pointer to shaft distance should remain the same throughout crank rotation through 360 degrees.

[Can550]

Ok
Got it

Ran again
Starts only with choke
The moment choke is returned, shuts

Should I lube the wick on points plate, seems dry. Engine oil is ok ?

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[flybox1]

Ok
Got it

Ran again
Starts only with choke Typical
The moment choke is returned, shuts .   turn IN the idle set screw to keep RPM at 1200

Should I lube the wick on points plate, seems dry. Engine oil is ok ? yes, but only a little

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[Can550]

That's good.  Be nice to verify with an ohm meter, the end to end resistance, plug cap connection to plug cap connection for each coil.
S/B ~ 25-35KΩ.

Have you looked at the spark system in the dark to see if there is visible arcing?

Cheers,
[/quote]

Am I doing it right ?



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[flybox1]

If that cap is rated 5K ohms...its going bad.  IIWM id replace it.
You'll find the rating stamped on it.

5K caps should read 4.7-4.9K ohms when new

[Can550]

I also checked plug cap to plug cap for 1-4 and 2-3

Respectively it is in following photos ( if it makes any sense)




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[TwoTired]

That's good.  Be nice to verify with an ohm meter, the end to end resistance, plug cap connection to plug cap connection for each coil.
S/B ~ 25-35KΩ.

Have you looked at the spark system in the dark to see if there is visible arcing?

Cheers,

Am I doing it right ?
[/quote]


No.  The black plug should be in the COM socket on your meter.  Al your measurements are invalid.

Do you read the meter's operation manual?

[Can550]

Sorry Two Tired
I did read the manual and by mistake switched the black connector.

However when back in to COM port coil 1-4 reads 31.7 and spark plug cover reads 8.3


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[TwoTired]

Almost certainly, your other plug caps were 10K -ish when new and were good for 20% tolerance + or - (that's 2KΩ).  Years of current through them has likely fused some of the carbon pile resistors inside, which lowers the resistance.  Probably should check the others, just to know.

I don't know where to find replacement 10 K caps, apart from used.  I prefer these for the 550.  But the industry has switched to resistor plugs (5K) and so the 10K caps are out of favor for the manufacturers who now only make 5K caps.

Either will work, and what you have will work ok.  The big thing is that the caps don't read open circuit or infinity resistance.

Your end to end test of the coils show they are ok for continuity, and should produce the required voltage to spark the plugs.  Carefully inspect the lead insulation for cracks.  That will let the spark voltage out and make a path to engine block/frame.  Easier to see that action in a darkened garage.

Still need to check the runout on the point cam shaft, before declaring the ignition system operable.

Cheers,

[Can550]

Good morning

Opened up valve/tappet covers and checked clearance adjustments. All seemed fine except inlet of #2 and exhaust #3. Now I am confident that all are properly adjust as I checked twice.

I haven't been able to figure how to bench sync while carbs are in the bike.

If I drop all (pistons) sliders to reach bottom and then raise with idle adjuster ?
Thanks


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[flybox1]

Good morning

Opened up valve/tappet covers and checked clearance adjustments. All seemed fine except inlet of #2 and exhaust #3. Now I am confident that all are properly adjust as I checked twice.   Great!

I haven't been able to figure how to bench sync while carbs are in the bike. For the sake of accuracy, you should take them off First reset all vac adjuster screws to mid-travel, and then bench sync the slides. 

If I drop all (pistons) sliders to reach bottom and then raise with idle adjuster ?
Thanks


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[Can550]

Damn
Came up to bike, re filled aux tank (hanging from ceiling) as I turned the gas ON, #3 carb bowl overflow started leaking. This thing is giving me so much grief

Now I'll pull the carbs out


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[flybox1]

if they didnt overflow last time, just bang on the carb mount plate to free up the floats.

[firebane]

Damn
Came up to bike, re filled aux tank (hanging from ceiling) as I turned the gas ON, #3 carb bowl overflow started leaking. This thing is giving me so much grief

Now I'll pull the carbs out


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These bikes are stupid sensitive on the floats. It took me forever to get to a point where mine would not leak badly. My 1 and 3 were really bad but I'm confident they are good now.

How I did my bench sync was this.

1. Adjust idle screw completely out
2. Use individual slide adjusters to lower the slides to the floor
3. Turn in idle screw and watch which slide moves up first (Use this as your master); Only want a slight movement.
4. With 1/8" drill bit on the master slide adjust with adjuster screw till it just fits in then lock down nut
5. Proceed to adjust the other 3 the same way

Once completed you should be able to back out your idle screw and all slides will touch the floor and cause a stall if you do this. Adjust idle screw back to where a 1/8 bit will just fit and this should be a good base.

[Can550]

Thanks firebane
I removed the bowl of #3, moved (carefully) float up and down put the bowl back on. Connected fuel and it leaked again, tapped on sides (as you suggested) it stopped leaking

Carbs are still in bike. I'm avoiding taking them off as lately too much time has gone in to all this. Probably in a day or two if I'm back to the spirit and time.

Much appreciated and thanks once again


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[Oddjob]

If your using DR7EA plugs then those are resistors plug and shouldn't be used with high resistance plug caps, can't remember offhand what the resistance should be but to be safe get some D7EA plugs.

Altering 1-4 timing WILL alter 2-3 timing, the plate 2-3 sits on is bolted to the backplate, as you rotate the plate to get the timing for 1-4 right you'll alter the timing for 2-3 as that's moving as well, get 1-4 right and then do 2-3, that's why it has a separate plate.

[Can550]

Thanks Oddjob
Did some forum search on DR7EA vs D7EA and found some discussion on same subject. It states that DR7EA will work but life will be half compared to D7EA. The very fact you noted since these are R resistance packed 5ohms once these build more resistance, will demand/ need more power that coils will be unable to deliver. So I guess I'll keep them for now (meantime will order D7EA).

If it is going to make a difference in my initial tune up/ sync, then I'll wait to do it till I receive.

Had adjusted timing already with two separate plates adjustment. I'm not on the dot despite trying several times. Just a tad off, I'll say 99.5% accurate.

1-4 fires up just a hair before F and 2-3 fire up right on F.


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[firebane]

As long as you use 5k caps with R type plugs you will be fine.

[Can550]

As long as you use 5k caps with R type plugs you will be fine.

But being stock, my caps are to be 10k


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[firebane]

As long as you use 5k caps with R type plugs you will be fine.

But being stock, my caps are to be 10k


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Possible but never assume unless you have verified. My bike had a hodge podge of caps and plugs and the bike would just not run right. Put proper plugs and caps and runs like a champ.