Author Topic: The Lost Socket Garage (Read 56224 times)

Scott S · « **Reply #300 on:** April 21, 2019, 02:05:56 PM »

Went for Take 2 on the seat. I removed it from the 'glassed in pan a week or two ago.
Was gonna use some metal and spacers, per the instructions on the HotWings Glass site. Then we decided that the seat pan made for good metal. Did some more trimming and now we just have to use some small spacers and hardware and I can STILL mount the seat to the stock pan and have working hinge and latch.
I also trimmed down the lower edge some (not quite finished yet). It sits much nicer with the end of the tank, not as high at the rear, and doesn't look as "thick" as before. Much nicer lines, IMO.

Scott S · « **Reply #301 on:** April 21, 2019, 02:08:57 PM »

Also, if you look really close, you can see that I have the headlight ears and front turn signals installed. Been doing a lot of work on the wiring with still a little bit to go. Got the coils mounted and new plug caps installed, too.

Gurp · « **Reply #302 on:** April 22, 2019, 09:40:06 AM »

I know the feel of dropping one... I build a failed scew jack exp this year and it almost lost my choppa project off the side of the lift.
Thats super cool on the invite only show. Really speaks of the quality of work you do!!
Keep it up duder!

Scott S · « **Reply #303 on:** April 22, 2019, 05:21:45 PM »

This pic doesn't look like much, but it represents a lot of work and parts sourcing. The bike came to me without the torque arm, backing plate arm, brake rod, brake pedal, spring, chain guard, rear brake switch and more.
I got probably 75% of it from my parts stash and sourced the rest. I also removed the lower shock bolts and the swing arm end caps and wire brushed and clear coated them (remember, this bike was a victim of the roof collapse at CalJ's and all that stuff wast rusty).
I also sanded and lubed the splined rear brake actuator.
Even the RH foot peg was in pieces and missing parts.

Scott S · « **Reply #304 on:** April 22, 2019, 05:23:42 PM »

Meanwhile, the SR500 just waits....

I do have some news on this, but I'm waiting for the final report. I sent the stator and CDI to Rex's in England and their initial report seems to have found something. I'll update when I have full details (and, hopefully, spark).

Fezzler · « **Reply #305 on:** April 22, 2019, 05:33:44 PM »

So cool you are putting Cals bike back together!

Greaser Greg · « **Reply #306 on:** April 22, 2019, 07:33:13 PM »

Quote from: Scott S on April 21, 2019, 01:55:57 PM

A couple of weeks ago I went to change the fork seals and oil. My scissor jack wouldn't fit on both frame rails because of the exhaust. I thought I could use one frame rail and a block of wood on the sump.
That didn't go so well.

The bike started moving as I jacked it up, the center stand folded and the next thing I know the bike is coming down. And I'm all alone in the garage.
Luckily, I was able to gently set it down without any damage to anything but my pride.

Got the forks rebuilt and got it back on two wheels with the help of my wonderful girlfriend, when she got home.

If I may be so bold as to suggest, a rope or strap to a screw eye in the ceiling; in my carport has served well to hold a front end aloft. Pulleys have even allowed me to comfortably lift the bike to remove forks and wheels all by my lonesome, safely. Just make sure the overhead suspension is angled to keep pressure to the bike's posterior so it stays on the stand.
Looks like a fun ride!

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #307 on:** April 22, 2019, 08:46:12 PM »

Wow, Scott! The springer bike is coming along nicely!

Scott S · « **Reply #308 on:** April 23, 2019, 03:24:07 AM »

Quote from: Greaser Greg on April 22, 2019, 07:33:13 PM

Quote from: Scott S on April 21, 2019, 01:55:57 PM
A couple of weeks ago I went to change the fork seals and oil. My scissor jack wouldn't fit on both frame rails because of the exhaust. I thought I could use one frame rail and a block of wood on the sump.
That didn't go so well.

The bike started moving as I jacked it up, the center stand folded and the next thing I know the bike is coming down. And I'm all alone in the garage.
Luckily, I was able to gently set it down without any damage to anything but my pride.

Got the forks rebuilt and got it back on two wheels with the help of my wonderful girlfriend, when she got home.
If I may be so bold as to suggest, a rope or strap to a screw eye in the ceiling; in my carport has served well to hold a front end aloft. Pulleys have even allowed me to comfortably lift the bike to remove forks and wheels all by my lonesome, safely. Just make sure the overhead suspension is angled to keep pressure to the bike's posterior so it stays on the stand.
Looks like a fun ride!

Normally, the scissor jack and center stand are solid as a rock. I've had the entire front and rear suspension off before, including the swing arm. I just couldn't get it balanced properly with the exhaust in the way of the frame rail. That's why I'm leaving the exhaust off for now, until I get the new wheels and tires on it.

Gurp · « **Reply #309 on:** April 23, 2019, 04:41:04 AM »

4 into 1 headers are bad for that.... You can always make a groove in a board and run it under the bare frame rail. Ive done that before. You are usually within a 1/2 in of level. Just make sure if you use more than one board you screw them together. We can all guess why i know this.

Kelly E · « **Reply #310 on:** April 23, 2019, 07:07:28 AM »

I use the engine hoist to hang one end of the bike from if I need to do something like that. Before I had a lift table I just hung the whole bike from the engine hoist.

Scott S · « **Reply #311 on:** May 11, 2019, 10:55:32 AM »

Take 3 on the seat, but I think we got it this time!
I cut off nearly an inch from the bottom edge and trimmed the pan some more. Notice how well the bottom edge of the tank and seat line up now.

Used some rubber grommets, bolts and washers to bolt it to the pan. Used two existing holes at the front and drilled two more at the rear (you can see our first attempt... I'll call those speed holes!). The seat is now rubber mounted to the pan and the pan latches and hinges just like stock.

Now I hafta take it all apart again and treat/paint the rusty donor pan.

Gurp · « **Reply #312 on:** May 11, 2019, 01:39:10 PM »

Scott ita nothing a wire wheel amd some primer cant fix!!!
Good work on the seat!

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #313 on:** May 11, 2019, 09:46:47 PM »

The fit looks right.

Scott S · « **Reply #314 on:** May 12, 2019, 10:47:25 AM »

Cut up an old fork brace....

...and made some brackets for the rear turn signals.

They tuck in real nice and will hardly be noticeable when they're not flashing.

And they will just peak out from either side of the license plate once the tail light/plate mount is on there.

Scott S · « **Reply #315 on:** May 12, 2019, 10:49:21 AM »

I also found a pretty nice chain guard. I dig the old checkered flag dealer sticker on there. Anybody ever heard of them?

Fezzler · « **Reply #316 on:** May 12, 2019, 11:05:12 AM »

Sticker is cool bling.

Scott S · « **Reply #317 on:** May 12, 2019, 11:56:35 AM »

Front turn signals are pretty stealthy, too.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #318 on:** May 12, 2019, 09:46:39 PM »

That sticker makes the chain guard.

Scott S · « **Reply #319 on:** May 19, 2019, 10:54:54 AM »

FINALLY!!!!

Just need to get some fuel line in the correct size and I can start putting it back together!

RAFster122s · « **Reply #320 on:** May 19, 2019, 02:29:46 PM »

Congrats Scott!
David

jgger · « **Reply #321 on:** May 19, 2019, 04:10:56 PM »

Well that was pretty simple................NOT!

Congrats we all know how close you were to using matches, way to stick with it.

Scott S · « **Reply #322 on:** May 20, 2019, 02:40:29 AM »

I guess it was the stator. I sent it to Rex's in England and they wound it with the proper wire and set the proper gap on the pickup coil.

My original factory stator tested good. I've seen at least one other person with the same issues I had: everything tests good but stator is bad. He had his "good" stator rewound and that fixed his problem. That's essentially what I did .... but I took the long route.

Rick's Electrics tried 3 times to get it right and eventually refunded my money. Apparently, even the size of the wire used in the windings has an effect. Ohms aren't always ohms. They said it ohmed out within factory spec but Rex's said the wrong gauge wire was used a d it would never run right. Rex's rewound it and I got spark on the first kick.

Gurp · « **Reply #323 on:** May 20, 2019, 03:37:36 AM »

I have never heard of that happening. Crazy to think the ga has such much effect as its bare wire and contacts everywhere. what did that cost you have it sent out if you don't mind me asking I'm sure a few of us are wondering as this could be a problem that hits members in the future as well.

Scott S · « **Reply #324 on:** May 20, 2019, 04:27:20 AM »

Stator winding was about $300, give or take, from both places. Shipping to England was higher, of course. Cost me about $65 and I had to take a chance on putting a low value on it, for import duties, etc, that Rex's would have to charge back to me. Luckily, it made it there and back safely.

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Author Topic: The Lost Socket Garage (Read 56224 times)