Topic: torque wrenches

[kenzie]

just going to torque down the head on my cb 750, I have one of those old needle type torque wrenches, how good are these? or should I buy a better one? I am thinking this one probably isnt going to be very accurate. Has anyone else used one of these and still had success?

[aptech77]

Works better than nothing. I use a Snap-on QC2FR75.

[csendker]

I have a 3/8" ratchet-type, as per my usua; al typical cheap one.  I'm not thrilled with it, and almost long for the good old needle type.  Of course, it could be that I'm still not terribly familiar with it so I suspect pilot error is more to blame here than a possibly crappy wrench.

[ofreen]

There's nothing wrong with beam-type torque wrenches.  If they are accurately calibrated when made, they will stay accurate.  They are just not as handy as the clickers sometimes.  But if you can can get right above the needle and scale to eliminate parallax when using it, and use the correct technique, they work fine.

[brimar6]

Your deflecting beam torque wrench is fine ( as long as you have'nt used it for a hammer). Believe it or not there are less things that can go wrong with it than the break action (click) type. If you do a search there is at least one other thread here on SOHC covering this subject.

[Lumbee]

...yep, I have the old beam type...it was in the tool box I "aquired" from my colledge days.  Its rusty and I don't know how many years old, but have rebuilt 3 motors with it, and no problems...

[kettlesd]

I use the needle type as well - Dad gave me one as a gift years ago.

My mechanic father always preferred the deflecting type with the needle over the "breaking" ratchet type. He said that over time the breakers can lose their calibration while with the needle type what you see is what you get!

[bill440cars]

                I use an antique (1972) Snap-On QJR3200A (1/2" ratcheting, click type). I always back off
      the setting, wipe it down and it back in the plastic case made for it, when not in use. I've had it
      checked for calibration a few times, in the past, and it's always been in tolerance. I guess the care I     
      give it has paid off. I've got a Craftsman 3/8" beam type for smaller jobs. Some things I don't worry   
      about torquing, while others, I wouldn't think about NOT torquing. Long Live the SOHC4s!!

           
                                                      Later on, Bill

[Blaize]

I am a pro Porsche mechanic by trade and have a selection of three snap-on ratchet clickers at work for wheels and suspension and such. But whenever I am in an engine and always when I am on my own cars and/or bikes I always use the old flex bar needle type. The clickers will go out of whack over time (faster if you leave them wound up in your toolbox by the way) but the old ones, provided they are good quality (and mine are both craftsman so they only need to be so good), will never lose calibration.

 This is always a subject of great debate in the shop and there are good arguments on both sides, but I have NEVER had a problem with the old ones. and I once had a set of main driveshaft bolts on a cayenne turbo back out and they were set with a clicker.

[kghost]

An interesting note to this discussion.........

The FAA requires torque wrenches to be calibrated in order to be used on aircraft. They must be recalibrated based on time intervals. Usually every 24 months.

All my torque wrenches are calibrated. The company pays for it and the part numbers for each wrench are tracked by quality control.

[medic09]

I am a pro Porsche mechanic by trade and have a selection of three snap-on ratchet clickers at work for wheels and suspension and such. But whenever I am in an engine and always when I am on my own cars and/or bikes I always use the old flex bar needle type. The clickers will go out of whack over time (faster if you leave them wound up in your toolbox by the way) but the old ones, provided they are good quality (and mine are both craftsman so they only need to be so good), will never lose calibration.

 This is always a subject of great debate in the shop and there are good arguments on both sides, but I have NEVER had a problem with the old ones. and I once had a set of main driveshaft bolts on a cayenne turbo back out and they were set with a clicker.

Okay, Blaize, I've got a dumb novice question:  what do you mean by "wound up" ?  I've got a Husky I bought just a little while back (foolishly we didn't take many of my dad's tools when we could have); only used it maybe three times to date.  How does it "wind up"?  For that matter, how does one 'unwind' it?

Thanks!

[aptech77]

What he means is, when you turn the handle in to set the proper torque setting. This action puts tension on the spring and mechanisms inside, and constant tension on the spring, makes it weaker over time. Faster if you constantly leave tention on it, instead of unscrewing it to take the tention off the spring.

[medic09]

What he means is, when you turn the handle in to set the proper torque setting. This action puts tension on the spring and mechanisms inside, and constant tension on the spring, makes it weaker over time. Faster if you constantly leave tention on it, instead of unscrewing it to take the tention off the spring.

Thanks.

So when I'm done, I ought to reset it to the lowest torque?

[aptech77]

Yes,
 Turn the handle all the way down so there is NO tension.

[nteek754]

Hey all  my thinking on the needle type is cool as long as when not in use its (the needle) is on zero good luck have fun seven fifty four ever Craig in Maine

[ElCheapo]

1/4", 3/8", 1/2" Snap-on clickers. I have 6 different ones. These range from 0-300 down to in-lbs.

I would not use anything else for any reason. These are re calibrated about every 2 years by the Snap on truck. Costs about $10 each to do them. After tearing the inserts out of an aluminum block many years ago I tossed that beam torque wrench right in the ditch and never looked back.

With clickers people commonly forget proper care.

1. ALWAYS return the torque wrench to 0 before storing it. Also when you put it away make sure it is in a CASE! This makes sure the calibration stays accurate.
2. Keep your torque wrenches oiled. DO NOT SLOBBER THEM IN OIL. This only attracts dirt which will ruin the torque wrench.
3. Handle them with care, Don't use them as a hammer for God's sake!
4. If you drop one (this happens from time to time) Double check the accuracy against another torque wrench.
5. Use the right one for the right job. If you are doing a 35lb torque setting you do not want to use the 0-200 wrench, instead you should be using a 0-75 or 100 wrench. This is because a torque wrench is more accurate the closer to the center of the scale you get.
6. Never let a torque wrench get wet with water. If it does clean it immediately with wd-40 to remove the water.