Topic: Stock bike, stock jetting, still rich?!

[DaveBarbier]

Seems to not be the jets, but you can measure the jet sizes with different size electrical wire. Or even from a wire brush. Anything that’s the right diameter. A jet is measure in mm and the number corresponds to the size. A size 42 jet is .42mm. And size 102 jet is 1.02mm and so on.

Glad you seem to be doing better though. Ride that new engine harder! Bring those rpms up!

[HondaMan]

Yikes! I never would have considered that. The timing on 1-4 and 2-3 is solid and steady at idle. However, when i rev it to 2,500 to check the advance, it is jittery. I figured that the timing light was receiving interference due to the close proximity of the other wires. If the shaft were bet, would it cause the timing to appear jittery at idle, or is it possible that it could appear as normal at idle and jittery at advance?

If it is jittering back-and-forth in degrees when revved up, as opposed to intermittent appearance of timing, it can be either the bent shaft, or it can also be a loose spark advancer cam (on the advancer's post), or just sticky and dirty. I have seen the very loose spark cam bounce back-and-forth because it wobbles on the shaft. In that instance, it turned out to be that the owner had installed a points cam from another advancer, and they were not the same dimensions. This left the points cam able to wobble almost 0.010" and it was bouncing timing all over, both points sets.

But, if it is just the 2-3 set, it is most likely the bent shaft. This is because of the way the shaft bends, given the position of the hole in the end of the crankshaft, when the big nut is pulled CCW, usually with a long wrench. You may find that the advancer itself can be turned forward-backward a little bit (using the big nut) without the crank moving: then it needs to be shimmed on the advancer post to take up this slack, too.

[Dirtdevil]

Ive ruled out jetting. I moved the #1 jets to the #4 carb and it made no difference. Also, Ive checked the advance on 1-4 and 2-3 and it was within the marks.
Floats are good! Ive covered this multiple times. I checked the levels and they are all between 3mm and 4mm below the split line of the bowl and carb body. I checked them while on the bike, and with the bike level.

I need to check the runout on the timing shaft. As Hondaman said, 2-3 were jittery, but only while it was at 2,500 and advanced. it was dead steady at "f" while idling. I don't  know if this was because the lead of the light was in contact with the #4 wire too, and maybe getting some interference, or if it was actually jittery. Ill need to give it another go with the light this weekend and maybe check the runout with a dial indicator.