Author Topic: Starting a rusty '77 CB550K (Read 41070 times)

Tvag · « **Reply #125 on:** January 25, 2007, 01:09:22 PM »

This is all I can find online.

http://www.servicehonda.com/parts.php?partnumber=45530-404-305&getpart=1

Add $9 minimum shipping costs. I'm still looking...

csendker · « **Reply #126 on:** January 25, 2007, 06:28:17 PM »

I'm not sure it will help much, but it seems that the '77 550K & the '77 750K used the same MC. At least the parts fiche lists the MC rebuild with the same part number. You may have better luck looking for it under the 750 parts.

MASTER CYLINDER SET
45530-404-315

I've attached both parts diagrams for your viewing pleasure. And the MC rebuild kit is listed on the Crotchrocket website, although that by no means implies that it is actually available (MC sheet; Item #14, $37.11). You could give them a shout to see if they do in fact have any though.

http://www.crotchrocket.com/fiche_select.asp?mfg=Honda&vcc=Motorcycles&year=1977&fveh=2946

Tvag · « **Reply #127 on:** January 26, 2007, 05:31:09 AM »

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I went to the dealer last night as I was in the area and thought I should at least see what they had. $42.60

. There is a strange gap there with the master cylinders. No aftermarket kits at all. Servicehonda.com it is. However, this project is on hold as I blew most of my budget on the carbs and cashflow has all but receeded.

csendker · « **Reply #128 on:** January 26, 2007, 07:15:22 AM »

It is kind of odd how difficult it is to get stuff for the '77 MC. Maybe just snag a MC from '75 or '76, rebuild that and swap it out? For that matter, you should probably verify that you do have a '77 MC before you go get stuff for it.

Stevearino · « **Reply #129 on:** January 26, 2007, 01:31:34 PM »

I too have a '77 that was manufactured in '76. Keep in mind that your bike might have "early" parts on it. Have fun.

csendker · « **Reply #130 on:** January 28, 2007, 06:53:59 PM »

Hey Tvag, is this what you're looking for?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-CB750-CB550-CB450-GL1000-GL1500-NOS-Brake-Boot_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35592QQihZ011QQitemZ320074207061QQrdZ1

Or better yet, try Crotchrocket.com, it's listed for $5.30 (if they have it...).

Tvag · « **Reply #131 on:** January 29, 2007, 06:18:20 AM »

Quote from: csendker on January 28, 2007, 06:53:59 PM

Hey Tvag, is this what you're looking for?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-CB750-CB550-CB450-GL1000-GL1500-NOS-Brake-Boot_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35592QQihZ011QQitemZ320074207061QQrdZ1

Or better yet, try Crotchrocket.com, it's listed for $5.30 (if they have it...).

Thanks CSendker,

But no, that's not the part I'm looking for. I need this little piece right where the arrow is...

I've been calling it a boot. Someone referred to it as the diaphragm. Whatever it is... I'm pretty confident the same piece on any of these late '70's Honda SOHC's will do the job. I've cleaned and reinstalled my master cylinder and it seems to be in great shape. Obviously I'll be testing it a lot before I start really riding on it but... for now this little piece is all that I left out. TT says its function is to keep the dust out. Well, for the sake of keeping this project moving I'm willing to go without it until I can find a replacement. I can't afford blowing a wad on an entire master cylinder rebuild kit. Don't get me wrong if the brakes aren't working well, I'll go get the kit. But if it works fine now, I can be patient hoping to scrounge a suitable replacement for this little part.

Tonight I intend on using my newly cleaned Master Cylinder to pump the piston out of the brake caliper so I can finally inspect and clean it.

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #132 on:** January 29, 2007, 06:26:35 AM »

Honda does indeed refer to that as a "BOOT" in the parts list.

TwoTired · « **Reply #133 on:** January 29, 2007, 08:53:19 AM »

Quote

Well, for the sake of keeping this project moving I'm willing to go without it until I can find a replacement.

Well, okay. But, don't underestimate it's long term importance. Dust is abrasive. It will eventually wear and possibly score the piston and cylinder wall, rendering the master cylinder worthless. Then you get to replace the whole thing.

I think I might makeshift a boot from plastic baggie material for the interim, until you can get the proper part.

Cheers,

Tvag · « **Reply #134 on:** January 30, 2007, 05:11:08 AM »

After reinstalling the Master Cylinder I pumped the hand brake and turned the bleeder.
Pump, turn, release, turn - Pump, turn, release, turn - Pump, turn, release, turn - Pump, turn, release, turn - Pump, turn, release, turn - Pump, turn, release, turn - Pump, turn, release, turn - Pump, turn, release, turn - Pump, turn, release, turn - Pump, turn, release, turn - Pump, turn, release, turn... You get the point.
I did this for 2 hours with no shread of evidence, other than a couple bubbles escaping into the cylinder, that anything was being accomplished. So... I tore the whole thing down again and reinstalled it. Figured there was some air seeping in somewhere fouling all my efforts. I then went to Walmart and got myself a big plastic syringe. I brought it home, filled it with DOT3, hooked it up to the bleeder and pumped it in. Bubbles a plenty flowing into the master. Pump, pump, pump, pump the hand brake... and POP out comes the piston in the brake caliper! FINALLY, only been working on that for 2 weeks.

Speed bleeder??? I think I'll make the investment after THAT experience. It was F'ing cold out in that garage too. So, upon inspection...
Oring is in good shape. There is some scoring and discoloration on the inside of the caliper but it all seems smooth. Piston has a little bit of pitting but not bad (1 or 2 noticable spots). Going to reassemble tonight I hope.

What grease is used between the brake pad, the plastic ring, and the piston? It looks clear or yellowish and is pretty thick.

Nevermind, found the post! http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=14251.msg147955#msg147955

medic09 · « **Reply #135 on:** January 30, 2007, 05:25:50 AM »

Hey Tvag, good for you. Yeah, I'll bet a garage in CT can be cold around now!

If you assemble everything without that boot, I suggest you take a big piece of tape or ribbon or....and label it "boot missing" and put it on the assemble where you can't miss it. I'll bet there are stories around here about reassembling things 'without tightening that bolt' or 'without that piece that's on order', and then three months later riding off in the Spring without 'it'.

Tom/El Cheapo advised me when I was going to 'just replace the wiring harness' not to ever plan to be done the same day. As you've seen, sometimes it's the same week or month!

Keep us all posted.

Tvag · « **Reply #136 on:** January 31, 2007, 05:45:39 AM »

Quote

I think I might makeshift a boot from plastic baggie material for the interim, until you can get the proper part.

Thanks to Dagersh, I found some 'shoe goo' and repaired the boot pretty well. It's ugly but it does it's job. That's what I need from this bike right now. To do it's job. Thanks to Dagersh and TT.

BREAKTHROUGH Not only does this 1977 CB550K start and run... Now it even STOPS!! Last night after a little more cleaning with 000 steel wool, I reinstalled the piston and brake pads. I bought a $5 40oz tube of silicon grease at NAPA that did the trick for reassembling the brakes. Put them back on the bike, more brake fluid, bled the system and what do you know? They actually worked. That was a larger job than I had anticipated but not nearly as big as the carbs. The brakes actually work. I was starting to doubt myself. Project 'Stopping a Rusty '77 CB550K': DONE

medic09 · « **Reply #137 on:** January 31, 2007, 09:50:28 AM »

What's next?

Tvag · « **Reply #138 on:** January 31, 2007, 10:07:56 AM »

You know, Medic, i was thinking that very question. There is so much I need to do. I figured I'd leave the tune up (cam chain, valves, synch, etc...) until it was warmer outside.

So really that leaves me with electrical, rims and OLD tires, rusty chain and sprokets, rust in the gas tank (can't find beet molasses anywhere!!), along with a thourough cleaning. Problem is Grad school starts up again tomorrow night. Working fulltime, school takes up all of my spare time. And I just bought this house which is in need of maintenance as well. So I need a project where I can work inside a little at a time. I'm going to have to buy a new chain and sprokets. The chain is rusted through and kinked. No salvaging it. So that can wait. I guess I can pull my front wheel, take the tire and tube off and start scraping and grinding the rust away.

What do you guys think? I'm kind of feel like I don't know what I should do next. The fenders are in bad shape too. Lots of rust. I could pull the front fender with the tire and work on them. Do I even need fenders??

TwoTired · « **Reply #139 on:** January 31, 2007, 10:09:24 AM »

Quote from: Tvag on January 31, 2007, 05:45:39 AM

I bought a $5 40oz tube of silicon grease at NAPA that did the trick for reassembling the brakes. Put them back on the bike, more brake fluid, bled the system and what do you know?

I really hate to rain on your parade. But, there is a huge difference between grease that contains silicone and a pure silicone grease. Pure silicone grease doesn't liquify, run and soak into the brake pads above 200 degrees F, like a petrolem grease w/ added silicone will. As you might imagine, the disc brake and caliper can easily get over 200 degrees. But, the stopping power of the brake relies on friction to perform it's job. And, liquified grease will reduce friction. Years ago, I tried a product call Syl-Glide. Sure enough, it liquified after heavy use of the front brake, contaminated the pads, and ruined the stopping power of the front brake. Had to replace the pads, clean off all the old goo and spend additional money to obtain the correct (and expensive) pure silicone grease to restore the front brake to proper operation.

Either the price of pure silicone grease has come WAY down. Or, you've got the wrong grease waiting to render your brake pads useless.

FYI

dagersh · « **Reply #140 on:** January 31, 2007, 10:17:40 AM »

Great Job TVAG!!!!!!

It was my pleasure, and I am really happy to hear that it worked for you.

Gersh

Tvag · « **Reply #141 on:** January 31, 2007, 10:25:16 AM »

Quote

Either the price of pure silicone grease has come WAY down. Or, you've got the wrong grease waiting to render your brake pads useless.

You know TT, I was afraid you'd say that. They guy I talked to gave me this stuff and said this is what people use on thier brakes... so I took his word for it. He seemed knowledgable enough but... you never know. I'll take a closer look at the tube when I get home tonight.

It was a 4 oz tube for $5. I'll snap a pic of the info on the package and post it. Maybe you can determine it's effectiveness from that. I'll try and make sure its CLEAR this time.

medic09 · « **Reply #142 on:** January 31, 2007, 10:46:23 AM »

Hey Tvag! Good thing TT brought up the grease issue. I have found around here that 90% of the time the auto parts store guys don't have a clue. I have to be clear about what I want before I go in, and I have to decide what will work and what won't. When in doubt, I ask someone locally who really does know something, or I post the questions here.

I don't know what you're doing in grad school, but I'll gladly trade my research design/critique class for whatever you've got!

You can look at your bike like a medical patient. You can assess and treat working from head to toe; or you can assess and treat systems (carbs, motor, brakes, trans, etc.). There will sometimes be overlap. Or, like your family practice doc, you can take on the small manageable problems, get them straightened out and maintained; then work on the bigger things by way of elective surgeries when you have the time. Cleaning and de-rusting is probalby a constant that you can do in bits around other things. Sometimes you'll get stuck while waiting for parts, then you can work on another smaller piece in the meantime. It'll take a while, but you have to do that anyway with school and all.

Keep us posted.

Tvag · « **Reply #143 on:** January 31, 2007, 11:22:40 AM »

Quote

I don't know what you're doing in grad school, but I'll gladly trade my research design/critique class for whatever you've got!

I'll trade you both Library Services Assessment and Technology in the Academic Library for your Resarch Design/
Critique class and your CB750K. And if you accept right now, I'll throw in my '77 CB550K, ABSOLUTELY FREE!

medic09 · « **Reply #144 on:** January 31, 2007, 11:37:49 AM »

Quote from: Tvag on January 31, 2007, 11:22:40 AM

Quote
I don't know what you're doing in grad school, but I'll gladly trade my research design/critique class for whatever you've got!

I'll trade you both Library Services Assessment and Technology in the Academic Library for your Resarch Design/
Critique class and your CB750K. And if you accept right now, I'll throw in my '77 CB550K, ABSOLUTELY FREE!

Reference/Research Librarian? Graduate degree in Library Science? We need you man. I'll have to make you take those courses so you'll be ready to bail out the rest of us poor slobs...

I have a new appreciation for Dr W's graduate research class...

Tvag · « **Reply #145 on:** January 31, 2007, 11:56:07 AM »

Quote

Reference/Research Librarian? Graduate degree in Library Science?

Studying to be. Ironically, I'm soon interviewing for a Medical Research Librarian position. So... how attached to that CB750 are you friend?

Some research librarian though, as I go out and buy the wrong silicon grease! D'oh!! I hope it's good stuff.

kuyarico · « **Reply #146 on:** January 31, 2007, 12:00:48 PM »

Quote from: Tvag on January 31, 2007, 10:07:56 AM

What do you guys think? I'm kind of feel like I don't know what I should do next. The fenders are in bad shape too. Lots of rust. I could pull the front fender with the tire and work on them. Do I even need fenders??

Hey TVAG,
I'd keep the front fender at least. The fender has a bracket which helps stabilize the front forks. Also, it will save you in case you get caught in the rain. And from what I've read here, it will also save you from little rocks and other things that can get kicked up. If you do remove the rear fender, consider the fact that you will have to get a new brake light and license plate mounts. But it's not that hard to do. Anyways, nice work so far. Good luck in school.

Eric

OldSchool_IsCool · « **Reply #147 on:** January 31, 2007, 12:30:38 PM »

My $0.02

Safety items first, ridability 2nd, appearance 3rd. Re-arrange as difficulty of task, opportunity and availability of time and money suggest.

You're going nowhere without the chain, sprockets and tires. With tires off, though, derusting and polishing rims is much easier. Rust in your tank will only mean a redo on the carbs.

...sigh...

Guess you gota do it ALL!

Throwing a dart at the 'ol project dart board, I would say tank next. It's low cost, it has to sit for quite a while (low time requirement) and is fairly easy to do. Besides, you're going to want to go out to the garage and listen to her run! So clean fuel is a must!

Oh, don't forget the M/C safety course!

Tvag · « **Reply #148 on:** February 01, 2007, 05:19:46 AM »

Quote

Years ago, I tried a product call Syl-Glide. Sure enough, it liquified after heavy use of the front brake, contaminated the pads, and ruined the stopping power of the front brake.

TT,

So, last night, I go home and look to see what product I purchased at NAPA the other day for reassembling my brakes... huh... wouldn't you know: "Syl-Glyde"

. So, TT, do you follow me around or just read minds?

Anyhow, I take a look at the back of the package and it says it's good up to 600F. I've been researching all morning trying to find other testimonials such as TT's that this stuff will melt and cause problems, but I haven't found anything yet. What constitutes "heavy use" in your situation TT? I think I will eventually clean it out and use a more effective compound to reassemble the brakes but, anyone else use this product and have the same issue?

DOW High Vacuum Grease is what you recommend TT?
http://www.ellsworth.com/display/productdetail.html?productid=403

What about 3M Brake Lube??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3M-Brake-Lube-Anti-Seize-Copper-9oz-08945_W0QQitemZ4631625370QQcmdZViewItem

When I bought the syl-glide I had got to two auto-part stores who didn't have either of these products, and one never heard of silicone grease. What do I ask for? Frustrating.

Einyodeler · « **Reply #149 on:** February 01, 2007, 06:11:20 AM »

If you have a performance speed shop in the area try there , they usually have real enthusiasts behind the counter who will know what you`re looking for. I usually try to stay clear of the Autozone and such stores other than for oil or cleaning supplies, because most of the kids working the counters have never even turned a wrench in their lives.

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Author Topic: Starting a rusty '77 CB550K (Read 41070 times)

Stevearino