Topic: Starting a rusty '77 CB550K

[Tvag]

Are the roads and weather ridable yet in CT?

Oh, no no no no no. LOL   Thanks for the chuckle. We got 6 inches in the last 48 hours. Seems the winter has finally arrived. It held off for a good long time but lately it's been... well, like winter.

I'm aiming for May 1st to get her registered... but I think that is positive thinking.

[Tvag]

Update and questions. In a half-hearted attempt to remove the tire last night I was able to peer beneath it and was very pleased to see no rust whatsoever... now, there was some sort of strap or belt around the base of the rim covering the ends of the spokes coming from the hub. I didn't get under it but I didn't see any corrosion anywhere around it, and I inspected pretty meticulously moving the tire out of the way so I could get a good view all the way around. I decided to leave the inside of the rim alone for now, and worry about it when I'm closer to getting new tires.

Ok, it's time for me to show my sad sad noobness. I turned my attention to the hub. I noticed as I was removing bolts, chain adjuster, etc on the brake side a light grease film. Is this aptly named 'axle grease'? I searched this forum up and down but can't find any info on axle grease. Nor can I find it in the shop manual I have. This is probably because it is so basic, only an idiot wouldn't know about axle grease. Well I'm an idiot, so... What is this and what can I use when I'm done cleaning these parts?
 
Can I use this? It's from my grandfathers basement. Is this axle grease?

[Tvag]

That will work fine, its multi-purpose grease for bearings/chassis etc.  Are you familiar with packing bearings?  Should be covered in your manual.

So, just to clarify, I can use this grease on all the moving parts when reassebling my rear hub. Axle, slide collar, etc... I imagine just a thin coating is all I need. Anything I should be careful for while working on the rear hub and rim?

Searched the forum on this one without luck. Whats the best way for removing those washers that have been crushed up against the bolts holding the rear sprocket in place? Honda manual calls them "tongued washers." Should be called "pain in my f'ing ars washers."

[TwoTired]

Update and questions. In a half-hearted attempt to remove the tire last night I was able to peer beneath it and was very pleased to see no rust whatsoever... now, there was some sort of strap or belt around the base of the rim covering the ends of the spokes coming from the hub. I didn't get under it but I didn't see any corrosion anywhere around it, and I inspected pretty meticulously moving the tire out of the way so I could get a good view all the way around. I decided to leave the inside of the rim alone for now, and worry about it when I'm closer to getting new tires.

Water ingress to the rim internal is via the spoke hole to rim seam.  One of my few flats was caused by a pointed rust spire that grew and poked a hole through both the rim strap rubber and the inner tube.  Rust is more likely to begin under that rim strap.    I had to descale the rust, and then use Zinc Chromate formulation to coat an protect the exposed steel behind that rim strap.

Where have you not found rust on that bike?

Cheers,

Searched the forum on this one without luck. Whats the best way for removing those washers that have been crushed up against the bolts holding the rear sprocket in place? Honda manual calls them "tongued washers." Should be called "pain in my f'ing ars washers."

NUT KEEPERS!!
I use an expendable flat tipped screwdriver and a hammer to tap the wings far enough away from the nut flat to allow socket or wrench operation.

[Tvag]

Rust is more likely to begin under that rim strap.

Good to know TT. And that was another, "I was afraid you'd say that" moments.    We'll take a look-see When I'm ready for new treads.

[Tvag]

I got board cleaning up rust and so decided to attack the cover for the front sprocket and chain. I managed to get the screws out with an impact driver without any of the screws breaking... they were pretty well corroded. There are only 4 screws right? I'm have trouble actually getting the cover off. Is there a good technique for levering it off the engine? Are there any fasteners I or screws I may be overlooking?

[Klark Kent]

the four screws and the shifter are all that holds it.  it has to come straight out along the shift shaft but then angled up and to the left (as opposed to JFK which was back and to the left) to clear the frame.  there should be little resistance, so just wiggle it until it is free.
good luck
-KK

[Tvag]

the four screws and the shifter are all that holds it.  it has to come straight out along the shift shaft but then angled up and to the left (as opposed to JFK which was back and to the left) to clear the frame.  there should be little resistance, so just wiggle it until it is free.
good luck
-KK

That's what I figured... I just don't want to bend or break stuff I can't easily replace. Better safe than sorry.  Thanks KK.

[Tvag]

Tvag, the chrome cover for the starter motor needs to come off too to get the sprocket cover off.  Its on top of the gearbox on the left side, two 10mm bolts hold it on.  Any trouble getting the gear selector lever off?  Just stick a screwdriver in the the gap where the bolt crimps it tight and twist it as you pull the lever straight off the splined selector shaft.  Dont be afraid to give the cover a good pop with a rubber mallet on the top side to coax it loose.  Good man, using the impact driver, would have stripped a screw head for sure otherwise, ask me how I know.  Great tool huh?

Thanks Wykdtron, I rememberd to remove the chrome cover and the gear selector. I havn't tried to give it a good whack with a rubber mallet though. Will try that tonight.

[dagersh]

TVAG,

Whatever you do - do not pry it with a screwdriver.  Confusious says that's very, very bad!

Gersh

[sandcast2356]

Screwdriver and rubber mallet.......best of tools or worst of enemies!?!?!?

[Klark Kent]

oh yeah, and the starter cover.
-KK

[Tvag]

It's off! I beat that cover like a redheaded step child from all angles and velocities until she started to make a different sound. An empty, sad, pitiful sound. Then it slid right off. Wait until I post the pics! You going to love 'em. Let me just say I'm glad I didn't find the furry creature who had made a home in my motorcycle. This bike is horrible!!  And I love it.

Removed the swingarm as well. Dismantling is much more fun than scraping rust. Once I get going it's hard to stop. Then I have to remind myself to take pictures, take notes and label everything. As soon as I start to think I can remember where stuff goes I know I'm in trouble. I've got baby food jars with bolts, screws and parts of all shapes sizes and colors. I think I'll be replacing a hell of a lot of the screws and bolts with SS. Every time I go to to break a new bolt free I hold my breath. I've only got one catastrophe on my hands, and that's the oil filter bolt. It was shot when I got it and I need a set of BIG pliers to get it on and off. That might be a good investment when I've got some $.

I'll post pics of the sprockets and chain too. The chain is in ok shape a lot of the rollers are nice and loose then theres a couple that are pretty stiff. I'm soaking them in oil at the moment to see if I can save it just for the testing phases. Then when I'm confident in the bike, I'll get a new chain and sprockets. The sprockets I have are in really good shape actually besides being discolored. The bike only has 6k on it. Pics of all the advancements to come shortly. Have a good weekend everyone.

OH one more thing. Thanks to Doug and his generosity I've got a decent pair of shocks to replace those AWFUL things that are on the bike at the moment. That was a huge help! You've got to see the comparison.

[doug_id]

Hey Tvag,

Your welcome on the shocks....glad I could help out a little.   Man you got some work on your hands....makes the original condition of my bike look pretty darn good.

Think how buff your arms will be from scrubbing and polishing though......

Doug

[Tvag]

oK what's the different between Diamond 50 Riv chain and Diamond 530? Is there really a difference between thier 530 "motorcycle" chain and the 50 Riv stuff they use industrially? Honestly, I need to know.

[ChevelleSSLS6]

off topic but that vintage can of grease makes a good garage ornament... my dad has one (same can lol but it's a bit beaten up though) that's used to hold random bolts, so it not only is nice to look at, it has a use as well.

[anparkinson]

My CB550K3 had sat for about 14 years before I started it. I had enormous problems getting a decent tickover and slow running. Turned out the idle jets had furred up a bit. I pulled them out with pliers and got a modeller's 0.4mm drill to ream them out with - they should be 0.42mm. The bike ticks over beautifully and is as smooth as can be now all the way up to the red line.

[Tvag]

I've got some pics of what was beneath that left cover.





Glad I didn't meet the owner of this little home. The little bastard must have been sleeping and pissing in there for years. I wish I could have been the one to wake him up. 

[OldSchool_IsCool]

Oh GAWD Tvag! Warn us before you post pics like that! I had just eaten!

Seriously though, you are going to be so proud of your accomplishment WHEN you have that baby back in good order!

[Tvag]

I did try to salvage that chain (remember I have a zero budget), but it is just too far gone to be safe. I have friends in manufacturing who told me the sprokets are in excellent shape, but the chain is dangerous. So, though I know under normal circumstances it's ideal to change sprockets and chains all at once, for this occasion I'm just going to replace the chain. An industrial supplier near me distrubutes Diamond motorcycle chain. They have 530MS 100pin ($45) and 530XDL 100pin ($65). 530MS is a generic chain. The 530XDL has thicker plates and some special lubrication properties. My question is will the thicker plates cause problems like the Oring chains I've read that don't fit well on these bikes. I can see where the problem lies as on my bike as the surface is mared by the previous chain. Nothing has been ground away but you can tell there had been some contact in the past. Anyhow, the width of both chains is identical at 3/8's so I don't think it will be a problem. And I'm willing to let the sprockets wear in a new chain because they are in such good condition it would be foolish to toss them.

The 1977 550K does use a 530x100pin correct?

If these 100pin chains are neverending is that better than using chain that requires a spring clip connecting link?

[Tvag]

You say 6k on the stock sprockets?  Without seeing them, I guess you will be ok using them.  Any close up pics of the rear sprocket? 

I'll take pics of my sprockets and post them soon.

Where do you find chain that cheap?? With shipping that has to be around the same cost as what I'm looking at, no?

Thanks

[Swede]

I got the chain for my 550 from loudfastugly the price was right and shipping was reasonable.

http://www.loudfastugly.com/

[Tvag]

I got the chain for my 550 from loudfastugly the price was right and shipping was reasonable.

http://www.loudfastugly.com/

Closed until March 21st. I'm not really in a rush though... I may not have her up and running until June 

[Tvag]

Last night I degreased and regreased most of the rear assembly. Still working on the spokes and rim to get the rust off. In some places I can't get the angles. I'd have to disassemble the whole thing and that's the last thing I want to do. Relacing sounds like something I would really drive myself crazy on. Though with the spokes off I could clean them more thouroughly. What size spoke wrench do I need? Many, many spokes need tightening anyhow.

[Tvag]

I think I need a 6mm spoke wrench. I saw one at a motorcross facility down the street from my work for $13 by MotionPro (6.0mm and 6.3mm). Looks like this:



Turned my cleaning attention toward the left cover that contains the front sprocket. What metal is this? aluminum The rust is white and powdery. Any techniques for cleanup? scotch brite Same as chrome? no

I love answering my own questsions when I should be working, instead of scouring the Internet.