Author Topic: Starting a rusty '77 CB550K (Read 41594 times)

MrZxp · « **Reply #375 on:** April 07, 2008, 10:11:57 PM »

After rebuilding my M/C I had no end of problems with the lever almost touching the grip after bleeding. Just did not seem to want to bleed properly. Anyhow, due to other things going on at the time, it was like a fortnight before I had a chance to look at things again, and to my surprise no more issues! Great pressure at the lever and around 10-15mm of travel... I guess all them pesky bubbles finally made their exit on their own?

So, if you can leave it a bit maybe...? (Or ride careful??!)

Cheers, Phil

Tvag · « **Reply #376 on:** April 10, 2008, 06:32:44 PM »

Ahhhhhhhhhhh. Finally, finally, finally. Payoff...

Wow. What a feeling. Beautiful day today. After a horrendous day of work I B-lined to the DMV to register my bike. The woman who helped me had given me some sort of free come back pass so I shot straight to the front of the line and got the bike registered. First time in 24 years. I even get antique plates for her.

So I race home throw on the plates. Fiddle with the front brake some more to see if I can't get the pad to retract all the way... no good, still rubbing. "OH WELL, I'm driving it today" i say to myself. Jump on the bike and off I go. Took a spin around the block and came back in to adjust the rear brake. Also, adjusted the drive chain it was a bit loose. Jumped back on and drove it over to my PO who lives down the street. Good guy, an engineer. He had it in his shed for 22 years after having kids. He was ecstatic to see it running and we bull#$%*ted for a bit. Took it home and had some food. Grabbed my helmet and decided to take it across town. Well, had some problems. I was a bit overzealous I will admit. I mean, I'm no professional and for all I know this bike is about to fall apart under me. Headed over to my parents. Almost there and as I pull in the clutch perparing for a stop. The bike dies. I'm not on the side of the road for literally a second when the car behind me pulls up, window down, and asks me "What happen? It die on you? Is that a 550? What year? I've got one of my own. Push it into the parking lot."

Now guys, I'm half jittery for riding for the first time and the bike dying on me on the first day. We tried to start it. I had forgotten my tool kit at the house in my haste but luckily he had some tools with him. We checked the float bowls and pulled the #1 plug to see if we were getting spark. Both accounted for. #1 plug looks like it's running hot so I need to take a look at that... but after BSing for 20 minutes I just told him I'd walk it the rest of the way. He said he didn't like leaving a fellow Honda rider in a lurch. I told him I've only got 3/4 a mile to walk the bike. And off I went. Nice to see a fellow Honda owner so willing to help me out though.

After about 10 minutes of walking the bike I started trying to start it again, and it started. So I jumped on it and drove it to my folks house. After 5 minutes or so I decided that I would try to take it home while there was still some light out. So I started the trek home. About a 1/4 mile down the road it died again. I was pissed and started to walk the bike to my folks when I looked down and noticed that the petcock was in the 'off' position. So I turned it to fuel, tried the starter and after the second try it started up again. I'm an idiot.

Anyhow, got it home and got in a couple hours of adventure and driving. I feel great, I'm not sure the bike is in trustworthy condition but I'm glad it could handle a couple hours of work.

So I'll pull the plugs and take a look. I have a feeling its running hot and I'll have to figure out how to richen the mixture. Is that what the idle mixture screws are for?

I definately need new tires. I looked at the sidewalls when I got back and they've got some cracks in them. Not good, probably shouldn't have taken the bike out that long in thier condition.

The brakes are ok, though the pad is in constant contact with the rotor and will not retract. How bad is this for me?

My blinkers don't blink!?!? Is that how it is suppose to be?

I'll get a pic of me on the bike posted soon. I'm beeming right now guys. BEEMING.

Tvag

hoodellyhoo · « **Reply #377 on:** April 10, 2008, 07:49:06 PM »

Congrats!!!!!

This post sounds just like me when I got my plates too, except my bike didnt die. I certainly know the feeling you're having right now. Fun, isn't it?

seaweb11 · « **Reply #378 on:** April 10, 2008, 07:53:05 PM »

That is a CLASSIC. put it in the FAQ

OldSchool_IsCool · « **Reply #379 on:** April 11, 2008, 03:59:16 AM »

Congrats T!

I know that feeling well too! Wasn't that long ago that I got myself licensed to ride. My bike was ready to go well before I was.

As for the brakes, how hot does the disk get? If you can still touch it after a few minutes riding, you're prolly OK, though getting it to retract is still preferred. A sticky brake can be merely annoying with squeaks, to really messing with your millage, to down right dangerous if it boils your brake fluid!

Tires, yes, definitely attend to those. You only have two contact points with the earth, and they BOTH have to be there 100% of the time!

Running hot? How do you know? The text of your post suggests it was plug color. Restarting after cooling is also a good indication of overheating. Assuming you are right, it sounds like a lean carb condition. Others here have much more experience than I on the proper remedy. You can temporarily enrichen the mixture by pulling the choke closed slightly.

Again, congrats and ride her in good health!

Tvag · « **Reply #380 on:** April 11, 2008, 04:03:34 PM »

I took a look on

http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html

and I think my plugs fall in somewhere between 18 - 20. But I'm no expert. I think the bike did overheat and if it did, how can I prevent that in the future. Maybe I was riding her wrong I'm tring to keep the RPM's up so as to keep the battery charged but maybe I had them too high? Oh inexperience is brutal when trying to tune a bike.

Tvag · « **Reply #381 on:** April 13, 2008, 04:21:39 PM »

Anyone ever have a throttle cable snap on them? Yeah... guess what? So, I'm tooling around trying to get a feel for the bike. I've ridden her every day since registration and I've been tuning as I go. Well, I was on a quick jaunt because the sun suddenly busted out and I'm enjoying the riding. I get 1.5 miles away from my folks place when all of a sudden throttle cable snaps. NO Warning. So what do I do. I start to push it home. Half way there I remember that when I pull the choke closed this bike rev's like a beast (indication of running lean???). I decide, #$%* it, I'll throw it into 1st and coast home. Using the choke as a throttle I get the bike up to 3rd and now feel like a B-17 bomber pilot trying to get his bruised and battered plane back from Germany (Memphis Belle anyone?). So I'm coasting along and turn onto a street not far from my folks place when who comes walking out of his garage signaling me down??? You guessed it, the guy who not 3 days prior on my first ride had pulled up next to me after my biked died on me! Yeah, I'm like beside myself. So I pull over, this must be divine intervention, twice in 3 days. Freaks me out a bit. SO... I tell him the problem and we go take a look to see if he's got a spare throttle cable, no such luck but I take a look at his garage and he's got a '72 CB500, a Yamaha, and a Harley. So be BS for a half hour or so, I show him my project he shows me some #$%* and tells me to come back when I get the throttle cable replaced so he can help me tune the bike up. JUST what I'm in need of at this point, some hands on experience to tend to my bike. God wants this CB back on the road gentleman. No doubt in my mind now.

It so happens I've got a used spare throttle cable in my basement from a parts purchase a few months back. I'll leave the bike here at my folks and install the new cable this week. I'm kind of fearful to do it thought without knowing why it frayed. It snapped right where the wire exits the plastic piece that holds the ball? inside the handlebar cavity (sorry that's the best I can explain it right now, I've attached a pic below).

This happen to anyone else? Is this common? Does this area need to be lubricated? How can I prevent this from happening again? ONE LAST THING: I DID remove the push cable and was only operating with the pull throddle cable in place.

seaweb11 · « **Reply #382 on:** April 13, 2008, 05:27:02 PM »

Mine snapped at 60 passing 2 motor homes

made a new knot slipped in back in, and a zip tie to make up for the shorter length

Tvag · « **Reply #383 on:** April 14, 2008, 03:21:58 PM »

Installed 2 new used throddle cables. I reinstalled the push cable and let me tell you, my throddle feels 200% better. Wow, what ease I can give it some gas... it's too much fun. Anyhow, I went over my folks right after work and reinstalled the cables. I didn't apply any grease to them yet but will now that it's here at home.

Blinkers still not working but I'm saving that problem after I solve the one below.

I have a problem that I need some serious help with. My headers are bluing pretty bad, 2 and 3 especially. I'm sure they were blue from my PO's days but they are worse than there were a week ago. Point is, I believe something is wrong but I'm not sure how to get to the bottom of it. If the bike is running lean would this cause excessive heat? What should I do? What would you do? I don't want to kill my bike.

750K2 · « **Reply #384 on:** April 14, 2008, 03:45:48 PM »

hi tvag - i've been reading your post with a great deal of interest! you've done excellent work. from reading several posts on here concerning bluing of exhaust tubes, i believe that you're on target with your theory of running lean/hot. usually this can be adjusted by the air mixture screws on the outboard face of your carbs. the issue is that you really ought to tune the carbs with a vacume guage to ensure that they are all working together, i.e. sychronized. if you just dilly with the screw settings you will still not end up with a good result. but if i were you, i'd screw them in a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to see what happens. my carbs also run lean and i need to get this done myself. there is an alternative to a misadjusted carb and it may be that your octane rating on your fuel is too high. after reading many many posts on here, i found that i was in error by running 93 in my bike instead of 87. so i have two items to adjust to control the overheated exhaust temperatures. i am also going to try a product that cleans up the blue stains:
www.bluejob.shop-utopia.com
good luck!
frank

TwoTired · « **Reply #385 on:** April 14, 2008, 04:02:27 PM »

Have you done ignition timing? Checked it since you've run it a bit?
Wrong spark timing can make the cylinders run hot.

Have you had the carbs synchronized yet?

Your carbs have Idle Mixture screws that work backwards from standard Air bleed screws. Have you adjusted these? To what?
Adjust these too lean and your cylinders run hot.

How is the bike idling? Do all the headers get the same heat when idling? Are your blued pipes colder during idle? If so, could be your slow circuits are still not clear or the IMS adjustment is too lean, making those cylinders too hot when the throttle is opened farther. The slow circuit does make a small contribution with the throttle opened. Without it, the cylinders run hotter.

Have your read the spark plugs since you've driven it around some?

Cheers,

750K2 · « **Reply #386 on:** April 14, 2008, 04:34:21 PM »

yeah..what he said! lol. i just KNEW someone would say it so much better than i!

Tvag · « **Reply #387 on:** April 24, 2008, 05:15:11 PM »

Working on all of that... but in the meantime... NEW ICON.

edbikerii · « **Reply #388 on:** April 24, 2008, 06:41:21 PM »

If those throttle cables are OEM Honda cables don't lube them! Apparently, Honda cables have teflon liners that get ruined when lubed. I didn't lube mine at all, and they feel great. I think TwoTired mentioned a product called Dri-slide for lubing Honda cables if they ever get sticky. I think it is teflon based, not petroleum based.

Tvag · « **Reply #389 on:** May 06, 2008, 05:11:52 AM »

Been tooling around on my bike. Not far mind you since I haven't been able to afford new tires yet. But the bike has been running well, great actually as far as I can tell. Maybe the pipes were blue from the PO. I don't know but it seems to run very smooth.

Current bugs:
1. Choke nob cable won't stay pulled out all the way. It sinks back to about half-way almost immediately.
2. Blinkers not blinking
3. Brakes sticking

I'll address these as soon as the semester is done.

Klark Kent · « **Reply #390 on:** May 06, 2008, 05:45:45 AM »

electronic flasher relay? proper bulbs in the winkers?

Tvag · « **Reply #391 on:** May 06, 2008, 06:56:31 AM »

Quote

electronic flasher relay? proper bulbs in the winkers?

I still have a standard analog flasher relay. Never replaced the bulbs or "winkers"

(Whats a winker?). I'm not sure what the relay looks like though or how to remove it to replace it. Everything is working well so I believe replacing it with an electronic relay would do the trick. Anyone got a pic of where and what the analog relay looks like? And give me some idea how to remove and replace it. I did a good deal of looking on the site earlier and got some answers but I'm still not clear.

Klark Kent · « **Reply #392 on:** May 06, 2008, 06:59:27 AM »

it is a metal cylinder with blade contacts held by a rubber mount under the left side cover with the electrics if memory serves (but that #$%* dont always serve).

Tvag · « **Reply #393 on:** May 06, 2008, 07:07:40 AM »

Quote from: Klark Kent on May 06, 2008, 06:59:27 AM

it is a metal cylinder with blade contacts held by a rubber mount under the left side cover with the electrics if memory serves (but that #$%* dont always serve).

Yeah, there are 2 things I think might be the blinker relay. Anyone got a pic they can post indicating the blinker relay? If not, I'll take a pic of my setup under the left side cover tonight and post for someone to edit and point it out for me. Thanks!

TwoTired · « **Reply #394 on:** May 06, 2008, 12:09:22 PM »

Quote from: Tvag on May 06, 2008, 05:11:52 AM

Current bugs:
1. Choke nob cable won't stay pulled out all the way. It sinks back to about half-way almost immediately.

At the base of the choke stem is a knurled knob that adjusts the choke friction.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #395 on:** May 06, 2008, 02:31:45 PM »

From www.cmsnl.com:

#10 is the winker relay.

Here's what they sell as a replacement:

hth

mystic_1

Tvag · « **Reply #396 on:** May 06, 2008, 06:25:28 PM »

Quote from: TwoTired on May 06, 2008, 12:09:22 PM

Quote from: Tvag on May 06, 2008, 05:11:52 AM
Current bugs:
1. Choke nob cable won't stay pulled out all the way. It sinks back to about half-way almost immediately.

At the base of the choke stem is a knurled knob that adjusts the choke friction.

Brilliant! I'm such an amature. Thanks again TT.

Also, I figured out which one was the blinker relay. I drove over to the local autozone and picked up an electronic blinker relay with two blades. Triton EL-17 $8.99. It was a see through cylandrical type. To my great surprize not only do the blinkers now work but they beep like a cement truck in reverse. Startled the hell out of me. I thought something was broken.

Now to figure out the reason the horn is not working. Any common problems for horn malfunctions?

You guys are on a role! Thanks!

fastbroshi · « **Reply #397 on:** May 07, 2008, 04:19:15 AM »

While we're on the relay topic, my '77 F has a round relay. My bike has the female leads that seem to snake towards the relay, yet the relay only has 2 blades. I just made a guess and it works, turn signal buzzer and everything.

What is the third wire for? Colors are Green, Grey, and Black. I believe the grey is the one not connected.
Tvag, wow, you've done a lot of work to get where you are, keep plugging away.

Tvag · « **Reply #398 on:** May 07, 2008, 05:55:17 AM »

Quote from: fastbroshi on May 07, 2008, 04:19:15 AM

While we're on the relay topic, my '77 F has a round relay. My bike has the female leads that seem to snake towards the relay, yet the relay only has 2 blades. I just made a guess and it works, turn signal buzzer and everything. What is the third wire for? Colors are Green, Grey, and Black. I believe the grey is the one not connected.
Tvag, wow, you've done a lot of work to get where you are, keep plugging away.

This talks a little about it.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=33715.msg348243#msg348243

I've got a spare horn that was in working condition. i'm going to clean up the wires and hook it up. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll dive into the electrics for the horn. I think I read somewhere on this site that the horn has a relay too. Do those go faulty often?

Klark Kent · « **Reply #399 on:** May 07, 2008, 06:52:44 AM »

my horn quit one day.

went out got a freeway blaster and a relay to take the new load off my horn button. the new one didnt work either. switched it back to stock and just messed with the horn button. pressed it hard spun it around pressed some more. horn started working. clean your horn button and you will probably be alright, my guess is that the horn itself does not go bad very easily.

News:

Author Topic: Starting a rusty '77 CB550K (Read 41594 times)