Author Topic: soldering  (Read 2929 times)

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Offline MikeSimon

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Re: soldering
« Reply #25 on: September 27, 2017, 12:39:05 PM »
To wrap it all up: Two things - a properly preheated joint to be soldered and - proper solder to be used. having had problems of getting the right solder, I have "imported" my solder for electrical connections on vehicles from Germany in the last 25 years. It contains flux and works like a charm.
1973 CB350F -sold
1974 CB350F -218 orig miles, sold
1976 CB750K - in restoration

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Offline RAFster122s

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Re: soldering
« Reply #26 on: September 27, 2017, 04:52:49 PM »
Mike, being in Ohio ( I have been to your area many times while living in central Ohio (86-4/05) as I had a good friend I visited in Ravenna.)  I am shocked you would not be able to find good solder in an electrical/electronic supply house.
David- back in the desert SW!

Offline MikeSimon

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Re: soldering
« Reply #27 on: September 28, 2017, 06:53:26 AM »
It is probably difficult for me to find a electrical/electronic supply house. Radio Shacks are no longer. Hardware stores are useless for automotive related supplies.
1973 CB350F -sold
1974 CB350F -218 orig miles, sold
1976 CB750K - in restoration

Other Hondas:
3 x CBX
CB1100R
GB500
Plus Kawasakis, BMws & Ducatis

Offline 333

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Re: soldering
« Reply #28 on: September 28, 2017, 06:59:13 AM »
Electronic supply houses are getting fewer and farther apart these days.

Yes, Lloyd, the chemical process of soldering is the same between plumbing and electronic.  But the processes are different. Mainly because of size.  I've seen(but never used) a soldering iron large enough, and specifically made for plumbing, but we don't do it that way any more. The sad part is that we don't even use copper plumbing any more. (side note- I hate PVC plumbing)  Working in a truck shop, I've replaced the battery ends on 4 & 6 ga wire. You use plumbing methods, but focus the flame on the lug, to minimize the damage to the insulation, and allow the solder to heat the wire.  Working in a radio shop is where I learned that using the solder to heat the trace and component is the quickest method, and minimizes the affect of the heat on the surrounding area. Especially with today's surface mount components.  A cold joint happens when you take the heat away too soon, or the joint moves between the time you take the heat away, and when the solder solidifies.  If you look carefully, you see when the joint is hot enough and the solder flows in to the joint, and you can also see when the joint moves, and the solder is no longer glossy(a cold joint has just occurred).

The bottom line is that we all have our own methods.  One of my favorite lines is "opinions are like a$$e$. They all stink except your own".  Or, I can liken this to religion or politics. Two thing happen in these discussions; you're either preaching to the choir, or beating your head against a brick wall.  Sorta like an oil thread.
Go metric, every inch of the way!

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