Author Topic: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)  (Read 15078 times)

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AirCanuck

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #25 on: September 08, 2017, 08:07:05 AM »
This famous quote comes to mind

Quote
It's a little motor and it loves having the tits revved off it.

I had a 3 mile commute to my last job, and the start and finish of my shift were the best part.

Kick starting a 550 is pretty basic.  Fuel on, choke on, in neutral, hand on the throttle, hand off the clutch.  Stand over the bike.  Push down gently the kick lever with your foot until you feel the pressure resisting you.  Allow the kickstarter to come back up.  THEN GIVE IT A STRONG KICK!

A well maintenanced 550 should start up on the first kick. Use the throttle as needed to keep the motor purring.
As the bike warms up, you'll be able to turn the choke off.  I like to give the throttle a couple of blips before shifting into gear and rolling away.

For more information on rider technique, I'm obligated to say "take an msf course" - which can actually be really good instruction and a fun way to build skill, confidence, and speed if you're in an intermediate or advanced class - often taught at your local race track!

But for at home viewing pleasure, I recommend this brilliant piece of educational cinema!


The techniques outlined in the video have served me very well.
Except that one time I got a few things mixed up and nearly shat myself trying to calm an unhappy bloo.

I'll have to watch that when I'm home from work.  Couple points/questions - I have taken the msf course  here in Canada - wouldn't dream of riding without it.  I'm a chicken.

Second... I have pod filters and no choke.  How does that change things for a kickstart?  Everyone's technique so far has involved choke.  All there is is the idle screw.

For that matter, how, when, why to adjust the idle with the thumbscrew?

AirCanuck

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #26 on: September 08, 2017, 08:11:20 AM »
I think the DOT and many state laws require headlight on always for motorcycles.
So, its the max power draw I'm interested in.
The 550 alternator only makes 4-6 amps at idle speed.  If you have the total consumption down below this level, the battery should always get charge capability.  Even something close to these numbers would allow more charge than battery depletion.
I'm just curious about the cost/benefit ratio.

Cheers,

TwoTired,

I have all LED on mine with a Ricks RR and an Munit wiring harness.  Once I have it all up and running, how would I test to see the total draw like you're asking for?  I'd be interested in finding out how my bike will handle the stop and go/short commute considering the lower draw but I have no idea how to use a multimeter to measure this.  I have never used a multi meter so I need instructions for children please :P

Offline BomberMann650

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #27 on: September 08, 2017, 08:41:09 AM »
How does your bike not have a choke?
It's literally built into the carburetors! 

Offline TwoTired

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #28 on: September 08, 2017, 09:38:05 AM »
Yes, how is it you don't have a choke?
Are the pod filters blocking the choke lever?


For power measurements, the are several ways. 
Paper calculation; list all components remaining on the bike, asign/ note their rated numbers, and tally for results.

Real time measurement and or in the garage measurement : These involve a test instrument or onboard meter.  Either volt meter or ameter.
What instrumentation do you have available to you?
State its make and model, as test equipment varies as much or more than the motorcycle population of the world.  If you don't have one yet, I'll have to teach you basic specification reading, understanding to get one useful for this endeavor.
Are you familiar with Ohm's law?  E=IxR

Cheers,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #29 on: September 08, 2017, 10:51:38 AM »
1975 CB550K1 "Blue" Stockish Restomod (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=135005.0)
1975 CB550F1 frame/CB650 engine hybrid "The Hot Mess" (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,150220.0.html)
2008 Triumph Thruxton (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,190956.0.html)
2014 MV Agusta Brutale Dragster 800
2015 Yamaha FZ-09 (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,186861.0.html)

"There are some things nobody needs in this world, and a bright-red, hunch-back, warp-speed 900cc cafe racer is one of them — but I want one anyway, and on some days I actually believe I need one.... Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles, Bubba." Hunter S. Thompson, Song of the Sausage Creature, Cycle World, March 1995.  (http://www.latexnet.org/~csmith/sausage.html and https://magazine.cycleworld.com/article/1995/3/1/song-of-the-sausage-creature)

Sold/Emeritus
1973 CB750K2 "Bionic Mongrel" (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=132734.0) - Sold
1977 CB750K7 "Nine Lives" Restomod (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=50490.0) - Sold
2005 RVT1000RR RC51-SP2 "El Diablo" - Sold
2016+ Triumph Thruxton 1200 R (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,170198.0.html) - Sold

Offline SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #30 on: September 08, 2017, 10:52:54 AM »
and to add: 20-30mins as twotired mentioned is fine and i would take that as the minimum amount of time i'd want to regularly ride that bike (unless your standing around idling half the time). the 5km would be too short in my opinion.

That really... REALLY... sucks to hear.  That's the majority of the driving I had planned.  I'm pretty bummed out to hear it's not suitable...  Getting a second bike is definitely not an option

You'd be surprised how stress-relieving a nice ride can be.  Try extending your commute to allow sufficient running time to get the bike up to proper temperature.  DO NOT let it idle for any extended period; it will overheat (needs cooling air from riding).

Define extended?

Not more than 3-4 minutes.  You just want the oil to be fully circulating.
1975 CB550K1 "Blue" Stockish Restomod (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=135005.0)
1975 CB550F1 frame/CB650 engine hybrid "The Hot Mess" (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,150220.0.html)
2008 Triumph Thruxton (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,190956.0.html)
2014 MV Agusta Brutale Dragster 800
2015 Yamaha FZ-09 (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,186861.0.html)

"There are some things nobody needs in this world, and a bright-red, hunch-back, warp-speed 900cc cafe racer is one of them — but I want one anyway, and on some days I actually believe I need one.... Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles, Bubba." Hunter S. Thompson, Song of the Sausage Creature, Cycle World, March 1995.  (http://www.latexnet.org/~csmith/sausage.html and https://magazine.cycleworld.com/article/1995/3/1/song-of-the-sausage-creature)

Sold/Emeritus
1973 CB750K2 "Bionic Mongrel" (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=132734.0) - Sold
1977 CB750K7 "Nine Lives" Restomod (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=50490.0) - Sold
2005 RVT1000RR RC51-SP2 "El Diablo" - Sold
2016+ Triumph Thruxton 1200 R (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,170198.0.html) - Sold

AirCanuck

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #31 on: September 09, 2017, 08:34:48 AM »
How does your bike not have a choke?
It's literally built into the carburetors! 

Yes, how is it you don't have a choke?
Are the pod filters blocking the choke lever?


For power measurements, the are several ways. 
Paper calculation; list all components remaining on the bike, asign/ note their rated numbers, and tally for results.

Real time measurement and or in the garage measurement : These involve a test instrument or onboard meter.  Either volt meter or ameter.
What instrumentation do you have available to you?


State its make and model, as test equipment varies as much or more than the motorcycle population of the world.  If you don't have one yet, I'll have to teach you basic specification reading, understanding to get one useful for this endeavor.
Are you familiar with Ohm's law?  E=IxR

Cheers,


I am familiar with none of this.  I don't currently own a voltmeter but am willing to buy any of the ones available at www.canadiantire.ca


As for the choke, I just asked the guy I bought it from - apparently the previous owner removed a spring mechanism to accommodate the pod filter setup.  He has found he never needed a choke as the pods run rich. 

thoughts?

Offline Deltarider

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #32 on: September 09, 2017, 08:54:04 AM »
Quote
I am familiar with none of this.  I don't currently own a voltmeter but am willing to buy any of the ones available at www.canadiantire.ca
Believe me, the electricals is about the easiest part of your bike's technique. You need to know just a few things like Ohm's law which is deadsimple and it will take you a lot further. I always give this advice: if you have to buy a (new) multimeter and plan to make the bike your hobby, consider buying an automotive type multimeter. When I bought mine, they costed a fortune. Not now anymore. With an automotive multimeter you'll be able to read, besides ohm and voltage, current often up to 15A, tach and dwell angle. With some you can even check capacity (condensers), temperature and what not. I've seen them for $ 35,-. If you just need to read Volts and Ohms, the cheapest multimeter will do. The technique inside is the same. The cheapies have inferior plastic casings that can't take much and PVC cables (so not silicone). On the other hand, the cheapest I have, came with a rubber protective cover and silicone wires.
« Last Edit: September 09, 2017, 12:46:32 PM by Deltarider »
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Offline BomberMann650

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #33 on: September 09, 2017, 08:56:55 AM »
Pods run rich?
That's going down in the book of "greatest lies PO's ever told!"

I'm assuming your bike has the PD carburetors.
If they'd removed the choke from the A series carbs there would be gaping holes in the bodies.

AirCanuck

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #34 on: September 09, 2017, 09:19:01 AM »
Pods run rich?
That's going down in the book of "greatest lies PO's ever told!"

I'm assuming your bike has the PD carburetors.
If they'd removed the choke from the A series carbs there would be gaping holes in the bodies.

I don't even know.  To be honest, I bought the bike knowing nothing about motorcycles or CBs other than that they were reliable, mechanically simple, and looked great.  I've learned a great deal, but my bike has been in the shop for about a month (shops around here are small and they were really backed up) so I haven't seen it since almost the day I bought it.  I may go have a look at it today if I have time but I probably won't.  I'm not sure why he would say it would run rich since I know they let in MORE air... but I do trust him a lot, he's a smart guy, and honest.  I'll have to chat with him and ask what he meant.

AirCanuck

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #35 on: September 09, 2017, 09:21:46 AM »
Quote
I am familiar with none of this.  I don't currently own a voltmeter but am willing to buy any of the ones available at www.canadiantire.ca
Believe me, the electricals is the about the easiest part of your bike's technique. You need to know just a few things like Ohm's law which is deadsimple and it will take you a lot further. I always give this advice: if you have to buy a (new) multimeter and plan to make the bike your hobby, consider buying an automotive type multimeter. When I bought mine, they costed a fortune. Not now anymore. With an automotive multimeter you'll be able to read, besides ohm and voltage, current often up to 10 or 15A, tach and dwell angle. With some you can even check capacity (condensers), temperature and what not. I've seen them for $ 35,-. If you just need to read Volts and Ohms, the cheapest multimeter will do. The technique inside is the same. The cheapies have inferior plastic casings that can't take much and PVC cables (and not silicone). On the other hand, the cheapest I have, came with a rubber protective cover.

someone recommended this one.  Will it do?  IF not... are you able to recommend one from www.canadiantire.ca?  I live in a small town and that's pretty much the only option to buy one

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-digital-5-function-multimeter-0520060p.html#srp

Offline Deltarider

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #36 on: September 09, 2017, 09:34:31 AM »
If the price is in US $, it's bloody expensive (and I see nothing spectacular). One like that can be had here for less than € 10,-. I have 3 of these http://servotool.eu/nl/mmm6005-tmmh-930-multimeter.html, two on the boat and one at home. (In the garage I have a different, not so cheap automotive type DMM.) I remember, I've paid less than € 7,- for each in a sale (21% tax included!). It came with a 9V battery, a removable rubber cover and it even had silicone wires. They were deadcheap and you even see them in professional workshops (next to the Flukes they have). It must be the most popular DMM here by far. After over 10 years, they all still work well. They were sold under different brandnames (like Toledo or Topcraft (Aldi supermarkets), so I wouldn't be surprised if you'll find them overthere as well. Just see if you get any results when you google: TMMH-930.
« Last Edit: September 09, 2017, 12:30:46 PM by Deltarider »
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AirCanuck

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #37 on: September 09, 2017, 10:02:26 AM »
If the price is in US $, it's bloody expensive (and I see nothing spectacular). One like that can be had here for around € 10,-. I have 3 of these http://servotool.eu/nl/mmm6005-tmmh-930-multimeter.html, one in the boat, one in the garage and one in my house. I remember, I've paid less than € 10,- for each (21% tax included!). It included a battery and the removable rubber cover. They were deadcheap and you even see them in professional workshops (besides the Flukes they have). It must be the most popular DMM here. After over 10 years, they all work well. They were sold under different brandnames (like Toledo or Topcraft (Aldi supermarkets), so I wouldn't be surprised if you'll find them overthere as well.

Anything on this list that gets the seal of approval?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/tools-hardware/electrical/testers.html


Offline Gene

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #38 on: September 09, 2017, 10:47:57 AM »
$20 multimeter looks fine. Totally worth it too. You will find you are going to want to trouble-shoot your own bike (get it out of the garage) a lot of modern bike mechanics don't understand the simplicity of these older bikes and tend to mess them up more than fix them.
*1973 CB750K3 (Bow)

Offline TwoTired

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #39 on: September 09, 2017, 11:08:32 AM »
I don't know what you can afford.

I searched your posted site, and found some adequate candidates.  Since they wouldn't post the specifications, I could only examine the features offered.

The best offered had a maximum current measurement feature of 10 amps.  This is close to what a stock bike will draw during run time.  You can manage the bikes draw by unpluging things to make it lower and within range of measurement capability.  This can be useful for the battery charge capability you wish to assess, though you can make an inference from voltage readings .

Also pick a feature that allows measuring small voltages.  Usually, this can be inferred by the lowest range available on the meter.  20 v range is a good one for moto operation.  200v ranges are less precise, even though such a limitation is workable.

Autoranging meters are quite handy.  But, the maker then needs to supply a specification for accuracy whil reading low voltages.  ...Which was not found on the canadian tire site.

The last essential is ohms.  Again for measurement of the low ohms, the smallest range selection is very important.  The specs for the meter chosen will give two numbers that are relevant to reading accuracy. A percent of scale error, and a display error, usually in digits (for a digital meter).  I'm sure you can understand that 1% error of 200 is less accurate than 1% of 20. 

Having features like a capacitance meter can be handy for measuring condensers.  But, only if that fits into your plan.

You may have to go to the manufacturers site to find the actual specifications, rather than the features of the multmeters offered by CT.  Or, peruse the labeling or owners manual while in the store. (Too frustrating to do on my cell phone.)  I'll look more later when I get to my desktop.

Regarding choke.  I must seriously doubt the credibility of anyone ascerting these bikes don't need choke.  If the bike is so rich it doesn't need one for cold starting, it will foul plugs when running warm (run like crap) and would require the carbs be altered far from stock settings.  And, unless your pods are way over oiled, that filter style makes stock carbs deliver lean mixtures, making cold starts without choke very problematic.

It would seem someone sold you up the river.

That's all for now,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

AirCanuck

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #40 on: September 09, 2017, 11:26:18 AM »
I don't know what you can afford.

I searched your posted site, and found some adequate candidates.  Since they wouldn't post the specifications, I could only examine the features offered.

The best offered had a maximum current measurement feature of 10 amps.  This is close to what a stock bike will draw during run time.  You can manage the bikes draw by unpluging things to make it lower and within range of measurement capability.  This can be useful for the battery charge capability you wish to assess, though you can make an inference from voltage readings .

Also pick a feature that allows measuring small voltages.  Usually, this can be inferred by the lowest range available on the meter.  20 v range is a good one for moto operation.  200v ranges are less precise, even though such a limitation is workable.

Autoranging meters are quite handy.  But, the maker then needs to supply a specification for accuracy whil reading low voltages.  ...Which was not found on the canadian tire site.

The last essential is ohms.  Again for measurement of the low ohms, the smallest range selection is very important.  The specs for the meter chosen will give two numbers that are relevant to reading accuracy. A percent of scale error, and a display error, usually in digits (for a digital meter).  I'm sure you can understand that 1% error of 200 is less accurate than 1% of 20. 

Having features like a capacitance meter can be handy for measuring condensers.  But, only if that fits into your plan.

You may have to go to the manufacturers site to find the actual specifications, rather than the features of the multmeters offered by CT.  Or, peruse the labeling or owners manual while in the store. (Too frustrating to do on my cell phone.)  I'll look more later when I get to my desktop.

Regarding choke.  I must seriously doubt the credibility of anyone ascerting these bikes don't need choke.  If the bike is so rich it doesn't need one for cold starting, it will foul plugs when running warm (run like crap) and would require the carbs be altered far from stock settings.  And, unless your pods are way over oiled, that filter style makes stock carbs deliver lean mixtures, making cold starts without choke very problematic.

It would seem someone sold you up the river.

That's all for now,

Thanks for the tips.. as for the choke... that's depressing....

Offline Gene

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #41 on: September 09, 2017, 11:56:57 AM »
When you get the opportunity take a close up pic of your existing carb set up and engine. I think the seller may be less than truthful in what he told you. Don't be sad. We'll get you back on the road. But you'll have to learn along the way.
*1973 CB750K3 (Bow)

Offline Deltarider

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #42 on: September 09, 2017, 12:37:22 PM »
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Offline Gene

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #43 on: September 09, 2017, 01:19:43 PM »
I bought the bike knowing nothing about motorcycles or CBs other than that they were reliable, mechanically simple, and looked great.

Keep this in mind. These are all true. Between you and the seller, there may have been a misunderstanding - it's possible. But, you have ppl who will help you here without any financial interest - keep that in mind as well.
*1973 CB750K3 (Bow)

AirCanuck

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #44 on: September 09, 2017, 02:08:41 PM »
I bought the bike knowing nothing about motorcycles or CBs other than that they were reliable, mechanically simple, and looked great.

Keep this in mind. These are all true. Between you and the seller, there may have been a misunderstanding - it's possible. But, you have ppl who will help you here without any financial interest - keep that in mind as well.

Thank you. I don't think he was being untruthful at all, I think I just didn't understand the implications of what he was saying. He's been very honest and in fact I'm still in touch with him.

I currently have it at a shop with someone quite knowledgable on these old bikes and am willing to spend money to get some riding out of it this year in the interest of saving time. He's going to reinstall a choke and make sure the carbs are properly jetted and tuned for a 4 into 1 exhaust and pods.

Offline Gene

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #45 on: September 09, 2017, 02:18:17 PM »
Fair enough. We look forward to progress reports and more pics, please.
*1973 CB750K3 (Bow)

AirCanuck

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #46 on: September 09, 2017, 06:15:00 PM »
Fair enough. We look forward to progress reports and more pics, please.

As soon as I have her again I'll report on! Also the guy working on it doesn't mind me sitting in while he works to learn. Might be able to do progress pics :)

AirCanuck

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #47 on: September 09, 2017, 06:28:23 PM »
Here the name is DT830 https://www.amazon.com/25-Home-Decor-DT830B-Multimeter/dp/B001T3Y8XW

wow that is a great price.  This is the one I should get?  It has all the ranges/features you were talking about?

How can I learn about the laws etc and basics of metering?  Do you have a good source for a beginner?

Keep in mind I don't mind shelling out 50 or 75 bucks for one that is good quality
« Last Edit: September 09, 2017, 06:30:33 PM by AirCanuck »

Offline TwoTired

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #48 on: September 10, 2017, 01:24:02 AM »
Harbor Freight frequently gives me one of those cheap DMMs for free.  I must have about eight or ten of them stashed here and there.
They can certainly be useful.  Their accuracy for some functions isn't so good, though.  But, if you are electrically knowledgeable, they can suffice.  There are times I must use my older more expensive meters that have more sensitive ranges and better accuracy.
The cheap DMMs can get you started with the basics.  Don't expect to accurately measure the stator winding resistance, though.  0.35 ohms on a 200 ohm scale, is pretty much lost in the noise level of the instrument.  They certainly suffice for general voltage measurements.

Those cheapies are far better than nothing, for sure.

Cheers,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline Deltarider

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Re: How to drive your SOHC4 (CB550)
« Reply #49 on: September 10, 2017, 01:34:43 AM »
Quote
How can I learn about the laws etc and basics of metering?  Do you have a good source for a beginner?
I'll see if I can find any, but maybe other members here can beat me to it. It is well explained with the analogy of an overhead waterreservoir (like an oldfashioned toilet) and it's pipe downwards. I know some pics, but they're in Dutch, so to speak ;). Volt is the pressure, the water in the reservoir that wants to go down as soon there's an opening. Volt is named after Donald J. Volta, a good friend of mine, did a tremendous job, many may not know this, but he did a truly great job. There's a difference in potential simply because the reservoir is up there (+) and where it wants to go to is down below (-). In a DC system like in cars and motorcycles the + wants to go to -. Actually the electrons travel the other way around but, hush, hush, we'll keep that a secret. Back to that oldstyle toilet with its overhead reservoir. When you pull the chain to flush it (think pressing a switch in a car) the water rushes down and it depends of the diameter of the flushpipe how much water per second will go down. The narrower the pipe, the more resistance, the longer it takes to empty the reservoir. The designer has estimated how much force is needed to flush away your delivery or (let's go outside where we have fresh air) make a waterwheel turn. So there is the difference in potential which we express in Volts, there is resistance which we express in Ohms (named after Donald J. Ohm who also happens to be a good friend of mine) and there's the current (the rate of electrons) which we express in ampères (amps). The power output of the waterwheel is Watts (named after Donald J. Watts). Did I already say Watts is a very good friend of mine? Watts, Ohm and Volt, three great guys that did an excellent job. Without them we wouldn't even have had the electric chair, can you imagine? Think of it!
Let's take a bike that has a headlamp that is rated 60 Watts and also has heated grips that are rated 120 Watts That's the way the lamp and the grips were designed. We could come back to that later eventually. If we apply Ohm's law in a 12V system like ours, it would mean that the 60 Watts lamp would draw 5 amps, because 60(Watts):12(Volts) results in 5(A). Ohms law. The 120 Watts grips will draw 120:12= 10 amps. Now take a truck that doesn't have 12V but a 24V system. A 60 Watts headlamp now will draw 60:24= 2,5 amps and the heated steering wheel, will draw 120:24= 5 amps. Why do we want to know amps? Well, when we know how many amps will flow, we can determine what size fuse we will need to guarantee that the flow of energy is interrupted immediately when an excess is demanded by an accidental shortcircuit. Why? Well first reason is ofcourse the battery would be depleted very quick, but also the wires, that are simply too thin to transport the all too sudden demand (flush of electrons), would burn. We will also be able to choose the right diameter wires (our flushpipes remember?). So a 24V equipped truck actually can do with thinner wires for the same consumers then our 12V bikes and in a vintage 6V T-Ford you would need thicker wires. Now we also mentioned Ohms. Ohms is how we measure resistance. Let's take this 60 Watts lamp that draws 5A. The purpose of the bulb is to give light and therefore the designer created a very thin wire inside (filament) that will glow when the circuit is switched. It's the resistance that makes it glow. Also resistance can be measured and it's done in Ohms. If I apply Ohm's law and if I tell you, the resistance of that lamp (its filament) will be 12V:5A= 2,4 Ω, you can now deduct yourself what Ohm's law is about. Simple, isn't it? Here you'll find a handy calculator: http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/ohms-law-calculator.htm
Now scientists have agreed to rename Volt in 'U', amps in 'I' and Ohms in 'R'. Just to inform you if you google Ohm's law which I suggest you do. But we bikers can forget about U, I and R. To keep it simple, you, for the time being, just remember that oldstyle toilet, your headlamp bulb and you'll be fine. As you play with this - and you will - you'll develop your understanding more and more and, who knows, some day you may even make your own electric chair. But hey, don't let your kids sit on it, before you have tested it yourself, OK? A few things you should know using your multimeter. You measure Ohms only when the current is switched off. Measuring amps ofcourse when switched on. But I suggest for the time being you only measure Volts or Ohms. Most of us never measure amps. There's little or no need to.
First exercise for you would be to hold the red probe of your new meter against the + terminal of your battery and the black to the negative terminal. I bet you'll read between 11 and 13 Volts. Just don't try to read Ohms in this situation, because your meter is now part of a circuit that is not off.
« Last Edit: September 10, 2017, 12:04:23 PM by Deltarider »
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