Topic: Build of CB750 K2 1975 - Europe had K2 until 1975 - Engine started feb 17 2019

[PeWe]

Tank will be more copper than brown... clear will show

[PeWe]

3 layer clear done. It has turned more to brown. I have done the last layer with clear can no 2. I’ll do the can. 2 layers more. It is almost an even finish now. 20 minutes flash off time

Strange, clear was almost OK with 1 can while it needed 3 cans metallic for an even result. I used 2 cans of 2k primer which was exact amount. 3 would have been better.

[PeWe]

All done! Some layers of metallic. Maybe thin layers. I did not want any runs.
6 layers of clear. The last ones wetter.

Tank will now harden. Then sand it with grit 1200 and apply the K2 stickers. Let it dry a week, one can of 2k clear. Maybe I'll do side covers too. They should be OK, but if they need to be sanded smooth the clear coat can do them too. When clear can is activated, it will can be used within 48 hours. I should use it before just for sure. I'll warm the last 2k clear can to 25C or more since they felt cold at around 20-21C. Warmer will float better. Heating up the garage to 25C. 21C might be on the low side with thick paint.

Pics direct after spray, paint still wet. All my photos help me to see how many layers of each paint. Time stamps show when.

I need to find out when I can apply the stickers. I guess the paint must "vapor off" before.

[PeWe]

Found it.
Need a week to cure   https://www.afegraphics.com/tipappl.htm

Sand it and apply the graphics wet. 1 drop dish soap in a spray bottle. Find correct position and squeeze all water out of the graphics. I'll need a protection paper/plastic film over the graphics when using a plastic card to press out the water and air bubbles. I do not want to damage the gold stripes.
Where to place the decals attached. Came with decals.
Lots of waiting until tank is ready. Wait for paint to cure, wait for decals to dry then clear coat again and let dry...

[Terry in Australia]

Looking good Per, I look forward to seeing the finished tank with stripes, badges and chrome! Cheers, Terry.

[Don R]

 I did a K1 with 2013 Honda Accord tiger eye pearl brown  and used the k2 tape stripes with the gold, pearl white and black stripes. It was stunning as I'm sure this will be. My paint guy didn't allow time for curing and the edges lifted a tiny bit under the clear. I sold that bike and he did better on my candy blue green set.

[Terry in Australia]

Any pics Don? I've seen the K2 tank in the original brown only reasonably recently when I was shown a NOS tank in a box, it's a fairly unique shade of brown.

[PeWe]

Tank will look much better outside. The phots do not show how ot really look. Flash make it lighter, no flash and the fluorescent lamps color it wrong.
I noticed yesterday that the clear has become much harder. 4 days of curing is different than the days before when the clear felt softer when pressing the nail into it. The rear fastener plate. I cut the stripes from the entire sheet yesterday with a sharp scissor. I left a 2-3 mm edge of clear vinyl around the entire sticker. Difficult to cut exact and risk wobble cuts into the silver edge. 

I tested various measurements of where it need to be located on tank.
It is easier than follow certain mesurements. The sticker must follow the design of the tank. Parallel with the edge where tank has a bend. Front distance same gap as between that bend and graphics. I'll print out photos from Yamiya to compare with.
I'll put the stickers in a bucket with warm water with a few drops of dish soap.

One bad thing though. I can not apply the clear better than I have done. No orange peel at all, just a few paint dust acnes that a little wet sanding will remove. Photos above are direct after paint. All small orange peel disappeared the day after.

Side covers have minor orange peel. Can be sanded and polished only. 
I'll give them a last layer of clear too, but after I have done the tank to avoid overspray on them.

I'll warm up the can next time. The covers might have been cooler and therefore worse float of the paint. Tank had propbably warm air inside.
I had to open the garage door a little to make it possible to get fresh air. That cooled down the can a litlle and probably the covers. It was 23C when I started, 19C after last layer.
This time a quicky with clear only.

[PeWe]

Sanded the tank today. It had orange peel on the sides visible when sanding it. Started with wet grit 800. I had to go down to 400 to get something done. 800 when peel was gone.

I'll sand the side covers to smooth surface. Wet 400, 800, 1200 and 2000. Then rubbing and polish. I hope no need of more clear.  Easier to focus on clear the tank only when stickers are applied and dried.

[Terry in Australia]

Good job Per, and I'm glad you took my advice to wet sand it with 400 and up, makes the job a lot easier than farting around with paper too fine to knock down the orange peel etc! Cheers, Terry.

[PeWe]

I tried 800 first but it could not do the orange peel, "paint dust acnes" only. The clear is rather hard too.
I hoped the covers can be sanded and polished only. I found one side with less clear, not same sparkling depth as the front side so it lean to more clear on side covers too after wet sanding it.

[Terry in Australia]

Good idea Per, get plenty of clear on it, if you cut into the metallic brown you'll ruin it.

[PeWe]

Yes, not much to sand there. I'll order an additional metallic can if that should happen.  I was worried to go thru the clear. I did that on the tank, metal visible. This is one of the Honda badge fastening plates under the badge, beside one of the holes. I fill with a drop of paint there before clear.

But I'll go safe and sand it just a little where thin, mostly for the next clear to grip. The orange peel is small, more like mandarine.

The metallic look MUCH better where the clear coat is thick!  That metallic must have a thick layer of clear over. It work like a magnifying glass, show the metallic much better. The color is darker and deeper.

[PeWe]

PITA job done today. Stickers on that needed some massage. I had increased temp in my garage with help of a car heater fan to 25C to making sticker more pliable. Sticker warmed up with the fan too just before.

Important that there is water on tank where the sticker is to be applied AND fingers to avoid it sticks to the skin. Difficult to make them perfect. Both are OK but the start at front differ around 1mm. Only visible if looking for it.

Important to massage the sticker by thumb to remove the wrinkles at the edges at the larger bend. NOT too hard press with credit card that work fine to press water out from the decal. Center to outer edges. I had to make a few holes with needle to let water out.

Too hard press with nail or credit card will damage the sticker. I had to redo it. I ordered new from CCC that finally is OK today.

When this was finally done I continued with the swingarm. Press out old shock bushings, hammer new needle bearings in and greased the bearings with MoS2 grease and inner collar.

[Terry in Australia]

Good job on the stripes Per, like you say, it's a difficult task to get them perfect, but you've done a good job. I'm not a fan of needle roller bearings though, I bought a set for my F2 and they were a sloppy fit compared to good quality bronze bushes, which are a lot tougher. You'll need to be super careful with them, keep the pressure washer away, if any water gets near them, they rot.

[PeWe]

Hi Terry, 
Yes, finally got the decals on after finding out that they must be carefully massaged until wrinkles disappear and decal will stick, some took several minutes .... 
I have ordered more 2k clear coat (2 cans) which the paint must have thick layer of to get it to shine and sparkle. I have only 1 can. Side covers need more of it too. It look boring where clear coat is thin, no sparkling depth.

I ordered a can of 2k glossy black to update the repainted frame that has some scratches after long storage and another 2k satin black for meter covers and fork top yoke.

I have used needle bearings on my K6 for long time without any issues. No noticeable rear play. It got needle bearings 1980 that made at least 65.000km. Fresh regrease at the complete restore and tuning 1983-84 and done 30.000 km.
My K6 got a restored K2 swingarm during the restore before its comeback season 2014. That was sold with needle bearings. Same there, an initial grease without refill.

Stock K6 swingarm has a grease nipple but that swingarm got all its 3 chain case brackets broken when the drive chain snapped on Autobahn when gearing down from 5:th to 3:rd gear and full throttle in an uphill.

 I was lucky I could roll the overloaded bike with 2 persons and luggage to a side pocket. I was sure about oil should drop but no case damage except for a slice of registration plate cut, chain case completely loose and chain marks around the rear hub, sprocket holder. A new chain from a nearby town (Kassel) and the holiday to France, Andorra and Spain continued. I got lift by a German guy on a scooter that was happy to get 4-5 packages of Scandinavian tax free cigarettes. Chain case found a dumpster the day after in France outside Lyon

I have had thoughts about better lubrication. My K6 will get a correct K2 bolt with grease nipples so I can fill grease until it squirt thru the sides as a nasty creampie
Same with this K2.

I have so far not used any seal at all. Only the metal double plate washers. Pressure wash must be done carefully.

[PeWe]

About swingarm.... I'll look for a good K6 arm that can get the bronze bearings.
The K6 has some power, plenty of torque. The needle bearings are very short, only around 1" long each. Bronze bearings are double that, right?

[PeWe]

Finally a huge step forward. Engine no longer taking important space on my work bench.
I put frame around it today. Got help to lift it down onto the floor resting on wooden planks.

Now easier to just assemble all parts. Fork need some work, clean, polish and new seals. Plus making spacers on top for stock ears when using roller bearings.
Not needed since the bearings have correct washer (4mm thick) under the lower bearing on stem.

[seanbarney41]

ooohhhh....is that a big old box of Yamiya goodies I see in the background?

[seanbarney41]

oh yeah...dont forget to put the brake pedal bell crank thingy and it's spring in BEFORE the swing arm.  It is a real chore otherwise.

[PeWe]

Thanks for the brake reminder.
I did the tricky version last time. I remember that I had to fiddle some with the spring.
Yes, the box is Yamiya. The new black inner fender on frame from Yamiya too.
I have more parts from DSS, AC Motorradteile, CCC and some others.  I'll get more space on the shelf for the stray parts filling the floor when assembling the shelf parts.

I laid the ground cable on the engine to remember to fit it under the motor hanger bolt. I filed frame and case for good conductivity.
I'll do the brake as next small job.
I'll test the grease refill to see how grease will flow thru the bolt before mounting the swingarm.

[PeWe]

Christmas update between food, Santa and movies.
I could not resist to sneak into the garage. The 2 minute job needed more effort with paint stripper removing 2K paint in hole for brake shaft. When soft a steel brush made it to fit. Battery ground added too. Frame filed on both sides. Grease on frame bare metal under the cable ear.

[PeWe]

Some more taken from the shelves and boxes and placed where it should be placed.
I'm constantly reminded that a Swedish K2 is a bastard between K1 and K2.  (K6 almost same mix with K1)
K1 -Rear fender (+ lamp) with its 2 round holes in frame(special washer for round hole , not oval), grab bar on left side only, blinkers
K2 - Engine, tank colors with graphics, meters and top yoke
It will get the later fork. So my NOS front fender I bought for my K6 will fit.

The project got swingarm today. All engine bolts tightened with the new Yamiya fot pegs I initially ordered for my K6 several years ago.
I had to lock brake mechanism in front position to get it on.
NOS K1 rear fender. hopefully no scratches within years. I'll add bitumen under it for rust and noise protection when sand will follow the wheel. My K6 fender had got it by previous owner. Work really well. Front might get it too.

I found that the roller bearings on steering stem must be replaced. I felt small dimples when moving it when tightened. Release does not help. Ordered today, hopefully quick delivery.
I checked that the height was correct for K2 lamp ear. OK- no gap at top.

It start to look like a bike now.
I'll do the rear sprocket holder next time, replacing its ball bearing and new sprocket. After that rear wheel on.

[PeWe]

Rear fender with rear light test assembled.
Fender off for rust and spatter protection. If it flows a little extra, no problem.
Got the centerstand on too. 
New steering roller bearings arrived today. Bike might become a roller before end of this year 
It take time to find all small new parts I have hordered on several places in the garage. Like playing a card game called memory mixed with mecano.

NOS fenders look dirty black inside (Bodyspray). Earlier today shiny chrome. They will hopefully live longer and less noise when sand spray the fenders when riding.

Rear fender back on the bike and I'm back on the sofa watching TV 

[PeWe]

Another small step further. Center stand went on. This frame has not used one since 1976-77 so i'm glad the clamps were still there in working order.

Rear wheel with sprocket side bearing replacement is next and bend bike backwards for fork when wheel is on.