Carbs are now off after clear tube check and adjustment with carbs on, took long time especially to mount float valves and floats with carbs on bike.
Changed needle clip to 1 step richer needed carbs off from bike and off a little from rack to be able to take out the throttle slides.
Stock carbs not that maintenance friendly
I constantly had my Mikuni TMR and older Smoothbore 29's in my mind that can get needles removed and back again with carbs still on bike. No re synch needed either!!
-TMR takes around 20 minutes, tank off, on included. 2 screws on each top cover, a small plug with allen head to take off, lift needle, adjust clip and back with it. The allen head plug could sometimes struggle to find the threads, light hand with no force creating new threads!
Worse replacing the pilot jet though, all bowls must go off and on at the same time and their seal is like a big squared o-ring that just waiting to jump out of its place and be pinched, new cost like $15 US/each. Glue it in place with vaseline.
- Smootbores (1 hour) also 3 screws on each carb top (I have have earlier replaced all x-screws with allen heads). Now more job since the throttle shaft must go out. Remove all screws holding each "throttle arm", throttle mechanism linkage included. Push and pull out the shaft, out with throttle slide, remove arm from throttle and get the needle, adjustt the clip and everything back again.
No problem to do it in 1 hour after first time.
These carbs seals is old style fiber that withstand so many float bowl and top off's and on's so I have lost the count.
Now back to the PITA CB750 carbs (or bubblers as they should be called)
Did the needle adjustment yesterday and glued the bowl rubber seals on the carb with a little Permatex Aviation no 3 to avoid the pain next time the main jet need to be adjusted and seals falling off and like to cause leaks. I cleaned all surfaces before and after bowl test mount with acetone. No Permatex to be floading into carb and clog the jets wen fuel has released it.
New bench sync needed and made it probably better this time using smaller drill bit, 3 mm.
I had seen suspicious stains around head inlet spigot 3 which made me to think about a leak. Probably not, only old dirt the paint has not covered.
But better sure than not, I used my new Loctite 290 that is very thin penetrating model possible to use on tightened nuts and bolts.
Applied around all 4 spigots. It floaded better than water, better than alcohol too. It will seal if there is any leak.
Carbs to be mounted tomorrow after work and take the fight to get the stock air filter box back on. So much easier with pods!!
I'll see if 110 will work fine now when needles are richer. I started with 115 on this build, 120 worked much better in the needle area but worse at top. I doubt that only 1 step on good main jets can cause that at top lift and full speed. So, in with 110 and see.
This is a relaxing cruiser in almost legal speeds so 180 km/h might not be a must to achieve. A little bit faster than most cars most of the time is a must to ride safely without bad car drivers hustling.
