Topic: How to rebuild my brakes... like a boss?

[calj737]

But I will stubbornly persevere with this against all logic. (Actually, had I even looked at the cost of a new MC before buying an MC rebuild kit, I probably would have just done that.)

- You're taking safety into your own hands if you decide you want to rebuild, modify, or work on (in any capacity) a safety critical system.

Interesting dichotomy of choices... 

[Stev-o]

I bet all of you guys a million trillion bucks that once I'm done with all of this, it's going to leak...

I would not take that bet!

[TwoTired]

I bet all of you guys a million trillion bucks that once I'm done with all of this, it's going to leak...

I would not take that bet!

Gee, I rebuilt 20 or more Honda Master cylinders and none of them leaked.

I just used Honda kits and for the correct models.  And, I did hone the cylinders.  Did NOT boil them. 

I do so like when I can do miracles.   

Cheers,

[ilikepinkcrayons]

I'm just kidding guys. Just to make a point. Even with the terrifying possibilities of soaking aluminum in a dangerous concoction of boiling hydrogen hydroxide, hydroxilic acid, and dihydrogen monoxide, I'm pretty damn confident there will be no issues.

I've read a handful of horror stories of people struggling to free their stuck pistons or pull their circlips. My MC looked and felt like someone used epoxy instead of brake fluid, then stored it in salt water for the past 10 years. After boiling it in water, dissolving some of the rust off with vinegar, and soaking the circlip in penetrating oil for a grand total of about 30 minutes, disassembly was a breeze with almost no cursing, swearing, or wishing I was dead.

It took a total of 3.5 hours of soak time, plus another hour of hands on time (including water changes, rinsing, finding a tool that will work to get the circlip out, complete disassembly, and a preliminary cleaning of the bore). This just makes sense to me. It could have been luck too. Or aliens.

[ilikepinkcrayons]

I'm finally placing an order for the diaphram and plate, plus some crush washers, and I've got a few questions:

1. After looking at this diagram from Western Honda, I noticed that I also don't have the bushing, #31. I'll pick one up, but what is that thing? I can't tell what it does.

2. It seems like I've got to put some serious pressure in the system before my brake light turns on. Is there a more sensitive switch out there that I can use? It's installed in the stock location.

3. Is there anything else I should pick-up that isn't exactly an obvious one to grab, but should probably be replaced?

[Stev-o]

1. It's a bushing and it's purpose is a good question.

2. Not that I know of. Have not heard of that issue before...

3. Brake pads?

[scottly]

1. It's a bushing and it's purpose is a good question.

It's a rubber baby bumper, Steve. It's a cushion for the brake lever when released. My K1 MC had one, but not my K7 MC; it didn't have the hole where it would have gone.

[CycleRanger]

1. It's a bushing and it's purpose is a good question.

It's a rubber baby bumper, Steve. It's a cushion for the brake lever when released. My K1 MC had one, but not my K7 MC; it didn't have the hole where it would have gone.

The first time I rebuilt a master cylinder I actually bought that part from Honda. 
Every one after that I just use a piece of rubber tubing.

[m00ntan]

Any help on that brake stop switch? From what I read, my switch is corroded from switching to DOT 5 and new switch shouldn’t have a compatibility issue.

[RAFster122s]

Regarding the stop switch
The trick is to determine the pressure level that triggers the switch, many old cars used the fluid pressure switches. Even Volvo 240s made from '75-'93 used them. My '66 Volvo used them. Not sure if the '00 Ford does...imagine it might.
I believe that a few places who cater to those replacing lines with braided will move the switch to the caliper area because of the line change eliminating that junction block in the stock system that has the brake pressure switch.  It is likely triggered at something like 5PSI....but can withstand hundreds of psi in pressure.
Check 4 into 1 to see if they have them, maybe call them...
Cognito Moto, Dime City Cycles, etc.

David

[ilikepinkcrayons]

Regarding the stop switch
The trick is to determine the pressure level that triggers the switch, many old cars used the fluid pressure switches. Even Volvo 240s made from '75-'93 used them. My '66 Volvo used them. Not sure if the '00 Ford does...imagine it might...

What do you mean by "the trick is to..."? The problem I have is that at the pressures I typically use to slow down at stop lights is actually less than the pressure required to turn the light on. This means I'm slowing down (albeit slowly), without the light going on. Bad news. The only time it comes on is if I really jerk on it (did she say that?). Also, I'm pretty sure my '81 Volvo 244 GLT has a switch at the brake pedal. I'm not 100% sure, but as I recall from the last time was a rolling around underneath the dash, it's got a little switch resting against the brake pedal arm.

Side note: Since I'm out of town on business and I can't work on the bike, I figured I'd just read forum pages, and I found this thread in the tips and tricks about people's DIY snap ring pliers. It's so hilarious. I love you guys!

[ilikepinkcrayons]

I'm finally back to working on the bike! I got everything disassembled, cleaned and honed the internals, then powder coated everything myself. I used a "0-10%" matte black. Just pulled them out of the oven, removed the thread/hole plugs and masking tape, and BAHM! I love them!

There's a bit of pitting on the surfaces, and I wish I spent more time sanding the casting marks and stuff off. After sand blasting, the texture hid some of the imperfections of the metal, but now that there's a uniform finish, the flaws kinda pop out.

The goal is to eventually have matte black lowers, dual matte black calipers, and super shiny hardware and fasteners, so that's why these are matte black.

[Stev-o]

BAM!  Nice job...

[calj737]

Ka-bam, make sure you grease the pivot pin before reassembly. And polish it up really first before that.

[ilikepinkcrayons]

Good tip. Thanks. That could be why mine have been squealing so badly!

[DV Red Herring]

Boiling the MC...

[ilikepinkcrayons]

Boiling the MC...

Don't hate, girl. Don't hate, get down...