Topic: WORLDS BEST DE-GREASER

[736cc]

EZ-OFF oven cleaner will clean the nastiest, filthiest exhaust mufflers, frame, sprockets, unbelievable. It will also strip aluminum covers. NOT FOR CASUAL CLEANING- ONLY FOR HORRIBLE THINGS. Wear rubber gloves and eye protection.

[750essess]

Make sure you dont get this magnesium. Tried it on a CBX I had once and turned all the mag covers black!!!. 

[Terry in Australia]

That's right, it's probably caustic soda, so it'll break down fats and grease real quick, but will also strip paint, damage skin, and discolor aluminum, so use with discretion, or you'll be sorry!

I like turpentine, it rips thru oil and grease and won't damage most automotive finishes if you just spray or brush it on, and wipe or wash it off. Great for cleaning an engine before repainting, I just did, with excellent results!. Cheers, Terry.

[nuke]

That's right, it's probably caustic soda, so it'll break down fats and grease real quick, but will also strip paint, damage skin, and discolor aluminum, so use with discretion, or you'll be sorry!

I like turpentine, it rips thru oil and grease and won't damage most automotive finishes if you just spray or brush it on, and wipe or wash it off. Great for cleaning an engine before repainting, I just did, with excellent results!. Cheers, Terry.

So is turpentine much better then the varsol I've been using? I heard that Varsol or thinners still leave an oily film on metal and that this is no good for paint prep. Is this accurate?

[Terry in Australia]

Sorry Nukey, I don't know what Varsol is, but thinners is a pretty aggressive solvent, so unless you're intending to remove the paint too, don't use it. Turpentine is okay to paint over as long as it's dry, unlike say, Kerosine, which has that oily base that you mention. It's still good practise to remove the majority of the stuff before you paint over it though, remember, your finish coat will only look good if you prepped it properly. Cheers, Terry.

[Orcinus]

This is probably a noob question, but what about a factory painted engine? (a 77 F2) I need to repaint it due to fading and a few replacement parts from a silver motored donor.  I was hoping not to have to completely strip the engine.  Will Turpentine clean the old engine for paint without stripping the old paint?  Any advice Terry?

[Terry in Australia]

This is probably a noob question, but what about a factory painted engine? (a 77 F2) I need to repaint it due to fading and a few replacement parts from a silver motored donor.  I was hoping not to have to completely strip the engine.  Will Turpentine clean the old engine for paint without stripping the old paint?  Any advice Terry?

G'Day mate, well if it's just faded, use the turpentine to clean everything, (it won't remove the original baked on black paint unless you leave pools of the stuff there for hours) give it wipe down with a lint-free cloth, blow some air over it if you have a compressor, etch-prime it, and hit it with some VHT satin black engine enamel.

I used high temp black on the head and barrells, but my F2 engine was apart when I painted it. I did the outer cases (alternator cover, clutch cover, gearshifter cover and valve cover) in VHT gloss black engine enamel, and with the stainless steel allen screw set, it looks brilliant! Not OEM mind, just........... better. Cheers, Terry.

[Orcinus]

Sounds like you did exactly what I was planning for mine.  Good to hear that it looks as good as I expected.  It would be easier torn down but there's not enough miles on this motor to tear it down yet.  Thanks for the answers.

[Terry in Australia]

Sounds like you did exactly what I was planning for mine.  Good to hear that it looks as good as I expected.  It would be easier torn down but there's not enough miles on this motor to tear it down yet.  Thanks for the answers.

No worries mate, don't pull it apart unless you have to. Sadly mine is coming apart again shortly, I made a couple mistakes the first time around, so I better fix them now I've calmed down sufficiently, two years after the fact! Cheers, Terry.

[mcpuffett]

I'm with Terry on this one turps and compresser chaser  i am in the middle of cleaning my 750 cases and internals and they are cleaning up a treat  ,    mick.

[BobbyR]

I'm with Terry on this one turps and compresser chaser  i am in the middle of cleaning my 750 cases and internals and they are cleaning up a treat  ,    mick.

I never thought of Turpentine. but it makes sense. Sometimes we go overboard with aggressive solvents. Before painting I like to use Denatured Alcohol, Just a quick wipe. I can soften the paint underneath, which is what I want for bonding.

[Terry in Australia]

I'm with Terry on this one turps and compresser chaser  i am in the middle of cleaning my 750 cases and internals and they are cleaning up a treat  ,    mick.

I never thought of Turpentine. but it makes sense. Sometimes we go overboard with aggressive solvents. Before painting I like to use Denatured Alcohol, Just a quick wipe. I can soften the paint underneath, which is what I want for bonding.

Very true Bobby, I always say that there's nothing better for bonding, than a little alcahol, ha ha!

[BobbyR]

Always worked for me. 

[ChevelleSSLS6]

I'm with Terry on this one turps and compresser chaser  i am in the middle of cleaning my 750 cases and internals and they are cleaning up a treat  ,    mick.

I never thought of Turpentine. but it makes sense. Sometimes we go overboard with aggressive solvents. Before painting I like to use Denatured Alcohol, Just a quick wipe. I can soften the paint underneath, which is what I want for bonding.

Very true Bobby, I always say that there's nothing better for bonding, than a little alcahol, ha ha!

/\ Do I understand a double meaning there?  haha I agree in moderation.

[Terry in Australia]

Probably the wrong thread to ask the question mate, but yeah, you could probably solder the float where it's leaking, but inside the float, where water has been trapped for a long time, it's probably pretty pock-marked with little craters of corrosion, so it'll probably "hole" somewhere else soon.

That's what happened to the brass float on my riding mower, and because it was pretty old I didn't think I'd score a new float, so I soldered it, and soldered it, until the weight of the solder was 'probably' causing the float to sink into the gas, and it kept flooding. Good thing with our bikes, is that you can buy new parts for them, so you did the right thing by buying a new one. Cheers, Terry.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Who has an easy safe solution for the baked on rain suit on my chrome exhaust?

[Terry in Australia]

Who has an easy safe solution for the baked on rain suit on my chrome exhaust?

Acetone Jerry, it's beautiful stuff, just don't drip it on your paint mate!

[anteak]

Non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner, applied with a cloth unless the part is away from paint that you wish to preserve. Stuff will take off paint, too, as I sometimes use it as a stripper/blisterer.

Or you can just mask the other stuff off and soda blast, then rinse with water. Works great.

[alacrity]

Also Dot3 brake fluid is worth a try on u painted metal as a "remover".  It will remove paint and adhesives nicely, and had a lubricating quality so you are less likely to scratch the chrome on the exhaust.  You might also have luck with Goof-Off - a citrus-based remover.