Topic: AmateurHour890_duncwerks

[dunc]

Well.  Nothing new here.  Just a young lad that's never done this before.  About a week ago I went north from Los Angeles to outside of Fresno to pick up a derelict 750, non running, titled (non opp). Straight on the trailer it went and stashed in my parent's garage in Huntington Beach.  All I have is a carport in LA and will go down on the weekends here and there to work it up to spec.  And bring select parts up to work on here at my place and my school's extensive shop facilities.





And it definitely has some stories to tell.



And issues might I add. But that's easily solved.



MMMM, much better.





And here she sits after a bit of a solid once over. Got her to fire up for a few 10 - 30 second instances using some electrical jumpers.  Going to say that the bike couldn't sustain idle because there's no intake system on the carbs, just open at the moment. 

My first thing to address will be going through the carbs, the obligatory pod filters, clean the tank out, and get it running from there.  I'm definitely really excited about this, it's been a while since I've had any sort of mechanical project to push on.



More later, as this goes.

- dunc

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Welcome dunc,

I'm up the way from your parents (in Long Beach).  There's plenty of good advice here on the forum.

For starters, download the service manual here and print out a copy for handy reference.  Perform a 3000 mile service and go through all of the systems.

A stock airbox will be easier to tune than pods.  You might want to pick one up on eBay.

[madmtnmotors]

Don loves to spend his nights and weekends helping young members with their projects, especially the cleaning part. So don't overlook calling him regularly to get extra hands for the elbow grease stuff 

LOL! 

Welcome aboard! Looks like you have a bit of a half-breed there. The frame, tank, wheels, and front end all look to be correct for the 77 K model. The seat if from an F model and since the engine is painted black it very well could be an F model engine. There should be no issues with the F engine in the later model K frame, but if you tear into the engine you will need to know the differences in the top end since the heads and cylinders are a little different between the K and the F.

Looks like you have some wiring to do too!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

A stock airbox will be easier to tune than pods.  You might want to pick one up on eBay.

Where's the fun in that, Don? 

Welcome, Dunc! Don loves to spend his nights and weekends helping young members with their projects, especially the cleaning part. So don't overlook calling him regularly to get extra hands for the elbow grease stuff 

LOL!!!
 

[MauiK3]

New wiring harnesses are not that hard to come by.
I will say, however, there really isn't an inexpensive way to do these.
Some sources you'll want to look over:
Yamiya750.com, great parts source and good exploded drawings.
Hondaman's manual, invaluable.

Best of luck, it will be fun watching.
Steve

[dunc]

Been treading water (barely) with school lately but it turns out I have a close mutual friend with Chris @GPMotorwerks.

Sooooo this happened.








Also - carbs are about to be reassembled. I have them fully broken down - dipped and soda blasted nice clean and now. Also making my own felt washers for the throttle / choke shafts. Will see how well these fit and be glad to cut more for anyone in need.

Lots of parts coming in soon.


GPmotorwerks was a real treat of eye candy in every which way you look.









I also make these hats with NLA patches and new U.S. made blanks ^ in black - tan - red.

until later - dunc

[SKTP]

WOW! That pipe looks extremely nice

[dunc]

Not sure what happened there was some recent replies on here including mine that are now gone?

Anyone experience that?

[Stev-o]

Not sure what happened there was some recent replies on here including mine that are now gone?

The website crashed last night, the last 10 days have been lost

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Not sure what happened there was some recent replies on here including mine that are now gone?

The website crashed last night, the last 10 days have been lost

[dunc]

REupdate - post website crash.

Carbs have been rebuilt but I'm missing the accelerator pump valves in float bowl #2. Got them mounted on the bike and fired up briefly. Then proceeded to drain and strip it all down. Operation weight savings has commenced and now I have a very heavy flintstones bike.



Pretty cool feeling pulling your first motor out of anything!



Also stripped the paint off the tank to see what I was dealing with and lets just say someone loved bondo.



Going to refill and touch this guy up before painting.



Also Racetech sent some goodies out to me for the front end!



So this is where I'm at right now.

Motor is pulled - has some gunky leak signs on the bottom underneath the shifter - so at the least that seal should be replaced. I'm contemplating how much more I want to get into it while it's out.  Should do a formal compression test to see where I'm at then readdress.

Also, if someone could talk me out of a calfab swing arm that'd be great too.

Going to work on some final renderings and parts list to follow up with. Until then!

[Stev-o]

Interested in the Racetech upgrade, be sure to give us a full write up on it.  Thx

[dunc]

A bit of more tear down and into progress as of lately. Pulled the valve cover to take a look - looks like a pulled valve cover to me. Anyone know anything about a K134 cam or see anything interesting? If it's a stock motor I'm looking to drop in a cyclex cx-1 cam for now and if not - I'll dig deeper.



Started to strip down the engine paint and damn these fins are hard to clean. I'm looking to have the whole engine bead blasted or vapor blasted to clean it up. Looking to do a brushed and cleared aluminum finish.







Got the shocks all torn down and cleaned out - ready for their racetech rebuild!



Picked up some spare tanks to clean up and make a choosing with. The K tank is cherry and ready to go - so I'll be going with that. The F tank has a ton of bondo work and really rough brazing.





Blasted the F tank just to see and yeup - bondo and dents. The left side is FAR worse.



And some more parts have come in.











Bikes getting closer and more progress will be happening soon. First and foremost is frame modification and rearset mounts. Then the seat / tail section is going to be fabbed up in thin steel, electronics boxes and such too.

Until then and if anyone has any idea on this cam - curious to hear or maybe I'll just pull the head and see what's in there.

Later.

[754]

Where does it say K134 . OFTEN they MARK THE END (maybe under the washer) or on the side of the cam.
 Looks like someone's been I  it, they usually have the piss drilled out of the cam sprocket, your may have a slotted one if it's had a cam change.
 So next, try to get a light in the plug hole, see if it's got a bore kit.

[dunc]

Where does it say K134 . OFTEN they MARK THE END (maybe under the washer) or on the side of the cam.
 Looks like someone's been I  it, they usually have the piss drilled out of the cam sprocket, your may have a slotted one if it's had a cam change.
 So next, try to get a light in the plug hole, see if it's got a bore kit.

What's the best way to ID a bore kit? Noting the valve cut out profile or piston top?

Thanks.

[754]

Usually the cutouts are bigger, often there is about a 3 mm flat edge around outside of piston, then the dome starts on bore kits. Dome usually higher, but not always easy to see the height  looking thru the little hole.
 Some great pics over in high performance, the thread us ID these pjstons.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

PM me if you don't want the F tank.  In my opinion, they have better lines.

[dunc]

Usually the cutouts are bigger, often there is about a 3 mm flat edge around outside of piston, then the dome starts on bore kits. Dome usually higher, but not always easy to see the height  looking thru the little hole.
 Some great pics over in high performance, the thread us ID these pjstons.

So on the shifter side of of the bike the came is marked K134 on the top between the 1 and 2 rockers and on the very most brake side end it's marked  K/H ..... D.

Just trying to ID if / what's been done to this engine because it's been repainted and I'm under the impression it's been opened up - I may (maybe I should jump to it) and pull the head and see what's the condition of everything.  It has good compression - but besides that that's all I know.

[madmtnmotors]

That's a Kenny Harmon "D" grind cam. More aggressive than the CX-1.

[Stev-o]

That's a Kenny Harmon "D" grind cam.

+1...good cam, I have one in my K4.

http://satanicmechanic.org/kharmoncam.shtml

[dunc]

That's a Kenny Harmon "D" grind cam.

+1...good cam, I have one in my K4.

http://satanicmechanic.org/kharmoncam.shtml

Recommendable to run better valve springs with it? I'm thinking of doing a head refresh while the motor's out.

[dunc]

mmmmmm Toasty.

[Stev-o]

Looks a little rich and your rings not doing their job. What's your plan?

[dunc]

Looks a little rich and your rings not doing their job. What's your plan?

Ha ya don't say!

At the very least a new pistons, rings, hone, and additionally going through the head cleaning the valves and ports out.

I'd really like to have a motor peppier than stock and being on a budget I'm a bit indecisive. So far I'm stock components with the Kenny Harmon "D" grind cam. 836 and raised compression with upgraded springs and valves and maybe a more aggressive cam sounds ideal to me. Any advice for sealing and refreshing this motor with a better kick on an budget? (bang for the buck in mind - I'm not trying to build a full out race bike... as fun as that sounds).

dunc.

[scottly]

From the looks of the counter-shaft, that is not a K7 motor; the K7 seal area protrudes out from the engine case, and the K7 shaft doesn't have the groove for the sprocket retainer. What serial # is on the engine case?