Topic: AmateurHour890_duncwerks

[dunc]

Mocking up a custom tank currently and working out how I'm going to mount it. I'm going to utilize the oem front mount but the rear is still up in the air, probably a similar style to the CR tanks. What is this part circled in Red? Is it a bumper / resting place for the tank or is it used for attachment.

And here's the fuel cap I'll be utilizing. It's off of a Cessna 195.

[754]

It's a rubber mount to protect it from the frame. I THINK z1  used them and many custom builders .
 Can you add a strap on the  tank (front to back), or is there a hook on the back end to pull tank down. .

[dunc]

It's a rubber mount to protect it from the frame. I THINK z1  used them and many custom builders .
 Can you add a strap on the  tank (front to back), or is there a hook on the back end to pull tank down. .

I'd prefer to add a hook to the rear, keep the top nice and tidy with only the fuel cap, breather port, and going to also install a little sight glass towards the rear.

Any idea on the specific name for the rubber mount or a search query I could use?

[754]

Fuel tank frame rubbers ribbed.

[scottly]

I'd prefer to add a hook to the rear, keep the top nice and tidy with only the fuel cap, breather port, and going to also install a little sight glass towards the rear.

The Seeley tanks had a hook at the rear: there was some discussion on the Seeley registry about a year ago. Might give you some ideas..
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,143304.150.html

[754]

I am going to run an alloy PE 250 tank. with a hook on the back
 This is probably what I will use,     3.00 shipping in the US

[dunc]

A little assembly action for once.

New fork tubes with internals from racetech. 

Pretty straight forward assembly and functionality.

[dunc]

*question*
What does one do for light(er) weight dual front rotors besides the EBC pro lites?

I've got my eyes on those but it's getting expensive for dual setup. I drilled my stockers but they were either warped then or were significantly warped previously, like 4+  passes on a brake lathe warped.

*question*
Has anyone retrofitted a custom or alternative rotor to the stock carriers?
When I picking parts, Ted showed me one of these old school cast iron specials. (see attached)

*need*
I'm also in need of a stock caliper outer with the line and bleeder inline with the axle (see attached photo / not mine). I had a bleeder (or what was left of one) not coming out.

Already had a larger master, stainless lines, phenolic pistons, and ebc semi sintered pads - so lighter rotors will round it out.

Thanks all. 

[calj737]

If your rotors are warped but still within spec for thickness, send them to Tom @Truedisk. He will Blanchard grind them flat again on both sides. Far cheaper than replacing the rotors.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

EBC are the only plug and play replacements for stock rotors.  They are definitely lighter than stock rotors, but nowhere near as light as modern rotors.

You may look at Dave Barbier's thread for modern rotors being adapted to stock hubs.  He swapped over to an older Yamaha R6 front end (with conventional right-side-up forks), Honda CBR600 rotors and custom rotor spacers.

[754]

If you pass on the cast iron rotors let me know.
 They should work better but they rust, ifvthey are thinner they will be lighter.

[scottly]

*question*
What does one do for light(er) weight dual front rotors besides the EBC pro lites?

Yamaha and Ducati rotors have the same 6 bolt pattern, but have a larger center hole and less off-set, so require custom spacers to center the rotor as well as correct the off-set. I ran two Yamaha rotors for a long time; they weigh about two pounds less each than a stock 750 rotor.

[scottly]

*need*
I'm also in need of a stock caliper outer with the line and bleeder inline with the axle (see attached photo / not mine). I had a bleeder (or what was left of one) not coming out.

Look into using a warm solution of water and alum (the spice) for dissolving steel parts out of aluminum or other non-ferrous materials.

[dunc]

Slowly, up to no good here.

Still in need of a 77/78 front caliper main body if anyone has one on hand.

Been taking a metal fabrication class at school and using it to work on my frame, fuel tank, oil tank, rear section, reinforcements. Will see how much I get done this term, but it's nice to work on this for "school" because I'm doing this whole project as my own "school".

Also getting back on the horse of solid modeling by modeling the frame as true to spec as I could. Great to see things in 3D without sketching every single view.

Anyways more later.

- dunc

[754]

 Always nice to learn new skills.. especially things that help on bikes.

[scottly]

Still in need of a 77/78 front caliper main body if anyone has one on hand.

I have two K7/K8 complete calipers that have been lightened and "polished", with phenolic pistons and fairly new (less than two years old) seals. They have been modified to use banjo bolts instead of the flare fittings. I used these on my bike until last Oct/Nov, when I switched to a single two piston caliper and large Ducati rotor. I also have the Yamaha rotors, but you would have to make a right-side spacer; I used that with the Ducati rotor. Do you have access to a lathe?

[dunc]

I have two K7/K8 complete calipers that have been lightened and "polished", with phenolic pistons and fairly new (less than two years old) seals. They have been modified to use banjo bolts instead of the flare fittings. I used these on my bike until last Oct/Nov, when I switched to a single two piston caliper and large Ducati rotor. I also have the Yamaha rotors, but you would have to make a right-side spacer; I used that with the Ducati rotor. Do you have access to a lathe?
[/quote]

OOOO I'd love to take a look at those. And yes! I do have access to a lathe. I turned some step up frame plugs last week with equal wall thickness throughout. (photos below). I'll PM you in regards to the brakes.

I've already got fresh seals and phenolic piston I suppose could now be used as backups.

[scottly]

The caliper assemblies are about 11 oz lighter for the pair than the stock K7, not counting the pistons. (a pair of phenolic pistons are another 9 oz lighter than the stock steel ones.)
Ditching the speedo drive shaves off another 10 oz.
The Yamaha rotors are two pounds less, each, than a stock rotor. 

[Godffery]

Dunc, Did you do the Caliper Mod?

[dunc]

Dunc, Did you do the Caliper Mod?

Still working out some details but nothing has been set in stone just yet - what's up Mr Godffery?

[Godffery]

Dunc, Did you do the Caliper Mod?

Still working out some details but nothing has been set in stone just yet - what's up Mr Godffery?

I noticed that the Pivot Arms in the photo have been modified and I was just wondering how that was done?
I have modified / lightened the Pivot arms on a few projects but in a different way.

[dunc]

I'll share some detailed photos once the setup comes in later this week.

[754]

Looks like a bit of milling machine work.  If I was lightening those, I would suit can the adjuster, and mill a big window in there.
 Then the spacers, take a bunch off the sides, similar to the rear brake side spacer on the 750 up to76.

[dunc]

Looks like a bit of milling machine work.  If I was lightening those, I would suit can the adjuster, and mill a big window in there.
 Then the spacers, take a bunch off the sides, similar to the rear brake side spacer on the 750 up to76.

As in remove the adjuster? Then mill out the center of the piece horizontally?

Additionally - are the adjusters really needed?

[754]

When I first went to dual  disc I used adjusters.. after pulling the wheel about twice, I took them  off. When i chromed my forks, i cut the adjuster part right off.
 Some will say you need them, up to you to decide.