Topic: HELP!!! Fork Spring Orientation 1978 CB750K

[cjackel]

 
I'm replacing the fork seals on my 1978 CB750K and I removed
the fork springs without noting the orientation of the springs inside
the piston.

The Haynes manual states the springs are "progessively wound, so note the orientation when removing"

I put the spring down when cleaning and forgot!!!!

Help!!!! I measured the distance between coils on each end and noted a slight difference with a caliper.

Thanks!!!! Email me at cjackel29@yahoo.com

[BobbyR]

I did mine a few years ago and the Honda manual mentioned nothing about progressive springs. They looked the same to me. What you may want to do is stick a couple of washers under the end caps to stiffen up the front end a bit. If you have a problem removing the Allen screw at the bottom, insert a broom handle into the fork to hold that inside tube in place. I used the 5.4 oz of ATF, some use 20 or 30W oil. Thats all I know about the job. Best of luck to you.

[Glenn Stauffer]

The CB750's didn't have progressive springs stock, but many owners added them.  As for whether the tighter section goes up or down, it doesn't matter.  Keep both springs oriented the same.

[cjackel]

Thanks guys!!

I just got back from the store with my ATF and parts cleaner and you already answered my question.

What a great forum!

Thanks again.

 

[Warlock]

Greets,
Your question gave me a feeling of Deja Vu. I asked myself that same question back in '75. Perusing my library of old books, I found the answer in a 1973 Petersen publication named "Motorcycle Repair Manual". The following is a direct quote from the chapter on suspensions (page 217):

"Where Progressive springs are used, however, the progressive (softer) end of the spring should be mounted away from (opposite to) the point of impact. Generally speaking, a lighter machine would benefit more from a progressive spring."

For what it's worth.....

[Terry in Australia]

G'Day Mate, well I just checked the factory manual and there's no mention of fork spring orientation, so if you have aftermarket progressively wound springs, just make sure that they are both the same way up. Cheers, Terry.

[cjackel]

This bike has 6200 original miles and the fork springs are stock OEM.
The fork oil looked as old as the bike. It was dirty but was blue in color.

The springs had only a slight difference in coil width on each end. This was most like due to my lack of measuring accuracy.

I replaced the fork seals (purchased from Partsnmore.com, Honda OEM seals) and used 5.2 oz of Honda-compatible ATF per
the factory manual. The hardest part of the job was prying the old seals out. The screw driver and rag (per the factory manual)
worked. The trick is to get the screwdriver tip just under the lower edge of the seal and slowly but forcibly pry up.

I test road the bike and so far no leaks.

[gkw120649]

Customer Service at Progressive said to put the tight winds at the top.  I had the same problem.

[gkw120649]

I just talked to Progressive a minute ago and was told by this guy it doesn't make any difference!  I talked to a lady the first time and she told me to put the tight winds up. 

[mgilvary]

The springs had only a slight difference in coil width on each end. This was most like due to my lack of measuring accuracy.

You shouldn't need to measure anything to see which end is the tightly wound one. The difference ought to be plainly obvious to the naked eye. Are you sure your springs are progressively wound?