Topic: ('77 CB550F) Valve Clearance question...Hopefully the last time

[GardenGnome]

I know that I already posted a topic regarding my inquiry with valve clearances. I have taken what information I received from that topic, and looked it over. I am here for hopefully my last time with a question regarding this topic. As it stands right now I have the motor at TDC and the cam when it was installed was put in with the notch facing towards the exhaust side and plane with the top of the cylinder head. All that being said here is what I have for information that of which I just cannot decipher. The information below is based on the rocker arm being either loose or tight. From what I've researched there is no pattern that matches what I have going on. Any help or insight is greatly appreciated in helping my decipher what is going on. Thank you.

Cylinder 4               Cylinder 3               Cylinder 2                 Cylinder 1

Intake:   Loose       Intake:   Loose         Intake:  Tight           Intake:   Loose
Exhaust: Loose       Exhaust: Tight         Exhaust: Loose         Exhaust: Loose

[BomberMann650]

Turn the crank another 360 and that changes.

The pattern you want is

1  2 3 4
O O X X
O X O X

O being the loose tappets

[GardenGnome]

So another 360 degree turn and then check and adjust the clearances on the loose ones correct?

[BomberMann650]

Yep.  Once you have it on the correct 1/4 stroke, you'll be ready to measure and adjust.

[mj1176]

You might be overthinking this a little bit. It's really easy: set motor to the T 1-4 mark, and either cylinder 1 or cylinder 4 will have both valves loose. Do that cylinder, rotate 360 degrees back to the T 1-4 mark, and the other cylinder (either 1 or 4, whichever wasn't loose the first time) will now be loose. Then set it to the T 2-3 mark and do the same thing. You don't need to worry about patterns or anything like that.

[Deltarider]

You might be overthinking this a little bit. It's really easy: set motor to the T 1-4 mark, and either cylinder 1 or cylinder 4 will have both valves loose. Do that cylinder, rotate 360 degrees back to the T 1-4 mark, and the other cylinder (either 1 or 4, whichever wasn't loose the first time) will now be loose. Then set it to the T 2-3 mark and do the same thing. You don't need to worry about patterns or anything like that.

This ^. Best to avoid mistakes.

[robvangulik]

The way you posted it in your opening post should not occur, with both valves on cil. 1 and 4 loose!

[BomberMann650]

You might be overthinking this a little bit. It's really easy: set motor to the T 1-4 mark, and either cylinder 1 or cylinder 4 will have both valves loose. Do that cylinder, rotate 360 degrees back to the T 1-4 mark, and the other cylinder (either 1 or 4, whichever wasn't loose the first time) will now be loose. Then set it to the T 2-3 mark and do the same thing. You don't need to worry about patterns or anything like that.

The "book" method doesn't require use of 2/3 marks.  I made that error once and it sent me down the wrong path.

[GardenGnome]

The way you posted it in your opening post should not occur, with both valves on cil. 1 and 4 loose!

That's what I thought too.  It's probably important to note that all the adjusters aware loose. I spent a good hour yesterday screwing each downuntil it was tight and then backed it off one full turn to see what ones were left loose and what ones were left tight. The result in the opening of my post is what I had for results.

[BomberMann650]

A full turn is a lot for tappets.

[TwoTired]

The book method was for Honda shop mechanics.  Two crank positions was faster to accomplish than four.  Time is money in the Dealer's shop.
Hobbyists have time to spare.

Book method works fine.  Four TDC crank position works equally well.  I rather prefer the latter.  Have used both.

Cheers,

[GardenGnome]

Again.... I know that I'm overthinking this, so let me ask this. If I turn the crank until I get the desired results such as the figure that Bombermann showed I should be good go and set valve clearances...right?

[robvangulik]

When you turn the crank 1 full turn, starting from the situation you sketched above, either cil 1or 4 should have a MASSIVE clearance on both valves, that's the one to start with. The rest you can do one cilinder at a time like Twotired&co advised to do, that way you (almost) can't go wrong!

[GardenGnome]

Robvangulik to be honest, there ways more wiggle with some of the rocker arms than others that I posted in the start of the topic. I just figured that I'd note what ones were loose and tight. I'll take your info and see what I can come up with.

I mean I know it can't be that difficult but I have a way of making things aren't difficult very difficult, it's a pretty sweet thing 

On a side note, what consequences could come from not doing this properly? Just curious.

[TwoTired]

On a side note, what consequences could come from not doing this properly? Just curious.

Too tight and you can burn valves.

Too loose and the tappet hammers on the valve stem, leading to mushrooming, then replacement.
Also loses engine power from valves not fully opening.

Cheers,

[robvangulik]

If your description was correct, either 1 or 4 should have way more 'wiggle' than the rest after another full turn, i expect nr. 4 to have been set at the wrong point where it should have NO wiggle so after turning to the point where it should have wiggle  it will resemble a seesaw on both valves. If i'm right, set those valves to the correct gap and than go on to the rest..and when all done check and recheck before even thinking about starting!

[GardenGnome]

Robvangulik when you say that number four was set at the wrong point, are speaking on the valve clearance? I have all the tapper adjuster screws loose. I did turn the motor over 360 degrees and the intake on four is tight and the exhaust on one is tight the rest have some degree of play in them.

[robvangulik]

Then you haven't set the crankshaft at the mark T 1,4.

[GardenGnome]

Just to verify it, I turned the motor over to T 1.4 with the T at TDC. Proceeded to remove the valve cover and everything checks out, the  notch in the cam was plane with the surface of the head and facing towards the exhaust side. How do I proceed going forward? As far I can tell I don't believe I've done anything wrong.

[mj1176]

How do I proceed going forward? As far I can tell I don't believe I've done anything wrong.

Nothing wrong yet, put the valve cover back on and check the tappets on cylinders 1 and 4. Both will be loose on one of the two cylinders. Set those valve clearances, turn the crank 360 degrees back to the t 1-4 mark and do the other cylinder. then set to t 2-3, do cylinder 2 or 3 (whichever is loose), turn crank 360 degrees back to t 2-3, do valve clearances on final cylinder. Then start 'er up and enjoy your buttery smooth valve sound

[TwoTired]

Wait, you removed the cylinder cover/rocker cover?  Hope you read the manual to reinstall it, to avoid bending multiple valve stems.

It's NOT a simple Off/On affair.  Got rubber bands?

Cheers,

[GardenGnome]

Yes I did all that. I'm not completely clueless, just on most things.  I do appreciate your concern TwoTired. I gave the motor a complete top end rebuild all new parts and thank to members like yourself I was able to accomplish this. I just wish I could wrap my head around this valve clearance stuff and what's going on with it.

[jonda500]

probably solved by now - but in case it's not...

there are three ways to determine that a cylinder is on 'compression' stroke rather than exhaust stroke and is ready to adjust the valve clearances:

#1 stick your finger in the spark plug hole for that cylinder, slowly turn the engine clockwise until you feel air pressure with your finger then keep turning clockwise until the T mark for that cylinder lines up

#2 watch the inlet tappet for that cylinder whilst slowly turning the engine clockwise, when you see the adjuster go down and start coming back up watch the timing mark and continue turning clockwise until the T mark for that cylinder lines up

#3 watch the opposite cylinders tappets (1 opposite 4 & 2 opposite 3) and while turning the engine look for the exhaust tappet finishing coming up just as the inlet tappet starts to go down - this tells you the cylinder/piston is at the top on exhaust stroke so the opposite cylinder is on compression and is ready to adjust the valves

John