Topic: Help finding LED waterproof momentary switch

[AirCanuck]

Looking for recommendation on amazon.ca (the .ca is important, not everything on .com is on .ca). replacing a malfunctioned one that wasn’t waterproof for the headlight button.

I was looking at this one.

Ulincos Momentary Push Button Switch U19C3 1NO1NC Silver Stainless Steel Shell with 12V Blue LED Ring Suitable for 19mm 3/4" Mounting Hole (Blue) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06XT2Y3T2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QwS3zbR6CBREY

Thoughts?

[FuZZie]

-These switches come with a rubber O-ring which makes them splash resistant but they can NOT be submerged in the water

I'm thinking not water proof thats from the add, but whats your goal?

[RAFster122s]

You need an ip68 momentary switch and they are not easy to find and be led illuminated in a pushbutton switch, ip65 is splash water resistant, not enough for marine or motorcycle use that sees more exposure.

[AirCanuck]

-These switches come with a rubber O-ring which makes them splash resistant but they can NOT be submerged in the water

I'm thinking not water proof thats from the add, but whats your goal?

Ah I didn’t see that. Goal is a waterproof switch as PO had one on that was “splash resistant”, as soon as it rained and the button was used it fried.

You need an ip68 momentary switch and they are not easy to find and be led illuminated in a pushbutton switch, ip65 is splash water resistant, not enough for marine or motorcycle use that sees more exposure.

Thanks! I’ll keep a lookout for that.

[AirCanuck]

You need an ip68 momentary switch and they are not easy to find and be led illuminated in a pushbutton switch, ip65 is splash water resistant, not enough for marine or motorcycle use that sees more exposure.

holy crap do these even exist?  I can't find one anywhere... only ip65...

[AirCanuck]

You need an ip68 momentary switch and they are not easy to find and be led illuminated in a pushbutton switch, ip65 is splash water resistant, not enough for marine or motorcycle use that sees more exposure.

sorry to keep coming back to this one.  What about ip67?  that seems like it's good from 15cm to 1m from what I've been able to research

[calj737]

You probably don't truly need waterproof switches. The stock switches were not and most have lasted 40 years and seen weather. It is likely possible to refurbish your current momentary switch with a bit of gentle care. Then, if you desire, you can "tin" the ends of the wiring and apply a slight dab of dielectric grease, and cover the bulk of the contact area with shrink wrap to help insulate from the weather. You might also consider the mounting location and orientation of the current momentary to better protect it from gathering moisture.

If you get caught in a downpour while riding, simply wipe the bike down and allow it to dry out afterwards in a warm, cozy little haven.

[AirCanuck]

You probably don't truly need waterproof switches. The stock switches were not and most have lasted 40 years and seen weather. It is likely possible to refurbish your current momentary switch with a bit of gentle care. Then, if you desire, you can "tin" the ends of the wiring and apply a slight dab of dielectric grease, and cover the bulk of the contact area with shrink wrap to help insulate from the weather. You might also consider the mounting location and orientation of the current momentary to better protect it from gathering moisture.

If you get caught in a downpour while riding, simply wipe the bike down and allow it to dry out afterwards in a warm, cozy little haven.

Good point!

I may pick up a backup just in case, but keep the old one and see if I can fix it.  They're like 10 bucks.  all the momentary switches I can find say they're rated to 5A and 12V.  Is that going to be an issue do you think?  Isn't the amperage a fair bit higher on these bikes?

[calj737]

5amps is too low for the headlight current. You’d want a relay installed to help route the power with that small a capacity. Headlight needs at least 7a, more if the bulb is beyond the stock rating.

[AirCanuck]

would that be still true if it has an LED headlight?

[calj737]

Maybe, maybe not. It all depends upon the manufacturer specs for the bulb. Usually, LEDs pull less current. It is imperative to know, not speculate, when dealing with circuit loads and related fuses/switch ratings.

[FuZZie]

Try looking around here:
https://www.oznium.com/waterproof-led-switch

Calj737 is right, although an average single led should pull around 2 1/2 amps it's not the rule.
Can you get the wattage of the bulb?

[AirCanuck]

Found out that the bulb itself is Incandescent

[FuZZie]

Then this would apply:

5amps is too low for the headlight current. You’d want a relay installed to help route the power with that small a capacity. Headlight needs at least 7a, more if the bulb is beyond the stock rating.

[AirCanuck]

Then this would apply:

5amps is too low for the headlight current. You’d want a relay installed to help route the power with that small a capacity. Headlight needs at least 7a, more if the bulb is beyond the stock rating.

Yeah precisely.  OK folks, I have opted to say screw the fancy looking LED and upgrade from a 2 button control to a 3 button control for the motogadget.  Will look great and all be in reach of the thumbs anyway, plus allow me to add a conventional killswitch.

[calj737]

For a wired “Kill Switch” you won’t use the MotoG 3-buttons. Those are momentary switches. You can, rely on the embedded feature of double-tap to KILL off the momentary button designated as “START” on your 3–button cluster. Just to keep things simple 

[AirCanuck]

Hm. Interesting point. Question for you: the starter currently isn’t wired as the battery is too small to crank. Will this feature still work? What does it do, cut power to the coils?

[calj737]

With the m-unit, there’s a standard feature: push START once to spin the starter motor, push twice in quick succession and it kills the power to the coils. I’ve never tried to use that feature without the solenoid wired, but I guess it would still cut power to the coils? Let me think how it would determine that though...🤔

[FuZZie]

You have a link to the m-units schematic?

[calj737]

You have a link to the m-units schematic?

There is not a “standard” schematic that is universal. There are “normal” methods for wiring the coils, but, depending upon what switch controls you use at the bars, you can wire power thru a stock KILL switch, or thru a momentary. Either way, the AUX port serves the power.

The trick is, the AUX port also provides power to gauges, TAIL, and license plate lights. Those are not disrupted when the double tap is executed, only the coils. I just haven’t thought about it really...

[AirCanuck]

You have a link to the m-units schematic?

There is not a “standard” schematic that is universal. There are “normal” methods for wiring the coils, but, depending upon what switch controls you use at the bars, you can wire power thru a stock KILL switch, or thru a momentary. Either way, the AUX port serves the power.

The trick is, the AUX port also provides power to gauges, TAIL, and license plate lights. Those are not disrupted when the double tap is executed, only the coils. I just haven’t thought about it really...

Did you ever puzzle this one out?

[calj737]

I have been traveling and have not had a chance to check what circuits are still alive after a double tap.

[AirCanuck]

I have been traveling and have not had a chance to check what circuits are still alive after a double tap.

No worries. My biggest concern is my headlight issue in my other thread...