Topic: Is a Spoke Torque Wrench Necessary?

[DaveBarbier]

I did some searching but didn't find any real answers. I just trued up a front wheel with new spokes and new rim and I don't feel like paying $100 for a spoke torque wrench I'll use once. I'm tapping on the spoke with my wrench and they make a 'cling!' noise. No dead sounds but the tones aren't all the same but they're close.

Those that have built wheels, have you all torqued them? Anyone have a spoke torque wrench they want to let me borrow?

Thanks in advance

[seanbarney41]

Have only built and trued one wheel, but did not use a torque wrench.  It has held up perfectly for 2500 miles so far.  Just make sure those spokes will hold up to the German standard...Guten Teit!

[HondaMan]

I did some searching but didn't find any real answers. I just trued up a front wheel with new spokes and new rim and I don't feel like paying $100 for a spoke torque wrench I'll use once. I'm tapping on the spoke with my wrench and they make a 'cling!' noise. No dead sounds but the tones aren't all the same but they're close.

Those that have built wheels, have you all torqued them? Anyone have a spoke torque wrench they want to let me borrow?

Thanks in advance

There has always been the 'legend' of those using the spoke torque wrenches...I've never actually MET anyone who relied on one, though. The guy who taught me used to roadrace (xxx speeds) and build racers, and he used the "ting/tang" tone method. There is one of the highest pitch, one of the lowest pitch, and all should be in between them: they both must ring 'cleanly' was his description. No "tong" or "tonk" or "tack/tock" was allowed: they must ring with a "singing tone" was his description (he was also a First Tenor...).

[DaveBarbier]

Sounds good guys, thanks. And yes Mark, the ting tang is what I'm hearing. Sounds similar to a doorbell...almost. The outside spokes seem to ring higher than the inside. I think because they touch the hub, effectively making the spoke shorter, like pushing a guitar string on a fret.


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[thirsty 1]

I did some searching but didn't find any real answers. I just trued up a front wheel with new spokes and new rim and I don't feel like paying $100 for a spoke torque wrench I'll use once. I'm tapping on the spoke with my wrench and they make a 'cling!' noise. No dead sounds but the tones aren't all the same but they're close.

Those that have built wheels, have you all torqued them? Anyone have a spoke torque wrench they want to let me borrow?

Thanks in advance

There has always been the 'legend' of those using the spoke torque wrenches...I've never actually MET anyone who relied on one, though. The guy who taught me used to roadrace (xxx speeds) and build racers, and he used the "ting/tang" tone method. There is one of the highest pitch, one of the lowest pitch, and all should be in between them: they both must ring 'cleanly' was his description. No "tong" or "tonk" or "tack/tock" was allowed: they must ring with a "singing tone" was his description (he was also a First Tenor...).

Agree 100% There's a feel thing that must be met. I think the torque wrench is a crutch and should be used for those gaining experience in this realm.  It really is an art

[strynboen]

you adjust the spokes to pull the rim in posision..not at a spec moment,,only at last..vhen the rim are in proper adjusting..you take a raund on all spokes..and teighten ..or thek them up...there a moment key can do some help...but still not realy any help..i have made abaut 10 hveels ..and all holds up fine..

[HondaMan]

Sounds good guys, thanks. And yes Mark, the ting tang is what I'm hearing. Sounds similar to a doorbell...almost. The outside spokes seem to ring higher than the inside. I think because they touch the hub, effectively making the spoke shorter, like pushing a guitar string on a fret.


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Yep, you've got the idea! 

[PeWe]

Lacing a wheel is like playing a harp!
It's trickier when hub has worned holes, oval of different degree. This means that some spokes need to be tightened more. It's otherwise easy to lace, tighten all equally in steps turning the wheel. Rotating it with its axle on 2 jack stands. Use a marker pen coming closer and closer until it touch and mark where it needs to be tightened more or less. sideways and up-down. Use a dial indicator will help to see how much. One bump not possible to fix, where the rim is welded.

My latest rear wheel has spokes were all spokes look equal threads on spokes are visible 2-3 mm under the nipples. Hub have no worn holes, probably low mile hub, look like new.

[DaveBarbier]

I was actually surprised how easy it was. I got a new OEM rim from David Silver and Buchanan stainless spokes from DCC. I read that "how to lace your wheels" post and it went very smoothly. I had very little runout up and sideways right off the bat. Used a dial indicator and with some tweaking I got it to .015" axial runout and .010" on the hop. And yes, the welded area must be ignored, scared me for a second, haha.

I also notice that my spokes are the same pitch (roughly) as my existing wheel, but they do not ring out like them. I think because my existing wheel has the tire around it which dampens everything except the ringing spoke. Interesting.

Do I need to go back and retighten after a couple hundred miles or are they pretty much set?

Thanks guys.


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