Topic: How to know if I need a new chain?

[ilikepinkcrayons]

Hey folks,

I have no idea what the history of my chain is, but i do know it's real real loose (slop is like 2.5" or 6.5cm!). There is still room in the rear wheel to add tension, but it got me thinking: How do I determine if I need a new chain? Can I measure the pin-to-pin distance of a set number of links? Is it as simple as "when you run out of room in the rear wheel, change the chain"?

Same question goes for the sprockets...I would imagine if there's a hook, replace them. If no hook, keep them going?

Thanks!

[754]

Try pulling it away from the back of the rear sprocket. Tell us how much it moves.

[Ace Blackwell]

I’m not an expert so I could be telling wrong but I understand that the rear sprocket tends to wear in one direction. As a stop gap you can flip the sprocket to ride on the unworn area of the teeth.

[tlbranth]

Frank's method: If it only hits the ground slightly on left turns, it's still good.

[flatlander]

yeah great. coz if the rear sprocket is worn the front one will still be like new, right? and the chain will be good as well? if stuck in the middle of nowhere you might consider this just to get you to the next shop, otherwise just get a new set of sprockets and chain.

754 is right: pull the chain away from the sprocket and check how much play it has.
common wisdom is to replace chain and sprockets together, as they wear together.

[Bankerdanny]

Sprockets and chains are not a huge expense. That said, I didn't replace my sprockets when I did the chain, but both were in good shape.

If the rear is worn enough to replace it is a virtual certainty the front is too, the front being smaller the teeth contact the chain more frequently. In both cases you should replace, not just flip and continue to use.

[strynboen]

 - sprockets..if they look bad..the thain is shot too..

[PeWe]

If you can lift chain over rear sprocket, 1/2 of a tooth. Replace it. Broken chain will cost a lot.
Buy a good chain, it will last long time nowadays and relatively cheap. Sprocket teeth should not look like surfing waves.

[Ace Blackwell]

I didn’t say it was a good idea, just something to get you to the next paycheck if need be.  8-).  Some improvement is better than none...... possibly.

[ilikepinkcrayons]

Okay. What brand chain do you guys recommend? How many links for a '75 CB550K1? A buddy of mine used to be a race instructor, and said he would avoid cheap chains. He also recommended avoiding the clip-on master link, and use a rivet-on type instead.

4into1 offers a chain and sprocket kit for $109.95 with DID chain/100links, and Sunstar 17T/37T sprockets. There are also EK, Parts Unlimited, and Fire Power chains at lower costs.

[Bankerdanny]

Mine is a BikeMaster.

I put 1,000 miles on it the couple days after I installed it and didn't have the issues with stretching that I did with the cheap prior chain I had gotten from 4into1 (I don't recall the brand, but it wasn't DID).

Just make sure you aren't buying an o-ring or x-ring chain. You want regular heavy duty. The o-ring chains are wider than stock and will rub on the case.

[Deltarider]

He also recommended avoiding the clip-on master link, and use a rivet-on type instead.

I did over 100.000 kms with chains that all had clip-on master links. Never had a problem and much, much easier servicing. Recommended.

4into1 offers a chain and sprocket kit for $109.95 with DID chain/100links

I'd stay away from the standard DID that I bought when my parts supplier - unfortunately - didn't trade the Tsubaki QR anymore that always did so well. Probably he gave in to people that want to have the 'original' DID letters on their chain. Alas, it's inferior and I have to adjust it much more often.

Just make sure you aren't buying an o-ring or x-ring chain.

Depends. Not before we've done a poll (what specific chain on what specific model bike) we know more. For instance, I know a SOHC dealer that sells the DID 50VA to CB500/550 owners and claims he never saw a problem (I can give no guarantee ofcourse). Time for a poll.

[tlbranth]

I have an SK x-ring chain on my K0 750 and will never go back to standard. It never needs adjusting. It doesn't rub on the case. I use clip-on master link (always have) and had zero problems.

[754]

 I had very good luck with Tsubaki 530 QR.
 Got one on ebay for around 40 but shipped last month.
QR  means quad staked btw..

[RandomOrbit]

I have an SK x-ring chain on my K0 750 and will never go back to standard. It never needs adjusting. It doesn't rub on the case. I use clip-on master link (always have) and had zero problems.

+1

I can't recall the brand of O-ring chain I'm running, because I replaced it and the sprockets maybe 8 years ago? Never had a problem with rubbing. I put on over 3000 miles so far this season and have only had to adjust it once.

[Deltarider]

I can't recall the brand of O-ring chain I'm running, because I replaced it and the sprockets maybe 8 years ago? Never had a problem with rubbing. I put on over 3000 miles so far this season and have only had to adjust it once.

What bike? Model K or F?

[Gene]

550 K1 - I use a DID chain, clip-on master, 530 X 100 -  not an issue with it though I don't exactly remember when I put it on. It was about 3 years ago. Still good and not stretched tho I did start riding the 750 more often last year. Plus, I don't do a lot of spirited riding.

There is a lot of info of the o-ring chains rubbing through the clutch seal on the case under the side cover. I have no personal knowledge of it.

[tlbranth]

I think FunJimmy has a 550 and he came up with a fix to the front sprocket when he had clearance issues. You might PM him. Also, when I decided to try an x-ring, I looked at the dimension changes, stuck a ruler on the existing chain edge by the case and ascertained that there'd be no problem. X-ring chains are just a tad wider than standard - the specs can be found online. The move to x-ring is like night and day. No more thrice daily adjustments/oilings and tons of oil all over the back of the bike.

[TwoTired]

On the 550, the front sprocket has to be offset 1/8" away from the engine case to use a 530 Oring chain.  You can mill the outside of the sprocket and add a shim on the inside to achieve this...every time you replace the front sprocket.

An alternative is to use a 520 oring chain and sprockets.

I once had a Honda Parts counterman convince me to put on a 530 oring chain on my 74 CB550.  Odd noises after install prompted me to investigate. Yep, grinding into the case and shaft seal.

I took it back to him, and he had to verify with his shop mechanics that it was a wrong fit.   Got a refund and the correct non-oring chain.

Cheers,

[RandomOrbit]

I can't recall the brand of O-ring chain I'm running, because I replaced it and the sprockets maybe 8 years ago? Never had a problem with rubbing. I put on over 3000 miles so far this season and have only had to adjust it once.

What bike? Model K or F?

CB750K6.

[Gene]

I can't recall the brand of O-ring chain I'm running, because I replaced it and the sprockets maybe 8 years ago? Never had a problem with rubbing. I put on over 3000 miles so far this season and have only had to adjust it once.

What bike? Model K or F?

CB750K6.

750's aren't a problem with a rubbing. So, cool.

[Deltarider]

750's aren't a problem with a rubbing. So, cool.

Exactly. We should concentrate on the CB500/550. Who had problems with what? What type of chain, what type of CB500/550?

[robvangulik]

He also recommended avoiding the clip-on master link, and use a rivet-on type instead.

I did over 100.000 kms with chains that all had clip-on master links. Never had a problem and much, much easier servicing. Recommended.

4into1 offers a chain and sprocket kit for $109.95 with DID chain/100links

I'd stay away from the standard DID that I bought when my parts supplier - unfortunately - didn't trade the Tsubaki QR anymore that always did so well. Probably he gave in to people that want to have the 'original' DID letters on their chain. Alas, it's inferior and I have to adjust it much more often.

Just make sure you aren't buying an o-ring or x-ring chain.

Depends. Not before we've done a poll (what specific chain on what specific model bike) we know more. For instance, I know a SOHC dealer that sells the DID 50VA to CB500/550 owners and claims he never saw a problem (I can give no guarantee ofcourse). Time for a poll.

Hey, Delta, i don't even know how you do it, but why do you always quote without sourcename?
That makes quoting inaccurately very easy and hard to verify!

[ilikepinkcrayons]

Awesome, guys. My buddy is used to maintaining a racing fleet, so his comments about riveted master links might not apply to 45 year old runabouts and weekend riders. I'll stick with the clip-on master link since so many of you have good experience with it.

As far as x-ring and o-ring chains, what is that (compared to the standard chain)? I'm more interested in reliability, ease of maintenance, and long term cost reduction (in that order) than I am in saving a penny here and there, but if one item is $20 more than something else that works just as well, I'd prefer the cheap one (again, all other practical considerations being equal).

And thanks for narrowing the conversation down to CB550s (again, mine's a K, but it shouldn't matter I'd guess).

[przjohn]

On the 550, the front sprocket has to be offset 1/8" away from the engine case to use a 530 Oring chain.  You can mill the outside of the sprocket and add a shim on the inside to achieve this...every time you replace the front sprocket.

An alternative is to use a 520 oring chain and sprockets.

I once had a Honda Parts counterman convince me to put on a 530 oring chain on my 74 CB550.  Odd noises after install prompted me to investigate. Yep, grinding into the case and shaft seal.

I took it back to him, and he had to verify with his shop mechanics that it was a wrong fit.   Got a refund and the correct non-oring chain.

This is great info, Thanks. I will be starting a 550 restoration in the coming weeks and have heard all the doom and gloom of running an "O" Ring Chain on that model, but it is my chain of choice. This will help me in the progress.

To the OP - If you are going to do your own chain and sprockets I highly recommend buying the correct tools. Motion Pro sells a decent quality Chain Breaker & Riveter Kit that if used correctly should last you a life time. As far as the Rivet vs. Clip deal?  Personally prefer the rivet but have to admit, the only clip  that ever failed me was on a dirt bike and that is a Horse of a Different Color. It is kind of like the Best Oil Argument 

As far as lengths go. I just go down to my local Dealer and get a 120 Length. You can then take it home, and with a good chain tool kit, trim it to the length you need. The best method to get what you want IMO, and the  common practice for most Dirt Bike Guys.