Topic: My first 750: '76 CB750F

[RAFster122s]

...aluminum anodized body right?  Use some Greased Lightning degreaser and soak the bare bodies for up to 15 minutes usually and all your old anodizing will be removed. Wipe off the black smut and you will have a dull aluminum finish that can be polished to mirror brightness.

Sorry to disagree, but, a degreaser won't effect a part that's been truly anodized. Anodizing is not a surface treatment, it impregnates the surface of the material to a thickness. Some chemicals will remove anodizing, but even brake fluid won't damage it sometimes which is why you'll often find it as a treatment on perches.

It can strip the dye on some anodizing, the polishing really is what strips the anodizing as the cleaned part when anodized is electrically grow the oxidized/anodized layer (the part when in anodizing is the anode of the electrical circuit in the acid that is used in anodizing)
So, yes the black smut is part of the outer layer of any built up dirt and the dye layer that had impregnated the anodized part. Polishing the part will cut through the layer of anodized metal to give you a polished part.

Castrol Super Clean and Greased Lightening degreaser will get the part to where it is polished much easier than trying to do it without that soaking step is my experience.

You are correct about it really not removing the anodizing... Many associate the anodizing with the color in the part.
I know this is not really correct.  You are correct it is not really removing the anodizing, just one (or two {dye layer is sealed after dye process}) of the steps in anodizing a colored part.

David

[Bankerdanny]

With my regular shop closed for a month to move to a new space I hauled the bike down to my alternate space, aka my sister's garage. It's almost 50 miles from home, so not as convenient, but I do have some misc parts and access to a welder, which will come in handy as you will see in the next post.

[Bankerdanny]

My main project at this point is to reconnect all the electric. First off figuring out why the starter button still doesn't work despite the new housing. It turns out there were 2 issues. First the yellow/red wire to the solenoid had frayed to almost nothing, so I clipped it and resoldered it. The second issue was the replacement ball bearing that pivots the plate to transfer power to the y/r wire was too small and was sinking into its socket (I was using the ball from a spare hi/lo beam switch after I stupidly lost the one for the starter switch). Fortunately I had one in my misc crap that was a little larger. Problem solved.

[Bankerdanny]

Now to the welding relevance.  Honda for some reason I can't fathom decided a complicated bracket setup for the headlight and turn signal was better than 2 simple ears (the changed that in '77). Mine had been damaged and rewelded badly so one signal was much higher than another. So I cut the bad weld, properly aligned the turn signal mount tube, made a fuller piece from scrap and welded it back up. Much better.

[Bankerdanny]

I also installed the new upper brake hose, piston and seal, and pads for the front brake. A new lower hose is on way.

[RAFster122s]

Nice fix for the lean angle on the turn signals.  You grind the welds to level them or leave them as shown? Hopefully at least neutralized the fluxes.  Congrats on some good progress.

Wire ends like that make me shudder sometimes...
They are a pain to fix.

our humidity levels have finally dropped to comfortable levels...they were in the 70% range which is more like tropical areas. Working in it was unpleasant.  I prefer dry heat of the desert.
David

[calj737]

Now to the welding relevance.  Honda for some reason I can't fathom decided a complicated bracket setup for the headlight and turn signal was better than 2 simple ears (the changed that in '77). Mine had been damaged and rewelded badly so one signal was much higher than another. So I cut the bad weld, properly aligned the turn signal mount tube, made a fuller piece from scrap and welded it back up. Much better.

Not trying to bust your chops or criticize you, Danny, but your welds need a lot of work. Both beads are run too cold and are probably very weak and brittle.

If you look at the edges of your welds (the "toes") you will see how they are rounded over. The toes needs to be fused to the base metal which makes the profile more of an "old mountain" look, not a "worm". Also, it appears the chrome wasn't fully ground off, so that will contaminate that weld and make it weaker still.

You can, without filler now, wash over those welds with a little more heat and get them to fuse in better. The weld will flatten out, and the toes should really burn in creating the strength you need.

[Bankerdanny]

Cal, thanks for the feedback. I am under no illusions regarding my welding skills and those welds were done with me holding the bracket in on hand and welding with the other. Eventually I will probably look for F2/3 ears to replace the bracket all together. Right now I just wanted the turn signals not to be cockeyed.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I fall victim to admiring great welding while completely lacking those skills. I'm looking into taking a class at local community college to learn some basics.

[Don R]

 I like the meme of Santa that says "I've seen your welds and you're getting a grinder for Christmas" He meant me. I like the tig because I can go back and wash it in on a second pass. I did however make a 9 bolt sidecover out of a 10. It came out awesome.

[calj737]

I like the meme of Santa that says "I've seen your welds and you're getting a grinder for Christmas" He meant me. I like the tig because I can go back and wash it in on a second pass. I did however make a 9 bolt sidecover out of a 10. It came out awesome.

I've seen that too, Don. Its pretty dang funny. Another great one is, "Forget the duty cycle on your welder, tell me the duty cycle on your grinder!"

[Bankerdanny]

Time for my semi-monthly update:

The bike is about 95% ready. I picked up a replacement tank at the Mid Ohio Vintage Motorcycle Days swap meet last month. It has a couple dents, but is rust free and the price was right. I also picked up a center stand and a Kerker muffler from the same seller.

The bike had a rusted out Kerker muffler when I bought it, it is was replacement meant to go on the stock header. The new muffler is one that would have come with a Kerker header (like the one that was on my 550F) and so it has an angle because the exit from a Kerker came from under the middle of the engine at an angle while the stock header on the bike exits outside and parallel to the right frame rail pointing mostly straight back. So the replacement Kerker has a larger bend and I have to rotate it about 90 degrees clockwise to clear the axle nut, which means the mount is pointing sideways rather than up.

I also snagged a Lester 18" 750F wheel off EBay last week. I think that it may be the best deal I have ever made in a decade plus of buying and selling.

Last weekend I did the 3K tune up and swapped the "replica" 105 jets that were in the carbs for real Keihin 108's and I have some 110's in reserve. I also installed a new speedo cable and 'pull' throttle cable.

The bike started right up and ran much better than during its maiden test ride 2 weeks ago. This definitely has more giddy up than my 550 had.

I put a plate on it and ran over to the gas station to top off. I had one DCO (damn current owner) moment when I was approaching a stop sign and the bike hopped sideways. I had forgotten to tighten the axle nut when I installed the chain last month and the adjuster slipped off and let the axle move. I put everything back in place and rode gingerly home where I immediately re-aligned everything, tightened the nut and put a cotter pin in it.

For the most part to be a rider I just need to deal with problems with my running lights/turn signals. The right front flickers on and off when riding and I don't have turn signals. But I do have a working headlight, gauge lights, warning lights, and tail/brake light. The brakes are working fine and no leaks in the tank. It's going to look pretty ratty for a while with the mismatched tank, seat, and side covers, but really I just want to ride and I don't care about the cosmetics.

So the pictures:

(1) is a replay of what it looked like when I got it. Notice how the exhaust fits.
(2) is with the replacement tank and side covers (side covers per FrankenFrankenStuff) and a stock muffler
(3) is #2, but with the replacement Kerker
(4) is the #3 looking down showing where the bracket ends up
(5) is the old Kerker and New Kerker side-by-side so you can see how they are different. Note the bracket faces up on both.
(6) is the new wheel. I was told it was a display wheel and has never been on a bike, which I believe. The tire has all its nubs on the tread and also still some of the red dye you used to see that would wear off.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Love that Goodyear Eagle A/T!

Do you have a front Lester? Saw one on EBay yesterday. Good price.

[Bankerdanny]

Love that Goodyear Eagle A/T!

Do you have a front Lester? Saw one on EBay yesterday. Good price.

I do.

When I sold the 550 I kept the wheels, so I can use the front on the 750 and hold on to my 18" drum rear for some future project. I am thinking a 650 engine/550 frame combo. I have 2 complete 550 frame setups, plus a '76 K tank and seat and a '77 F tank and seat.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I also snagged a Lester 18" 750F wheel off EBay last week. I think that it may be the best deal I have ever made in a decade plus of buying and selling.

Nice pull! I've NEVER seen a Lester 18" 750F rear wheel.  I was beginning to assume that Lester didn't make one.  And the one you got is is good shape, too!!  Can you post a reverse-angle photo of the other/braking side of the hub?

[Bankerdanny]

I also snagged a Lester 18" 750F wheel off EBay last week. I think that it may be the best deal I have ever made in a decade plus of buying and selling.

Nice pull! I've NEVER seen a Lester 18" 750F rear wheel.  I was beginning to assume that Lester didn't make one.  And the one you got is is good shape, too!!  Can you post a reverse-angle photo of the other/braking side of the hub?

I know. I see "wanted" ads for them all the time. I had a search set up on EBay and got an email notice a week ago. Not only was it the right wheel, the buy it now price was $50(!), the total was $100 shipped. Far less than it was worth, but it isn't my job to educate sellers, especially ones with over 100 ratings.

The only "downside" is that it is a 3" wide wheel, which is the outside spec for the tire I have on the bike now. I may pop for a brand new 120/90 of the same tire, which is a bit wider.

[slikwilli420]

If it is indeed a 3.00 wheel, then I would say you have found a wheel far rarer than the 18" front. I have an 18" F rear and its the more common 2.5" width. Well done!!

[Bankerdanny]

If it is indeed a 3.00 wheel, then I would say you have found a wheel far rarer than the 18" front. I have an 18" F rear and its the more common 2.5" width. Well done!!

I expected it to be 2.5, but it says 18x3.00

On the 18" front, there is a guy over at the NGW Facebook page that has the 18" front AND the even rarer than my wheel, 18" rear Lester Goldwing wheel.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

My 18" rear is 3" OD and I have a 120/90. Fits fine but I have a 77/78 F swingarm with the 10mm offset on my 75F.

My 16" is 3 7/8" OD

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I also snagged a Lester 18" 750F wheel off EBay last week. I think that it may be the best deal I have ever made in a decade plus of buying and selling.

Nice pull! I've NEVER seen a Lester 18" 750F rear wheel.  I was beginning to assume that Lester didn't make one.  And the one you got is is good shape, too!!  Can you post a reverse-angle photo of the other/braking side of the hub?

I know. I see "wanted" ads for them all the time. I had a search set up on EBay and got an email notice a week ago. Not only was it the right wheel, the buy it now price was $50(!), the total was $100 shipped. Far less than it was worth, but it isn't my job to educate sellers, especially ones with over 100 ratings.

The only "downside" is that it is a 3" wide wheel, which is the outside spec for the tire I have on the bike now. I may pop for a brand new 120/90 of the same tire, which is a bit wider.

I run a 140/80 on my 18" 550 Lester rear. No problems.

image_zps7yl1pqmu by Donald Leonhardt, on Flickr

[Bankerdanny]

I also snagged a Lester 18" 750F wheel off EBay last week. I think that it may be the best deal I have ever made in a decade plus of buying and selling.

Nice pull! I've NEVER seen a Lester 18" 750F rear wheel.  I was beginning to assume that Lester didn't make one.  And the one you got is is good shape, too!!  Can you post a reverse-angle photo of the other/braking side of the hub?

I know. I see "wanted" ads for them all the time. I had a search set up on EBay and got an email notice a week ago. Not only was it the right wheel, the buy it now price was $50(!), the total was $100 shipped. Far less than it was worth, but it isn't my job to educate sellers, especially ones with over 100 ratings.

The only "downside" is that it is a 3" wide wheel, which is the outside spec for the tire I have on the bike now. I may pop for a brand new 120/90 of the same tire, which is a bit wider.

I run a 140/80 on my 18" 550 Lester rear. No problems.

image_zps7yl1pqmu by Donald Leonhardt, on Flickr

The 18-2.15 on my 550 came with a 130/90 on it. That just looked too big on the 550 in my opinion. The 750, especially the more rectilinear F can support a wider tire.

[Bankerdanny]

Almost 3 weeks since my last update. Not much accomplished, my weekends have been crowded and with MotoGuild currently closed (as a sidebar, he was a week from opening last month when someone torched a stolen car next to the new building and it spread to the building destroying pretty much all his equipment as well as that of the scooter guys who rented space from him along with a few scooters and a bunch of spare parts. The bikes stored at the back of the shop just had some smoke damage. He is now looking for a new space, but it could be late Fall before he opens again, if he does at all) I am stuck with the 45 mile drive to my sisters to work on it, which limits how often I can do it.

On the up side, mechanically it should be ready to go, although I am sure actual riding will reveal issues that I am unaware of right now. All the important lights and the horn (important in the city) work, but I don't have working turn signals. I did install different rear signals last weekend, but didn't have time to sort the electrical problems. I am planning on grabbing a trailer and heading down Sunday morning. I should be able to sort the turn signals, then I will haul it back home and try and put some miles on it. I picked up some paint that looks to match the tank and I will do a quick and dirty job on the tail piece to match the tank. I am thinking black peal off for the side covers, which isn't too far off of stock.

For the rest of this season I am just going to run the stock wheels, but over the winter it will get the Lesters on it along with a dual disk conversion and a proper paint job. Knock wood next year will be all about riding rather than wrenching.

[Bankerdanny]

Oh, and I think I have found the color that I want to paint it: Porsche Golden Yellow Metallic.

[kap384@telus.net]

Cool colour.  Side covers too or 2 tone like the original? 

[Bankerdanny]

Cool colour.  Side covers too or 2 tone like the original?

I am thinking 2 tone like stock. I like the contrast. I just repainted my side covers today actually.