Topic: And so...it begins - 1975 CB550F

[Jooky]

One more advantage of the Hindle -- you can keep your center stand.

Believe the Delkevic system can also be used with the center stand. Is there a $200 difference in quality between their system and Hindle? Seems like the Delkevic reviews on here have been largely positive.

[Stev-o]

One more advantage of the Hindle -- you can keep your center stand.

Believe the Delkevic system can also be used with the center stand. Is there a $200 difference in quality between their system and Hindle? Seems like the Delkevic reviews on here have been largely positive.

I recently installed a Delkevic on my Kaw H2, the quality of workmanship is excellent.

[Jooky]

Managed to sneak away to the garage a bit over the weekend and get some work done on the bike. First order of business was removing the old exhaust:

TBD on what I will replace it with. Next was replacing some leaking forks seals. Managed to get the bike up off the ground using a scissor jack, a piece of 2x4, a tire chock, and a couple of jack stands:

First one took a little physical encouragement from a mallet and a dowel to come free from it's home, but the second one came right out:

Separating the two ends did not prove too difficult, although that old ATF smelled awful! Got everything drained, cleaned up, and the old "snap ring" (more like a paper clip) removed, but the old seal is giving me a fit. I've tried a couple different screwdrivers, but I think I'm going to need a pry bar of some sort as it does not want to budge. Would it be easier to use a razor blade and cut it in half rather than marring the fork tube all up trying to pry it out? I have replacement seals and snap rings, so I wouldn't think to be too concerned with preserving the old one. Although, I'm not sure if there's some metal reinforcement in these things, or if they are 100% rubber.

Also, the upper portions of the fork tubes have a bit of corrosion/rust. I was able to wipe most of the rust right off, but that thicker corrosion is staying put. It's under the gaiters so I'm not too concerned about cosmetic appeal, but I didn't know if I should be trying to clean it up otherwise?

[flatlander]

don't throw away the header pipes, somebody might want them. they're a design element of the 550F that's getting rare as so many people have replaced the original exhaust.

[Stev-o]

Heat up the old fork seal to easily remove it. I've also used a very small c-clamp.

The corrosion should not be an issue unless its the area that comes in contact with the seal?

[Jooky]

don't throw away the header pipes, somebody might want them. they're a design element of the 550F that's getting rare as so many people have replaced the original exhaust.

Noted. They look like an art piece laying on my garage floor. I'd be hard pressed to trash them!

[Jooky]

Heat up the old fork seal to easily remove it. I've also used a very small c-clamp.

The corrosion should not be an issue unless its the area that comes in contact with the seal?

Thanks for the tip Stev-O. Do you just use a butane torch on the exterior wall of the lower fork tube by the seal, or would a heat gun suffice? I don't think I have any really small c-clamps, but I'm growing my tool collection based on need, so maybe it's time I found one. The corrosion is above the length of the fork that comes into contact with the seal, so I think it should be okay.

[Stev-o]

Heat up the old fork seal to easily remove it. I've also used a very small c-clamp.

The corrosion should not be an issue unless its the area that comes in contact with the seal?

Do you just use a butane torch on the exterior wall of the lower fork tube by the seal, or would a heat gun suffice?

I used a torch but either method will work.

BTW - use the old seal [with a hammer] to drive in the new one.

[Jooky]

Heat up the old fork seal to easily remove it. I've also used a very small c-clamp.

The corrosion should not be an issue unless its the area that comes in contact with the seal?

Do you just use a butane torch on the exterior wall of the lower fork tube by the seal, or would a heat gun suffice?

I used a torch but either method will work.

BTW - use the old seal [with a hammer] to drive in the new one.

Ha, genius!

[Jooky]

Stev-o, your recommendation re: the C-clamp was just what the doctor ordered. I tried a multitude of pry bars, but in the end, it was the little C-clamp that could!


Looks like she's ready for a new seal:


Now, before I go an pound this new seal in, I wanted to make sure I have it oriented correctly. I would assume this is up (words on top):

Where this little ridge is towards the bottom of the seal:

and NOT this way up:

Correct?

I really don't want to have to pry out a brand new seal because I didn't ask this question and thought I knew which way this thing should be oriented. It doesn't look exactly like the old one, so I thought better safe than sorry and ask the question.

[Scott S]

 Numbers go up. The side with the internal spring faces down. Rub a little fork oil on the  O.D. to help with installation.

[Jooky]

Numbers go up. The side with the internal spring faces down. Rub a little fork oil on the  O.D. to help with installation.

Thank you, Scott. Managed to get the new seal installed without too much fuss (Thanks to Stev-o for the tip on using the old seal to seat the new). Loaded the fork up with some 15 weight fork oil and got it re-installed back on the bike. I must say, re-installing the gaiter was almost as bad as getting the old seal out!

1 down, 1 to go!

[Stev-o]

Oh....you forgot to polish the fork lower before reinstall!

[Jooky]

Oh....you forgot to polish the fork lower before reinstall!

You mean the external surface of the lower leg? I don't have any polish on hand at the moment  . I tried to use some of this "Never Dull" stuff I have, but I think that's only good for surfaces that aren't already all tarnished.

What kind of tools/materials do you use for most of your polishing Stev-o?

[spuds]

I am discovering the world of possibilities that 000 or 0000 steel wool opens up when it comes to cleaning bits up.   Find it in the paint section of any major Lowe's or Home Depot type place.

[Jooky]

I am discovering the world of possibilities that 000 or 0000 steel wool opens up when it comes to cleaning bits up.   Find it in the paint section of any major Lowe's or Home Depot type place.

I may actually have some of this lying around from a gun stock I refinished a while back. I'll give it a go!

[RAFster122s]

A stainless steel brush can cut through the aluminum oxidation leaving a brushed surface,  you can then get cloth backed sandpaper or emery cloth to sand it like buffing a shoe with a rag. Work your way up to at least 400 grit and if you want high polish you will need to remove the forks from the trees to use a buffer on them after sanding any scratches out with progressing up to 1000.

David

[Jooky]

Well no polishing work has been accomplished....yet, but I have managed to re-plumb the front brake with new upper and lower hoses and a new switch. In doing so, I noticed this clip, but I have no idea what it is used for:

The front brake system was previously taken off the bike, so I have no idea if this is even in it's original location. Can anyone tell me what this is for?

Also, I have components to rebuild the front caliper (piston and seal), but there is some crud in the channel that the seal fits into. I don't want to mar the mating surface, so any tips on cleaning this thoroughly or any feedback on how this looks (salvageable?).

[flatlander]

that clip looks like the one holding the electrical wires. but on my 550F it's not on that switch but on the fork bridge:

[Stev-o]

I noticed this clip, but I have no idea what it is used for:

 Can anyone tell me what this is for?

That holds the speedo cable.

[flatlander]

really? it seems to be at a wrong angle for that.
do you have pic of how it should be, with the cable? it might be a missing piece on my bike!

[Stev-o]

really? it seems to be at a wrong angle for that.
do you have pic of how it should be, with the cable? it might be a missing piece on my bike!

This is how it came to me, so it is my assumption [bike was not modified, other that some stupid stickers]
This shot is taken from the front, the holder is at "9:00"...

[flatlander]

ah yes, at 9:00 it makes more sense. thanks!

[Jooky]

That holds the speedo cable.

Appreciate the info as always Stev-o. No new pictures to post, but a general update. Spent some time over the Thanksgiving holiday working on the CB. Completed both forks seals, added some 15w fork oil, and got them installed back on the bike (Sorry Stev-O, still haven't polished them  ).

Green ScotchBrite pads work really well on cleaning the aluminum cast parts. That seal groove needs to be spotless

Thanks for the tip Cal. I cleaned the front brake caliper with a ScotchBrite pad and replaced the piston and seal (after getting that channel spotless). Re-plumbed the brake system with some new upper and lower hoses and replaced the hydraulic brake switch. With everything back together, I did run in to some leaks once I loaded the system up with brake fluid; but I addressed all of them and the front brake is now bled and firm.

Next up was replacing my ignition/engine kill switch assembly and throttle cables. The ignition-engine kill switch that came with the bike was devoid of an actual ignition button. Someone had jerry-rigged what basically looked like a doorbell into the wiring to act as the ignition switch. I tried to locate a replacement, but Honda part 35130-377-670 are few and far between and about $100+ when available. I did read that part 35130-377-670 was superseded by part 35130-377-P00 and should work for a 75 CB550F (https://zoomdune.com/always-on-always-a-problem-honda-starter-button-woes/). The cables were well worn and exposing the metal housing in some places where the plastic had worn through or been damaged.

I found a NOS ignition/engine kill switch on eBay for $40 and rolled the dice (part #35130-377-P00). Everything was going well until I went to install the push throttle cable. The lower housing on the 35130-377-P00 is ever so different in that the mold allows the head of the push cable housing a few extra mm of insertion. As a result, the nut that is supposed to cinch up the cable housing to the lower half of the ignition/engine kill switch assembly, fails to do so. Now, both of my cables are taught and not slipping off of the linkage on the carbs, but if you roll the throttle forward, the push cable exerts pressure against the inside of the housing and it pops the "L" shaped bend in the bottom of the ignition/engine kill switch out a couple mm. Rolling the throttle on, sucks that "L" shaped bend back up into the lower portion of the ignition/kill-switch housing.

I'm sure a picture would be worth a 1,000 words here, as I'm likely not explaining this well; but aside from a little tick and the housing moving about a couple mm, the cables are secure and the throttle seems otherwise unimpeded. I may wrap a couple loops of some wire around the push cable housing and re-cinch down that nut in hopes it takes up the extra slack.

I suppose the old adage is appropriate here...."buy once, cry once" 

[RAFster122s]

If you have a dremel a brass brush in the tool with dremel at about 1/2 power , the rotary brushes are only to be ran at 15,000 rpm or below, does a nice job cleaning the groove.  Otherwise attack it with dental tools to get the corners clean. A sharp point won't do a good job with that, but a pick that can be used to scrape the slot clean is ideal.  Brass will not harm your caliper body as it is softer than the aluminum.
HF sells brass toothbrushes that are real brass, not a brass coated steel brush.  The later can damage any aluminum you use it on.