Topic: And so...it begins - 1975 CB550F

[Jooky]

That exhaust looks pretty shot.  You possible may be able to use the head pipes and weld on a collector? Look here...

http://www.coneeng.com/collector_components.html

  Looks to be more trouble than it's likely worth to just preserve the OEM flanges/look. I've been eyeballing options from Delkevic and Hindle. Any other options to consider?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I am very happy with the Hindle 4-2-1 (full stainless). 

MotoGP Werks occasionally produces a 4-1 Yosh replica but they sell fast and are more expensive (but well made).

Lossa makes a great 4-1 that YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE TO CHANGE YOUR OIL FILTER.
Mandrell bent with a Cone Engineering Muffler
https://www.lossaengineering.com/products/lossa-brand-4-into-1-exhaust-that-fits-honda-cb500-cb550?variant=49225573254
Mild Steel $465
Stainless Steel $650
You can have it ceramic coated AND Jay will also weld on an appropriate mount tab (to stabilize the rear of the pipe so it doesn't overstrain your head) for your model if you want.

[Stev-o]

That exhaust looks pretty shot.  You possible may be able to use the head pipes and weld on a collector? Look here...

http://www.coneeng.com/collector_components.html

  Looks to be more trouble than it's likely worth to just preserve the OEM flanges/look.

Just depends how much you like the swooping head pipes on the 550F? Since your bike is not close to original, prolly doesnt make sense for you. Don has given you some good options...

[calj737]

Hindle it up, Jooky.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

One more advantage of the Hindle -- you can keep your center stand.

[Jooky]

One more advantage of the Hindle -- you can keep your center stand.

Believe the Delkevic system can also be used with the center stand. Is there a $200 difference in quality between their system and Hindle? Seems like the Delkevic reviews on here have been largely positive.

[Stev-o]

One more advantage of the Hindle -- you can keep your center stand.

Believe the Delkevic system can also be used with the center stand. Is there a $200 difference in quality between their system and Hindle? Seems like the Delkevic reviews on here have been largely positive.

I recently installed a Delkevic on my Kaw H2, the quality of workmanship is excellent.

[Jooky]

Managed to sneak away to the garage a bit over the weekend and get some work done on the bike. First order of business was removing the old exhaust:

TBD on what I will replace it with. Next was replacing some leaking forks seals. Managed to get the bike up off the ground using a scissor jack, a piece of 2x4, a tire chock, and a couple of jack stands:

First one took a little physical encouragement from a mallet and a dowel to come free from it's home, but the second one came right out:

Separating the two ends did not prove too difficult, although that old ATF smelled awful! Got everything drained, cleaned up, and the old "snap ring" (more like a paper clip) removed, but the old seal is giving me a fit. I've tried a couple different screwdrivers, but I think I'm going to need a pry bar of some sort as it does not want to budge. Would it be easier to use a razor blade and cut it in half rather than marring the fork tube all up trying to pry it out? I have replacement seals and snap rings, so I wouldn't think to be too concerned with preserving the old one. Although, I'm not sure if there's some metal reinforcement in these things, or if they are 100% rubber.

Also, the upper portions of the fork tubes have a bit of corrosion/rust. I was able to wipe most of the rust right off, but that thicker corrosion is staying put. It's under the gaiters so I'm not too concerned about cosmetic appeal, but I didn't know if I should be trying to clean it up otherwise?

[flatlander]

don't throw away the header pipes, somebody might want them. they're a design element of the 550F that's getting rare as so many people have replaced the original exhaust.

[Stev-o]

Heat up the old fork seal to easily remove it. I've also used a very small c-clamp.

The corrosion should not be an issue unless its the area that comes in contact with the seal?

[Jooky]

don't throw away the header pipes, somebody might want them. they're a design element of the 550F that's getting rare as so many people have replaced the original exhaust.

Noted. They look like an art piece laying on my garage floor. I'd be hard pressed to trash them!

[Jooky]

Heat up the old fork seal to easily remove it. I've also used a very small c-clamp.

The corrosion should not be an issue unless its the area that comes in contact with the seal?

Thanks for the tip Stev-O. Do you just use a butane torch on the exterior wall of the lower fork tube by the seal, or would a heat gun suffice? I don't think I have any really small c-clamps, but I'm growing my tool collection based on need, so maybe it's time I found one. The corrosion is above the length of the fork that comes into contact with the seal, so I think it should be okay.

[Stev-o]

Heat up the old fork seal to easily remove it. I've also used a very small c-clamp.

The corrosion should not be an issue unless its the area that comes in contact with the seal?

Do you just use a butane torch on the exterior wall of the lower fork tube by the seal, or would a heat gun suffice?

I used a torch but either method will work.

BTW - use the old seal [with a hammer] to drive in the new one.

[Jooky]

Heat up the old fork seal to easily remove it. I've also used a very small c-clamp.

The corrosion should not be an issue unless its the area that comes in contact with the seal?

Do you just use a butane torch on the exterior wall of the lower fork tube by the seal, or would a heat gun suffice?

I used a torch but either method will work.

BTW - use the old seal [with a hammer] to drive in the new one.

Ha, genius!

[Jooky]

Stev-o, your recommendation re: the C-clamp was just what the doctor ordered. I tried a multitude of pry bars, but in the end, it was the little C-clamp that could!


Looks like she's ready for a new seal:


Now, before I go an pound this new seal in, I wanted to make sure I have it oriented correctly. I would assume this is up (words on top):

Where this little ridge is towards the bottom of the seal:

and NOT this way up:

Correct?

I really don't want to have to pry out a brand new seal because I didn't ask this question and thought I knew which way this thing should be oriented. It doesn't look exactly like the old one, so I thought better safe than sorry and ask the question.

[Scott S]

 Numbers go up. The side with the internal spring faces down. Rub a little fork oil on the  O.D. to help with installation.

[Jooky]

Numbers go up. The side with the internal spring faces down. Rub a little fork oil on the  O.D. to help with installation.

Thank you, Scott. Managed to get the new seal installed without too much fuss (Thanks to Stev-o for the tip on using the old seal to seat the new). Loaded the fork up with some 15 weight fork oil and got it re-installed back on the bike. I must say, re-installing the gaiter was almost as bad as getting the old seal out!

1 down, 1 to go!

[Stev-o]

Oh....you forgot to polish the fork lower before reinstall!

[Jooky]

Oh....you forgot to polish the fork lower before reinstall!

You mean the external surface of the lower leg? I don't have any polish on hand at the moment  . I tried to use some of this "Never Dull" stuff I have, but I think that's only good for surfaces that aren't already all tarnished.

What kind of tools/materials do you use for most of your polishing Stev-o?

[spuds]

I am discovering the world of possibilities that 000 or 0000 steel wool opens up when it comes to cleaning bits up.   Find it in the paint section of any major Lowe's or Home Depot type place.

[Jooky]

I am discovering the world of possibilities that 000 or 0000 steel wool opens up when it comes to cleaning bits up.   Find it in the paint section of any major Lowe's or Home Depot type place.

I may actually have some of this lying around from a gun stock I refinished a while back. I'll give it a go!

[RAFster122s]

A stainless steel brush can cut through the aluminum oxidation leaving a brushed surface,  you can then get cloth backed sandpaper or emery cloth to sand it like buffing a shoe with a rag. Work your way up to at least 400 grit and if you want high polish you will need to remove the forks from the trees to use a buffer on them after sanding any scratches out with progressing up to 1000.

David

[Jooky]

Well no polishing work has been accomplished....yet, but I have managed to re-plumb the front brake with new upper and lower hoses and a new switch. In doing so, I noticed this clip, but I have no idea what it is used for:

The front brake system was previously taken off the bike, so I have no idea if this is even in it's original location. Can anyone tell me what this is for?

Also, I have components to rebuild the front caliper (piston and seal), but there is some crud in the channel that the seal fits into. I don't want to mar the mating surface, so any tips on cleaning this thoroughly or any feedback on how this looks (salvageable?).

[flatlander]

that clip looks like the one holding the electrical wires. but on my 550F it's not on that switch but on the fork bridge:

[calj737]

Green ScotchBrite pads work really well on cleaning the aluminum cast parts. That seal groove needs to be spotless