Topic: Ignition Coil Issues

[BlueRidgeHonda]

Hey all,

I have a 1976 550 with some '75 parts that I have been building for a few months now.
The issue I'm having is how to get my ignition timing set properly.
I ordered new points and condensers. I checked all the ground wires and power from my ignition and it looks good. However, once I connect the wires from the ignition coils to the alternator/stator wires, there is no power (my test light won't come on when contacting that connection).
I have read about potentially having the polarity wrong with the coils and wiring them incorrectly (this is over my head) so I will show ya'll what I have so far.

I'm getting a solid ground though the points on the ignition timing plate but no matter where I turn/rotate the crank shaft, there is no power.
I know this is confusing so I will post a couple pictures that will hopefully help out! Any advice would be appreciated!

Thanks.

[BlueRidgeHonda]

Ignition Coils

[Deltarider]

Hey all,

I have a 1976 550 with some '75 parts that I have been building for a few months now.
The issue I'm having is how to get my ignition timing set properly.
I ordered new points and condensers. I checked all the ground wires and power from my ignition and it looks good. However, once I connect the wires from the ignition coils to the alternator/stator wires, there is no power (my test light won't come on when contacting that connection).
I have read about potentially having the polarity wrong with the coils and wiring them incorrectly (this is over my head) so I will show ya'll what I have so far.

I'm getting a solid ground though the points on the ignition timing plate but no matter where I turn/rotate the crank shaft, there is no power.
I know this is confusing so I will post a couple pictures that will hopefully help out! Any advice would be appreciated!

Thanks.

I don't know what you mean by connecting to the stator/alternator. The connections are very simple: the black/wire coming from the killswitch is to power the coils (originally it has a twin female connector), so connect to this to both black/white wires at the coils (= coils+). Blue and yellow wires from the coils (= coils NEG) are to be connected to the blue and yellow wires that go to the breakerpoints. That's it. Don't forget to check the killswitch is in RUN position. Turn the ignition switch key to ON and if you now pry open one of the points by hand your testlamp should light up*. You may feel it! And maybe hear a little crack indicating the sparkplugs are firing. If not, check main fuse. If your testlamp lights when you open the points by hand, but not when you rotate the crank, it indicates breakerpoints remain closed during the full rotation and that they need adjustment. Another possible cause is that the forked connectors at the back of the breakerpoints accidentely contact the baseplate making ground. Check this. Especially the 2.3 breakerpoint (see pic). What manual do you have?
* How did you connect your testlamp? One of the wires should be connected to the tiny bolt at the back of the breaker, the other to ground (= any part of the frame or engine).

[TwoTired]

Green wires on the CB550 are Frame ground/Battery neg connection.  It wouldn't power the coils.
Did you measure 12 V on that green connection?   The power is supposed to come from B/W wires routed through the Stop-Run-Stop switch in the bar control.

Cheers,

[BlueRidgeHonda]

Thanks TwoTired and Deltarider for the responses,

I have checked the wiring and corrected my mistake with the kill switch. My test light now shows that the blue and yellow ignition wires are working (they will give power to the breakpoints).
However, once I connect the blue and yellow breakerpoint wires, they spark a little and don't seem to be carrying the current of power (test light off at that connection). Maybe the current is flowing to the breakerpoints but I am grounding out somewhere else. I'm not making a ground with the forked connectors from the condensers.
Something else to note is the ignition coil brackets are hot after being on for a few minutes. I scraped the paint off of where the brackets mount so ground is good. ??

Thanks ya'll!

[HondaMan]

Thanks TwoTired and Deltarider for the responses,

I have checked the wiring and corrected my mistake with the kill switch. My test light now shows that the blue and yellow ignition wires are working (they will give power to the breakpoints).
However, once I connect the blue and yellow breakerpoint wires, they spark a little and don't seem to be carrying the current of power (test light off at that connection). Maybe the current is flowing to the breakerpoints but I am grounding out somewhere else. I'm not making a ground with the forked connectors from the condensers.
Something else to note is the ignition coil brackets are hot after being on for a few minutes. I scraped the paint off of where the brackets mount so ground is good. ??

Thanks ya'll!

"...for a few minutes..." Umm...the battery on these bikes is very small for testing purposes like this. Be sure to connect a battery charger to the battery while leaving the key ON for more than about 2 minutes. The alternator regulator will be drawing 2+ amps, the points another 2 amps, and the battery only holds about 8-10 minutes of power, total, with the lights off and key on. Use a charger of no more than 10 amps' size, too.

[TwoTired]

The test light measures voltage potential compared to ground.  When the point sets are closed and making contact the coil wires will be grounded.  A test light won't light, and the coils will be drawing current, and therefore heat up.  If you want to see voltage at the points, make sure the contacts are open.

Cheers,