Topic: 750 project

[Johnie]

You are going to need new o-rings on those fuel T's. Go to NAPA and ask for part number #727-2605. You will be good to go.

[Bert]

Looking more like a bike.

[Bert]

The plug for the ignition switch was cut off and a custom toggle switch was installed. The parts bike wiring was pretty hacked up because it had a fairing at some point. Luckily the plug was ok, and I didn't feel guilty cutting it off.... the poor harness has those pos scotch locks all over it.

The bike also had these handle bar relocation brackets.....

[Bert]

Upon further inspection, this plug isn't so good. Looks like it got hot at some point.

Seems to me I had an ignition switch burn up on a cb350 at this same connection. If I remember correctly, I jammed a dime in the plug to make the connection for it to run. Got me home!

[Bert]

The bike has this little wire bracket for a cable. The horn bracket had a bend in it, and the wire was added. It looks like the bolt is even longer to accommodate them both.

The wire isn't on the parts bike, and the bolts are the same length.

Is this supposed to be here?

Thanks in advance.
Vic

[754]

Tach cable holder.

[CycleRanger]

Is this supposed to be here?

Jump over here and grab a copy of the parts list.
http://www.honda4fun.com/materiale-documentazione-tecnica/parts-list/parts-list-cb750

[Bert]

Thank you for the link, cycleranger, I'll check it out!

Not the best seat job I've ever done.... but it's way better than it was. To bad it's about the last thing that I need! Oh well, work on what you have parts for.

[Bert]

Rigged up a brake line to a grease fitting to remove the stuck brake piston, hopefully these parts are salvageable.

[seanbarney41]

Only two things to go possibly wrong here...1.  Brake piston and/or cylinder are really severely pitted.  2. The bleeder screw breaks off and cannot be removed.

[Bert]

I'm worried about the corrosion. It's a bit rough.

[seanbarney41]

Just so you know, the first MC I ever rebuilt leaked worse than before I rebuilt it, still don't know why.  Since then I always replace.  It is often nearly as cheap and always easier to just replace with a working one.  Many here do not agree.

The caliper is stone axe simple.  Just make sure the bleeder screw comes free and the groove for piston seal must be completely free of foreign material.

[Johnie]

The groove for that piston seal is tough to clean out. I use a Dremel with brass wire wheel. Don't over do it, just get the crud out of the groove. Then check that piston real close. If it is pitted you should replace it. Bottom of the MC has one large hole and one really small hole. Be sure they are both open. One is the return hole and brake will stick if you don't open them up...especially that small one which is about the size of one strand from the wire wheel. I have never had an issue with cleaning and rebuilding the MC or caliper. Keep away from the aftermarket parts. Honda still sells the stuff you need.

[Bert]

You called it Johnie, the groove is a disaster, and the piston has little rust pits. Both bad. The master cylinder is buzzing in the cleaner now, but it looks promising for a rebuild.

[dhall57]

I have never had an issue with cleaning and rebuilding the MC or caliper.

Me neither Johnie. I've rebuilt all my 750 bikes and the ones on my 77 Wang.

[dhall57]

I have been working in my fathers old bike. He bought it new in 1973.

Being your dads it will be extra special. Congrats Bert!