Topic: CB550 Project Overhaul!

[BradyN]

Hi SOHC4.NET,

Spring is coming, or so they say (let's just ignore the foot of snow outside). It's time to get my 550 ready for the road. I started a project thread some time ago, and the members of this forum were an immense help, but because all the photobucket pictures are gone and it has been more than I year since I updated it, I decided to start a new thread.



It's kind of remarkable actually how good the bike looks in pictures, because in person I assure you it looks quite a bit more rough. I've done about all I can to patch the holes in the exhaust with JB Weld and tin flashing, but I've come to terms with the fact that its time for a new exhaust. For now, though, I'm prioritizing the things needed to get the bike road-worthy.

I sent my brake out to Goddfrey's garage to be refinished, and it is on its way back already! Very quick turn around, which I wasn't expecting.

I am going to switch to CB400F bars because I feel the current ones are a little too upright, and I like the look of the hidden wiring in the bars. I need to order new brake lines for the lower bars, does anyone have a good source for those? I was going to order from slingshot cycles, but it seems they're closed. I was going to keep the stock configuration of the brake line (1 line from Master Cylinder to the Brake light switch, then 1 line from the switch to the hard line connecting to the caliper).

Since I'm already getting a rebuilt brake and putting in new brake lines, should I go ahead a rebuild the master cylinder?

Seeing all of your projects is inspiring, and I can't wait to get this bike on the road again!

[Smudgemo]

Since I'm already getting a rebuilt brake and putting in new brake lines, should I go ahead a rebuild the master cylinder?

I think I would unless you knew for sure it was 100%.  It's your front brake and it's almost 40 years old.  I used a Honda kit and the hardest part was getting the C clip out.

[BradyN]

Since I'm already getting a rebuilt brake and putting in new brake lines, should I go ahead a rebuild the master cylinder?

I think I would unless you knew for sure it was 100%.  It's your front brake and it's almost 40 years old.  I used a Honda kit and the hardest part was getting the C clip out.

Thanks, I ordered the rebuild kit.

The brake just came back and it looks great, like it was brand new. I messed up the nuts that hold the brake rotor on and I need new ones, but the partslist on CMSNL is slightly different from my bike... The are 8mm flanged nuts on the diagram, while my bike seems to have regular nuts, and the diagram doesn't include the retaining clips that go under the nuts. Does anyone know what I'm referring to? I'll keep searching.

[flatlander]

it sounds like your nuts may have been replaced by some PO. but they are just nuts... as long as you don't do a 100% factory restore you don't need to order OEM from CMSNL.

[BradyN]

it sounds like your nuts may have been replaced by some PO. but they are just nuts... as long as you don't do a 100% factory restore you don't need to order OEM from CMSNL.

Copy that, regular nuts will work. I was able to find the part I was looking for, called "tongued washers" that each fit under 2 of the nuts to hold them on. They are available with the nuts from vintagecb750.com, but they're listed under the cb750 parts. Maybe my front wheel came from a cb750? Not sure. This is what they look like:



There's locktite on the bolts now so it should be secure, can I just exclude the "tongued washers"?

[Stev-o]

Check out Apex for brake lines...

http://www.apexbrakes.com/custom.asp


I've used nylock nuts instead of the tongued washers.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Use one of the following: togued washer, nylock bolts or locktite!

[BradyN]

Use one of the following: togued washer, nylock bolts or locktite!

Thanks. I'll skip the washers and use locktite.

Check out Apex for brake lines...

http://www.apexbrakes.com/custom.asp


I've used nylock nuts instead of the tongued washers.

I will check them out, thanks.

[BradyN]

Started it up the other day and got it nice and warm. Noticed a tiny bit of smoke from only the left-most cylinder's exhaust. Could be burning oil? Anyway, it wasn't very much.

Finally changed the oil.



Pretty dirty, probably should have changed it as soon as I got the bike.



Noticed reflective grains of metal in the oil. That doesn't seem good...



It took me close to an hour to get the filter housing clean. I need to make a trip to harbor freight and get better cleaning tools. Put it back together with a new filter and o-rings. The oil filter spring was missing its washer,  I'll have to remember to get one.

Also pulled the brake line apart, in preparation for rebuilding the master cylinder and putting new handlebars on.



I'm wondering if it might make sense to replace the brake line with a single line without the stock brake switch in the middle. I was thinking it might make routing and extra slack easier to deal with, in case I decide to change from the 400 bars to superbike bars for example. Then there's the problem of where to put the brake light switch if there's only 1 line. Maybe at the bottom between the hard line to the caliper and the end of the brake line? This is all new to me, but it's fun trying to figure it out (and overwhelming).

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Pull your clutch while you're at it.  There's a chance that some of that metallic matter is from worn clutch discs (amongst other things).

[BradyN]

I've been meaning to open the clutch cover and poke around, also to see if there's anything I can do to help the stiff, terrible clutch. I know these bikes have heavy clutches but I think mine may be especially bad. The two things I want to check are:

The clutch arm/lever is a bit corroded, maybe the seal it rides in is causing friction? Replace seal and check?

Are the clutch springs stock or a higher weight? Not sure how to tell, but putting the stock springs might help the clutch pull a bit.

Anything else to look out for?

[Stev-o]

Not sure exactly what you mean by a "heavy clutch" but my 550F certainly does not have one.

When was the last time the cable was lubed or changed??

[BradyN]

I replaced the clutch cable with a new one last year. It helped a bit. I am probably going to have to change the clutch cable again with the lower cb400 bars I just got, but it seems to me the clutch cable and lever are working correctly. The clutch adjustment screw and locking nut are extremely chewed up from the previous owner so my thought was maybe something needs replacing inside.

[BradyN]

Quick update. I started tearing into the headlight, handlebars and electrical wiring up front. I was to clean up the plate that the gauges attach to, the top triple tree and the controls.



This is the most over-engineered piece I've seen on the bike so far. The two bolts are brazed on and there's a little tab welded around the edge for some reason. I wanted to strip it and give it a quick respray, but I can't get these rubber grommets off and I'm afraid I'll break them. I doubt I'll be able to buy new ones.



Headlight removed. I hope I can get this back together, the color coding looked very clear however. Most of these connections are very clean, mostly the clear plastic covers are dirty. Im going to go through the bullet connectors and clean them up, they dont seem to need to be replaced.

I'm replacing the sealed beam with an h4 halogen.




This seat scares me. I have been dreading this. Already I'm stumped by this screw that holds the strap bracket on. I have been using an impact driver but I might just have to cut it off.

The gumtwo seat cover didn't come with any hardware, so I'll save as much of the strap bracket as I can, as well as the chrome trim that runs around the bottom edge. Any tips you may have regarding the seat would help.


I'm jealous of you guys with garages! It's tough having to lay everything out and then put it all away when you're done. Still I'm glad to have some space to work here.

[Smudgemo]

Rubber grommets are still available: CUSHION A, RR. 80105-061-000  $2.50
Just go to a place like Western Honda, find the part diagram and see if the part is available.  Hardest thing about it is figuring out where some of the parts are as the diagram name isn't always obvious.  Saving parts is great, but sometimes not worth it.

That seat screw is just stuck.  I'm having trouble seeing how an impact driver will work unless the back side is blocked against a hard surface, otherwise the pan will give enough to make it not work.  The buckle hardware is available as a repo from David Silver Spares (I think that's where I got mine.)  Be careful removing the side trim.  Those mounting posts can break off pretty easily.  Almost all of that hardware from the pan is still available and your pan doesn't look like it's in bad shape.  The seat really isn't much of an issue, but I wrapped mine in Saran wrap as suggested since the gumtwo cover is stitched and can let in water that will wreck the foam eventually.

[Smudgemo]

I think your buckle hardware will clean up nicely with some Evapo-Rust, but if you want to replace it, this is what I got (mine was pretty bad): https://www.davidsilverspares.com/CB550F-SUPER-SPORT-1976-USA/part_228000/
You might drill off the head if you just can't get it to budge and turn off the stump with a vice-grips, but soak it with PB Blaster or something first.  It's gotta let loose.

[Hasenkopf]

 All this and all i noticed was GREEN grass?    You may need a new clutch cable.... if the bike was a virgin.    sometimes the cable can swell down inside and bind in the nylon lining.

[BradyN]

Rubber grommets are still available: CUSHION A, RR. 80105-061-000  $2.50
Just go to a place like Western Honda, find the part diagram and see if the part is available.  Hardest thing about it is figuring out where some of the parts are as the diagram name isn't always obvious.  Saving parts is great, but sometimes not worth it.

That seat screw is just stuck.  I'm having trouble seeing how an impact driver will work unless the back side is blocked against a hard surface, otherwise the pan will give enough to make it not work.  The buckle hardware is available as a repo from David Silver Spares (I think that's where I got mine.)  Be careful removing the side trim.  Those mounting posts can break off pretty easily.  Almost all of that hardware from the pan is still available and your pan doesn't look like it's in bad shape.  The seat really isn't much of an issue, but I wrapped mine in Saran wrap as suggested since the gumtwo cover is stitched and can let in water that will wreck the foam eventually.

I think your buckle hardware will clean up nicely with some Evapo-Rust, but if you want to replace it, this is what I got (mine was pretty bad): https://www.davidsilverspares.com/CB550F-SUPER-SPORT-1976-USA/part_228000/
You might drill off the head if you just can't get it to budge and turn off the stump with a vice-grips, but soak it with PB Blaster or something first.  It's gotta let loose.

Thanks for the info, and the links to the parts. It's pretty amazing to me that there are so many parts available for these old bikes.

I'm lucky enough to be store my bike at my parents' place, but it makes it tough to work on. I took some pieces home to work on.



Took the block connector off the right side controls, connections look pretty good! I'm going to clean up the connectors a bit and try to route them inside the handlebars.'



I've decided not to take it apart any further. It works, and looks relatively clean in there. This piece (the right side throttle assembly) is an odd one. It doesn't fit together well at all, and there's a gap when its all sealed up.



New Hella H4 headlight reflector. I was a little disappointed how flat it is, very different from the original reflector. Might exchange this reflector for a Cibie one. I'm being a bit picky, it probably doesn't matter much. Its a ECE reflector.

I also managed to tear down the master cylinder. Wow, what a pain in the ass that was. There are two small holes in the bottom of the reservoir, but only one goes through to the piston. Does the second, tiny hole need to be cleaned somehow? Any advice on how to clean the bore? I was just going to put some steel wool in there, but I'm not sure if it is alright to scratch up the bore.