Author Topic: Chris' CL350 Cafe Racer Build (Update 09.03.07) FIRST RIDE (Read 27754 times)

chrisf · « **Reply #50 on:** April 06, 2007, 03:30:19 PM »

That was a great find, and one that really exposes my inexperience with bikes. If I can remove some bits inside the case and save weight in the process, I'll gladly do that. What you see in the picture is exactly how I left it. I'll try to sneak away tonight and pull the cover to see how difficult it is to remove.

So I should use remove the chain connected to the starter and anything that goes with it?

--Thanks again for finding this, Chris

chrisf · « **Reply #51 on:** April 06, 2007, 03:41:33 PM »

ProTeal:

Many thanks for the help. As I mentioned, I got tired of waiting for my rearsets to come, so I'm going to build my own. I just received some 1" OD knurled aluminum bike pegs that are perfect for the heal, and light too. I sent a job to a machinist to turn some 3/4" OD 6061-T6 knurled pegs for my toe. Tonight, I'm going to model my rearsets in SolidWorks to see how it all will fit together. I have it figured out in my mind, but using CAD to see how things move and spinning the part around is a huge help. Anyone have access to a water jet

When it's all said and done, I think I will be out less that $40 for everything, including rod ends. We'll see how well it works.

Next time you think about it, will you look at the kicker on your 4 cyclinder and see if it looks the same as the twin? It might be a good solution for my kick start problem.

--Thanks, Chris

Caferacingparts · « **Reply #52 on:** April 06, 2007, 04:54:11 PM »

Chris,
To remove the starter drive gear and chain you will need to remove the left engine cover with the alternator stator. You could also remove the driven gear/sprag clutch assembly from the crankshaft, but it won't hurt anything to leave it. Once the chain and sprocket(s) are removed you will still need to find a way to retain your "starter plug" assembly into the engine case. Below is a possibility. A simple metal plate that spans between the original engine case mountings and one or both of the mounts on the starter end cap should do it. Of course you will need to find another end cap and polish it since your mounts are now gone. Or you could try to find an original CL350 starter block off plug to fill the large hole in the engine case. Someone here probably has a parts book with the correct part number.

Cheers, Bret @ Glass from the Past
971-207-2824
www.caferacingparts.com

CBGBs · « **Reply #53 on:** April 06, 2007, 06:34:50 PM »

Ooooh, Chris.....

Yeah, you gots to remove that stuff.

chrisf · « **Reply #54 on:** April 06, 2007, 07:18:15 PM »

CBGBs: Thanks

Could I not just run a couple of 4mm bolt through the guts to hold it in place? Depending on how thick it is, I could evenm tap it.

But if I leave it as-is, will oil pressure blow it off?

--Chris

CBGBs · « **Reply #55 on:** April 07, 2007, 04:35:22 AM »

I don't think there is alot of pressure there, but there isn't really anything holding the plug in. I would say the bracket of the compression plug is the way to go.

chrisf · « **Reply #56 on:** April 10, 2007, 07:59:49 PM »

I still haven't messed around with the starter yet, but will get that sorted soon.

Below is a picture of the materials I will use for my rearsets. 1" aluminum heal pegs, 3/4" custom knurled toe pegs and 1/4" aluminum plate. Solidworks decided to go crazy on me, so I have a 3D model of my stuff, but the dimensions are all off. In the end, I just did a 2D drawing of the part.

I should have a CB750 kick starter next week. Hopefully, 1.) I win the auction and 2.) the splines with match up. Assuming the do match, I'll chop it up and make the swing go way out over the foot controls.

BTW, does anyone run a race shift setup? It seems more logical, and since I've never really ridden a bike, it might make more sense. Of course, there is always the risk of misshifting on someone else's bike...

ProTeal55 · « **Reply #57 on:** April 10, 2007, 09:39:55 PM »

Look at you with all your high tech parts

Kidding aside I cant wait to see your finished product

chrisf · « **Reply #58 on:** April 11, 2007, 05:48:54 AM »

I have enough 6061-T6 plate for two sets or one screw-up and one proper set. I've tapped every shoulder I know and still cannot find a water jet cutter for a reasonable price. It would have been nice to hand a DXF file off to the cutter and have a nice, perfectly cut piece back. CNC stuff is just too easy. But alas, looks like I will be making it with what I have. My only concern is that I won't be able to make the rearsets to the standard to which I demand. Time will tell.

Of course, I could always lay down $50-$150 for a set of stock sport bike rearsets, but those prices really are crazy for what you get. Plus, I cannot see a way to impliment them without some pretty heavy fabrication, so I figured, why bother?

Sadly, life just keeps getting in the way of bike fabrication. Hopefully, I get it done before the end of summer!

--Chris

cben750f0 · « **Reply #59 on:** April 11, 2007, 03:50:12 PM »

looking good chris, just a question, is there any reason why you couldnt have a couple of small plates made with a hole in the centre, then remove the starter drive out of the sart end plate that you have in the motor, the put one plate in there, and the other inside the motor, then use a bolt and a nyloc to pull the engine case and the starter end plate together, 'sandwich' them you wouldnt have to worry about them commin apart, and if you put a gasket under one of the plates, you wouldnt have to worry about oil leaks.... will try to make a picture to show what i mean....

peace

chrisf · « **Reply #60 on:** April 12, 2007, 05:51:47 PM »

OK, so I had to "Work from Home" today while the AT&T techs installed fiber in my house. Who knew they would knock out my Internet and phone AND use my PC all day

I want to go spend time with my kids, so I'll just post pics. Go to the website for the descriptions...

--Enjoy! Chris

CBGBs · « **Reply #61 on:** April 12, 2007, 07:08:45 PM »

Wow, Chris! I like the single gauge look. Nice mount. Hows that seat coming?

chrisf · « **Reply #62 on:** April 13, 2007, 03:47:58 PM »

Quote

Hows that seat coming?

Well, I originally planned on painting the headlight tank and seat Brittish racing green. But that seat will talk a lot of body work that I just don't feel like doing. So, the new plan is to get the tank aluminum ceramic coated. It's that dull, semi shiny stuff people put on mild steel headers and turbos to keep the heat in. The nice thing is that the aluminum content is so high that it can polish up like real aluminum.

Here: http://www.hpcoatings.com/products/appearance.aspx I'm going with the HyperCoat high luster

For the seat, I'm going to cover it in charcoal suede. My mom is coming into town this weekend and may sew it for me. Thing is, she doesn't really have an eye for detail. We'll see.

I'm pretty excited because once I get the rearsets done, I can begin tearing everything down for chassis paint and final build-up.

--Cheers, Chris

chrisf · « **Reply #63 on:** April 17, 2007, 07:02:22 PM »

Here are some more pics. I put the description on my website.

Fee free to post some comments!

--Thanks, Chris

doug_id · « **Reply #64 on:** April 18, 2007, 05:01:37 AM »

Those rearsets are looking nice.

Doug

ProTeal55 · « **Reply #65 on:** April 18, 2007, 07:04:59 AM »

Love the rearsets and especially the solo gauge setup !
Looking tight !

chrisf · « **Reply #66 on:** April 20, 2007, 05:41:31 AM »

Here are some more pics. Descriptions are on the website...

Chris

andy750 · « **Reply #67 on:** April 20, 2007, 08:03:38 AM »

Hey Chris, I really like how the exhaust is turning out and very clean industrial look on the triple tree. I think the aluminium effect is looking good. The only thing I would change if I could (which being mechanically inept I have no chance) would be to somehow lower the tach which looks good from the top but does stick out a bit when viewed side on. Just my personal preference and not sure if its even possible but thought id mention it in any case - its not like you have dont have enough to do!! Anyway looking great and keep the updates coming.

cheers
Andy

chrisf · « **Reply #68 on:** April 20, 2007, 08:29:52 AM »

Hi Andy:

Thanks for the reply. You're spot on regarding the tach. It will do OK for now, but I'm trying to figure out if a lower-profile gauge from a different model (i.e. from one of the fours) will work. Hopefully they will because the guage needs some help.

--Chris

ProTeal55 · « **Reply #69 on:** April 20, 2007, 08:36:01 AM »

What are the plans for the exhaust ?
Wrap - Ceramic coat - Paint - Caps - Etc ?

bill440cars · « **Reply #70 on:** April 20, 2007, 10:41:24 AM »

Hey Chris,

Looking Good there guy. Keep up the good work and keep us posted!

Later on, Bill

chrisf · « **Reply #71 on:** April 20, 2007, 11:20:17 AM »

Quote

What are the plans for the exhaust ?
Wrap - Ceramic coat - Paint - Caps - Etc ?

I don't know for sure. Right now, I want to use that new copper-colored wrap that is supposed to be much more efficient than the black/white wrap. Thing is, it might look bad with the polished alloy-looking tank. When I get the tank back, I'll know for sure. If it looks bad, I'll just go with the standard black stuff.

The other plan is to do an individual wrap until the pipes meet. Then do a single wrap back to the tips. Doing copper caps would be cool, but it's kinda been done before

I grew up on Oklahoma, then moved to TX after college. I'm thinking in my head how to do a cool logo with OK involved. I'm thinking of doing an art deco Hermes helmet with the wings forming the panhandle of OK. It's hard to explain. I need to get a graphic artist involved. I'm also going to brand the bike as 'MotoFiaccone Specials'. Not real original, I know, but I have to work my last name in somehow. When I do this, the Honda identity will be erased off the bike. Sure, everyone will know what it is, but it really will be mine.

--Chris

mgmuellner · « **Reply #72 on:** April 20, 2007, 04:41:41 PM »

Quote from: chrisf on April 20, 2007, 08:29:52 AM

Hi Andy:

Thanks for the reply. You're spot on regarding the tach. It will do OK for now, but I'm trying to figure out if a lower-profile gauge from a different model (i.e. from one of the fours) will work. Hopefully they will because the guage needs some help.

--Chris

Nice pics & work. Have you considered angling the tach instead of lowering? I think it'd look more deliberate & maybe be easier to read.

One question on the rear sets - sitting on the bike are they in that position relatively comfortable? I was considering using the same plate like you did, but 1/2 way in & dont want to go too conservative.

chrisf · « **Reply #73 on:** May 07, 2007, 01:14:35 PM »

I haven't worked on my bike in a long time because I've been getting my car ready for this:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3361397402239984364

It's my brothing driving in that video, but you get the idea. I cut his video first because he needed it for MySpace.

My leather arrived, so hopefully I'll have my seat dome this weekend.

--Chris

CBGBs · « **Reply #74 on:** May 11, 2007, 07:02:01 PM »

Check out this link to a CB350 project. Wow! Good work kids.
http://niskygarage.logical.net/index.htmlooo

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Author Topic: Chris' CL350 Cafe Racer Build (Update 09.03.07) FIRST RIDE (Read 27754 times)

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