Topic: Spare Change- First Bike

[Dads Toy]

The spring washer is least of the problems you can have get a few engine covers off the crankcase and see what you have, ?... till then don't buy a battery ..
 I have had a Nighthawk that I gave the motor away from, once I realized it had water in it, the damage was done,

I agree, will try and get the covers off and see what we have.

[kpier883]

Perhaps the water got in there when you washed the bike at the car wash.  One can hope...

[Dads Toy]

I was able to spend time in the cold garage last night. But was able to heat it up a bet before I got to a part where gas fumes were involved. Manage to remove the carbs and check out a few other things. Remove side covers and top rock covers. Everything looks great and no signs of water or rust. Engine looks new. As I was checking things out I removed the fuse cover and found a loose screw just setting in there. Like what the heck is that for and why is a loose screw just setting there. Could have shorted out the block.
Got the battery holder out. It is a little worn and needs some attention. I would think the damage is caused by the battery leaking acid on it. Was able to clean up the Pulse generator. Looks good and as far as I can tell no shorts with multi meter. No the bad. The ignition modules must had gotten hot and the insulator melted all over the air box. Not sure it these are any good. Or should I go ahead and replace them with new upgraded stuff. Is there a way to test these? http://www.electrosport.com/street-bikes/honda/cb900c-custom-80-82/igniter-honda-cb650-1100cx500-650gl1100.html
Removed the starter solenoid and someone had used a couple of strands of wire for the fuse. There is suppose to be a F Type 30amp fuse in there. Guess you have to use what you got to make it work. But it's only a $1.98....replace it for man kind.
Next will be cleaning the carbs. Oh and that air box was no joke getting it out. Might consider replacing it with the cone filters then having to deal with that box again. Here are some pictures for your entertainment.
   

[754]

That is quite a bit of rust on the crank bolt, got a pic of the underneath the cover behind it.

[Stev-o]

The pain of putting the box back in (really not bad) is worth it in saving time and hassle rejecting your carbs to get get it to run good.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Let me know if you end up wanting to replace the existing CDI boxes. I have two spare new ones from Rick's.

[Dads Toy]

You guys are going to love this one.
So got the carb set off and started to get this cleaned up. When I opened up the float bowls I couldn't believe what I found. This what happens when you leave Ethanol gas in an engine. It turned to sugar and plugged up every opening. I cleaned up the original set that I took off the best I could. Got down to the last carb and was installing the float pin. The mounting post broke... I had work so hard getting to this point and was ready to call it the night. So I still had the other set of carbs the guy gave me when I bought the bike. So I broke it open and it is in much better shape. The only problem I had, I couldn't get the throttle to open up. After some penetrating oil and elbow grease I managed to get them free up and moving. Have to say this set is much better than the one that came off the bike. So Carb cleaning done and I think these will work just fine. Will fill the bowls up with gas to make sure I don't have any leaks. Better to do this with it off the bike then to take it all off again.
New choke cable came in the mail today. Fits and was a good find for $9. Bike is still paid for and free.
Tested the Ignition Control Modules. Now in search of cheap parts again. Wish there was a pick pull lot for motorcycles near bye. I PPL all my parts for my cars this way. Save a lot of cash and its a good time to spend outdoors. I found these same ones on Amazon for around $59. http://www.electrosport.com/street-bikes/honda/cb900c-custom-80-82/igniter-honda-cb650-1100cx500-650gl1100.html
But I think I can still find them cheaper, I hope.
Thanks all for the input, this SOHC4 forum has been great. Learning as I go. Oh...On the new set of cars it didn't have this vacuum connection that was on the bike set. Is it needed and where does it go? I couldn't find any pictures on the shop manual showing this. Its on the primary carb and I would think it would go to the air box.     
 

[MoMo]

That carb is as bad as I've ever seen.  Keep on truckin'...Larry

[Dads Toy]

That carb is as bad as I've ever seen.  Keep on truckin'...Larry

Even though I cleaned it I don't think it would have ran very good with that set of carbs. Just glad I had the other set. So took parts off one set to make a complete setup that should work. Bench set the balance. Just see how it goes. Next have to get a thin wall spark plug socket so I can get two and three plugs out. Have to score on a set of Ignition modules and a battery. If I can hear it run with no issues I know I have a good base to work with. Then I'll be happy and move forward with other issue. At times I just want to give up. But I think it still has good bones for a making of something great. I've seen and read other stories of bikes worst off than mine and come out looking awesome.

[DV Red Herring]

Don't give up on it. You've made good progress already. Next thing you know, it'll be running. I know I've felt that way about mine before.

[MoMo]

The stock tool kit spark plug socket  has as good usage as any aftermarket...Larry

[Dads Toy]

Before I put these carbs back on. They where mounted with just a one big hose clamp on each carb. Wanted to know if anyone has a trick on using a different band to hold the boot on to the engine side and carb side. I found the original banding clamps. But wow $10 a piece and I need 16 of them. That would be half of what I paid for the whole bike.
Part no. 17255-426-000 or 95018-46250
Any ideas
What would be the bore size of these carbs. 44-48mm?

[DV Red Herring]

I'm not sure about the size you need. I use these on mine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036R4UDC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[DV Red Herring]

Good quality.

[754]

Carbs are probably 26 or 28mm..

[Dads Toy]

I'm not sure about the size you need. I use these on mine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036R4UDC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now that's what I am talking about. Bam.... that will work. I knew someone had to come across this issue before and found an alterative to the stock bands. Best I could find on using the stock bands was 4 of them for $14. Thanks for the info.

[Stev-o]

I'm not sure about the size you need. I use these on mine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036R4UDC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

+1...I've used these too.

[DV Red Herring]

I'm not sure about the size you need. I use these on mine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036R4UDC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

+1...I've used these too.

I'm pretty sure I read a post where you recommended them. Haha. They work great!!!

[DV Red Herring]

I'm not sure about the size you need. I use these on mine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036R4UDC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now that's what I am talking about. Bam.... that will work. I knew someone had to come across this issue before and found an alterative to the stock bands. Best I could find on using the stock bands was 4 of them for $14. Thanks for the info.

No problem. Glad to pay forward the info that was given to me.

[Stev-o]

I'm not sure about the size you need. I use these on mine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036R4UDC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

+1...I've used these too.

I'm pretty sure I read a post where you recommended them. Haha. They work great!!!

Ha!  One good recommendation deserves another.....

[Dads Toy]

Thanks for the info and recommendation on the clamps. Have a package on its way. I'll use these on the engine side of the carbs.
Need your help.
    So I put gas into the carb set to check for leaks. I think I am missing some hoses. Is there supposed to be a T-fitting in between carb 1&2 and 3&4 and they all connect to each other. I can't find any clear pictures or diagrams in any manual on this. I have a area circle in Red where gas was coming out. Don't know if I over filled them or is it because I missing something. Click on the picture to enlarge it.

[Dads Toy]

So you can see someone tried to use a piece of copper wire to replace the 30amp starter fuse. So I was trying to figure out how to replace this mess. This F type fuse is hard to find and its not at your local parts store. So I came up with an idea to use an ATO fuse. Made all the connections and was thinking about cutting the fuse door so it would close and be able to lock the plug back into place. Was cleaning the little box out when a spare fuse slide out. Like OMG really...This guy didn't know there was a spare fuse he could have used instead of the copper wire. I am not much better. But hey this is my first motorcycle. Do you think my idea of using the ATO fuse would work? Has anyone done this setup before.
Oh and you can see my Spare Change jar in the back ground. Need to fill it back up. 
That is also my spark plug wrench that doesn't work with a darn. Need to find a socket that will fit so I can take out number 2 and 3 spark plugs.

[MoMo]

Never actually seen one other than online but it looks as though the Motion Pro 18mm socket would work, about 18$ or so.  Seems like it would be a good substitute for OEM...Larry

[BobbyR]

They sell these cheap socket for removing sparkplugs on lawnmowers etc. If you can find the proper size they should work. Long and thin walled is the key.   

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I've used ATO/ATC blade fuse blocks on a couple of my bikes.  You can buy a 6 fuse model and carry 2 extra fuses in the unused "channels."