Author Topic: Wheel alignment (offset from each other) question (Read 14193 times)

Yamahawk · « **Reply #25 on:** January 28, 2018, 05:51:20 AM »

How old is your current rear sprocket, and is it worn at all? You might find that purchasing a new sprocket for your bike and using your old one, cut down, may be an alternative if it is old already. Look for wear of your teeth.
Charlie

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #26 on:** January 28, 2018, 05:52:43 AM »

Sprocket is new

Yamahawk · « **Reply #27 on:** January 28, 2018, 05:58:50 AM »

I can look at Pat's shop on Thursday, see if he has a junk one on an old CB550 wheel, if you want... that is, if nobody here has one to send you!
Charlie

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #28 on:** January 28, 2018, 07:25:43 AM »

If you have the time that would be cool, thanks Charlie

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #29 on:** January 28, 2018, 07:55:57 AM »

I think I got one around somewhere...I will try to look today

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #30 on:** January 28, 2018, 09:58:01 AM »

Cool, thanks Sean

Don R · « **Reply #31 on:** January 28, 2018, 11:40:18 AM »

My thought is, if the two wheels are lined up in a straight line does the rest of the bike care if other things aren't pointed straight ahead? Granted, the chain line should be pretty good and the frame/forks shouldn't be in a twist.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #32 on:** January 28, 2018, 02:21:51 PM »

Looks like Cal's to the rescue again.

And Don, yeah I somewhat agree. But if the wheel's centerline is 2" to the right of the center of gravity of the bike, would that make things handle differently? No idea.

tlbranth · « **Reply #33 on:** January 28, 2018, 04:56:27 PM »

If the forks weren't at their center point, I'm betting you'd have an exciting wobble at some speeds.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #34 on:** January 28, 2018, 06:36:23 PM »

Yeah I want excitement on my terms when it comes to motorcycle riding. Not a bike induced quick low side or speed wobble at 70mph.

That being said, forks are centered and front wheel is only off by a couple millimeters.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #35 on:** January 28, 2018, 06:40:06 PM »

Dave, I was in and out of my shop several times today and still forgot to go digging for that sprocket...maybe get another chance later this week?

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #36 on:** January 29, 2018, 02:20:05 AM »

I posted in the wanted section and Cal's going to shoot one over for me. If it doesn't come since he's a lying bastard I'll let you know

Thanks for the effort, haha!

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #37 on:** February 03, 2018, 12:35:25 PM »

Got the sprocket from Cal and yes I need to replace the studs with longer ones. How do these studs come out? I have a vise grip and the one I'm working on is spinning out but it seems to be hung up. It came out a few threads but now it's very tough and the pliers are beginning to spin on the stud. There isn't a head on the other side, right? Should just spin out after a few profanities?

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #38 on:** February 03, 2018, 12:37:34 PM »

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #39 on:** February 03, 2018, 12:55:35 PM »

Ok never mind, I got a different one out. That first one is just stubborn. I'll keep at it.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #40 on:** February 03, 2018, 01:16:07 PM »

Jeepers creepers, this isn't fun any more.

Yamahawk · « **Reply #41 on:** February 03, 2018, 01:47:29 PM »

Try one of these, as the stud looks a lot like an exhaust stud from my RD350 lol... And replace the studs with bolts! Make sure they are proper grade bolts, and not allens unless you have clearance for the head.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/KATONAH-TOOLS-1-2-Drive-Stud-Extractor-Puller-Remover-Mechanic-Tool-Truck-Car/160863034268?hash=item25742f1b9c:g:Y0YAAOSw3mpXN1zd

Charlie

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #42 on:** February 03, 2018, 02:04:53 PM »

I refuse to buy a tool to remove these, haha. I'll drill them out after welding on another nut. And just for clearance I'm going with studs.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #43 on:** February 03, 2018, 02:52:48 PM »

I did have to get bolts, studs of the grade, length and pitch I need are hard to find.

Yamahawk · « **Reply #44 on:** February 03, 2018, 03:50:24 PM »

Yeah, the bolts are readily available, studs maybe not... regular hardened hex bolts will give you the clearance a nut on a stud should.
Charlie

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #45 on:** February 04, 2018, 10:50:54 AM »

Holy mackerel got them out with just vise grips but man, that one was tough. I just used a dremel and made two flats for the vise grips to get a hold of. I also did a bit of research and a lot of times on studs, the threads that get inserted into the part are machined a hair larger to be more of a friction fit to reduce the possibility of removal when removing the nut. Interesting.

Yamahawk · « **Reply #46 on:** February 05, 2018, 04:08:46 AM »

I have found Loctite used on many studs and bolts on rear sprockets. They don't like them coming loose

I have had to heat them to release the Loctite. Yours, however, don't seem to have any residue from Loctite in the threads.
Charlie

calj737 · « **Reply #47 on:** February 05, 2018, 05:56:31 AM »

DAVE - Next time, double-nut them and you won't have so many issues.

Or go straight to the welded on nut.

Yamahawk · « **Reply #48 on:** February 05, 2018, 06:21:06 AM »

heh he did.. and twisted the nut and stud off...

Charlie

calj737 · « **Reply #49 on:** February 05, 2018, 06:28:15 AM »

Quote from: Yamahawk on February 05, 2018, 06:21:06 AM

heh he did.. and twisted the nut and stud off...
Charlie

No, he welded a single nut on, then twisted that off. He attempted to turn them out with Vise Grips, then welded a nut. Next time, double-nut first. It puts the torque lower and closer to the stud. If that fails, weld the nut. BUT LET IT COOL before you twist it. Welding the nut on de-tempers the stud, making it soft and susceptible to shearing.

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Author Topic: Wheel alignment (offset from each other) question (Read 14193 times)