Author Topic: Chrome Spin on oil filter cb550 (Read 2618 times)

WolfRider · « **on:** January 09, 2018, 03:13:55 PM »

First post. Tried to search for similar thread but couldn't find a real solution or explanation.

Recently bought a 77 CB550 K3. Drove it home, no problem. Wanted to change the oil asap. The owner before had a chrome spin on oil filter so I reused it when I filled the bike with new oil. Now it leaks. It leaks more when I run the engine. Bought a new filter thinking maybe the were some cracks in the o-ring. Nope, same problem. I will get one of those adapters so you can screw on any kind of oil filter but want this to work first.

calj737 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 10, 2018, 02:14:44 AM »

Easier to replace with a stock housing, oil seal and internal spring. A chrome housing in that location is bound to get thrashed by road grime/debris and be problematic for sealing (as you discovered).

strynboen · « **Reply #2 on:** January 10, 2018, 03:42:11 AM »

there is a o ring behind the adapter./engine.thek if you have loosen up the senter bolt..ot also make it leaking...

b1jackson · « **Reply #3 on:** January 10, 2018, 05:08:19 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on January 10, 2018, 02:14:44 AM

Easier to replace with a stock housing, oil seal and internal spring. A chrome housing in that location is bound to get thrashed by road grime/debris and be problematic for sealing (as you discovered).

Yep. This is what I had to do. The PO put a fancy looking chrome one on and to stop the leak (I assume) cranked the filter on mega tight. I had to mangle it to get it off and simply went back to stock.

WolfRider · « **Reply #4 on:** January 10, 2018, 08:55:53 AM »

Thanks everyone. Yeah, I should buy the stock housing. Haven't been on the road for a while because of this

Best place to buy is ebay I guess?

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #5 on:** January 10, 2018, 10:13:06 AM »

OK, when you say spin on are you saying that the stock housing, which is held in place by a single bolt with an open filter inside, has been replaced with an adapter that allows the use of a car style spin on filter?

Leaking from where? Where the filter contacts the adapter or the adapter where it mounts to the front of the case?

I had a spin on adapter on my GL1000, which uses the exact same stock filter setup as an SOHC4 (I kept the adapter when I sold the GL and it is currently installed on my roller 550). I rode through plenty of rain and gunk and never had leaking issues.

Chrome vs painted shouldn't make any difference at all. The portion that seals to the adapter is identical no matter how the outside of the filter canister is painted or chromed.

WolfRider · « **Reply #6 on:** January 10, 2018, 11:53:28 AM »

As you can see, its leaking at the very bottom. The 2nd image is the old spin on oil filter. Maybe I'm missing a part from the stock housing?

jlh3rd · « **Reply #7 on:** January 10, 2018, 12:14:26 PM »

?..is that o ring mishapened or twisted or something? It doesn’t look right. Maybe it’s just the picture ?

WolfRider · « **Reply #8 on:** January 10, 2018, 12:19:25 PM »

O-ring is fine. Just oil on it so it looks weird in the picture.

TwoTired · « **Reply #9 on:** January 10, 2018, 03:58:30 PM »

FYI, The stock filter mounts with a pressure relief bypass valve in the center bolt set to a pressure deemed proper by Honda.

Spin on filters also have a bypass valve in case the filter clogs, is set to who knows what pressure, and often has an additional anti drainback valve, intended to hold the oil in the galleys for the next start up.

If the bypass valve is installed incorrectly, it can be open for the duration, which bypasses all filtration. If the drainback valve doesn't seal properly, the oil galleys can be dry for the next start up. (probably more important for autos, rather than the SOHC4.)

Certain spin on filter designs are engineered better to ensure the valves are working properly. A bit of errant glue or mis-positioned valve components during assembly can render the valves inoperative.

You will never know if it is working properly unless you inspect it by disassembly... which renders the filter unusable.

I'll stick to the stock filter and replace the filter element as needed. It isn't any messier than if you have to cut open a spin on filter to see if it has been working correctly since the last replacement cycle.

Like I said, FYI.

Cheers,

carnivorous chicken · « **Reply #10 on:** January 10, 2018, 04:02:34 PM »

Already good answers so far, including advice to go back to stock, but really it's one of four things: bad o-ring, misshapen filter where it meets the engine, damage to the engine where the filter bolts up, or damage to the filter somewhere other than where it meets the engine case (e.g. a hole in it). I suppose the fifth option could be that the filter is simply incorrect for the application, but again, see the "going back to stock" comments -- and if you do, look for the mounting bolt with the bigger head -- it won't strip as easily!

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #11 on:** January 10, 2018, 05:40:42 PM »

The system I have is an actual adapter plate that attaches to the case rather than just an adapter bolt that screws into the filter.

Like this https://www.randakks.com/standard-oil-filter-conversion-kit-version-a-see-fitment-chart.html

WolfRider · « **Reply #12 on:** January 10, 2018, 07:15:18 PM »

Quote from: Bankerdanny on January 10, 2018, 05:40:42 PM

The system I have is an actual adapter plate that attaches to the case rather than just an adapter bolt that screws into the filter.

Like this https://www.randakks.com/standard-oil-filter-conversion-kit-version-a-see-fitment-chart.html

Yup, getting one of those from a friend hopefully soon. Then any oil filter would do, correct? Any suggestions of which filter?

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #13 on:** January 11, 2018, 07:06:02 AM »

Quote from: WolfRider on January 10, 2018, 07:15:18 PM

Quote from: Bankerdanny on January 10, 2018, 05:40:42 PM
The system I have is an actual adapter plate that attaches to the case rather than just an adapter bolt that screws into the filter.

Like this https://www.randakks.com/standard-oil-filter-conversion-kit-version-a-see-fitment-chart.html

Yup, getting one of those from a friend hopefully soon. Then any oil filter would do, correct? Any suggestions of which filter?

This is the one Randaak recommends on his site, I used it to cross-reference various options: CarQuest 85348 (Blue Box premium model made by WIX...same as WIX 51348)

I have always used a Bosch 3330 filter because it is all black with very faint lettering and so stands out less.

WolfRider · « **Reply #14 on:** January 24, 2018, 05:13:15 PM »

No more oil filter problems. Thanks everyone!

Yamahawk · « **Reply #15 on:** January 24, 2018, 05:22:01 PM »

Quote from: WolfRider on January 24, 2018, 05:13:15 PM

No more oil filter problems. Thanks everyone!

Hey Cool!
Well.... maybe One more filter problem.. is that a Fram filter...?

Truthfully, I would only use a Fram in case of emergency and no other filters available... use the WIX or the NAPA equivalent. They are much better filters.
Charlie

TwoTired · « **Reply #16 on:** January 24, 2018, 06:28:31 PM »

Quote from: Yamahawk on January 24, 2018, 05:22:01 PM

Hey Cool!
Well.... maybe One more filter problem.. is that a Fram filter...?
Truthfully, I would only use a Fram in case of emergency and no other filters available... use the WIX or the NAPA equivalent. They are much better filters.
Charlie

+1
These are the very filters that have poor quality control issues with the internal bypass valve and anti drainback valve installation.

I only buy fram filters where you can see the element and construction quality. The filter media itself is good. The working design of the spin-ons is highly suspect. Personally I don't want want cardboard circulating inside my engine.

http://www.austincc.edu/wkibbe/oilfilterstudy.htm

WolfRider · « **Reply #17 on:** January 25, 2018, 03:57:22 PM »

It's a Fram ph2951. I will use it for now and later replace with a better one. Still have more work on bike. Damn cam chain nut is stuck and tried pd blaster, wd 40 and what else I can find to get it loose but nut is not going anywhere.

strynboen · « **Reply #18 on:** January 26, 2018, 02:52:34 AM »

dont turn it..tru to move it inn.carefull hammer it use a vood stick..and only a few milimeters inn..lube vell and pull it aut.

.and do it to it moves free.

.and then turn the threddet part to see if the mekanism still vorks..be very carefull .

.it can be overturned easy..read the instruktions ..and find the tensioner adjusting thread, for 500 and 550..

.så you have the right idea of how it vorks...its a strange system..and hard to get tuned right...so please read up..and safe a lot of problems

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Author Topic: Chrome Spin on oil filter cb550 (Read 2618 times)