Author Topic: 350F carbs  (Read 1372 times)

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Offline Badger

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350F carbs
« on: January 25, 2018, 08:03:43 AM »
Greetings:

Thanks to forum feedback I will soon be shipping the 350F carb bank to Oldskoolcarbs for rebuild/sync.  I'm thinking that when they get back
just mount to engine, reconnect everything, gas it up  and it should start.  Of course nothing is ever easy.

What are your experiences with something like this?
1973 CB 350 Four
2014 Harley Davidson Electra Glide Limited with the wethead

Offline robvangulik

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Re: 350F carbs
« Reply #1 on: January 25, 2018, 11:05:01 AM »
I've had someone else rebuild  carbs for one of MY bikes, I think that is an easy way to spend a lot of money...
And prper synchtonising has to be done on the bike.

Offline crazypj

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Re: 350F carbs
« Reply #2 on: January 25, 2018, 11:09:57 AM »
It will probably start but that is just the beginning.
As mentioned, the minimum you will need to do is carb sync and set fuel screws. You will need to do 'plug chops' to check jetting plus may need to adjust float level for 'modern' fuel
I fake being smart pretty good
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'

Offline Badger

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Re: 350F carbs
« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2018, 10:02:13 AM »
Well, shoot...

The issue is way up north where I live nobody works on vintage Japanese bikes.  I don't have the tools to sync carbs or the cash to buy them having spent the budget on getting the 350F...  It runs good enough as is so looks like it will stay that way,

So what good is a bench sync if you have to do it again on the bike?
1973 CB 350 Four
2014 Harley Davidson Electra Glide Limited with the wethead

Offline crazypj

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Re: 350F carbs
« Reply #4 on: January 26, 2018, 10:14:52 AM »
There are instructions all over the internet how to make and use 'manometers'
You can use 8mm wrench and flat screwdriver on adjusters
350 has 'standard' size vacuum ports (5mm) so you only need some brass tube or even 1/16" holes down 5mm bolts.
I fake being smart pretty good
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'

Offline TwoTired

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Re: 350F carbs
« Reply #5 on: January 26, 2018, 10:28:27 AM »
Aren't the carb sync manometers cheaper than paying for a carb bank rebuild?

Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline WhyNot2

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Re: 350F carbs
« Reply #6 on: January 26, 2018, 11:04:29 AM »
I really think you could do the rebuild, and the rest, just follow the book, and making one of those manometers seems simple enuf.

I did the removal, rebuild and reinstall, and never messed with one of these bikes b4.

Course you can't listen to me, cause I did that back in 2012 (dayyum 5 years) and I got it running, got excited with a hundred dollar 750, and never looked back........but I'm gonna pull it back out now that I have a brand new Delkevic exhaust on it, and try it again
If it ain't raining, I'm riding.....~~{iii}?~~prost

If it sounds like I know what I'm talking about, it's because I cut and pasted from someone else.

Offline Flyin900

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Re: 350F carbs
« Reply #7 on: January 26, 2018, 12:38:12 PM »
If you send them out they will be rebuilt correctly and bench synced and as you noted they will run well and be fine from that rebuilder. As long as your motor is healthy. Ie good even compression and timed correctly along with your valves adjusted too.

I am a Canadian rebuilder and when I send carbs back they are plug and play and Oldschool is a respected carb rebuilder. There are lots to cleaning beyond just the jets and if you are not an experienced rebuilder I disagree that you can do it yourself as well as a pro rebuilder.
A proper rebuild entails totally breaking down the bank to individual units and fully taking each carb down to just the body. Few guys are capable of doing that correctly and getting them back together and working properly.

If you are running an air box and stock style exhaust the air mix screws will be set to factory specs and will be very close. The vacuum sync usually helps adjust for minor differences in each cylinder, yet it isn't critical.

It's more important to set your valves correctly to spec and have your timing adjusted with a timing light ( regular automotive zenon type) and good even compression within factory specs. Cam chain adjusted is also good to do and these are all pretty simple procedures that you can do while the carbs are out, or when they come back.
« Last Edit: January 26, 2018, 06:59:21 PM by Flyin900 »
Common sense.....isn't so common!

1966 CL77 - 305cc - Gentleman's Scrambler
1967 CL175K0 - Scrambler #802 engine
1972 CB350F - Candy Bacchus Olive - Super Sport
1973 CB350F - Flake Matador Red - Super Sport
1975 CB400F - Parakeet Yellow - Super Sport
1976 CB400F - Varnish Blue - Super Sport
1976 GL1000 - Goldwing Standard
1978 CB550K - Super Sport
1981 GL1100 - Goldwing Standard
1982 CM450A - Hondamatic
1982 CB900C - Custom
1983 CX650E - Eurosport
1983 CB1000C - Custom X 2 Bikes now - both restored
1983 CB1100F - Super Sport - Pristine example
1984 GL1200 - Goldwing Standard

Offline TwoTired

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Re: 350F carbs
« Reply #8 on: January 26, 2018, 02:31:14 PM »
And there's the fact you have an old bike that few are trained to (or want to) work on. But, that likely won't stop them from charging you ever increasing amounts of money to keep the thing going.  They can be very good cash cows for a shop.  Once the bike is well sorted, it is very reliable.  However, neglect and abuse since the bike was first delivered accumulates over the years.  If you have a bottomless pit of money to dip into to correct all the bike's accumulated "character", then do have everyone but you work on the bike.

I can tell you that if I didn't already know how to work on the bike myself, I would sell them all and buy new, as it would make absolutely no economic sense.  I feel that if you have an old bike, and want to limit your cash outlay to enjoy it, you'd better learn to keep it working properly yourself.

I've been rebuilding and refurbishing SOHC4 carbs since 1975.  Unless the fuel junctions between carbs are leaking or you have big loss of metal due to corrosion, there is very seldom a need to dismantle the carb bank, and take them completely apart.   Address what doesn't work, fix that and go ride about.

It's your money.  If you'd rather give it away than gain knowledge and capability, then do what pleases you.

Cheers,

Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline stampederunner

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Re: 350F carbs
« Reply #9 on: January 26, 2018, 10:23:16 PM »
The only thing tricky about the CB350F carbs is getting the slides out so you can get to the needle. If things aren't that bad you can probably clean the slides and needle without removing them. A good sync is very important. I have a fancy set of gauges, but actually prefer using a set made from glass bottles and few feet of vacuum tubing. 
2001 Kawasaki ZR7
1973 Honda CB-350
1971 Honda CB-750

Offline WhyNot2

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Re: 350F carbs
« Reply #10 on: January 27, 2018, 03:54:20 AM »
The only thing tricky about the CB350F carbs is getting the slides out so you can get to the needle. If things aren't that bad you can probably clean the slides and needle without removing them. A good sync is very important. I have a fancy set of gauges, but actually prefer using a set made from glass bottles and few feet of vacuum tubing. 

Care to share a pix of that bottled manometer?
If it ain't raining, I'm riding.....~~{iii}?~~prost

If it sounds like I know what I'm talking about, it's because I cut and pasted from someone else.

Offline crazypj

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Re: 350F carbs
« Reply #11 on: February 02, 2018, 06:27:48 PM »
And there's the fact you have an old bike that few are trained to (or want to) work on. But, that likely won't stop them from charging you ever increasing amounts of money to keep the thing going.  They can be very good cash cows for a shop.  Once the bike is well sorted, it is very reliable.  However, neglect and abuse since the bike was first delivered accumulates over the years.  If you have a bottomless pit of money to dip into to correct all the bike's accumulated "character", then do have everyone but you work on the bike.

I can tell you that if I didn't already know how to work on the bike myself, I would sell them all and buy new, as it would make absolutely no economic sense.  I feel that if you have an old bike, and want to limit your cash outlay to enjoy it, you'd better learn to keep it working properly yourself.

I've been rebuilding and refurbishing SOHC4 carbs since 1975.  Unless the fuel junctions between carbs are leaking or you have big loss of metal due to corrosion, there is very seldom a need to dismantle the carb bank, and take them completely apart.   Address what doesn't work, fix that and go ride about.

It's your money.  If you'd rather give it away than gain knowledge and capability, then do what pleases you.

Cheers,



The usual words of wisdom from TT.
I agree with all of it.
 You have an old bike, the people trained to work on it are at the very least late fifties but more realistically early to late 60's (or more?) Learn to work on it now (while we are still around) or pay thousands for other people to learn how to fix it.
I fake being smart pretty good
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'

Offline WhyNot2

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Re: 350F carbs
« Reply #12 on: February 03, 2018, 02:55:15 AM »
And there's the fact you have an old bike that few are trained to (or want to) work on. But, that likely won't stop them from charging you ever increasing amounts of money to keep the thing going.  They can be very good cash cows for a shop.  Once the bike is well sorted, it is very reliable.  However, neglect and abuse since the bike was first delivered accumulates over the years.  If you have a bottomless pit of money to dip into to correct all the bike's accumulated "character", then do have everyone but you work on the bike.

I can tell you that if I didn't already know how to work on the bike myself, I would sell them all and buy new, as it would make absolutely no economic sense.  I feel that if you have an old bike, and want to limit your cash outlay to enjoy it, you'd better learn to keep it working properly yourself.

I've been rebuilding and refurbishing SOHC4 carbs since 1975.  Unless the fuel junctions between carbs are leaking or you have big loss of metal due to corrosion, there is very seldom a need to dismantle the carb bank, and take them completely apart.   Address what doesn't work, fix that and go ride about.

It's your money.  If you'd rather give it away than gain knowledge and capability, then do what pleases you.

Cheers,



The usual words of wisdom from TT.
I agree with all of it.
 You have an old bike, the people trained to work on it are at the very least late fifties but more realistically early to late 60's (or more?) Learn to work on it now (while we are still around) or pay thousands for other people to learn how to fix it.

Here-here

Most definitely................................................!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Got my first at 50, and haven't looked back since.

Thank God for the intranet and these fine peeps on these forums, I got more project bikes then needed.

But, they keep me going.
If it ain't raining, I'm riding.....~~{iii}?~~prost

If it sounds like I know what I'm talking about, it's because I cut and pasted from someone else.