Author Topic: 72 CB500 Restomod - Update Sold! (Read 46126 times)

Scramps · « **Reply #325 on:** November 22, 2018, 08:52:01 AM »

I love that 350. A friend of mine had a lead on one before I got my 500. I got very excited about the prospect of getting it, then he found out that the guy who had it didn’t want to sell.

My Suzuki is red, as well as my corolla, I thought gold would be a nice change of pace.

Forgot to mention, I’m also painting the headlight bucket to match.

Scramps · « **Reply #326 on:** November 22, 2018, 08:56:38 AM »

I’ve been going back and forth on the tank logo, trying to decide if it would look better with just “Honda” on there, or a nice white wing, kind of like the one on that 350.

calj737 · « **Reply #327 on:** November 22, 2018, 08:59:11 AM »

“Honda” emblems

Scramps · « **Reply #328 on:** November 22, 2018, 09:06:41 AM »

"Why not both?"

I agree, cal, the "Honda" is much neater, which is the overall aesthetic I'm going for.

Also here's a red version for fun

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Can550 · « **Reply #329 on:** November 22, 2018, 09:09:21 AM »

Well if you want to use original Honda wing and name then consider a tank off cb350 of that era. There are indents on tank to accommodate these badges unless you want to put decals of same look

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calj737 · « **Reply #330 on:** November 22, 2018, 09:52:47 AM »

Quote from: Can550 on November 22, 2018, 09:09:21 AM

Well if you want to use original Honda wing and name then consider a tank off cb350 of that era. There are indents on tank to accommodate these badges unless you want to put decals of same look

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Wont fit.

Can550 · « **Reply #331 on:** November 22, 2018, 10:07:59 AM »

Calj How about 350f tank on cb550f?

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calj737 · « **Reply #332 on:** November 22, 2018, 01:40:09 PM »

Quote from: Can550 on November 22, 2018, 10:07:59 AM

Calj How about 350f tank on cb550f?

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Not without modification.

Scramps · « **Reply #333 on:** November 23, 2018, 09:11:00 PM »

I made a thing.

The plastic one from an earlier post was a mock-up, to get an idea of how I wanted to position things.

I’ll probably take it to my day job shop on Monday so I can get some paint and primer on it in a warm, dry environment. The tank, side covers, and headlight bucket are going to the body shop Monday also, so that’s exciting

Hey, three cheers for grommets, by the way. My build was sorely lacking in grommets.

Scramps · « **Reply #334 on:** November 24, 2018, 09:28:15 AM »

I broke the primary wire harness down to its component parts and made a little pile of coiled up wires, and I was kind of surprised by how little there really is to it.

I’ve gotten to a point now where I can draw a complete rough diagram of the entire electrical system from memory, just because I’ve spent so much time looking at the wiring diagram, trying to find ways to make it more efficient.

I’m going to try to run most of the front wiring back to the cavity under the tank, to avoid creating a rat nest in the headlight bucket. Each circuit will have braided sleeving and enough slack to accommodate movement, and the rubberized p-clamps should keep everything from becoming snagged or entangled.

I’ve seen pictures of builds that featured two wire looms running parallel on either side of the frame, but I can’t figure out the objective of that.

Anyway that’s what’s on tap today.

Marissa · « **Reply #335 on:** November 24, 2018, 09:37:42 AM »

Awesome progress! and +1 for grommets, they really add so much more of a polished fit and finish.

calj737 · « **Reply #336 on:** November 24, 2018, 10:37:22 AM »

The two looms are often for builds that use a MotoGadget M-Unit. One look brings control wires from switches back to the M-Unit, the other loom provides power up front to the components.

Scramps · « **Reply #337 on:** November 24, 2018, 11:14:54 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on November 24, 2018, 10:37:22 AM

The two looms are often for builds that use a MotoGadget M-Unit. One look brings control wires from switches back to the M-Unit, the other loom provides power up front to the components.

That makes much more sense than the convoluted explanations that I was coming up with

Scramps · « **Reply #338 on:** November 24, 2018, 08:10:37 PM »

Well, #$%*.

I can’t say I wasn’t warned. I didn’t think it would get to this point so quickly, though

For clarity - that’s my cheap clutch pushrod. I never heard back from the dude that was supposed to harden the one I made from the high-carbon steel.

Scramps · « **Reply #339 on:** November 25, 2018, 10:15:27 AM »

Pulled the valve cover this morning, no sign of metal shavings up top, nor does there appear to be any scoring on the camshaft.

I’ve been second guessing myself on whether or not I got the camshaft and chain timed correctly the first time anyway, so it’s not the end of the world to pull all this back apart. I know it probably wouldn’t have run at all if it was wrong, but I feel like it might have been just one tooth off, so now I get to try again.

I’ll be checking the cylinders for scoring, and basically pulling everything off of the engine that I can with it still in the frame to make sure everything’s still okay.

calj737 · « **Reply #340 on:** November 25, 2018, 12:30:33 PM »

Just look at the ignition plate on the right side. When the 1/4 gets to the TDC mark, check the end of the cam to insure the “slot” is parallel to the head. If it is, you’re fine. If not, fix it.

About the only way you could get the bike to run and still be off with the cam would be to ignore the TDC reference and install the chain on the sprocket. Pretty hard to do really.

Scramps · « **Reply #341 on:** November 25, 2018, 01:03:04 PM »

Cool cool.

What do you think the likelihood of irreparable damage is, with those metal shavings in there?

calj737 · « **Reply #342 on:** November 25, 2018, 02:43:43 PM »

Irreparable? Little. Drain the oil, change the filter. Run the motor, drain the oil again, but capture it so you can inspect it. Use a strong magnet to collect any debris. If it’s clean, re-use it and ride on.

Scramps · « **Reply #343 on:** November 26, 2018, 06:53:27 PM »

Dropped my tank, side covers, and headlight bucket off at the body shop today. They’re pretty busy with insurance work, so I don’t expect they’ll be able to get to them for a while, but that’s okay. I’ve got all winter.

I also finished getting my junction plate all set up

It’s as neat and orderly as I can make it. Mostly new wire, triple-checked crimps, minimal splicing, clean stuff. I’m pleased with it.

I’ve got some stuff on order:
- shift shaft seal
- better headlight brackets
- OEM clutch push rod
- some stainless hardware for the valve cover
- a cheap starter flux welder and an auto darkening helmet

The parts of the engine that I’ve looked at seem fine, so I’ll be reassembling it.

Edit: I’ve found a used 4 into 2 exhaust on eBay for a reasonable sum of money. Thinking about taking a chance on it, it looks much better than what I’m working with presently.

Scramps · « **Reply #344 on:** November 27, 2018, 07:45:01 AM »

I pulled the trigger on that exhaust

$200 shipped, looks nice enough from the pictures. Need a little cleaning, but that’s no big.

Scramps · « **Reply #345 on:** November 29, 2018, 03:43:21 PM »

The exhaust came in already. I got part of it out, and it does not look as decent in real life as it does in the pictures.

Many dents and scratches. Most of the stuff that looked like road grime is actually just rust. It may still clean up and look passable. You get what you pay for, I reckon.

It’s 4 into 2, and the exhaust outlets are very small, so it should be much much quieter, so I’m happy.

I’ve got most of the stuff I ordered now, and the biggest hurdle for reassembly is the wiring harness. I’m optimistic that I’m going to end up with a very different looking and feeling motorbike. In a good way, of course

Scramps · « **Reply #346 on:** November 30, 2018, 09:31:22 PM »

Had a full evening in the garage tonight, which was productive. Made quite a bit of headway on the new harness. The pushrod came in, so the engine is all back together now. Carbs are back on, fresh oil in the crankcase, found a broken signal wire going to the 2-3 coil, things of that nature.

I'm trying to be more mindful of future disassembly in regards to the wiring. One of the advantages of the connectors I'm using is that the pins can be easily removed and reattached later if needed.

Scramps · « **Reply #347 on:** December 01, 2018, 11:31:51 AM »

My tank is away for painting, so I don't have it to place on the frame and test fit over my wire looms.

I sat my 550 tank on there, but I'm not sure if the tunnel under it has the same dimensions as the 500's. In any event, it looks like the best pathway for wires is along the top of the frame along either side of the seam.

Previously, my wires were running along the underside of the backbone, which was fine I guess, but I worry about the heat exposure in that area.

calj737 · « **Reply #348 on:** December 01, 2018, 02:39:36 PM »

500/550 tanks are the same tunnel I like the routing you mention; on top.

Scramps · « **Reply #349 on:** December 01, 2018, 09:40:22 PM »

I got the exhaust mounted up, it doesn't look terrible:

I also made some progress on my wiring, it's mostly all loomed up and ready for routing to the central destination which will be near the coils.

My favorite bit was the new ring terminals and wires for the coils themselves. I like the way that they look, this isn't a great picture, though.

Also lastly, I got the new headlight brackets on there. These ones are more inconspicuous, which is nice.

the switch and gauge bracket is also visible in that picture, which is still a work in progress.

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Author Topic: 72 CB500 Restomod - *Update* Sold! (Read 46126 times)

Author Topic: 72 CB500 Restomod - Update Sold! (Read 46126 times)