Topic: Engine cranks but bike won't fire

[aminemed]

Ok guys i'll try to get a picture. It is not 100% horizontally lying. It is somehow stuck inside. A friend of mine will lend me his telescop magnet.

For your info, here is the bike configuration, it is not stock:

i) 4 to 1 header
i) K&N pod filters

Main jet is 105 (stock)

Spark plugs cap are almost new and spark plugs were changed 2 months ago, but they are now black like the nightwatch and oily...I'm running DR8EA plugs (not D8EA). I do have oil going out from cylinders breather..i ran a compression tests 2 weeks ago and had similar compression accross all 4 cylinders..i do not know if this oil issue can be related to my oil fouled plugs..

[aminemed]

No did not touch the engine (above my skills..).

[aminemed]

Bike sat for a long period before i bought it from PO. Bike was running great according to PO. He even introduced me to his mechanic who used to do some routine maintenance.

What i changed:

Exhaust, 4 into 1
Airbox: K&N pod filters

According to previous mechanic, he never opened the engine only played with the carbs and used to set ignition timing at each maintenance routine. Carbs pilot and main jets are stock.

During the last 2 months, i did not ride much with the bike. Only some few rides: bike starts right away, engine is sluggish when cold, but 5 min later, it runs very well.

Last ride was last sunday, not more than 10 min. I suspect that oil was getting to the plugs slowly. Now i'm bit confused, as i do not know if it is an oil related issue, or a simple carb tuning to get the proper fuel level.

[aminemed]

Do i need to plug the tube in one of the carb overflows or in the drain hole after removing drain screw ?

[aminemed]

Thank you

I've noticed when checking my airscrew settings that when i turn my airscrews until they seat, each airscrew has a different stop position. They are not aligned on the same way.

[madmtnmotors]

The clear tube gets inserted into the drain hole. Don’t plug overflow. If the level is correct it won’t overflow.

Don't you need a modified drain screw with a connection for the clear tube with the round top carbs?

[Brian Barr]

I know it is a pain but take the bike back to its original configuration. Perform the 3000 mile maintenance plan. Methodical following of each step in the manual will get you there. If you run into something you don't understand, ask about it here.
 The installation of air pods has stymied many a backyard mechanic. These bikes are nefarious for not working well with modified air filtration systems with the OEM carbs.

[evinrude7]

I know it is a pain but take the bike back to its original configuration. Perform the 3000 mile maintenance plan. Methodical following of each step in the manual will get you there. If you run into something you don't understand, ask about it here.
 The installation of air pods has stymied many a backyard mechanic. These bikes are nefarious for not working well with modified air filtration systems with the OEM carbs.

+1 werd!

[minimo]

Thank you

I've noticed when checking my airscrew settings that when i turn my airscrews until they seat, each airscrew has a different stop position. They are not aligned on the same way.

The air screws are not all the same when fully seated (clockwise), however, they should be backed out the same degree of turns from their respective seated positions. Also, do not force them too hard when seating. Stock is about 1.5 to 2 turn back from fully seated but airscrew adjustment sounds like it will do little to fix your ultra rich condition. I'd wager you'll need to drop your needles down at least a notch...

As for the clear tube test, you might be able to find in the irrigation section of some major hardware store a valve-like hose fitting that may fit tight into the float drain screw hole (may need to fudge it a bit with some Teflon tape or something) and then some clear tube to fit onto the fitting. Having the valve is essential to control the flow of fuel, especially if it overflows.
There were some clever tools used - goldarrow’s method from a while back is pretty nifty:

I think he mentioned he found this in the aquarium section at Walmart or a pet store or aquarium supply house.
I was at my favorite place in the world the other week, Home Depot and got this but I haven’t tried it yet (might have to build it up a bit with Teflon tape to make it fit in the drain screw hole):




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[Grabcon]

Okay what am I missing here. It looks like everyone is going the fuel route. Have you even checked to see if you have spark at the plugs? Also if your plugs are fuel soaked replace them. They are only a couple of bucks. You also mentioned that you replaced the spark plug caps. Did you cut the plug wires back at least a 1/4" prior to putting on the new caps. It is very common that the plug wire end do not get good contact with the caps. Be Careful not to clip to much wire as they are short to begin with.

I have had the kill switch fail on a CB550. Sometimes the bike would start and run other times it would not. By pass the kill switch and try again. On mine it was in the switch itself. The is a little brass contact that was very worn. I replaced the switch and all was fine.

[strynboen]

tru to hot wire the coils..then all viring is aut of the game..for now..

[aminemed]

I still did not have the time to perform the clear tube method, but just for my knoweledge, is an idication of wet plugs, clearly too much fuel, would indicate that i need to drop the needle by 1 notch as a starter ? thank you

[madmtnmotors]

I still did not have the time to perform the clear tube method, but just for my knoweledge, is an idication of wet plugs, clearly too much fuel, would indicate that i need to drop the needle by 1 notch as a starter ? thank you

No. Wet plugs indicate you have a problem. The clear tube float level check is the means to eliminate improper float level as the culprit. A weak or failed spark will make a plug wet too since there would not be a spark (or enough spark) to burn the fuel. From there you move on to verifying that ignition power and timing are working properly in order to eliminate a weak or no spark condition and continue running down the list of components that are typically inspected/adjusted/replaced at the 3000 and/or 10,000 mile tune up until you have found the culprit or at least addressed each of the items referenced. Jet sizes and needle positions are for fine tuning. If you can't get the bike to start then you have problems other than just jet size or needle position.

[aminemed]

Thank you

i ran across all the 3000 miles tune up, except valve clearance and float level..

A mechanich that i know who spent all a lot of time working on CB's suggested that i should start by covering with tape half of my pod filters, to replicate the stock airbox in a way..don't know if that whould make my mixture less rich. For me if not enough fuel is burned it means that there is not enough oxygen getting into the mixture.

[Keith]

Do you have spark? You need to know this. Don't waste your time taping up pods. Once you verify spark or not, you can proceed. You need all 3... Fuel, spark, compression at the correct time. These are the basics.

[aminemed]

Changed 4 plugs and bike is running again but i'm certain that my plugs will foul again
 I start thinking that i might have a vaccum leak at my carb rubber boots. These boots are not soft anymore and i should.also put new clamps. Those on the.boots. are not very tight. I also noticed that i have a small leak of fuel at the end of these boots.

[minimo]

But did you ever get around to checking what your spark looks like across all four before running this again? Better to do this and before they foul too badly again.

What’s the condition of your air pod filters? Fouled plugs could be an indication of plugged up air filter(s); system not getting enough air. Make sure your pod filters are clean and not over-oiled.

After you’ve determined good spark across all four plugs, maybe then while you have the bike running idle, gently mist some aerosol carb choke systematically around the boots and when your idle adjusts noticeably, chances are you have an air leak in that area where idle is affected.

You also mentioned you’re running stock main jets with air pods? Hmmm... and what’s your muffler like? You might need to upsize the jets




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[jgger]

So you have fuel soaked fouled plugs and raw fuel dripping from the intake.............something says to me, oh I don't know MAYBE THE FLOAT LEVEL ISN'T RIGHT! Guys have been telling you to check this very basic, but important  item almost from the start and you keep running in the opposite direction?

If the carb boots are leaking it would be lean and the plugs would be white. You could have something as simple as debris in the needle valve. Check the float level.

[madmtnmotors]

So you have fuel soaked fouled plugs and raw fuel dripping from the intake.............something says to me, oh I don't know MAYBE THE FLOAT LEVEL ISN'T RIGHT! Guys have been telling you to check this very basic, but important  item almost from the start and you keep running in the opposite direction?

If the carb boots are leaking it would be lean and the plugs would be white. You could have something as simple as debris in the needle valve. Check the float level.

This bears repeating. A vacuum leak would cause a lean condition, not rich. Fuel dripping from the carb boots would likely be a clue as to the rich condition of the plugs and is likely due to an incorrect float level or a worn/leaky float valve which would cause a rich condition.