Topic: lots of electrical problems. not sure where to start

[juntjoo]

Would this do?:

NO

Square D   Homeline 30 Amp Single-Pole Circuit Breaker
https://homedepot.app.link/dfiR53FgaK
SKU# 202353319


cheap but bulky. Or should I check radio shack, tho I know whatever they have they'll charge a finger or two.

Otherwise I can use a bulb temporarily but I kinda like the idea of a permanent circuit breaker

and is one of these:

Square D   Homeline 30 Amp Single-Pole Circuit Breaker
https://homedepot.app.link/dfiR53FgaK
SKU# 202353319

NO

the best way to hook up a bulb?

And if I use a bulb(30amp), do I disregard anything under full brightness? Or should I get something a bit higher than 30amp so I know if it's close to full illumination I've got a problem. sorry for all the questions but I'm pretty dumb with this stuff and when I try to br smart on my own things break lol. thanks for all your help. really

If you get the Gold Wing one listed in a previous reply to you, please look at the following eBay link for the circuit breaker that will fit for blade fuse replacement.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Circuit-Breaker-Blade-Fuse-28V-DC-Resettable-5-30A-Marine-Rally-Automotive/322966055040?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=512107290490&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Use THAT circuit breaker, to replace the blade fuse in the GOLD WING fusebox/starter relay. Like the following one, and just replace the FUSE in it with the CIRCUIT BREAKER.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Relay-Solenoid-For-HONDA-1980-1983-GL1100-GOLD-WING-INTERSTATE-ASPENCADE/132144658209?epid=1391143332&hash=item1ec46f7721:g:VcsAAOSwSlBY3f8P&vxp=mtr

I see you found the calibration dial on your analog multimeter - to use it, place your meter dial on the OHM range you want to measure- hold the two probes together to get the needle to move towards zero- use the calibration dial to zero the needle on your meter, and it is ready to measure ohms accurately. Then a direct short will read zero on your meter, and any ohms of resistance will be able to be read.
Charlie

thanks. I meant one of these:

Leviton   Outlet-to-Socket Light Plug, White
https://homedepot.app.link/e4UK2p0gaK
SKU# 100170446

for a bulb. I'll do that til I get one of those circuit breakers. I apologuze as I did read that post and it just slipped my mind. IDK if it's that I'm working on so many new things at once or just my brain in general but I did read it and make a note to myself I'd get one and to use a bulb in the meantime.

And Ive spent some time with my meter, even destroyed a smoke detector to get at it's resistors and it has a lot and they all got different measurements but when I looked them up online, as they are color codes only, they don't match up. I even tried deciphering them in reverse. So maybe my meter is bad or Idk but it just occured to me maybe I could use fuses. Got a bunch of those. They have specific ohms right? (edit: not with my meter. yeah, on 2nd thought they don't need particular significant resistances)

anyway, I'll try to keep a bookmark on my learning and plan of attack without having to go over the same stuff more than once. Right now, it's redo the valve clearances, verify no leaks, then I can run the bike and check timimg THEN I think with all that out od the way it might be easier to focus on this electrical issue.

[Yamahawk]

thanks. I meant one of these:

Leviton   Outlet-to-Socket Light Plug, White
https://homedepot.app.link/e4UK2p0gaK
SKU# 100170446
NO

Please try to remember that Home Depot has HOME Electronic items, not AUTOMOTIVE electronics. Go to AutoZone, O'reillys, Advance Auto.. Pep Boys...the key word is... AUTO not HOME. Home electronic items work on 110vAC not 12vDC. Your motorcycle is like a car, in that it uses 12vDC. So, remember to shop auto parts stores, not Home Improvement Stores... They have circuit breakers AND sockets
at Auto Part stores that will fit an 1156 bulb for testing, or find an automotive bulb that is 30watts, or 35watts, and use that for your testing.
Charlie

[TwoTired]

The voltage rating for the fuse is not a concern in this application, just the amperage rating.
The voltage rating is  related to internal component arrangement proximity to avoid arcing. (creepage and clearances)

You would not use a 20v rated fuse in a 120v circuit.  You can use a 120v rated circuit protection device in a 12v circuit.

Cheers,

[juntjoo]

The voltage rating for the fuse is not a concern in this application, just the amperage rating.
The voltage rating is  related to internal component arrangement proximity to avoid arcing. (creepage and clearances)

You would not use a 20v rated fuse in a 120v circuit.  You can use a 120v rated circuit protection device in a 12v circuit.

Cheers,

Did I say something about voltage? Must have been a typo. I didn't even think about voltage as far as a fuse. Thanks tho. You might have just saved me from scewing something up in the future.

[juntjoo]

thanks. I meant one of these:

Leviton   Outlet-to-Socket Light Plug, White
https://homedepot.app.link/e4UK2p0gaK
SKU# 100170446
NO

Please try to remember that Home Depot has HOME Electronic items, not AUTOMOTIVE electronics. Go to AutoZone, O'reillys, Advance Auto.. Pep Boys...the key word is... AUTO not HOME. Home electronic items work on 110vAC not 12vDC. Your motorcycle is like a car, in that it uses 12vDC. So, remember to shop auto parts stores, not Home Improvement Stores... They have circuit breakers AND sockets
at Auto Part stores that will fit an 1156 bulb for testing, or find an automotive bulb that is 30watts, or 35watts, and use that for your testing.
Charlie

ah I get ya. Things I would correctly answer in multiple choice tests, but struggle to apply the information thereof until you kind people enlighten me on the how. thanks again.

[Yamahawk]

The voltage rating for the fuse is not a concern in this application, just the amperage rating.
The voltage rating is  related to internal component arrangement proximity to avoid arcing. (creepage and clearances)

You would not use a 20v rated fuse in a 120v circuit.  You can use a 120v rated circuit protection device in a 12v circuit.

Cheers,

But... using a 120vAC 30amp circuit breaker in a 12v application isn't going to work.
V*A=W (VOLTS times AMPS=WATTS
120v*30A=3600watts
12v*30A=360watts
To get the same WATT equivalent in 12V would have to be a 12v 300AMP breaker. (12v*300A=3600Watts)
Watts are Watts no matter what voltage you use.
Conversely, to run a 360 watt 12vdc circuit, you would need a 120v 3A source, as in a transformer. Now you could use a 120v 3A breaker to protect that transformer...
There is a difference on the load  in Watts. You would never use a 120v 30A breaker in a 12v DC application. Not practical, either, as the breaker is 'huge' compared to the tiny little 30A breaker disguised as a fuse. So, if you are suggesting he try this, I don't think that's a good idea. He is trying to learn proper ways of working on DC circuitry, and telling him he could substitute AC components is really the wrong way to approach that.
Please follow the links on eBay, and order the appropriate parts. If you want to wire a 35WATT 12vdc bulb across the existing main fuse terminals, which have a spade connector between them now, get a 1156 socket from the AUTO parts store, and an equivalent bulb, and wire the two leads from the socket, under the two screws on that fuse connector, FOR TESTING PURPOSES ONLY. For operation, get that GL1100 Goldwing solenoid/harness connector/fuse holder in the link. And the 30A breaker in the other eBay link. Or a handful of conventional blade fuses (A BIG handful)
That is what should be recommended....
Charlie

[FuZZie]

The voltage rating for the fuse is not a concern in this application, just the amperage rating.
The voltage rating is  related to internal component arrangement proximity to avoid arcing. (creepage and clearances)

You would not use a 20v rated fuse in a 120v circuit.  You can use a 120v rated circuit protection device in a 12v circuit.

Cheers,

But... using a 120vAC 30amp circuit breaker in a 12v application isn't going to work.
V*A=W (VOLTS times AMPS=WATTS
120v*30A=3600watts
12v*30A=360watts
To get the same WATT equivalent in 12V would have to be a 12v 300AMP breaker. (12v*300A=3600Watts)
Watts are Watts no matter what voltage you use.
Conversely, to run a 360 watt 12vdc circuit, you would need a 120v 3A source, as in a transformer. Now you could use a 120v 3A breaker to protect that transformer...
There is a difference on the load  in Watts. You would never use a 120v 30A breaker in a 12v DC application. Not practical, either, as the breaker is 'huge' compared to the tiny little 30A breaker disguised as a fuse. So, if you are suggesting he try this, I don't think that's a good idea. He is trying to learn proper ways of working on DC circuitry, and telling him he could substitute AC components is really the wrong way to approach that.
Please follow the links on eBay, and order the appropriate parts. If you want to wire a 35WATT 12vdc bulb across the existing main fuse terminals, which have a spade connector between them now, get a 1156 socket from the AUTO parts store, and an equivalent bulb, and wire the two leads from the socket, under the two screws on that fuse connector, FOR TESTING PURPOSES ONLY. For operation, get that GL1100 Goldwing solenoid/harness connector/fuse holder in the link. And the 30A breaker in the other eBay link. Or a handful of conventional blade fuses (A BIG handful)
That is what should be recommended....
Charlie

How are you getting to watts for a breaker Charlie?
Do they have a filament that must burn out somewhere I don't know about?

[strynboen]

there is also teh ac/dc  it have not the same load..so the fomular must be for the korrekt kurrent type

[Yamahawk]

OHM's Law doesn't change. And yes there are watts on a motorcycle also, in the draw from the various electrical loads from light bulbs (rated in WATTS they draw) and your ignition system, horn, electric heated accessories, etc. . Are you really suggesting a house current breaker should or could be used on a motorcycle? I am trying to educate him on what should and must be used in his application, not what you are referring to as for a breaker. Again, the formula for Watts or AMPS or Votage is:
W=V*A
V=W\A
A=W\V
This doesn't change. 50 Watts draw on 120v is a smaller amp draw than 50 Watts draw on a 12v system. And, watts are watts, they are the constant.
Now, as far as the filament, a glass fuse for 12v does have a filament that will burn out. Also, the old school house fuses that screwed in, also had a filament that would burn out. Now when they changed to circuit breakers, that technology did away with filaments, but they still interrupt the circuit when the watts consumed in the home or auto/motorcycle exceeds the amp rating on the breaker. again, watts=volts*amps.
And that is how I am getting Watts for a breaker. When the watts used by whatever load is on the system, exceeds the formula for amps drawn, the breaker blows.
Charlie

[FuZZie]

The bikes fuses are already known values, the breakers would use said values so no math needed It's just already been done for us.

I've never tried a 120v ac breaker on 12v dc and honestly not knowing interests me. I'm kind of thinking 30a is 30a?

[Yamahawk]

The bikes fuses are already known values, the breakers would use said values so no math needed It's just already been done for us.

I've never tried a 120v ac breaker on 12v dc and honestly not knowing interests me. I'm kind of thinking 30a is 30a?

Again, logic sometimes don't work out the way we think...
The load that draws amps are the watts consumed. W=V*A, so 30 amps at 12v is 360 watts. 30amps at 120v is 3600 watts, the 30amp home breaker HAS to be larger to accommodate this higher watt load. In respect to that, it might be more like a 300amp 12VDC load.

Charlie

[Yamahawk]

It is interesting how we talk about electricity, and split it up into three know values (attributes) that can combine to the constant of Watts. But they are all components of electricity, or what we call that. They cannot exist separately, and are all part of the same thing... electricity.
I kind of like comparing that to God. God has three attributes, in that He is God the Father (Watts) God the Son(Amps) and God the Holy Spirit (Volts). None can exist separately from each other, as they are all One. The Power is the Holy Spirit, as He works God's Power in and through us... The force is Jesus Christ, as the voltage is force... and the One Who Runs All Things... is God the Father (Watts).I like to talk to technically minded people with this analogy to get them to understand how God can be three in one... or Trinity.
Charlie

[strynboen]

yes...
 but it are more komplikated vhen think of magenetism/elektro magenet..and flux lines..in a elektro motor/generator/..you have pure magenet- elektro magenet and flux and elektric pover.
.ørsted from denmark made some simpel rules..but still its komplikated.
.specily on magenetic ignision systems.hvere all forms is in one funktionel machine part..just like a ignision coil hvere you have both forms of" energi" at the same time

[Yamahawk]

yes...
 but it are more komplikated vhen think of magenetism/elektro magenet..and flux lines..in a elektro motor/generator/..you have pure magenet- elektro magenet and flux and elektric pover.
.ørsted from denmark made some simpel rules..but still its komplikated.
.specily on magenetic ignision systems.hvere all forms is in one funktionel machine part..just like a ignision coil hvere you have both forms of" energi" at the same time

Agreed!
   And all things work through this electromagnetism generated. Did you know that All Things in the Universe are actually composed of EMF (electro-magnetic frequency)? Even Matter, exists at a certain wavelength, or frequency... and appears solid to us. Hydrogen, being the 1st element of matter, has a huge energy potential when it is released... as in a Hydrogen Bomb. This is where energy and matter meet. Now as you get higher in frequency, the wavelength gets shorter and shorter, between waves. ELF waves are hundreds of miles long. HF is perhaps 160 meters long, and vhf is 2 meters long... if you are a ham radio operator, you know this. As the frequencies climb, they get shorter, and more powerful, as is shown in UHF and SHF frequencies, as microwaves. 1000watts of SHF will fry your oatmeal in about 2 minutes...
Now moving on from there, we get into invisible light, visible light, XRays, gamma rays, and cosmic rays, each shorter and more powerful than before... but still, EMF. The highest Power EMF would be the one where there is no distance between the waves... and that is what God started with, when He created All Things... He said, let there be Light.. changing the frequency to 680Nm, and there was Light. Another good analogy to God's creation.
BTW- the Periodic Chart of elements that you learned in Chemistry class, is just theory, not reality.. and scientists know this now. But it was a great way to get us to understand that relationship between elements that were of different frequencies. Sodium, and Chlorine, to very different elements, one being a dull gray metal that reacts violently in water, is reacted with chlorine, a colorless gas, and you get... table salt, Sodium Chloride, NaCl. That is amazing, and a transmutation of two radically different physical elements into a third compound, essential to all animal life... Fascinating, actually.
Charlie

[strynboen]

ve are going off topic...but the fun vay..yes i Work in vhf and 2 meter radioes..have just bayed this Classic Danish ship radio..
https://www.dba.dk/vhf-radio-sailor-med-self/id-1041011527/


veri intresting that all those teories is mindet abaut the 1920 and ahead. and opend up for a biigger understanding of the basis nature
.ve had niels bohr ..vho had got a long vay..as the germany seintist vanted him dovn there in the 1930..but he vent to usa

[Yamahawk]

ve are going off topic...but the fun vay..yes i Work in vhf and 2 meter radioes..have just bayed this Classic Danish ship radio..
https://www.dba.dk/vhf-radio-sailor-med-self/id-1041011527/

Cool! Nice radio!!
  When my youngest daughter was in elementary school, I helped her on a science fair project and we constructed a 'Lecher' wire. where you transmit RF (UHF from a 70cm handheld) into the two wires, and run an electric bulb from a flashlight along the two wires. It would light up at the 'nodes' of RF wavelength. 1/4. 1/2, 3/4, and full wave on the wires. I used UHF 450MhZ so it would be short enough. Now, conventional logic says that if you have electricity on the two wires, it should light up anywhere on the wires that the bulb contacts... but, in RF, it only lights at the Nodes of RF frequency. every 6" it would light up, then dim to dark, then light up at the next node... it was pretty cool. And, my apologies for going off topic.
Charlie

[FuZZie]

The bikes fuses are already known values, the breakers would use said values so no math needed It's just already been done for us.

I've never tried a 120v ac breaker on 12v dc and honestly not knowing interests me. I'm kind of thinking 30a is 30a?

Again, logic sometimes don't work out the way we think...
The load that draws amps are the watts consumed. W=V*A, so 30 amps at 12v is 360 watts. 30amps at 120v is 3600 watts, the 30amp home breaker HAS to be larger to accommodate this higher watt load. In respect to that, it might be more like a 300amp 12VDC load.

Charlie

Your so right on the LOGIC, The big reason for us not to use an "AC type breaker" on a motorbike is arc suppression, which could create a really bad day around fuel or it's fumes!!!

I'm not so sure on trusting DC breakers anymore either, I'm thinking sealed stuff is a better path in this case.

[Yamahawk]

Interesting youtube video with a fellow trying an AC circuit breaker with DC voltage, it took double the amperage the breaker was rated for. It is not a good practice, but he demonstrates that it will trip the circuit breaker. It doesn't mean you should do this, and it is by no mean correct to use an AC breaker in a DC circuit. There is much theory behind the usage of Direct Current, vs. Alternating Current devices, but I wouldn't even consider it for my bike lol...

Charlie

[juntjoo]

yes...
 but it are more komplikated vhen think of magenetism/elektro magenet..and flux lines..in a elektro motor/generator/..you have pure magenet- elektro magenet and flux and elektric pover.
.ørsted from denmark made some simpel rules..but still its komplikated.
.specily on magenetic ignision systems.hvere all forms is in one funktionel machine part..just like a ignision coil hvere you have both forms of" energi" at the same time

Agreed!
   And all things work through this electromagnetism generated. Did you know that All Things in the Universe are actually composed of EMF (electro-magnetic frequency)? Even Matter, exists at a certain wavelength, or frequency... and appears solid to us. Hydrogen, being the 1st element of matter, has a huge energy potential when it is released... as in a Hydrogen Bomb. This is where energy and matter meet. Now as you get higher in frequency, the wavelength gets shorter and shorter, between waves. ELF waves are hundreds of miles long. HF is perhaps 160 meters long, and vhf is 2 meters long... if you are a ham radio operator, you know this. As the frequencies climb, they get shorter, and more powerful, as is shown in UHF and SHF frequencies, as microwaves. 1000watts of SHF will fry your oatmeal in about 2 minutes...
Now moving on from there, we get into invisible light, visible light, XRays, gamma rays, and cosmic rays, each shorter and more powerful than before... but still, EMF. The highest Power EMF would be the one where there is no distance between the waves... and that is what God started with, when He created All Things... He said, let there be Light.. changing the frequency to 680Nm, and there was Light. Another good analogy to God's creation.
BTW- the Periodic Chart of elements that you learned in Chemistry class, is just theory, not reality.. and scientists know this now. But it was a great way to get us to understand that relationship between elements that were of different frequencies. Sodium, and Chlorine, to very different elements, one being a dull gray metal that reacts violently in water, is reacted with chlorine, a colorless gas, and you get... table salt, Sodium Chloride, NaCl. That is amazing, and a transmutation of two radically different physical elements into a third compound, essential to all animal life... Fascinating, actually.
Charlie

yes, it is fascinating. I'm vaguely cognitively aware of the things you speak of and am fascinated by deep science like this. Question is, then what does the devil represent? All the malfunctioning that causee shorts? Of all things above and below?  Lately I've been looking into quantum physics and "sacred" geometry and a really weird one, gematria and all things that help explain reality.  lol, nice detour there

And I'm much more aware of what I'm dealing with here so thanks everyone for all this info

[TwoTired]

The voltage rating for the fuse is not a concern in this application, just the amperage rating.
The voltage rating is  related to internal component arrangement proximity to avoid arcing. (creepage and clearances)

You would not use a 20v rated fuse in a 120v circuit.  You can use a 120v rated circuit protection device in a 12v circuit.

Cheers,

But... using a 120vAC 30amp circuit breaker in a 12v application isn't going to work.

Yes, it will work fine.  See below.

V*A=W (VOLTS times AMPS=WATTS
120v*30A=3600watts
12v*30A=360watts

Sorry, your premise is flawed.
The fuse does not consume all that power, only a very tiny portion to warm the element.  So, your proposed power calculations are irrelevant and inappropriate.
P= I²R.  You don't even need a voltage to solve that equation.  (While a voltage potential difference is required to allow current flow through the fuse, it is not what is critical to force it to melt.)  It has a fixed resistance and the current flow through it generates heat above ambient. It's inline resistance is very small compared to it's current carrying ability.  It consumes very very little power during it's use.  What you should use for calculation is how much voltage is dropped across the fuse device itself (derived from resistance), if you still refuse to use the simpler P= I²R equation.

Watts are Watts no matter what voltage you use.

Agreed.

Conversely, to run a 360 watt 12vdc circuit, you would need a 120v 3A source, as in a transformer. Now you could use a 120v 3A breaker to protect that transformer...
There is a difference on the load  in Watts. You would never use a 120v 30A breaker in a 12v DC application. Not practical, either, as the breaker is 'huge' compared to the tiny little 30A breaker disguised as a fuse. So, if you are suggesting he try this, I don't think that's a good idea. He is trying to learn proper ways of working on DC circuitry, and telling him he could substitute AC components is really the wrong way to approach that.
Please follow the links on eBay, and order the appropriate parts. If you want to wire a 35WATT 12vdc bulb across the existing main fuse terminals, which have a spade connector between them now, get a 1156 socket from the AUTO parts store, and an equivalent bulb, and wire the two leads from the socket, under the two screws on that fuse connector, FOR TESTING PURPOSES ONLY. For operation, get that GL1100 Goldwing solenoid/harness connector/fuse holder in the link. And the 30A breaker in the other eBay link. Or a handful of conventional blade fuses (A BIG handful)
That is what should be recommended....
Charlie

I hope you'll retract that recommendation, as it is based on false and misleading assumptions.

FYI: I had to learn this stuff in my 30 years of electronic design, including power supply manufacture.  They are fused as required by safety codes; UL, CSA, VDE, NEC, etc.  Every country seems to have their own version to adhere to if you wish to distribute product in that country.
Cheers,

>>>Read this excerpt from the Littlefuse site:http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/product_catalogs/littelfuse_fuseology_selection_guide.pdf.pdf  See page 4.

"As mentioned previously (See RERATING section), fuses
are sensitive to changes in current, not voltage, maintaining
their “status quo” at any voltage up to the maximum rating
of the fuse. It is not until the fuse element melts and
arcing occurs that the circuit voltage and available power
become an issue. The safe interruption of the circuit, as it
relates to circuit voltage and available power, is discussed
in the section on INTERRUPTING RATING.

To summarize, a fuse may be used at any voltage that is
less than its voltage rating without detriment to its fusing
characteristics. Please contact the factory for applications
at voltages greater than the voltage rating"

[Yamahawk]

Look... I am not going to recommend a 120VAC breaker be used in any 12vdc application.. no matter your experience, nor your recommendation that it is appropriate... if that is what you are beating around the littlfuse bush. I am recommending that he get the updated type of fuse/solenoid/harness connector used in the GL1100 and use an APPROVED 12vdc 30amp ATC beaker. THAT is what I am recommending. Now, strynboen mentioned the 35 watt bulb for testing for shorts, and that is ok, won't retract that either.. but I will say, that automotive/motorcycle equipment may be used SAFELY rather than HOME equipment like Square D breakers. The one link shows the testing of another person in the 6amp AC breaker, it took 12v at 14amps to trip it. So, even without that knowledge, i would not and will not recommend AC circuit breakers designed for 120/240VAC for any motorcycle application. Just saying it will work is like stating a .308 cartridge can be fired in a .30-06...
I believe your logic is flawed, and your misreading what i stated. Not Fuses, but a circuit breaker. And OHM's law is never flawed. It is a constant. I am stating that a 120vac 30amp breaker is rated to trip at 3600watts... a 12vdc 30amp breaker is rated to trip at 360 watts... is that incorrect? So when you substitute a 120vac 30amp breaker in a 12vdc 30amp circuit, there isn't the same thing going on, and it is not a fuse element.  Why don't you do some testing, and let us know the results, with an amp probe and a 120vac 30amp circuit breaker, using 12vdc at an increasing wattage load, and see when the 30 amp breaker trips. That would be making a valid argument based upon fact not premise. I would hazard to say it would trip well above the load required to produce 30 amps at 12vdc... remember, the Load is Watts consumed. The watts required can be a resistor (in watts)or a light array(in watts) that will generate 30 amps at 12vdc.
Charlie

[Yamahawk]

According to Square D, there are Ac and DC rated breakers in the QO and QOB designation, rated up to 48vdc. They have a similar trip curve. Here is the link to the FAQ
https://www.schneider-electric.us/en/faqs/FA126583/
You cannot use just any 120vac breaker, however, they have to be dual rated. Still, why would you use that, when there are smaller and better 12vdc equipment available.
Charlie

[TwoTired]

I believe your logic is flawed, and your misreading what i stated. Not Fuses, but a circuit breaker. And OHM's law is never flawed. It is a constant.

Ohm's law is never flawed, true.  Neither is Watt's law.  Both laws can be misapplied, which is what you are doing.  Take a look at the manufacturer data for the devices they supply.  That's an engineering solution rather than a theoretical supposition.

I am stating that a 120vac 30amp breaker is rated to trip at 3600watts... a 12vdc 30amp breaker is rated to trip at 360 watts... is that incorrect?

Sorry. Yes, it IS incorrect.  They are both rated to trip when 30 amps is exceeded, at a time and tolerance specified by the maker.  The voltage rating has nothing to do with functional trip points.
 
As a general rule, fuses break when currents slightly over their rating occur.  Circuit breakers are usually slower to trip when over their rating due to their mechanical nature.  The manufacturers will specify what that overage and time requirements are for their device.  Any engineer that want's to incorporate that device, should be intimately aware of what the part requirements are BEFORE using them.
Fuses use a calibrated metal with known resistance as well as physical shape.  Circuit breakers often use a bimetalic strip that heats with current flow.  The heat bends the strip away from a sear.  A breaker with a 12VDC rating need only move the contacts away from each other a smaller amount than a breaker that must guarantee interruption of a 120V application and still prevent arcing and surges.  This is providing a required air gap that regulatory agencies require.
12VDC is generally non-lethal, 120V IS lethal.  Such devices need extra gaps to pass regulatory standards such as a HIPot test. 

The device's function is NOT voltage sensitive.  They are current sensitive and watts' law applies.   Safey standards require different construction to meet safety standards and voltage rating are related to higher voltage safety for humans, no functional ratings for current interruption.

The voltage requirements are there for AFTER the devices trip, so that arcing cannot happen to reengage the safety device after it blows or trips.

So when you substitute a 120vac 30amp breaker in a 12vdc 30amp circuit, there isn't the same thing going on, and it is not a fuse element.  Why don't you do some testing, and let us know the results, with an amp probe and a 120vac 30amp circuit breaker, using 12vdc at an increasing wattage load, and see when the 30 amp breaker trips. That would be making a valid argument based upon fact not premise. I would hazard to say it would trip well above the load required to produce 30 amps at 12vdc... remember, the Load is Watts consumed. The watts required can be a resistor (in watts)or a light array(in watts) that will generate 30 amps at 12vdc.
Charlie

I HAVE done many lab tests.  A 30 amp breaker (or fuse) is a 30 amp breaker (or fuse), regardless of voltage rating.   I will ask you to do the same thing.  Do your own tests, as your statement clearly indicates you are guessing, and misinterpreting what the rated numbers are used for on labeled circuit breakers.

You can also look at manufacturer rating curves for trip behavior.  They won't show any voltage in the trip condition charts.  Only time and multiples of current.  Here are a couple...

[TwoTired]

Interesting youtube video with a fellow trying an AC circuit breaker with DC voltage, it took double the amperage the breaker was rated for. It is not a good practice, but he demonstrates that it will trip the circuit breaker. It doesn't mean you should do this, and it is by no mean correct to use an AC breaker in a DC circuit. There is much theory behind the usage of Direct Current, vs. Alternating Current devices, but I wouldn't even consider it for my bike lol...

Charlie

The guy on You tube doesn't know what he's talking about.  Notice his second overcurrent took some time to trip?  That is part of the way it is supposed to work.  It's a time vs overcurrent graph.  High overcurrents trip faster than minimal overcurrents.  The device "tested" isn't a fast reactive device.  You actually don't want that in it's intended application, as that would lead to a lot of "false" tripping.  Again, if he used engineering principles rather than self centered video popularity as a metric, he would have gone to the manufacturer and found the expected behavior of the part and then tested it to note compliance, or been able to predict when it would trip in his application.  I won't even get into calibration of test equipment to get known accurate and reliable results.

No, it didn't blow right away.  It tripped when the heat build up from overcurrent forced the trip over a time allotment.  Higher currents would have made it trip faster.  Lower overcurrents would have made it trip slower.   Breakers usually have a trip setting at more than 100% rating and many won't trip until 120% (or more) of rating and/or waiting the designed time interval.

Cheers,

[Yamahawk]

So after ALL that, do you want to tell the OP its ok to use the SquareD HomeLine circuit breaker on his bike?
I will suggest to him to use the GL1100 fuse holder/solenoid/4 pin harness connector, and either a 30amp ATC fuse or circuit breaker... he is already learning quite a bit from listening. And that is good, as he has no knowledge of electrical components.
Charlie