Author Topic: CB750 Rebuild K0 (Read 4280 times)

77379 · « **on:** January 30, 2018, 02:11:44 PM »

I saw this on eBay and asked the seller a few questions. The winning bidder never paid for it so he called me back and we worked out a deal. It was probably a better deal for him than for me. The motor is locked up and it won’t shift out of whatever gear it is in so I plan to tear it down and rebuild it. A lot of the parts and pieces are still there. The gauge shows 15,000 miles and most of the screw heads and bolts look like they have never been removed but that is coming to an end. It was set up with a fairing and bags on the back so the headlight was removed and holes drilled in the rear fender to re position the turn signals. The seller tossed those out but he still had a lot of the original tool kit. I have seen here what a many of the members have been able to accomplish and it has inspired me and encouraged me to take this project on.
Gregg

Stev-o · « **Reply #1 on:** January 30, 2018, 03:55:43 PM »

Congrats Gregg. She do look a little rough but that should buff right out! Ha.

I would restore it correct, the K0's are becoming very collectable and valuable.

Or ya gonna make a Chopper?!!

BPellerine · « **Reply #2 on:** January 30, 2018, 04:50:51 PM »

good project,most of it is there,so you have a good start.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #3 on:** January 30, 2018, 05:00:58 PM »

That oxidation will buff right out!

The good news is that you have everything there.

Stev-o · « **Reply #4 on:** January 30, 2018, 05:42:38 PM »

Quote from: SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan on January 30, 2018, 05:00:58 PM

That oxidation will buff right out!

The good news is that you have everything there.

*except exhaust

MauiK3 · « **Reply #5 on:** January 30, 2018, 07:34:14 PM »

What engine/frame number?
What a golden opportunity, making it as close to stock K0 as possible might be pricey but well worth it.
Do you know what color it was? Was it candy blue/green? My favorite.
If you go stock pipes make sure they are "no number" pipes, not 341's.
Lots of fun.
Steve

danyo · « **Reply #6 on:** January 30, 2018, 08:40:16 PM »

Subscribed

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

77379 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 31, 2018, 11:03:40 AM »

Hey Stev-o, Thanks, Unfortunately I think it’s going to take a little more than buffing to make it correct. 😩
Steve, I know it will be pricey - especially those correct pipes.💰
It still is wearing it’s original blue green, even has the original side covers with badges
E1011339 frame 1011541 (10/69)
I’ll post some more pictures when I get a little more into it.

Johnie · « **Reply #8 on:** January 31, 2018, 01:42:13 PM »

Nice to see those early ones are still out there to be had. Looks like a nice project! Good luck and keep us informed of the progress.

Stev-o · « **Reply #9 on:** January 31, 2018, 02:04:46 PM »

ok, 77279....James set the bar pretty high! Good luck...

Johnie · « **Reply #10 on:** January 31, 2018, 02:37:55 PM »

Since James started it...here's my KO when I pushed it home back in 2007. A year later she looks like this...for sure worth the effort and money as far as I am concerned. It was my first KO project and the others that followed...well...I just could not help myself.

77379 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 31, 2018, 05:35:09 PM »

You guys have all set the bar very high. I have seen those above pictures before and they helped motivate me to get this one started. I hope I can lean on you all for advice along the way. I started the tear down today and will continue tomorrow. Any suggestions on removing to side covers without breaking them. I pulled as hard as I thought I could without breaking them but they wouldn’t budge. Also, is there a good way to remove the data plate from the neck without tearing it up?
Gregg

Johnie · « **Reply #12 on:** January 31, 2018, 06:18:05 PM »

Side covers...spray some lube on the tabs. Then I push on the tabs from the back and push them out. They break easy if you try to bend it by pulling them out. So the secret is to push on each tab from the back. You can also heat the rubber that the tabs slide into with a hair dryer. That should soften them up a bit too. The data plate...are you going to blast the frame? If not just cover it before it gets sprayed. If you are going to blast that frame you could try to grind down the top of the rivets and slide it off. Just need to be very careful like if you are using a Dremel.

754 · « **Reply #13 on:** January 31, 2018, 07:16:44 PM »

You never pay too much, but sometimes you bought too early..
But you get to enjoy and use it now.. nice early diecast, a 69 to boot.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #14 on:** January 31, 2018, 11:37:22 PM »

Nice! Looks like you need a few "unobtainium" K0 parts to make it original again, but as has been said, good (properly restored all original) K0 prices are going thru the roof, just be prepared for some frightening prices!

lash · « **Reply #15 on:** February 01, 2018, 03:01:32 AM »

My before and after.. 11/69

lash · « **Reply #16 on:** February 01, 2018, 03:10:56 AM »

And its sister..

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #17 on:** February 01, 2018, 08:58:45 AM »

Those restored K0's are gorgeous.

JamesH · « **Reply #18 on:** February 01, 2018, 09:21:24 AM »

Quote from: 77379 on January 31, 2018, 05:35:09 PM

You guys have all set the bar very high. I have seen those above pictures before and they helped motivate me to get this one started. I hope I can lean on you all for advice along the way. I started the tear down today and will continue tomorrow. Any suggestions on removing to side covers without breaking them. I pulled as hard as I thought I could without breaking them but they wouldn’t budge. Also, is there a good way to remove the data plate from the neck without tearing it up?
Gregg

You'll be fine. Totally agree on the previous post re. side covers. Gently heat, always push from the back and then discard the old hard rubbers.

I personally leave the name plate riveted and mask very carefully (first with conventional masking tape (blue or green painters tape), then a second with duct/gorilla tape.

You can also gently lift the edges of the plate to ensure you get some paint coverage underneath the edges (to avoid an old/new witness line).

The VIN tags are both riveted and use an adhesive backing - difficult to remove without damaging the VIN tag.

Keep us posted on your progress...

James

77379 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 01, 2018, 12:48:07 PM »

Johnie, I’m not married and don’t have enough hair for a hair dryer but that was the method of removing the side covers I was thinking of using with a little WD40. I was also planning to media blast the frame and thought I’d be better off removing the VIN tag with the dremmel grinder so it didn’t get wrecked during blasting, I may tape a thin gauge piece of metal over it and go easy on that area.
I agree, the after pictures of the above K0s are gorgeous. Mine is a long way from that at this point but that is the ultimate goal.
I know some of the parts I need will be tough to come by and come at a high price but I’m hoping it will be worth it in the end, at least to me anyway.
I’m not sure I bought it too early, I wish I bought it a while ago and was riding it today.
Actually, I’m glad I did get it when I did, the previous owner was going to use the motor for a go cart.
I’m going to try again to remove those side covers and some other parts tonight.

Johnie · « **Reply #20 on:** February 01, 2018, 03:01:54 PM »

These KO's are becoming few and far between and you have to get them when you can find them. It would have been a shame for the PO to part it out. Did it come with a title?

77379 · « **Reply #21 on:** February 01, 2018, 03:13:17 PM »

No title but I have heard there is a way to get one from Vermont. I haven’t looked into that yet but I will. I had good and bad results with the side covers and air box. One side cover and the air box bottom had a previous cracks. One side cover had a broken mounting tab. I think I will need a new air filter also.

Stev-o · « **Reply #22 on:** February 01, 2018, 03:43:47 PM »

Quote from: 77379 on February 01, 2018, 03:13:17 PM

No title but I have heard there is a way to get one from Vermont.

No way to get a title from them but you can get a registration. PM me for details when you are ready, better to not discuss it on a public forum.

77379 · « **Reply #23 on:** March 24, 2018, 01:03:26 PM »

I finally finished with most of the black paint work. I first bead blasted everything, then primed with PPG primer surfaced. A little bit of sanding on the pitted areas and then shot with a PPG 9300 Concept acrylic single stage urethane. I used a flattener on the paint to bring the gloss down about ten percent because that seems to be the original gloss on these frames in the visible areas. The pure acrylic urethane looked a little too glossy. I’m happy with the way it turned out. It seems like every project becomes two projects. I go to bead blast and the blaster needs to be fixed first, I go to paint and the gun is missing in action. Two steps forward and one step back but I’m making slow but steady progress.

Sgt.Pinback · « **Reply #24 on:** March 24, 2018, 01:48:56 PM »

Good luck with the project!

Before and after KO pics

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Author Topic: CB750 Rebuild K0 (Read 4280 times)