I'd surely suggest using a NON-DETERGENT oil with it, as the gears of the countershaft may be buried in the oil. With the dry sump, this doesn't happen. It could, IMHO, cause significant drag on the countershaft gears, likely degrading high-RPM performance, unless the oil level in a running engine is studied to see how far down the level falls? I distinctly remember the guys who made 3/4" deep extension pans and fittings for the oil pumps to drop the pan oil further away from the countershaft in my old racing days: they also made [complicated] crankshaft baffles (aka windage trays) for the crank area. I don't have any results of their success/failure with the effort, though, as I moved out of Illinois that season and never talked with them afterward.
What are your plans here Hondaman..? Are you blending your own conventional formulation of AeroShell or GM Dexos2 oils, a semi synthetic and full synthetic oil. The Shell Aero-offering as a very low or no detergent oil premixed with Lycoming's 16702 load/press/wear additives. Or the Gm's gen 2 offering of no calcium detergents mixed with their own additives. The calcium detergent,some believe, is responsible for low speed full throttle pre-ignition in the newer direct injected gas engines. Some newer studies suggest the high detergent additives are counterproductive to the friction, load, wear additives. Most commercial diesels still recommend High Detergent Oil.
Since most non-detergent oils are only API rated SA, what additives do you have planned for the top end.?
good points sam but i dont believe for one second that it runs 20% cooler , 20% hotter more like . how can taking the oil out of a hot engine circulating it in a tank and then pumping it back into the engine make it run hotter than leaving it in the engine . the oil tank is just a very inefficient oil cooler , but an oil cooler it is not an oil heater .
+1 very good explanation.
And as already mention the oil tank may not be ideal in location or aesthetics. But neither locations, the tank ( behind a hot engine) or the wet sump (right above the exhaust header), are ideal at a stoplight. Once moving though I don't think either locations are detrimental.
I personally like the uniqueness of the dry sump system Honda used on the old 750. Its obvious also to the direction the manufacturers have taken. After witnessing a wet sump crotch rocket continuously wheeling while riding and passing till out of site on the interstate, I don't question the wet sumps capabilities.
My Hat is off to the Bert Jans, Mike Reicks, Mirkos types and others that provide us options for the dinosaurs we all love ❤️.. Thanks....