Topic: Somebody please help me before I lose it!

[Spanner 1]

Too high fuel level in bowls... triple check float height, sure it's 14.5mm for those carbs ?... also do all your floats float ?, no poss. of gas in 1 or 2 of them ?

[rangelov]

You said that your valve gaps were in spec.

I suggest opening up the gap another .001 - .002.  That may or may not help.  But it might if your seats aren't perfect.  It will reduce your effective cam timing ever so slightly.  Might make it easier to tune.  Might reduce the possibility of burned valves.

FWIW

[Old75_ratafe]

Makes sense, I know on car engines of you tighten the rockers to much they will stay open and you get a back fire or no fire situation (or just run like crap)

[TwoTired]

Why is it you cannot get an even and consistent vacuum sync across all four carbs?

If you change the valve clearance you need to re-sync the carbs.

What size main jet is in the carbs.  Have they been drilled?
What is the slide needle setting?
What size pilot jet do you have?
Have you checked the actual fuel level in the carbs?
What setting Idle Mixture screws set to?
Did you alter the air jets in the inlet mouth of the carbs?

Describe the deposits on the center electrode insulator.  Is is the same for each cylinder?

Which four into four exhausts are you using, the 77-78 or prior year?  Do they have holes?

Don't worry about the spark event when switching the ign. on or off.  (Unless you are switching it while riding.)

[anchorweight550]

In response to TT

What size main jet is in the carbs.  Have they been drilled?

they are 96's, i switched back to the 4-4's and stock air box (mine had holes drilled in the bottom)

What is the slide needle setting?

needle height was the second groove from the top, dropped the needle to make it leaner, and what do you know? bike idles great, revs great, no hang ups. I feel it may be running a little lean in the upper mid range but Im thinking the 96 main should help it out along with the oil cooler, correct me if im wrong. spark plug deposits at idle are still black, but from what Ive read the bike is supposed to run rich at idle. Did a plug chop at midrange, I think I needed to run it longer to rid the electrode insulator of the carbon buildup, but on some I could seat spots of a cream white color.

Have you checked the actual fuel level in the carbs?

yes checked both float height and rubber tube method. Fuel was a little below the lip of the float bowl, maybe 1mm or 2mm

What size pilot jet do you have?

42, I have an aftermarket set from SCI and the stock set, which upon further inspection look a little bent. Neither had any great affect on idling when I was having trouble.

What setting Idle Mixture screws set to?

1 1/2 turns out from seated

Did you alter the air jets in the inlet mouth of the carbs?

nope

all deposits the same on each cylinder and I am using the later pipes with the later carbs

[anchorweight550]

ok so this is my theory:

I put the needles back to the stock 2nd highest clip position. It still ran fine. Weird. I had a little fuel in the tank, so I went to refill it at the gas station. THATS when it started running all weird again. Burbling out at stop lights, and hanging revs ( I think because I kept having to crank the idle adjuster to keep it running somewhat) Although the bowls have not been spewing fuel I feel there is way too much fuel getting into the bowl. So im thinking the added pressure from a full tank of gas is pressing on the float valves. I did notice they had tiny tiny lines in them but nothing I thought I had to worry about. Im thinking im wrong? Its good to finally find the smoking gun in this situation. Anybody know where I can get a new set of float needles? (not for close to 30$ as thats what honda wants for them) I would go through parts n more but that 35$ minimum kinda blows.

[TwoTired]

You're not willing to pay $30 to have your bike run properly?

I don't think there is much hope then...

[anchorweight550]

haha im a broke art student! anyways I didnt want to get the needle valves and have to buy something I didnt need at parts n more, seems they dont have too much for the 550 anyways. I ended up getting a set from sirius con inc their "best needle valves on the market" and "better than OEM" claim sold me. We will see. It was 30$ and there is still hope!

[rangelov]

Let us know how it goes.

There is always something to be learned.......for all of us.

[anchorweight550]

and what I meant to say was 30 friggin dollars a piece for just a float valve. I mean I honestly believe in most cases you get what you pay for. Honda OEM are really great and all but sometimes I feel whatever messes up on my bike is the smallest and yet most expensive fix. Well I guess "care free" and "piece of mind" are what your really paying for, and I will admit, its worth it for the most part.

[TwoTired]

and what I meant to say was 30 friggin dollars a piece for just a float valve. I mean I honestly believe in most cases you get what you pay for. Honda OEM are really great and all but sometimes I feel whatever messes up on my bike is the smallest and yet most expensive fix. Well I guess "care free" and "piece of mind" are what your really paying for, and I will admit, its worth it for the most part.

...AND...
If you want Honda to continue offering parts, buy parts from them.

Rest assured any parts that Honda doesn't offer, will become higher priced by aftermarket vendors and/or the quality will become questionable/variable/unpredictable, as well.

How much can *you* make the parts for?  Perhaps you can create a lucrative business?

Cheers,