Topic: '71 CB500 Four Scrambler

[754]

 Please notch the rear tray mount , to match the frame curve, lt will look killer....

[DurangoCB]

Here you go.  I have a sheet metal shear that made cutting it out really easy and then made the bends with a rubber mallet and a large bench vise. 

[DurangoCB]

Please notch the rear tray mount , to match the frame curve, lt will look killer....

That’s a good idea!  The bolt hole is in the way though.

[DurangoCB]

Welding is hard. Even harder with a $99 flux core welder. But nobody’s gonna be looking under the seat, I figure.

[Stev-o]

We're looking!   Why did you put those angle pieces in there?

[DurangoCB]

We're looking!   Why did you put those angle pieces in there?

Ah, the million-penny question.  I wanted to run a bead on the inside corners but I couldn't make it happen with that welder.  It blows out the 22-gauge sheet way too easily.  And I just couldn't bring myself to take it to a random muffler shop to have it TIG welded-  DIY ethic and all. 

With the angles, I was able to just tack weld and leave the outside corners looking pretty. 

[calj737]

We're looking!   Why did you put those angle pieces in there?

Ah, the million-penny question.  I wanted to run a bead on the inside corners but I couldn't make it happen with that welder.  It blows out the 22-gauge sheet way too easily.  And I just couldn't bring myself to take it to a random muffler shop to have it TIG welded-  DIY ethic and all. 

With the angles, I was able to just tack weld and leave the outside corners looking pretty.

When you weld thin sheet, the fit must be perfect else you’ll get that blow out. Next time, use some aluminum angle iron on the outside as a backer, then lay your weld in. Always weld downhill with thin sheet too; it keeps the heat above and bead from over cooking the base metal. The ally angle will also act as a heat sink to draw some hotness out.

[DurangoCB]

Thanks cal. Makes sense- I’ll play around with some scrap and see if i can get that tek down for next time.

[calj737]

Flux core is not very good at thin sheet metal. It’s really opposite of its intended application. But if it’s all you have, then it’s what you have. Also try using a thinner wire (0.025) versus 0.030 or 0.035. That will produce less heat as well. Better still, by a DC TIG box and a MIG. Leave the flux core stuff for the farm welding.

[Pin2Hot]

Silicon bronze brazing rod and a gas torch?

[DurangoCB]

Thanks guys- if I could afford a TIG welder, that’s what I’d do. I’m actually really interested in welding now, but I only have room for so many hobbies.

Spent about 60 minutes tonight sanding and polishing this fork leg. 

[Scramps]

Pretty shiny!

[DurangoCB]

Was time to drop the engine and finally got a better look at the oily mess under the sprocket cover.  At first glance it looks like a shifter spindle seal failure, but I'll clean it tomorrow and get a closer look. 

[DurangoCB]

And dropping the engine wasn't as simple as it sounded.  It wasn't the weight but the fit.  I removed the oil filter cover, but it sure seemed like removing the breather cover would make it easier.  Or the oil pan.  Or the exhaust studs. 

Tomorrow I'm going to remove the last two chainguard tabs, weld in the new seat hoop and work on prepping the frame for powder. 

And for the record, polishing the left side fork lowers was a 3 hour job, which is 3x longer than the right side lower took, thanks to the additional caliper bracket mounts and the fact that the factory didn't bother smoothing out the metal under/around the caliper at all. 

[Hasenkopf]

if you cut the end of that frame off, make sure you save it in case some poor slob needs one to fix their bike.

[seanbarney41]

if you cut the end of that frame off, make sure you save it in case some poor slob needs one to fix their bike.

yup, couple more years and the brat trend goes bye bye... gonna be lots of poor slobs wishing they had an unwacked frame

[DurangoCB]

It so hard to resist taking a piss, ain't it?

People have been modifying motorcycles for 100 years, taking a motorcycle that isn't what they want to ride and turning it into something that is.  Even if I were in the market for a brand new bike, I wouldn't choose a heavy one with buckhorn bars and giant brake light assemblies and turn signals.  And I'm not looking for those things in a vintage bike.   

I'm looking for a bike I can pick up for under $1,000, replace or restore 75% of the bike for another $1,000, including updating the POS fire-hazard electrical system, and end up with a bike that I want to ride. 

As far as I'm concerned, every modification I'm making to my bike is an improvement.  You disagree, I get it.  If running these bikes bone stock is your thing, knock yourself out.  If I swing by your project thread, I'll try to be helpful rather than taking a dump on what you choose to build. 

[calj737]

In proper condition, the electrical systems on these bikes is really reliable, and rather good. Just saying...

[seanbarney41]

Ok, so you are certainly allowed to chop off useful parts of your cb500 and throw them away so that they can never be used by anyone .  I get that, but I don't understand why you are so sensitive to criticism.  Are you really concerned with what the internet thinks of your motorcycle modification choices?  You are more than welcome to dig up any of my threads and make any comments you like.   You may find that I have never owned a bone stock motorcycle and I encourage forum members to criticize what has been done.  And I  apologize for any offense you have taken to my comments.

[Stev-o]

In proper condition, the electrical systems on these bikes is really reliable, and rather good. Just saying...

+1....the only "POS fire-hazard electrical system" issue I've had was on my Kawasaki 500, dumbass PO removed the main fuse holder and I smoked the ignition wiring.

If I struggled with electrical, the last thing I would do is replace the reliable stock wiring harness.  Just sayin'...

[DurangoCB]

OK, fair enough.  Maybe by this forum's standards and culture, I'm being sensitive.  I have to wonder how it would come across though if we all commented on every stock bike, "Nice bike... shame you haven't gotten rid of the huge turn signals."  Pretty sure you'd see some grumpy dudes getting even grumpier. 

As for the electrical, I overstated its weaknesses to make a point, but I do think the old electrical system when compared to new technology is a compromise, both in reliability and function.   

I'm not throwing any parts away.  In fact, I'm funding the project partly by selling off the old used stuff.  If anyone wants the tail end of my bike, it will be available to anyone who wants to pay shipping. 

[Moto nut]

I say chop away! It’s your bike, damm the torpedoes, let em eat cake, etc etc etc....enjoy

[DurangoCB]

I say chop away! It’s your bike, damm the torpedoes, let em eat cake, etc etc etc....enjoy

It’s too late to turn back now!  Angle Grinder Mafia already dropped in.

[DurangoCB]

Cleaning and polishing. Starting to prep the engine for paint (Duplicolor engine).

I have an engine oil seal kit on the way. Shift rod seal needs to be replaced so I’ll just replace as many as I can easily get to. Open to suggestion on that! 

Anyone have an opinion about whether I should repair the crack in the left crank case cover (see last photo)?  If so, should I JB Weld it?  Outside and sand it down or inside just for structural soundness?

 

[calj737]

Ouch!

That needs some real work to be made right. Perhaps weld it from inside and out, grind down the outside, then re-polish that area. Use 5356 or 4943 wire for better results on matching the cast and polishing up.