Topic: What did you do to your non-motorcycle vehicle today?

[Don R]

 Here's the mock-up of the Firebirds latest edition of exhaust pipes, the muffler will turn inward 5* and straighten with a welded tube turn. I'll do a little polishing on the 304 stainless mufflers.

[grcamna2]

Here's the mock-up of the Firebirds latest edition of exhaust pipes, the muffler will turn inward 5* and straighten with a welded tube turn. I'll do a little polishing on the 304 stainless mufflers.

You've got your work cut out for you Don.

[BenelliSEI]

Finished up assembling all the bits for the remote fuel surge tank. Fitting, plumbing and wiring it to the LEXUS race car is next. In theory, this should help us to use ALL the fuel in the 24 gallon cell.

[Stev-o]

In theory...

Hey John...curious about this "theory"!  Does the surge tank have a pump?

[BenelliSEI]

In theory...

Hey John...curious about this "theory"!  Does the surge tank have a pump?

Yes…. The “cylindrical “ part with the red (+) and blue (-) terminals is a high pressure fuel pump. I added a fitting to the base of the pump so it is drawing from the bottom 3/4” of the tank. This small tank feeds the fuel rail on the straight six engine, with a return to the small tank. The original pump that’s down stream of the 24 gallon fuel cell now feeds directly to the small tank. There is also a return line to the big tank.

“In theory” the main pump keeps the little tank full and when the big cell gets low and the pump sucks some air on a corner, the little tank keeps the engine happy. It then gets topped up on the next straight away…… we’ll be testing at Shannonville on the 18th. In the past, when we had less than 4 gallons in the main tank, we would experience low fuel pressure in the really long, fast, sweeping corners. This should eliminate that problem.

[grcamna2]

In theory...

Hey John...curious about this "theory"!  Does the surge tank have a pump?

Yes…. The “cylindrical “ part with the red (+) and blue (-) terminals is a high pressure fuel pump. I added a fitting to the base of the pump so it is drawing from the bottom 3/4” of the tank. This small tank feeds the fuel rail on the straight six engine, with a return to the small tank. The original pump that’s down stream of the 24 gallon fuel cell now feeds directly to the small tank. There is also a return line to the big tank.

“In theory” the main pump keeps the little tank full and when the big cell gets low and the pump sucks some air on a corner, the little tank keeps the engine happy. It then gets topped up on the next straight away…… we’ll be testing at Shannonville on the 18th. In the past, when we had less than 4 gallons in the main tank, we would experience low fuel pressure in the really long, fast, sweeping corners. This should eliminate that problem.

John, does it have a sensor to let you know when your main tank is bone dry,then you have just enough fuel to make it around to the pits ?

[BenelliSEI]

In theory...

Hey John...curious about this "theory"!  Does the surge tank have a pump?

Yes…. The “cylindrical “ part with the red (+) and blue (-) terminals is a high pressure fuel pump. I added a fitting to the base of the pump so it is drawing from the bottom 3/4” of the tank. This small tank feeds the fuel rail on the straight six engine, with a return to the small tank. The original pump that’s down stream of the 24 gallon fuel cell now feeds directly to the small tank. There is also a return line to the big tank.

“In theory” the main pump keeps the little tank full and when the big cell gets low and the pump sucks some air on a corner, the little tank keeps the engine happy. It then gets topped up on the next straight away…… we’ll be testing at Shannonville on the 18th. In the past, when we had less than 4 gallons in the main tank, we would experience low fuel pressure in the really long, fast, sweeping corners. This should eliminate that problem.

John, does it have a sensor to let you know when your main tank is bone dry,then you have just enough fuel to make it around to the pits ?

No. Only “low fuel pressure” message to the MOTEC electronic dash when the fuel rail on the engine goes below 45psi. We’ll track test in a few weeks, with 5 gallons in the tank. If we get +20-25 minutes, then I’m confident we’ll get 2 hours on a full tank……

[dave500]

you racers always have everything under control!Ive had a timing case/harmonic seal leak on my holden few a few months now,Ive got two weeks off holiday so thought I better fix it,I did this seal bout 6 years ago,the balancer shaft is slightly grooved and looks the same as it did last time I replaced this seal,I spun some fine wet n dry around it,I have a speedy sleeve but didnt use it as test fitting I didnt like how it had a tiny edge that could snag the seal as the balancer is put back on,the balancer gets onto its keyway before it encounters the seal so you cant wobble it on clean,anyway my new ryobi biggest one they make battery impact gun is too long to get onto the bolt with out pulling the radiator,so because Im lazy and glad I kept my old air one I shortened a 15/16 socket for the job,another one for the cool tools section?

[BenelliSEI]

you racers always have everything under control!Ive had a timing case/harmonic seal leak on my holden few a few months now,Ive got two weeks off holiday so thought I better fix it,I did this seal bout 6 years ago,the balancer shaft is slightly grooved and looks the same as it did last time I replaced this seal,I spun some fine wet n dry around it,I have a speedy sleeve but didnt use it as test fitting I didnt like how it had a tiny edge that could snag the seal as the balancer is put back on,the balancer gets onto its keyway before it encounters the seal so you cant wobble it on clean,anyway my new ryobi biggest one they make battery impact gun is too long to get onto the bolt with out pulling the radiator,so because Im lazy and glad I kept my old air one I shortened a 15/16 socket for the job,another one for the cool tools section?

Dave…… Definately nice work and a “cool tool” for sure!

[grcamna2]

you racers always have everything under control!Ive had a timing case/harmonic seal leak on my holden few a few months now,Ive got two weeks off holiday so thought I better fix it,I did this seal bout 6 years ago,the balancer shaft is slightly grooved and looks the same as it did last time I replaced this seal,I spun some fine wet n dry around it,I have a speedy sleeve but didnt use it as test fitting I didnt like how it had a tiny edge that could snag the seal as the balancer is put back on,the balancer gets onto its keyway before it encounters the seal so you cant wobble it on clean,anyway my new ryobi biggest one they make battery impact gun is too long to get onto the bolt with out pulling the radiator,so because Im lazy and glad I kept my old air one I shortened a 15/16 socket for the job,another one for the cool tools section?

Dave…… Definately nice work and a “cool tool” for sure!

+1

[Kelly E]

I've had the same worry about cutting the new seal. It doesn't take much to knock the sharp edge off the Speedi-Sleeve before installing the balancer.

[dave500]

I have another balancer with a worse grooved snout,I might fit it and see as a spare?

[Don R]

 My 40 chevy left a couple drips on the floor where the new master cylinder sits, I assumed that I screwed up a double flare, but it seems to be a bleeder screw on the M/C leaking and an engine oil drip hanging off the back of the transmission. The timing cover is still leaking in spite of me trying to seal it from the outside using vacuum and silicone. Now I'm planning to pull the oil pan and front cover and replace at least the front timing cover. I'll use the new style fel pro one piece rubber gasket. If the radiator needs to come out, I'll pull the entire front clip and install the Toyota headlights at that time.

[BenelliSEI]

Finished up the remote fuel reservoir. The primary pump from the 24 gallon cell keeps the little tank full. The return line from the engine fuel rail also comes back to the little tank. When full, it over flows to the main tank. The pump in the little tank keeps the fuel rail full. Need to tidy up some lines and loose wiring, but it all works.

In theory, when we get down to the last few gallons in the big cell, the race car should never stumble (the way it does now for the last 5-6 laps of a two hour stint). Off to a test day on Monday to see how well it performs on low fuel levels.

[grcamna2]

Finished up the remote fuel reservoir. The primary pump from the 24 gallon cell keeps the little tank full. The return line from the engine fuel rail also comes back to the little tank. When full, it over flows to the main tank. The pump in the little tank keeps the fuel rail full. Need to tidy up some lines and loose wiring, but it all works.

In theory, when we get down to the last few gallons in the big cell, the race car should never stumble (the way it does now for the last 5-6 laps of a two hour stint). Off to a test day on Monday to see how well it performs on low fuel levels.

Looks like a nice system 

[BenelliSEI]

Looks like a nice system 

If it works, I’ll be pleased! We divide our 8 hour Enduros into 2 hour stints/ 4 drivers.
If the track stays green for two hours, we are having fuel pickup (misfires and stumbling) for the last 10-12 minutes. This tank should change that.

[Don R]

  Be sure the charging system can handle the amp draw, our drag car had trouble feeding the EFI and large dual fuel pumps. With the carb back on, single fuel pump and my previous alternator improvements it doesn't need a re-charge between rounds now.

[BenelliSEI]

Don.....the LEXUS also has an electric pump pushing oil from the diff through a cooler! It seems to be more than adequate We actually slowed the alternator down with a pulley swap. Will check at the test day.

[Stev-o]

Finished up the remote fuel reservoir. The primary pump from the 24 gallon cell keeps the little tank full. The return line from the engine fuel rail also comes back to the little tank. When full, it over flows to the main tank. The pump in the little tank keeps the fuel rail full. Need to tidy up some lines and loose wiring, but it all works.

In theory, when we get down to the last few gallons in the big cell, the race car should never stumble (the way it does now for the last 5-6 laps of a two hour stint). Off to a test day on Monday to see how well it performs on low fuel levels.

Thanks for the explanation, John.  I've heard it is a fairly common problem, especially during sprint races, the fuel gets low and during certain corners, fuel flow is an issue.

On a different note, a buddy was leading a race in Chicago and suddenly sputtered to a stop.  Turns out, he and/or his crew failed to fill the fuel tank to the amount needed for the sprint race!  Duh!!

[BenelliSEI]

Finished up the remote fuel reservoir. The primary pump from the 24 gallon cell keeps the little tank full. The return line from the engine fuel rail also comes back to the little tank. When full, it over flows to the main tank. The pump in the little tank keeps the fuel rail full. Need to tidy up some lines and loose wiring, but it all works.

In theory, when we get down to the last few gallons in the big cell, the race car should never stumble (the way it does now for the last 5-6 laps of a two hour stint). Off to a test day on Monday to see how well it performs on low fuel levels.

Thanks for the explanation, John.  I've heard it is a fairly common problem, especially during sprint races, the fuel gets low and during certain corners, fuel flow is an issue.

On a different note, a buddy was leading a race in Chicago and suddenly sputtered to a stop.  Turns out, he and/or his crew failed to fill the fuel tank to the amount needed for the sprint race!  Duh!!

“Been there, done that” The one time I drove a friend’s S2000 Lola sports racer he was sure he had topped it up. Ran out on the last lap, leading the race…..

[BenelliSEI]

Finished up race prep today. Off to a test day, Monday afternoon, at Shannonville. Pulled out the heavy twin cooling fans behind the rad on the LEXUS (you can just see them in the corner of the photo). They never come on, we have an huge alloy radiator and the oil cooler is massive too. Car runs 190F all day long, at speed. They just block air flow.

Also gave the car a long overdue bath! Installed new tires and brake pads and we’re “good to go” No rides this week though.

[Tintop]

Finished up the remote fuel reservoir. The primary pump from the 24 gallon cell keeps the little tank full. The return line from the engine fuel rail also comes back to the little tank. When full, it over flows to the main tank. The pump in the little tank keeps the fuel rail full. Need to tidy up some lines and loose wiring, but it all works.

In theory, when we get down to the last few gallons in the big cell, the race car should never stumble (the way it does now for the last 5-6 laps of a two hour stint). Off to a test day on Monday to see how well it performs on low fuel levels.

Thanks for the explanation, John.  I've heard it is a fairly common problem, especially during sprint races, the fuel gets low and during certain corners, fuel flow is an issue.

On a different note, a buddy was leading a race in Chicago and suddenly sputtered to a stop.  Turns out, he and/or his crew failed to fill the fuel tank to the amount needed for the sprint race!  Duh!!

“Been there, done that” The one time I drove a friend’s S2000 Lola sports racer he was sure he had topped it up. Ran out on the last lap, leading the race…..

Have you ever tried packing fuel in dry ice to increase volume?  I did that with the dual engine kart for longer races as the tank capacity was marginal.  Only issue was having to sit longer than normal on the grid waiting to start.  The sun's heat would start to warm the fuel tank and a fine vapour would start to come from the vent as it expanded.

[BenelliSEI]

Finished up the remote fuel reservoir. The primary pump from the 24 gallon cell keeps the little tank full. The return line from the engine fuel rail also comes back to the little tank. When full, it over flows to the main tank. The pump in the little tank keeps the fuel rail full. Need to tidy up some lines and loose wiring, but it all works.

In theory, when we get down to the last few gallons in the big cell, the race car should never stumble (the way it does now for the last 5-6 laps of a two hour stint). Off to a test day on Monday to see how well it performs on low fuel levels.

Thanks for the explanation, John.  I've heard it is a fairly common problem, especially during sprint races, the fuel gets low and during certain corners, fuel flow is an issue.

On a different note, a buddy was leading a race in Chicago and suddenly sputtered to a stop.  Turns out, he and/or his crew failed to fill the fuel tank to the amount needed for the sprint race!  Duh!!

“Been there, done that” The one time I drove a friend’s S2000 Lola sports racer he was sure he had topped it up. Ran out on the last lap, leading the race…..

Have you ever tried packing fuel in dry ice to increase volume?  I did that with the dual engine kart for longer races as the tank capacity was marginal.  Only issue was having to sit longer than normal on the grid waiting to start.  The sun's heat would start to warm the fuel tank and a fine vapour would start to come from the vent as it expanded.

Seen it done, but we usually run two X eight hour races in a weekend, so not sure how practical?

[scottly]

Finished up the remote fuel reservoir. The primary pump from the 24 gallon cell keeps the little tank full. The return line from the engine fuel rail also comes back to the little tank. When full, it over flows to the main tank. The pump in the little tank keeps the fuel rail full. Need to tidy up some lines and loose wiring, but it all works.

In theory, when we get down to the last few gallons in the big cell, the race car should never stumble (the way it does now for the last 5-6 laps of a two hour stint). Off to a test day on Monday to see how well it performs on low fuel levels.

John, have you heard of Hydramats?
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/hydramat/

[simon#42]

they look like a good idea .