Topic: What did you do to your non-motorcycle vehicle today?

[Don R]

What engine/trans/rear drive do you run Don ?

 It has an aftermarket block by dart, it takes big block Chevrolet type parts but there aren't any chevy parts in it. 567 cubic inches, single 4-barrel intake with a Holley Sniper EFI. Somewhere near a Thousand HP, it has a 9" torque converter in an ATI aftermarket powerglide shorty case, The rear end is unusual, being a 12 bolt chevy with Oldsmobile outer ends, narrowed and braced, with 35 spline axles and Mark Williams internals. The 12 bolt has less resistance to turning than a 9" ford but isn't quite as strong by design. We broke the first gear set with no case damage, it turned out to be street gears.
 The car was originally built for a V6 Buick or a small block chevrolet. We lengthened it, braced it and installed rear suspension. It also had the small airplane tires in the front which were the fashion of the day when it was built. We got a set of Weld 17" front wheels and Hoosier tires. It runs a 33/16.5 soft sidewall wide slick on 15x15" rims.

[grcamna2]

What engine/trans/rear drive do you run Don ?

 It has an aftermarket block by dart, it takes big block Chevrolet type parts but there aren't any chevy parts in it. 567 cubic inches, single 4-barrel intake with a Holley Sniper EFI. Somewhere near a Thousand HP, it has a 9" torque converter in an ATI aftermarket powerglide shorty case, The rear end is unusual, being a 12 bolt chevy with Oldsmobile outer ends, narrowed and braced, with 35 spline axles and Mark Williams internals. The 12 bolt has less resistance to turning than a 9" ford but isn't quite as strong by design. We broke the first gear set with no case damage, it turned out to be street gears.
 The car was originally built for a V6 Buick or a small block chevrolet. We lengthened it, braced it and installed rear suspension. It also had the small airplane tires in the front which were the fashion of the day when it was built. We got a set of Weld 17" front wheels and Hoosier tires. It runs a 33/16.5 soft sidewall wide slick on 15x15" rims.

A 567 c.i. 
Does your transmission shift on it's own,or do you program it ?

[Tracksnblades1]

What engine/trans/rear drive do you run Don ?

 It has an aftermarket block by dart, it takes big block Chevrolet type parts but there aren't any chevy parts in it. 567 cubic inches, single 4-barrel intake with a Holley Sniper EFI. Somewhere near a Thousand HP, it has a 9" torque converter in an ATI aftermarket powerglide shorty case, The rear end is unusual, being a 12 bolt chevy with Oldsmobile outer ends, narrowed and braced, with 35 spline axles and Mark Williams internals. The 12 bolt has less resistance to turning than a 9" ford but isn't quite as strong by design. We broke the first gear set with no case damage, it turned out to be street gears.
 The car was originally built for a V6 Buick or a small block chevrolet. We lengthened it, braced it and installed rear suspension. It also had the small airplane tires in the front which were the fashion of the day when it was built. We got a set of Weld 17" front wheels and Hoosier tires. It runs a 33/16.5 soft sidewall wide slick on 15x15" rims.

A 567 c.i. 
Does your transmission shift on it's own,or do you program it ?

Don will be the one who knows for sure.

But I’ll guess with a thousand horse power, he’s got a manual only valve body on the glide. Maybe a tachometer triggered upshift if track conditions allow. Probably not. If it spun out in low and shifted up it could get really wild in a nano-second.

Old GM power glides “wide open throttle” (no vacuum) up shifts were controlled by the governor, if the transmission kick down linkage was adjusted properly. If adjusted properly the valve body relied on the transmission governor (weights and springs) to initiate the max rpm shift. Which was adjustable too, by lightening the weights and/or stiffening the govern spring… part throttle upshifts  were controlled by the vacuum modulator and the linkage depending on the manifold vacuum. You could probably google the power glide oil flow chart to see it…way back they had a cable kit to get rid of all the linkages and bell cranks for the power glides. Which really helped with engine and trans swaps for the street machines.

Edit: Interesting tid bit…
Power glide parasitic loss stock 17 horsepower.
350 turbo.   “.               “Stock 38 horsepower.
400 turbo.   “.               “Stock 52 horsepower.
M22 rock crusher w/30w engine oil 4th gear… hard to measure…less than1 hp…🤔
Learned this the hard way…

[grcamna2]

What engine/trans/rear drive do you run Don ?

 It has an aftermarket block by dart, it takes big block Chevrolet type parts but there aren't any chevy parts in it. 567 cubic inches, single 4-barrel intake with a Holley Sniper EFI. Somewhere near a Thousand HP, it has a 9" torque converter in an ATI aftermarket powerglide shorty case, The rear end is unusual, being a 12 bolt chevy with Oldsmobile outer ends, narrowed and braced, with 35 spline axles and Mark Williams internals. The 12 bolt has less resistance to turning than a 9" ford but isn't quite as strong by design. We broke the first gear set with no case damage, it turned out to be street gears.
 The car was originally built for a V6 Buick or a small block chevrolet. We lengthened it, braced it and installed rear suspension. It also had the small airplane tires in the front which were the fashion of the day when it was built. We got a set of Weld 17" front wheels and Hoosier tires. It runs a 33/16.5 soft sidewall wide slick on 15x15" rims.

A 567 c.i. 
Does your transmission shift on it's own,or do you program it ?

Don will be the one who knows for sure.

But I’ll guess with a thousand horse power, he’s got a manual only valve body on the glide. Maybe a tachometer triggered upshift if track conditions allow. Probably not. If it spun out in low and shifted up it could get really wild in a nano-second.

Old GM power glides “wide open throttle” (no vacuum) up shifts were controlled by the governor, if the transmission kick down linkage was adjusted properly. If adjusted properly the valve body relied on the transmission governor (weights and springs) to initiate the max rpm shift. Which was adjustable too, by lightening the weights and/or stiffening the govern spring… part throttle upshifts  were controlled by the vacuum modulator and the linkage depending on the manifold vacuum. You could probably google the power glide oil flow chart to see it…way back they had a cable kit to get rid of all the linkages and bell cranks for the power glides. Which really helped with engine and trans swaps for the street machines.

Edit: Interesting tid bit…
Power glide parasitic loss stock 17 horsepower.
350 turbo.   “.               “Stock 38 horsepower.
400 turbo.   “.               “Stock 52 horsepower.
M22 rock crusher w/30w engine oil 4th gear… hard to measure…less than1 hp…🤔
Learned this the hard way…

Very cool 

[Don R]

  We usually slow down to run the 8.90 class since it's a heads up start on a pro tree. 3 yellows at once and you launch from the transmission brake. That puts it in drive and reverse to lock it so it sits there running against the torque converter. When doing that it launches at 5800 rpm set electronically by the ignition and runs wide open for only 0.2 seconds. Then it runs on a timer and an air cylinder powered throttle stop pre-adjusted to 4200 rpm for around 2.10 seconds, it shifts by an air cylinder while on the throttle stop at 0.7 seconds and then re-launches to run full speed to the 1/4 mile. Hopefully you get there first and don't go quicker than 8.90 seconds.
  When running the quick 16 or bracket classes, it's a sportsman tree where you see yellow, yellow, yellow, green. If you are still sitting there at the green you are late already. In that case we shift by the same air shifter set by RPM at 7600, or on time. If I recall correctly at 2.4 seconds. The car on a really good day will run high 7.30's at a tad over 180 mph.

[Don R]

 A million ways to screw it up and only one way to get it right. ^
 We also predict our performance with a laptop program and a weather station. If it breaks or runs lousy we just go home and try to fix it before the next race. At this point I don't carry a lot of spare parts.

[grcamna2]

A million ways to screw it up and only one way to get it right. ^
 We also predict our performance with a laptop program and a weather station. If it breaks or runs lousy we just go home and try to fix it before the next race. At this point I don't carry a lot of spare parts.

Seems like you 'have it down to a science' Don 

[Don R]

 A lot of other guys have it down to a science also.

[grcamna2]

  We usually slow down to run the 8.90 class since it's a heads up start on a pro tree. 3 yellows at once and you launch from the transmission brake. That puts it in drive and reverse to lock it so it sits there running against the torque converter. When doing that it launches at 5800 rpm set electronically by the ignition and runs wide open for only 0.2 seconds. Then it runs on a timer and an air cylinder powered throttle stop pre-adjusted to 4200 rpm for around 2.10 seconds, it shifts by an air cylinder while on the throttle stop at 0.7 seconds and then re-launches to run full speed to the 1/4 mile. Hopefully you get there first and don't go quicker than 8.90 seconds.
  When running the quick 16 or bracket classes, it's a sportsman tree where you see yellow, yellow, yellow, green. If you are still sitting there at the green you are late already. In that case we shift by the same air shifter set by RPM at 7600, or on time. If I recall correctly at 2.4 seconds. The car on a really good day will run high 7.30's at a tad over 180 mph.

It must be a complete Blast to drive.

[Don R]

 It is a blast, wide open it goes zero to 60mph in 1.08 seconds and that happens in 60 feet or 3 car lengths. The 383 small block pulled hard to 330 feet, this big block keeps you back in the seat for the entire 1/4 mile. Data says it pulls 2.8G's at the start.
 Today my son in law is stopping by after work to set the fiberglass body aside, the chassis certification guy is coming in the morning to give it a new 3 year stamp. We certify it one rating faster than it goes, 6.00 cert and we run above 7.50 most of the time.
  I have new CFE heads that are supposedly the same as the old ones except without the porosity and cracks. I'm anxious to see what they can do wide open. If I had known that they were going to build me a set of heads that my T&D rocker arms or anyone else's, don't fit, I would have bought some off the shelf Brodix heads. It was a case of, spend a little more to get it right and oops, spend a little more and oops, spend a little more. Good money after bad.
  Now I have heads with a bad reputation and oddball custom rocker arms for a different head.

  I bet Nitrohunter has some good acceleration numbers that make these look slow. 

[Kelly E]

Today I'm working on installing the mounting tabs on the driveway rake so it pins to the bottom of the box scraper on the tractor .The rear mounting tabs are the challenge. The inner tab on the rear needs to be in the small triangle between the front and rear blades. One more alteration to them and it should fit.

[70CB750]

Today I'm working on installing the mounting tabs on the driveway rake so it pins to the bottom of the box scraper on the tractor .The rear mounting tabs are the challenge. The inner tab on the rear needs to be in the small triangle between the front and rear blades. One more alteration to them and it should fit.

Is it for flattening the driveway?   Rcently I spread several tons of 21a in our driveway and boy is it bumpy.  Still it sure how to fix it. 

[Kelly E]

Today I'm working on installing the mounting tabs on the driveway rake so it pins to the bottom of the box scraper on the tractor .The rear mounting tabs are the challenge. The inner tab on the rear needs to be in the small triangle between the front and rear blades. One more alteration to them and it should fit.

Is it for flattening the driveway?   Rcently I spread several tons of 21a in our driveway and boy is it bumpy.  Still it sure how to fix it.

Yes it will help keep it flat and keep the gravel from being packed into the dirt. It will have 72 2" long spikes to keep the top layer loose and looking good. I'll try to remember to post the results on how well it works. A buddy delivered some stuff to a house with a really nice driveway and asked if she had spread crushed rock recently. She said it had been 6 years since she bought crushed rock because she had a driveway rake to keep it maintained.
It better work, I've got a bunch of time and about $300 in materials into building it.

[BenelliSEI]

Kelly….. does that frame sink down with all the two inch spikes in the ground?

[dave500]

havent really needed to use any dash cam footage till today,lady in car park hit a car and left,i got her rego and left a note on the damaged car,he rang me thankful etc,i sent him stills,let the cops deal with it.

[Kelly E]

Kelly….. does that frame sink down with all the two inch spikes in the ground?

It will because it attaches to the bottom of the box scraper that weighs a little over 300lbs. It breaks up the upper layer of crushed rock and is supposed to keep it groomed like crushed rock was recently spread.
We have a quarter mile of dirt road down to the pavement. There's a bunch of crushed rock pounded in that I hope to loosen up and bring to the surface so the road stays nice.
I plan on using the rake after the neighbor uses his bigger tractor with a 72" land plane. It should keep the road nice for a long time without buying crushed rock all the time.

[Gurp]

Threw the battery charger on the 61.
I need to do it every so often if I make a lot of short trips in it. Really should upgrade it to a 1 wire alternator and solve that issue.

Sent from my LE2127 using Tapatalk

[ofreen]

Yes it will help keep it flat and keep the gravel from being packed into the dirt. It will have 72 2" long spikes to keep the top layer loose and looking good.

I have one of these and that is what it does.  You can pull it with the spikes or turn it around and pull against the spikes for more aggressive action.  Throw some weight on it for even more digging.  Some call it a blanket harrow.  Brings the gravel up and does some leveling.  Very versatile.

[Kelly E]

Yes it will help keep it flat and keep the gravel from being packed into the dirt. It will have 72 2" long spikes to keep the top layer loose and looking good.

I have one of these and that is what it does.  You can pull it with the spikes or turn it around and pull against the spikes for more aggressive action.  Throw some weight on it for even more digging.  Some call it a blanket harrow.  Brings the gravel up and does some leveling.  Very versatile.

I thought about one of those but I need more maneuverability. With this setup I can lift the rack and turn around at the end of the road. Besides I have fun building stuff like this.

[ofreen]

I thought about one of those but I need more maneuverability.

You need room to turn around with the blanket harrow for sure.

[Don R]

 I got the dragster chassis certified, the seat pan and the new seat belts are in along with the poured seat liner. I could not honestly remember torquing the flywheel bolts so I slid the trans back and re-did them. The trans is in place now, I really want to get the body back on so the golf cart can go back into the trailer, I can move the trailer to where it sits normally now that the cherry picker has done the job of lowering the trans into the chassis. Then I can move a bike or two to the bike side and bring my 40 chevy home from storage.

[BenelliSEI]

Brought the race car over to the house for a few weeks. Bunch of small jobs and easier to do them here. First race is in four weeks!

[Kelly E]

The driveway rake is working great. Today I got all of my driveway done plus about 300' of the road.

[grcamna2]

The driveway rake is working great. Today I got all of my driveway done plus about 300' of the road.

Looks to have leveled it up.
Was that using the full steel frame of it,or lifted-up with the 72 spikes alone ?

[Kelly E]

It leveled the driveway out nicely. The spikes do the work and the frame drags along excess crushed rock which drops into the low spots. Once everything was broken up I set it to skim and finished it out.