Topic: '78 CB550K Four 'Phoenix'

[boaf]

I have been lurking on the forums for the better part of a year and registered my account right after picking up my 1978 CB550 in July/17.

Here she is in the back of the truck on the way home.



Cafe style, Scrambler style and other modded 'retro' bikes have always appealed to me and I had (have?) plans to modify this bike into something along those lines.  However, I wasn't willing to jump right in and start modifying it.  I decided to take the summer and put some kilometres under my belt, get comfortable with the bike, do the standard maintenance (oil change/filter, 3000 mile service, etc) and figure out any quirks the bike had.  Also, as I wasn't overly familiar with the CB bikes I needed to research, research and research some more.

Over the summer I became obsessed with the bike and ended up putting over 5000 km on the odometer.  Not a lot for some people but I rode whenever work and family would allow.

First Ride



Towards the end of the summer



Even used it for farm duties - picking up chicken feed



Rode it so hard it tore the badges from the tank (PO had used silicone to attach)



Over the years I have had 3 different 90-91 Honda CRX's and they were an obsession.  But parts were getting hard to come by, body work wasn't cheap and the extra car and parts took up a lot of room. At the end of the summer I knew I was 100% committed to bikes so I sold everything I had related to CRX's.

Here goes the last shell it was a sad day but a felt good about my decision - the Phoenix was born.

[boaf]

Place holder for the 'plans'

Still working on refining this post

What I am doing

- Dual brake swap.  In search of eliminating the famous brake squeal I was going to be replacing / servicing the entire brake system.  So why not double the fun

- Hindle exhaust from Ripple Rock Racers

 - Something with the intake.  The stock air box boots have long since disintegrated and been replaced with aluminized pipe similar to a dryer hose.  It worked surprisingly well with silicone caulking used to seal both ends.  I know there is a member on here who sells replacement boots for the 77-78 bikes.  I am looking at getting a set of those to have on hand.  However my stock airbox is missing a few of the proper brackets.  It would work but I would be happy without it installed properly.  I have bought a Cognito Moto intake but likely won't use it.  I have 3 options...

1. Use Cognito Moto intake
2. Find the remaining pieces to complete my air box
3. Re-create TinTop's 'Anti-Pod'



What I am not doing

- Changing stock tire size
- Changing stock geometry

[DurangoCB]

Welcome!  Would love to hear the plan for that beauty bike.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Photos please!

[boaf]

I live in Canada but only about an hour from the Niagara Falls / Buffalo border.  Living so close makes it easy to have stuff shipped within the US to a 'PO Box' (Parcel Donkey) just over the border. 

For the last few weeks I have been having packages shipped to Parcel Donkey and today I finally went over and picked everything up.

I will try and get my 'Plans' post updated so this makes more sense

Order from '4into1'
Carb rebuild kits, 2 sets of brake pads, all sorts of fuel lines, M/C rebuild kit, exhaust gaskets and Allen bolt kit


Order from partzilla.com
Oil pump o-rings and fuel tank mounts


Cognito Moto
New air box.  I will likely not end up using this due to, you know, difficulty in tuning especially on the PD carbs.  More on this later.




Godffery's Garage
Dual brake kit. I'm most excited about this.  Jeff is wonderful to deal with, quick shipping and great packaging.  Also, got the speedo delete and tach plug just in case.


eBay
Brake light switch and new clutch perch.  I will just swap the clutch lever from my current perch when I use this.


Also made a little trip to Harbor Freight

[flatlander]

nice to see the stuff from godffery. i have some stuff coming from him that i can hopefully pick up on friday, this makes me look forward to it.

might be an idea to get some slightly lower handlebars? you'd still be upright enough for longer rides but in a more efficient position.

if you need something more for your oil pump there's a guy who's also a member here, who sells these rebuild kits on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-cb500-cb550-oil-pump-rebuild-kit-1971-1978-repair-o-rings-pressure-switch-/162179190728

[Marissa]

Following, looking good so far!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I guess I'm the only one who cannot see his photos . . .

[flatlander]

i can see them. they're on this site: https://ibb.co
maybe the domain is blocked for you?

[boaf]

I guess I'm the only one who cannot see his photos . . .

Weird...I can see them.  They are large 'thumb nailed' in the thread and can be clicked on to see the full size photo.

Anyone else having trouble seeing?

[boaf]

nice to see the stuff from godffery. i have some stuff coming from him that i can hopefully pick up on friday, this makes me look forward to it.

might be an idea to get some slightly lower handlebars? you'd still be upright enough for longer rides but in a more efficient position.

if you need something more for your oil pump there's a guy who's also a member here, who sells these rebuild kits on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-cb500-cb550-oil-pump-rebuild-kit-1971-1978-repair-o-rings-pressure-switch-/162179190728

I LOVE the riding portion of the stock bike.  It feels like I'm sitting in a chair but can see the appeal to lower bars.  I find that when wearing anything more then a t-shirt my elbows block the mirror.  Thinking slightly lower bars and / or bar end mirrors.

I looked at that oil pump kit on eBay but I had already replaced the oil pressure sensor last summer after it developed a small leak.  I was going to buy the kit anyway just for the o-rings as I still have a smaller leak from pump.  But thru my incessant research I found a thread on here listing the proper o-rings and it only cost me about $14 for all the OEM seals.

[boaf]

Did a quick temporary install of the dual brake kit tonight.  The calipers weren't loaded with pads, adjuster bolts not installed, etc.

I swapped the fork to opposite sides so I could put the calipers could be trailing.  Pretty sure I like the look better but will have to sort out a fender.  A couple of guys I follow on Instagram do great metal work.  Will likely contact one of them.

Tomorrow I will break everything down and clean the forks, wheels, hub, etc.  Many nitrile gloves were sacrificed tonight to keep the new parts clean.  I likely should have cleaned before any assembly.   But I needed to mockup brake lines so they could be ordered right away.  The newly received fuel line was used as a stainless stand-in.

The stock hydraulic brake switch will be eliminated and replaced by a switch in the lever.  The M/C that is on the bike is not stock from the 550; it appears to be from an 77-78 CB750A and it will accept the OEM switch eBay served up. I had planned to use 3 brake lines - one from M/C to manifold on lower triple and then 1 to each caliper from there.  I prefer the 3 line setup over the long line to one caliper with a double banjo and jump to the other.  The 3 line setup will allow me to change just the upper line should I get shorter bars.

I will do a detailed write-up when doing the final install. Should I have the wheel re-balance due to the new rotors?

[flatlander]

I LOVE the riding portion of the stock bike.  It feels like I'm sitting in a chair but can see the appeal to lower bars.  I find that when wearing anything more then a t-shirt my elbows block the mirror.  Thinking slightly lower bars and / or bar end mirrors.

ok then once you start riding a bit faster for a bit longer you'll appreciate a position where your upper body doesn't turn that much into a sail - that's what works better for me at least. i'm in europe where these bikes came stock with lower bars because they were meant to be ridden, not used as an alternative for a TV chair
i do hope you wear a bit more than a t-shirt when riding. but  you're right, the mirrors are easily blocked by elbows or shoulders. i just move my upper body a bit when looking into them. alternatively, you could bend them out a bit.

[boaf]

ok then once you start riding a bit faster for a bit longer you'll appreciate a position where your upper body doesn't turn that much into a sail - that's what works better for me at least. i'm in europe where these bikes came stock with lower bars because they were meant to be ridden, not used as an alternative for a TV chair
i do hope you wear a bit more than a t-shirt when riding. but  you're right, the mirrors are easily blocked by elbows or shoulders. i just move my upper body a bit when looking into them. alternatively, you could bend them out a bit.

Very true about the 'sail' effect.  The bars certainly don't allow for top speed or top comfort at speed.  When I tuck down on the current bars the shoulders get uncomfortable. 

I'm thinking a tracker style bar.  I don't like to look of clip-ons and feel like with clip-ons rear sets would be required, changing the look of the bike and riding position.

Moving the upper body does help with the mirrors but one shouldn't need to move all that much to use the mirrors.  Think I will try some bar end mirrors - if they look right.

[flatlander]

i agree that clipons sbould go with rearsets for proper ergonomics. have also a look at superbike or euro bars, they work fine with stock footpeg position. some.people also use stock bars from a 400F and are happy with them.

you are right about the  mirrors. if you want to use stock, putting the stems in a vice and bending them outwards a few degrees should help.

[boaf]

Been fighting a cold so work is slow this weekend.

Broke the front end down again to clean everything.  Used WD-40 degreaser, a toothbrush and a blue Scotchbrite then rinsed with water and dried with compressed air.

I want to get the bike back on the road for the summer which is fast approaching.

After the riding season I will be doing additional work.  At that time likely new rims, rebuild the forks, etc for the front end.







Prepped the brake pads with a nice coat of 'Disc Brake Quiet'. Be sure to let it dry before using the pads.  Pads came with a bevel on the out of the box.  Looks like to should be enough to help keep them quiet.









Rebuilt the master cylinder.  Now I will get it painted up.  Definitely ideal to paint after the rebuild, at least for me, as brake fluid got on the cylinder during the rebuild.











Working on the carbs as well.  Any idea what this o-ring is for?  From what I can tell it should be for the float needle valve seat.  But the seat isn't removable on the PD carbs?



Thinking about a front fender like this....

[calj737]

Check those new pads for fitment in the caliper. They appear to have a thick coat of paint on the edges which can cause them to bind up, and not retract fully. A light sanding of that paint should allow them to slide smoothly in and out of the recess (piston side, of course).

[boaf]

Check those new pads for fitment in the caliper. They appear to have a thick coat of paint on the edges which can cause them to bind up, and not retract fully. A light sanding of that paint should allow them to slide smoothly in and out of the recess (piston side, of course).

Thank you.  I assumed they would fit without needing 'pre-fitment.' I've never had a set for a car that needed the special treatment.  But the thing about assuming is...

Had to break out the file and lay it on the bench to take some metal off and finished up with 220 sandpaper.  The pin divot needed some work too.

I am happy with the fit.

[boaf]

Starting the final mount up and fitting of the dual disc setup.  I removed the fork brace from the stock fender by grinding down the welds and drilling them out.  Using the brake will allow me to do the fitting more accurately and play the the fender location and size as I can slide it back and forth over the bracket.

A note for anyone else doing this swap:  I found the easier to mount the wheel first as it doesn't easily fit between both caliper arms.  Im sure you could mount one caliper arm and then put the wheel in.



I am running into a rub on the left side.  I haven't looked to far into yet as it is getting late.  But should the pad sit flat into the 'pad cup' on the inboard side?  It seems that the centre is higher allowing the pad to 'roll' to different angles. 



Also, I don't like using non-stock hardware but sometimes we need too.  Just don't like the fact that a factory bolt had a 14mm head and new one has a 13mm head.

[boaf]

Got the rub sorted out and all seems great. Wheel spins freely and no binding.

I had the fender brace on the wrong side of the pivot arm and needed a washer shim on the lower bolt on the right side.



Now to decide about using the adjuster bolt or not.  I like the idea of a self adjusting brake but could see how after miles of riding without using the brake the piston could be pushed slightly back into the bore.

[boaf]

Picked up a few new goodies today.  New headlight ears and Hindle Exhaust from Ripple Rock Racers




Got the wheel balanced and mounted.  Installed the pivot arms and calipers.  I will still need to give everything its final torque but whats on can stay on.

Put on the new head light ears, mounted the light bucket and re-connected the wiring.  Put the battery in temporarily to test all the lights, indicators, etc and all seems good.

Going to order some 'pin' style indicators from MotoGadget or Morimoto and install them in place of the reflectors.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/morimoto-pindicators.html
https://cognitomoto.com/products/motogadget-m-blaze-pin?variant=4179346561

[boaf]

I had previously drilled out the fender mount bracket for mocking up a new fender and spacing the caliper install.  I riveted the fender back on after flipping the bracket around and will use it until I get a new fender.  As I put the fender bracket behind the pivot arm on both sides the bracket had to be bent slightly to center the fender.




The brake line splitter came from China today. Thanks AliExpress



Brake lines should be here this week.  Will be painting the MC and getting the brakes buttoned up.

Waiting for new exhaust studs, carb jets and felt seals.  Once I have those can reassemble the carbs and work on getting it running. 

I have 16 brand new spark plugs ready to go.

[Godffery]

 Hey Thank you for the good word Guys!  I love seeing my goods in action.   

For the brake pads, I offer Pads that are zinc platted, Not Painted.  Sanding the edges will cause them to rust & stick.
Also; if you are using my Phenolic Caliper pistons, be sure to leave out the nylon ring between the Pad & Piston, as they are no longer necessary.
Regarding Brake Squeal; I offer an anti-Squeal shim for that allowing the inboard Pad to sit flat.  No more brake pad goo.

 Side note; I have to say, I've never been a fan of inverting the Calipers, but that being said.  You did do a nice job converting the fender.

[boaf]

Hey Thank you for the good word Guys!  I love seeing my goods in action.   

For the brake pads, I offer Pads that are zinc platted, Not Painted.  Sanding the edges will cause them to rust & stick.
Also; if you are using my Phenolic Caliper pistons, be sure to leave out the nylon ring between the Pad & Piston, as they are no longer necessary.
Regarding Brake Squeal; I offer an anti-Squeal shim for that allowing the inboard Pad to sit flat.  No more brake pad goo.

 Side note; I have to say, I've never been a fan of inverting the Calipers, but that being said.  You did do a nice job converting the fender.

Thanks for the words about the fender.  I will get a new fender at some point but this will certainly get me riding again.

Can you PM or email me pricing on the pads and shims?  I have already skipped the nylon ring.

[Godffery]

For the brake pads, I offer Pads that are zinc platted, Not Painted.  Sanding the edges will cause them to rust & stick.
Regarding Brake Squeal; I offer an anti-Squeal shim for that allowing the inboard Pad to sit flat.  No more brake pad goo.

Can you PM or email me pricing on the pads $18 and shims $4.25. 

I don't think I have your email anymore, but you can contact me directly at jstephens7 (at) wi.rr.com