Topic: Rotella T is in the Howwwwwwwse!!

[bistromath]

Synthetics don't usually have more detergents. Recycled oils, on the other hand, do, and they WILL cause you to develop oil leaks in your SOHC. Ask me how I know. I'm only just now getting enough sludge back to plug them....

=D

--n

[jbailey]

Synthetics do not have more detergent action than any modern oil.  Detergent when talking about oils means that the contaminents are held in suspension, it doesn't "clean" your engine, but will prevent buildup in the first place.  Detergent action is a good thing and stories about various oils removing sludge from an engine and causing leaks is another urban oil myth.

[bistromath]

*shrug* I just know after I put cheap Shell "sludge-fighting" oil in my bike, it started leaking from the head, shifter seal, tach seal, etc. A few months later, it's pretty well stopped.

Seems if the contaminants are held in suspension, that sort of means they aren't plugging up crevices any more. On the other hand, it's probably best to rebuild the bike such that it doesn't leak in the first place! =)

And to continue the thread, I put Rotella T 15W40 in my 550 tonight. Seems to run fine, the clutch slips a little more than it did with GN4. We'll see if that changes as the oil 'ages', but it's not a problem in any event.

[jbailey]

Many oil companies are producing oils formulated for "older" engines or high mileage vehicles.  These contain various solvents and chemicals designed to swell seals and gaskets and hopefully stop leaks temporarily.  The key is temporarily.  Good engine maintenance or repair cannot be replaced with these quick fixes and they most likely just do more damage.  This should not be confused with a good detergent oil.  Any oil you buy including walmart brand (which is actually quaker state) will have high detergent action, but it won't "clean" sludge from your engine.  If you have sludge in your engine or your clutch is slipping, it needs to be repaired.  No oil will repair mechanical problems.  If you have a well maintained, properly functioning engine and transmission, you should be able to use whatever oil you want which meets the manufacturer specs (without moly) and you should have no clutch or leakage problems.  Preventive maintenance is cheaper than repairs.

Fram had commercials that said "You can pay me now, or pay me later." which pointed out that skimping on maintenance or using cheap parts will not save money in the long run.  There's an ironic point that could be made here, but I don't want to start another war!

[pmpski_1]

I guess I shoulda read all of those oil threads that I generally skip

[hymodyne]

just switched from castrol 10W-40 to Rotella T 5W-40, after 1000+ miles with castrol. The Castrol was a marked improvement over the bargain basement oil I started using in the bike, but after about 1000 miles, I noticed difficulties in shifting back to neutral at lights, etc, and that start up from a dead stop began to take lots of road to get going. I'm in first 100 miles with the rotella, so far, so good...

hym

[Wheelhorse77]

I've run the latest 10 40 Castrol GTX and my bike finds neutral much easier. I change my oil under 1000 miles.

Key Benefits
Castrol GTX exceeds demanding U.S. high shear and stay-in-grade requirements for viscosity breakdown protection.
Far exceeds the demanding U.S. requirements for viscosity breakdown in every grade!
Engineered to provide maximum protection against viscosity and thermal breakdown!
Anti-oxidants, detergents and dispersants provide unsurpassed protection against thermal breakdown.
Exceeds passenger car and gasoline light truck requirements for the protection of gasoline and turbocharged engines where API SM, SL, SJ or SH is recommended.


The new rotella T isn't exactly what the old Rotella was and people on the boards ( shell) are assuming that it is just as good.

The motorcycle analysis used castrol gtx for one test, and not the other, so how the heck can anyone draw an accurate conclusion.

[Master Ted]

OK, here we go...

I did the 10-40W Castro, Rotella 15-40, GN4 10-40W, Rotella Syn 5-40W and Mobil-1 20-50W for V Twins.

Absolutely top of the heap is the M1: clutch performance and  transmission performance is head and shoulders above the rest.

$9 a quart but I'll ante up for the next oil change too.... OK, I'm done looking around for the right oil.

[ic455]

Using Rotella non synthetic 15w40 in my 750K6 without issue.  Oil pressure light goes out quicker on start up and engine is quieter than it was.  Also note the interesting smell that hot Rotella has versus regular oils.   Noticed that little difference when I was a diesel tech and thought it was just because the oil became saturated with diesel fuel over time, but it has the same odd scent when used in my bike.  Aren't I a strange one?

[feliz]

Is anyone here running a "true" synthetic (groups 4 or 5) in their wet clutch with success?

I've been running Mobil1 synthetic in all my bikes for years and never had any problems of any kind. Usually 15-50 and it's the car oil.

[Wheelhorse77]

Using Rotella non synthetic 15w40 in my 750K6 without issue.  Oil pressure light goes out quicker on start up and engine is quieter than it was.  Also note the interesting smell that hot Rotella has versus regular oils.   Noticed that little difference when I was a diesel tech and thought it was just because the oil became saturated with diesel fuel over time, but it has the same odd scent when used in my bike.  Aren't I a strange one?

You're a real oil sniffer. LOL  I do the same with my mustang, I can smell the race fuel in the oil mmm mmm good.

[TwoTired]

Choosing oil is not just a religion, it's a culinary, and political statement, too!

Technically speaking, of course... 

Does aroma therapy qualify as a medical benefit?

What about you vegetarians out there?  Why aren't you promoting Canola, or castor oil?




 

[Bob Wessner]

There's always cod liver oil if you don't mind the exhaust smelling like fish.

[Ibsen]

This is what you need to look for on the bottle when you are buying oil for classic bikes:

JASO MA (no friction modifiers)
API SG

Which brand you use isn't important as long as the oil have got the specifications above.

[TwoTired]

There's always cod liver oil if you don't mind the exhaust smelling like fish.

Well Bob, now you're just ASKING for a visit from PETA.

 

[Dunk]

Just FYI Shell has changed their formula for 2007 motor oil specs. Rotella T is no longer high in Zinc content. I used to use it for cam breakin in the car engines I build, wouldn't trust anything else. Wiped my first cam recently... It was with the new formula Shell Rotella T. No longer will I put that in anything, Shell caved in to government BS and removed zinc to put the new logo on their bottle. I now use Valvoline Racing VR1 for cam breakin on any engine I build, for normal driving in my classic big block Ford, and also in my CB750. Valvoline VR1 has a high zinc content and is high in other elements inportant to long motor life, especially in a high performance application. I'm happy with in in my CB750, but am curious what is out there for synthetics that are worthwhile to run in a bike.

[Wheelhorse77]

Just FYI Shell has changed their formula for 2007 motor oil specs. Rotella T is no longer high in Zinc content. I used to use it for cam breakin in the car engines I build, wouldn't trust anything else. Wiped my first cam recently... It was with the new formula Shell Rotella T. No longer will I put that in anything, Shell caved in to government BS and removed zinc to put the new logo on their bottle. I now use Valvoline Racing VR1 for cam breakin on any engine I build, for normal driving in my classic big block Ford, and also in my CB750. Valvoline VR1 has a high zinc content and is high in other elements inportant to long motor life, especially in a high performance application. I'm happy with in in my CB750, but am curious what is out there for synthetics that are worthwhile to run in a bike.

General motors sells a raw zinc additive. EOS


Here is an article regarding cam shaft probs... probably a repost.

http://www.tampabaybritishcarclub.com/Tech_Tips/tech_tips.html

BTW I switched over to the rotella T tonight and my bike seems to shift a bit smoother. Could be placebo.

[Terry in Australia]

I'm surprised to see so many here have used Castrol GTX without any mention of ill effects, I've always stayed away from the stuff because the "friction modifiers" are no good for wet clutches?

Don't get me wrong, it's good oil, I've used it in various cars and BMW bikes (with dry clutches) for years with no problems at all. Cheers, Terry.

[tbone]

There's always cod liver oil if you don't mind the exhaust smelling like fish.

Well Bob, now you're just ASKING for a visit from PETA.

 

People Eating Tasty Animals ? 

Years ago I used Texaco Ursa in a 350 four. No problems and it was free! But that stuff smelled weird. 

[Wheelhorse77]

whatever you do, do not add any so-called stabilizers.


I used to wonder about this at high speeds from just cranking the demo at the autoparts store.

Here is what would happen in sohc gear box 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm