Author Topic: Wiring - Rick's Reg  (Read 899 times)

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Offline DBishop211

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Wiring - Rick's Reg
« on: March 28, 2018, 10:40:01 PM »
I am a little confused.  I have questions relative to Rick's diagram below:
I am going kick-only, basic wiring (keyed, oil light, switched lights)

1.  In my mind, if you wire it per this diagram, the battery red and post-regulator black will always be hot, whether the switch is on or not, you will always have voltage to these wires?  What is the point of sending the black back into the red?
2.  Also in my mind, the 3rd/4th photos are my interpretation of how this should work.  What am I missing?  In my experience the hot wire is regulated and you're all set.

« Last Edit: March 28, 2018, 11:27:51 PM by DBishop211 »

Offline Yamahawk

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Re: Wiring - Rick's Reg
« Reply #1 on: March 29, 2018, 01:55:25 AM »
So, is your harness stock, or are you re wiring you bike from scratch? I have a Rick's regulator that came with my bike, and the PO had custom wired it without ANY fuses at ALL. I stripped everything, and installed a stock wiring harness which the Rick's regulator just plugged into... haven't had any problems, and never lost a minute of sleep over it. Works great. The white, black and green have spade terminals that plug into the stock harness, and that was where the regulator used to connect. The Red hot wire is output, and the other wires regulate the field coil to give you proper charging current. That is the purpose of the regulator. Hope I got all the colors right from memory, it's too early here to get the wiring diagram out lol.
Charlie
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Offline calj737

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Re: Wiring - Rick's Reg
« Reply #2 on: March 29, 2018, 04:13:50 AM »
The Rick's BLACK wire needs to read the voltage from the battery's POS terminal somewhere within your harness/wiring. It is the sensing wire that, as Charlie stated, regulates the DC voltage back to replenish the battery. You don't want it wired directly to the battery as that will energize the field coil constantly.

I don't like their diagram either as one could easily draw the same conclusion about constantly hot.
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Offline DBishop211

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Re: Wiring - Rick's Reg
« Reply #3 on: March 29, 2018, 12:09:57 PM »
I'm wiring from scratch because I don't need most things (I fully plan to add fuses into the system).

I guess I don't have my head wrapped around the 'sensing' function, because I'm not sure what exactly is going on inside the reg/rect.  I can talk myself into understanding that you want to switch power off of the coils.  I think they're over simplifying what's going on with the ignition switch.  I think I have it figured out, comparing to other wiring diagrams from other bikes.

Thanks for the input.

Offline Yamahawk

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Re: Wiring - Rick's Reg
« Reply #4 on: March 29, 2018, 12:11:30 PM »
Yep, the exciter coil needs switched 12v from the ignition switch, not directly off the battery... that would be the black wire.
Charlie
1971 CB750K1 (newest bike), 1996 Royal Enfield 500 Bullet (therapy bike), 1981 Yamaha XV920RH, 2006 Kawasaki Concours (retirement bike), 1975 Yamaha RD350 (race bike), 1989 Honda VTR250 Interceptor (race bike), 1986 Kawasaki EX250 Ninja (race bike in progress), 1985 Honda Elite CH250, 1973 Yamaha GT1 80cc, 1974 Yamaha DT360 project bike.

The Only Thing Necessary for Evil to Triumph, is for Good Men to do Nothing.
Edmund Burke

All Things work together for good, for those who love God and are the Called according to His purpose.
Romans 8:28

Though He slay me, Yet will I trust Him...
Job 13:15
will you trust Him...?

Offline Bodi

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Re: Wiring - Rick's Reg
« Reply #5 on: March 29, 2018, 05:01:12 PM »
For kick only, the regulator red wire is the only unswitched connection to the battery +. The regulator black, coils, lights, everything else goes to switched power.
You don't show a fuse but this is absolutely required. Without it a mistake or a wire worn through on a sharp edge means a fire rather than a blown fuse.
The black wire to the regulator powers the alternator field coil plus the regulator uses that voltage to decide if the battery is charged (no alternator power needed) or discharged (alternator power ON). The coil pulls a few amps, so that wire needs to be switched or your battery will go flat rather quickly with motor off.