I think you should make base gasket clear 3 piece pin. If I understand what is the problem u are having? Please send me some picures if I didn’t understand the problem you are having
Sorry if my explanation wasn't the clearest. We tried installing the tensioner several different ways i'll explain the problems we ran into with each way. We ruled out cutting away part of the gasket to clear the 3 piece pin because the gasket is the only thing holding that 3 piece pin in place and even if we removed just enough to get the metal section to clear the gasket we would really sacrifice stability in that part.
Scenario 1: Putting the 3 piece pin in first. When doing this you can't raise the cradle side of the tensioner high enough to get the top pin in because the 3 piece pin hits the bottom of the block first.
Scenario 2: We tried putting the top pin in first but after doing so we realized there was no way to get that 3 piece pin in afterwards because the large OD of the sleeves mad less room between cylinders 2 and 3 making it impossible to slide the 3 piece pin afterwards.
The distance between cylinders 2 and 3 on a stock setup is 2.796 inches where as with the billet block the area is only 2.442 inches
We contemplated removing material near where the top pin sits in the block, just enough to get to slide the pin into place but we'd still have to really tweak that base gasket to get that bottom pin in as the 3 piece pin would still be holding the gasket against the block. The only way for this tensioner to work with something with a larger sleeve OD over stock would be be to make the top hole in the tensioner a slot that allows some up and down play.
You may be able to still use this tensioner without modifications if some type of custom 5 piece tongue and groove pin could be machined to replace to stock 3 piece pin. But this would certainly take some thought engineering and thought
