Topic: Any good low-buck painting tips?

[super pasty white guy]

While we're on the subject of going on the cheap, anyone here have recommendations for rattle can colors that approximate/match the original Honda colors?

Although I'm looking for 750F Yellow, I'm sure others are in the same boat for their projects, whatever the color.

I know that I could take a side cover in and have it matched, but I'm pretty sure (damn sure, actually) that mine was repainted by the PO and so I have no idea what "original" looks like.

Dave

[Master Ted]

This you may find interesting.... The local auto paint supply house just told me that the two part in a rattle can has been so popular that they purchased a machine to package 2k basecoat in a rattle can. They are only waiting for shipment of two part cans for packaging. The autobody101 link I posted earlier in this thread has a download for "basics of basics" that describes a guy who has the hardener mixed in the can at the store and then running home to paint b/4 pot life expires. ha!

Should be great product for little jobbers like us who need less than a pint for the whole job.

The main concern I have at this point is using the close to stock candy colors I was leaning towards. From my research so far the word is candy paints are the worst colors for an amateur to use - very difficult to get it even and consistant. I think I'm going a different two tone direction at this point.

   

[Lumbee]

...so someone straighten me out on the "2part".  How can it be 2 part if its mixed aready in the can?

[Master Ted]

A two part can has two chambers - one is released to the other with a plunger prior to painting. As you may know, after the parts are mixed together you only have a limited period of time to use b/4 the product sets and becomes unusable.

Spray Max pot life following activation:

Clear - 24 hours
Epoxy primer - 4 days
Filler primer - 8 hours

[gregwaits]

I am a big fan of Dupli-Color low gloss engine enamel for that "mean" flat black looking paintjob.
Whats nice is the stuff is durable, and if it gets messed up you just do a quick sand and a re-spray !
I have been told this stuff comes in different colors (which I need to research).
So instead of a flat black you could do flat blue,red,green,etc...

Or you could Line-X the #$%* and forget about it !

Tank is for sale by the way 

That looks like a cross between a gas tank and an avocado. 

[jabbadeznuts]

From re-painting my tank and side panels, here's what I've learned:

Prep work is the most important. It's 95% prep and 5% paint. You can't hide defects with paint. You can with Bondo and sanding.
Make all your body work smooth as a baby's a$$.
Use a HVLP paint gun with a regulator just before the gun as well as an air drier on the line you're using. I used a Craftsman gun and it worked very well.
When spraying, don't "fan" the gun - keep the same distance between the gun and the part for the entire stroke and make sure to overlap strokes by at least 50%.
I used PPG OMNI paint. It's a single stage acrylic enamel. No priming, no clear coat. I put on four coats with a wet sand between the 2nd and 3rd. (If you use a single stage DO NOT WET SAND AFTER THE FINAL COAT!)

Make a paint booth out of plastic drop cloth to keep paint from going everywhere.

You may be able to go to a body shop and ask to watch their painters work. You can learn a LOT by watching.

[Master Ted]

Yet another site - paint is way too spendy for me but site has some useful information.

http://www.cyclecolor.com/index.htm

[Hockers Choppers]

I've been a bodyman for 20 years and have seen peoples work that they think looks OK! Don't sh!t yourself, if it comes from a can it will look like sh!t in less than a year!! Don't spend a bunch of time on something getting it ready and put crap product on top of it! Take it to someone you know that works in a bodyshop and have them "slip it in". I used to charge $100 a piece for bike parts. Some guys might even do it as cheap as a 1/2 gallon or a case of beer And it will look better and last forever! And take a hellofalot less time for you. Body shops use catalized primers, sealers, basecoats, and clears. Spray cans are air dried and shrink back like crazy because they are over reduced. You could save a $100 doing it yourself and be happy that you did it yourself, BUT...it won't last or be durable like a pro job!

Just my 2 cents'

[Master Ted]

catalized primers, sealers, basecoats, and clears.

Ah, er, that's what this rattle can stuff is.... no offense, but I think we all can pretty much tell what is a good and not so good finish. Trust me... the Spray Max result is most excellent, my friend.

BTW, I shopped my work around - I offered the tank and side covers ready and prepped - "just shoot it with the next nice color you are working with (no kidding)". Best offer I got was $200.

But, doing it myself is fine with me. I've got a nice gun, compressor, regulator and time. I'm rather into the artful thing at this stage of my life and am having a rather fun time with this part of the project. Doing nearly everything myself is all part of the SOHC ownership experience I'm enjoying so much. 

[hahnda]

Something to think about.

http://www.vintagehondapaint.com/

Its not rattle can but looks to be a pretty good deal.

[Hockers Choppers]

Hey staphcar, I totally agree with the doing it yourself thing. But you can't activate something and put it in a can. It will harden if it is catilized. I charge the Harley shop $100 a panel and they look like factory when done. Most shops don't like to touch stuff that other people have preped just because they don't know what primers where used etc. When you go to painting it all kinds of weird stuff can happen. And then its a big pain in the a$$ and you don't get paid for it.

Ask snip to send you some pics of a spray can job.

[eldar]

paint does cure when mix hock, however, staph said it was a 2 part can as well. When you get ready to paint, you mix the 2 halves and spray away. From there you only have so much time till the paint is unusable. maybe this paint is not as good as a professional job, maybe it is. I do see why people might like it though. I dont have the money to pay 100 per peice for a paint job. I dont have the cash to go and spend on a 300 air comp, another 50-100 for an average spray gun and then whatever the rest of the items cost. Sure it may not last as long but then again, there is nothing that says a professional job will either. I have seen jobs peel and crack in under a year.

[Hockers Choppers]

OH Sorry I didn't realize it was a two part can.

The reason shops won't touch other people prep is in your reply. We bust our ass to get a good reputation for our shops. It only takes one job that peels in a year because you painted someones bike that they preped with cheap products. And no one asks " who preped that?" They ask " who painted that?" And you say "oh, Jesse painted that for me and he charged me $100", Not "Oh Jesse painted that for me and it looked great for a year, I wish I wouldn't have used the $5 primer, it might have lasted forever!!"

[kettlesd]

Try taking your tank and side covers to your local community college's autobody class and get them to do the work for like $50.  Seriously, when I was 16, I had my GTO painted there and they did a hell of a job.  It cost me the price of materials + 10%, which still stands today, 13 years later.

I work for the community college here in Nova Scotia. I got them to paint my FJ for me and they did an amazing job on it, and very, very reasonable. Cost me 200 to do the whole thing - and as any FJ owner knows, the FJ has a LOT of parts to paint.

Here it is. If the paint and metal work look a little dull, its only from the heavy wax i have on for winter storage.

[Rsnip988]

the parts i painted look great, I just didnt care about overspray getting on the old tire i'll be replacing

[ChrisR]

I was having trouble repainting my side panels a while ago - paint bubbling up, etc. Crazypj correctly diagnosed that I hadn't got my filler/bondo completely dry after wet sanding before I started painting. Apparently the filler will absorb water/moisture and unless it is completely dried out it will ruin any paint job you put on it. So make sure all filler is well and truly dry by spending time in a warm room or use a hairdryer, etc.
(I'm thinking about changing the colour again now -aargh)
Chris

[eldar]

not so hocker. I have seen a finish straight from a factory go to crap in less than a year. it can happen to anyone no matter how good they think they are. and while maybe not quite as nice, I have seen rattle can last years and still look ok. My only point is that any technique can give good or bad results.

[nickjtc]

This is all interesting stuff. Sounds to me like it's the same rationale as changing your own tyres. If you want to have at it, have the tools, time and patience it could be very rewarding.

My only efforts have been dismal, at best, all due to poor prep. And the use of cheap rattle can paint. And a total lack of knowledge of what I was doing.

Question for the experts:

If you've got a tank/side panels/whatever that has been recently professionally painted, and you want to change the colour, is it necessary to strip back to base metal and start all over again?

Just curious.

[Lumbee]

If you've got a tank/side panels/whatever that has been recently professionally painted, and you want to change the colour, is it necessary to strip back to base metal and start all over again?

...don't know alot about painting, but the answer here is gonna be Yes!  Like someone said before it all about whats underneath.  You need to start with bear metal or plastic, and work u'r way up...

[c_kyle]

Try taking your tank and side covers to your local community college's autobody class and get them to do the work for like $50.  Seriously, when I was 16, I had my GTO painted there and they did a hell of a job.  It cost me the price of materials + 10%, which still stands today, 13 years later.

I work for the community college here in Nova Scotia. I got them to paint my FJ for me and they did an amazing job on it, and very, very reasonable. Cost me 200 to do the whole thing - and as any FJ owner knows, the FJ has a LOT of parts to paint.

Here it is. If the paint and metal work look a little dull, its only from the heavy wax i have on for winter storage.

I think this is the best bang for your buck.  You get a professional paint job for the least amount of cash.  I'll be going this route next time the classes are at the project stage.  The only problem is the wait; it takes a little longer than a regular body shop.  Now, I just need to think of a nice color/colors.

[eldar]

well I have read that you do not need to get to bare metal depending on what you are doing. If the paint is the same brand and type and is NOT lighter, you generally should not have too. But then there are millions of different sources of "info" so hard to say for sure.

[nickjtc]

well I have read that you do not need to get to bare metal depending on what you are doing. If the paint is the same brand and type and is NOT lighter, you generally should not have too. But then there are millions of different sources of "info" so hard to say for sure.

The challenge in my case is that the existing paint is black and I'll be changing it to signal orange, the original colour of the bike. Yes, I'm talking about the Norton. Sophie looks just fine with her silver duds on.

[Hockers Choppers]

What kind of paint is on it now? If it is in good shape all you will have to do is scuff it and shoot it. If it is cracked , chipped, scratched, you will have to feather out the bad spots and prime. Taking your stuff to a vo-tech school is a great idea, they are always looking for projects. And some of those kids are very talented!

[kettlesd]

Another good part about taking your parts to a Community College to get done (other than the savings), is that our riding down-time in the winter is the time they are typically taking on projects.

[Daves_76_SS]

I like that tank finish. Can you take a pic from the side and post it?

I will take and post some more pics first thing in the morning!