Topic: Any good low-buck painting tips?

[Rsnip988]

thanks dave...





I had to grind mine down to metal to fill in the dents grrrrr stupid dents that wouldnt pop out of course

[Lumbee]

I can't say enough about the rather new on the market two part primers and clear in a rattle can. Application and outcome is outstanding! Never have I used a rattle can with results equal to a pro gun except for this product. $22 per can.

With the epoxy primer you can skip the need for any sealers. The base coat can be just about anything w/o even the need for a 2 stage since it will be covered with 2 part clear. I've done the headlight buckets, gauges, battery holder, wheel centers, etc. and I couldn't be more pleased.

No mess, no fuss - just drop plunger on bottom of can, shake it up and fire away.

..hey Staph, I used my can of spraymax clear this weekend, and have a question.  When I put the red button the plunger underneath, and pushed, how far should that plunger move.  I sure couldn't get a difference when pushing down on it, didn't seem like it moved any at all.  I went ahead and sparyed, and it seemed OK, but I'm wondering if maybe I didn't get the hardener.

[Master Ted]

I know what you mean on the plunger as the clear seemed whimpy compared to the epoxy primer. I made sure it went down flush two or three times and held it a bit t/b sure hardner emptied into primary chamber. My results were fine as clear set up as expected.

[Lumbee]

...so u'r saying that red button should go down flush against the bottom of the can?

[Master Ted]

...so u'r saying that red button should go down flush against the bottom of the can?

Yepper... did you just push it down until it would go no further? That's all I did.

[Lumbee]

...I put all my weight on it, and as far as I could tell, it didn't budge...does it spring back when u take pressue off it?

[Master Ted]

As I recall the button would spring back ever so slightly and slowly. How does clear look and feel?

[Lumbee]

...hmm, there was def. no spring to the plunger, and I don't think the red button was flush with the bottom.  The clear looked OK.  I must admit it looked pretty thin.  However, I don't have any experience with 2 part paints or hardener, so I'm not sure I know what to look for.  To be honest the can was expired.  I ordered it a few months back, and the manufacture date was 15Mar06, so technically it expired last week!     I gonna contact the guys I bought it from and see if I can get them to send me a new can..

[Master Ted]

...hmm, there was def. no spring to the plunger, and I don't think the red button was flush with the bottom.  The clear looked OK.  I must admit it looked pretty thin.  However, I don't have any experience with 2 part paints or hardener, so I'm not sure I know what to look for.  To be honest the can was expired.  I ordered it a few months back, and the manufacture date was 15Mar06, so technically it expired last week!     I gonna contact the guys I bought it from and see if I can get them to send me a new can..

The viscosity was, if anything, lower than I normally see in rattle can paint. Clear went down heaver/thicker than the basecoat paint by a fair amount. If you painted yesterday the clear should be pretty darn hard today.

[rhinoracer]

If you were closer I'd give you some of my leftover metallig graphite. Auto paints aren't that expensive here. A pint is about $9 and you can do 3 or more complete bikes with that.