Author Topic: Any good low-buck painting tips? (Read 6800 times)

KB02 · « **on:** January 08, 2007, 01:20:23 pm »

SO, as the winter sets in (or resists setting in as the case may be in the northeast here... not that I am complaining) I am looking at three different bikes that need to be painted.

I am also loking a very thin wallet.

I would perfer regular auto paint instead of rattle can, but the cans are not out of the question.

Just looking for some good tips that have worked well for people. You know, things like sanding vs sand blasting - warm vs cold painting area - ways to keep the misses happy if I do decide to paint in my basement ("What is that smell?!?!")

heffay · « **Reply #1 on:** January 08, 2007, 01:27:59 pm »

SAND!! until your arm falls off

then switch to the other hand.

a proper sanding job makes all the difference in the world in the finished product.

gpdesign · « **Reply #2 on:** January 08, 2007, 01:38:03 pm »

When I restored my Triumph on a budget I used some rattle can paint I bought at a radio control airplane shop. It worked and looked fantastic, was fuel proof and was very forgiving to use. The key is of course prep, filler primer and lots of wet sanding. I would prime, sand, wet sand, color paint, wet sand, then do a nice clear coat for gloss. Of course I can't remember the name of the paint brand!

dagersh · « **Reply #3 on:** January 08, 2007, 01:49:20 pm »

KB02,

Check out these articles:

http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_prep.htm

http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_paintin.htm

http://www.chuckhawks.com/further_thoughts.htm

http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_polish.htm

Hope they help!

Gersh

eldar · « **Reply #4 on:** January 08, 2007, 02:56:08 pm »

Something like this would be good to add to the faq's even though he is blinded by the HD marketing machine!

736cc · « **Reply #5 on:** January 08, 2007, 04:13:42 pm »

Latest trend for cars and bikes is semi-gloss paint, and a semi-gloss black rattle can paint job about the easiest paint-job possible (and looks kinda mean). A little graphic work using pre-made decals (stripes, tribal, etc) breaks up monotony.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #6 on:** January 09, 2007, 02:57:48 pm »

I paint. Quite well...

Here is what I recommend for a real cheap job.

Using normal body work techinques, get the pieces straight. Prime with high build primer from a rattle can. Wet sand with 500 or 600 grit.

When you are satisfied the piece is straight and ready for paint use the color of your choice from a rattle can made by dupli-color or any other brand. I'm talking about those factory colors that are put into small cans for touch up. You can probably paint your whole tank and side covers with 1 can. 2 at most.

When you are done take the pieces to a body shop and ask them to clear them when they are doing another job. Since it won't require a seperate color mix it should be cheap and easy for them to do. Tell them you want enough clear to sand and buff.

When you get it back. Sand of any dust particles and orange peel with 1200 grit and then 2000.

Here is the most expensive part... Getting the 3 stages (medium, fine, and swirl remover) of rubbing compound without buying a bottle of each. You will only need a few ounces of each. Perhaps the body shop would sell you a little of each for cheap.

Machine buffing each stage with the propper pad works best but a t-shirt and some elbow grease will work.

Done!

If you aren't looking far a top notch totally professional paint job just skip sanding the clear and buffing. My opinion though is that this step seperates a typical paint job from a really expensive looking paint job.

Bondo, sandpaper, high build primer = maybe $30
paint = maybe $15 for 2 cans
clear coat done by body shop = I'm guessing $100 but I live in California (this would be where I'd shop around)
3 compounds $13 each stage = $40 or so. Quality stuff at a body shop supply place in Ca. and is for about 12oz of each

I'd even ask the shop what he would charge to buff...

Good luck

Master Ted · « **Reply #7 on:** January 09, 2007, 03:07:53 pm »

http://autobody101.com/

ProTeal55 · « **Reply #8 on:** January 09, 2007, 03:41:43 pm »

I am a big fan of Dupli-Color low gloss engine enamel for that "mean" flat black looking paintjob.
Whats nice is the stuff is durable, and if it gets messed up you just do a quick sand and a re-spray !
I have been told this stuff comes in different colors (which I need to research).
So instead of a flat black you could do flat blue,red,green,etc...

Or you could Line-X the #$%* and forget about it !

Tank is for sale by the way

aptech77 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 09, 2007, 08:35:26 pm »

Its all about prepwork!!!!

Rsnip988 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 10, 2007, 01:31:18 am »

i used my angle grinder with different sanding "flapper disks" worked fine to the bare metal, then used a self etching primer and serveral coats of paint and the clear at timely intervals for drying, looks good

at least it did before my wife knocked the tank off the bench , so i'm off to grind and bang out a big dent (maybe bondo it if it still looks rough) and repaint

good luck

i second the duplicolor rattlecans look good if done right

KB02 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 10, 2007, 04:41:04 am »

Quote from: ProTeal55 on January 09, 2007, 03:41:43 pm

Or you could Line-X the #$%* and forget about it !
Tank is for sale by the way

Part of me wants to buy a K model bike just so that I can justify buying that tank.

Thanks for the tips, guys. Keep 'em coming!!!!

c_kyle · « **Reply #12 on:** January 10, 2007, 05:16:07 am »

Try taking your tank and side covers to your local community college's autobody class and get them to do the work for like $50. Seriously, when I was 16, I had my GTO painted there and they did a hell of a job. It cost me the price of materials + 10%, which still stands today, 13 years later.

Daves_76_SS · « **Reply #13 on:** January 10, 2007, 05:48:27 am »

I plan on getting my bike painted as soon as everything else is done. I decided to rattle can a two tone type paint job on it until I got it finished because the original paint on the top was faded. All I can say is PREP, PREP, PREP!!! I think it came out looking very good! In fact I like it so much that I am going to get it profesionaly painted the exact same way!

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #14 on:** January 10, 2007, 05:55:17 am »

I like that tank finish. Can you take a pic from the side and post it?

hahnda · « **Reply #15 on:** January 10, 2007, 08:47:59 am »

I have used this method and had very good success.

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm

Rsnip988 · « **Reply #16 on:** January 10, 2007, 08:50:47 am »

Quote from: Daves_76_SS on January 10, 2007, 05:48:27 am

I plan on getting my bike painted as soon as everything else is done. I decided to rattle can a two tone type paint job on it until I got it finished because the original paint on the top was faded. All I can say is PREP, PREP, PREP!!! I think it came out looking very good! In fact I like it so much that I am going to get it profesionaly painted the exact same way!

is that flat blaco with red gloss, sweet looker

eldar · « **Reply #17 on:** January 10, 2007, 08:16:39 pm »

hey bob, could we get a few of these things in the faqs for future use?

Lumbee · « **Reply #18 on:** January 11, 2007, 07:29:03 am »

Quote from: dagersh on January 08, 2007, 01:49:20 pm

KB02,

Check out these articles:

http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_prep.htm

http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_paintin.htm

http://www.chuckhawks.com/further_thoughts.htm

http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_polish.htm

Hope they help!

Gersh

...thats what I followed to do my bike, and ended up with this...

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/marklocklear/album/576460762330161646/photo/294928803427478175/12

...not bad for about $30 worth of supplies...and a bunch of hours of work. Not very gas resistant though...

Master Ted · « **Reply #19 on:** January 11, 2007, 08:31:26 am »

I can't say enough about the rather new on the market two part primers and clear in a rattle can. Application and outcome is outstanding! Never have I used a rattle can with results equal to a pro gun except for this product. $22 per can.

With the epoxy primer you can skip the need for any sealers. The base coat can be just about anything w/o even the need for a 2 stage since it will be covered with 2 part clear. I've done the headlight buckets, gauges, battery holder, wheel centers, etc. and I couldn't be more pleased.

No mess, no fuss - just drop plunger on bottom of can, shake it up and fire away.

Lumbee · « **Reply #20 on:** January 11, 2007, 08:32:58 am »

Quote from: staphcar on January 11, 2007, 08:31:26 am

I can't say enough about the rather new on the market two part primers and clear in a rattle can. Application and outcome is outstanding! Never have I used a rattle can with results equal to a pro gun except for this product. $22 per can.

With the epoxy primer you can skip the need for any sealers. The base coat can be just about anything w/o even the need for a 2 stage since it will be covered with 2 part clear. I've done the headlight buckets, gauges, battery holder, wheel centers, etc. and I couldn't be more pleased.

No mess, no fuss - just drop plunger on bottom of can, shake it up and fire away.

...so what brand are you using?

hahnda · « **Reply #21 on:** January 11, 2007, 08:33:17 am »

I have heard about that 2-part clear in a can but haven't found it yet. Where are you getting it?

Master Ted · « **Reply #22 on:** January 11, 2007, 08:53:41 am »

My local autopaint supply carries it... You might want to ask them to order it for you - counter jockeys tell me the local bodyshops love it for the small jobs.

http://www.belton.de/en/b2/p2400.html

ps. Remember this is the real deal as it contains isocyanates! Proper mask required.

Lumbee · « **Reply #23 on:** January 11, 2007, 09:09:55 am »

http://bradystools.stores.yahoo.net/twoparacucl1.html

hahnda · « **Reply #24 on:** January 11, 2007, 09:10:36 am »

Actually found it on Amazon also.

http://www.amazon.com/Two-Part-Clearcoat-11-8-Aerosol/dp/B000KRQI6I

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Author Topic: Any good low-buck painting tips? (Read 6800 times)

eldar

Daves_76_SS

eldar