Author Topic: 1974 CB750, new bike, new owner, new user, and new questions :P (Read 10193 times)

piefairy · « **Reply #75 on:** May 25, 2018, 03:45:03 PM »

I ended up loosening all of the bolts holding the motor in place and jacked up the engine, still not enough room. Fortunately/unfortunately the bike decided it wanted to lay down... so while it was on its side I was able to get a better look at what I was dealing with. I raised the motor up as high as I could with a wood board. I still couldn't get a socket with a right angle drive on the bolt. I hit it with a torch again, then took a flat screwdriver and a hammer and hit the edge of the retaining plate that actually holds the switch in place. It finally broke free. Replaced the switch, re seated it, and picked the bike up to see if there was any damage. Luckily there doesn't seem to be. I have a lot of the parts off the bike, the only thing that looks like it took a hit was the points cover, which was already dented when I purchased the bike. I have 2 new condensers to put in there are well since one was dented.

Thanks for the help.

piefairy · « **Reply #76 on:** June 01, 2018, 12:01:30 PM »

CalJ, was riding the bike a bit today and noticed the horn would blip a little bit at higher rpms, 5500 ish. Is that a low battery alert? I know the battery is undersized for the bike. The shop reccomend what I think is a 6 cell lipo and I've since heard I should have at least an 8 or 12 to make up for the poor efenciency of the older field coils.

calj737 · « **Reply #77 on:** June 01, 2018, 02:53:45 PM »

Yup. What instrument gauge are you running?

piefairy · « **Reply #78 on:** June 01, 2018, 06:07:43 PM »

I have a moto mini, but I have yet to figure out how to get them to "talk" to each other... if they are supposed to.

I have Ricks rec/reg on the bike, and I can see it charging the battery via the m-ride app, but after startup, the bike will drop from 13.4v to about 11 to 10.5. Ignition upon connecting to the phone is pulling 1-1.5 amps even before starting the bike. It seems to stay balanced at around 2500 rpm, it will "charge" at about 3000 to 3500, and seems to drain above that.

Cant really play with it for a bit, the carbs are being synced/rebuilt at the moment, but I am trying to prep for when its back.

piefairy · « **Reply #79 on:** June 01, 2018, 07:51:04 PM »

Also, this is the battery I have installed.
https://shoraipower.com/products?action=vehicle&type=175&make=380711&model=380755&year=380755

Is it a bit underpowered?

calj737 · « **Reply #80 on:** June 02, 2018, 03:09:44 AM »

Quote from: piefairy on June 01, 2018, 06:07:43 PM

I have Ricks rec/reg on the bike, and I can see it charging the battery via the m-ride app, but after startup, the bike will drop from 13.4v to about 11 to 10.5. Ignition upon connecting to the phone is pulling 1-1.5 amps even before starting the bike. It seems to stay balanced at around 2500 rpm, it will "charge" at about 3000 to 3500, and seems to drain above that.

Then something is wrong. Yes, activating the M-Unit (just like turning the key ON) will cause a voltage drop in the battery. But dropping to 10.5v is an indication of a bad battery, at least, a heavily discharged battery. What headlight are you using? What is the wattage rating of LO and HI on that bulb?

The Reg/Rec should instate a charge above 2,500 as the stator of the bike has that minimum before it can create a surplus voltage beyond the standard demand of the motor. If you aren't seeing a surplus voltage until 3,500, then you have a significant demand on the electrical system. AND, you bike should not "drain" above 3,500. You should see the Regulator stop the output at a maximum of 14.8v to protect the battery.

Did you ever remove the GREEN from the battery NEG to M-Unit like I said before? Isolate the battery GROUND to the frame/engine mounting point. Then run a separate GROUND for the M-Unit to the frame. Then use your meter, and start checking Ohms between the NEG terminal and the M-Unit ground screw. I suspect your install is inhibiting the battery from re-charging via the R/R. Clean, bare metal for battery NEG termination.

piefairy · « **Reply #81 on:** June 02, 2018, 01:41:14 PM »

There are only 4 wires connected to the neg terminal on the battery, one is the negative to stock frame ground, one is for the recharge plug/battery tender, and the third is to a USB charger that is on board, last is the black ref wire from R/R if I remember correctly. The M-unit is getting its ground from the accessory tray I mounted it to, the NEG to the battery terminal is one of the bolts to mount the tray. Paint has been sanded off at this and all contact points. The POS for the USB is wired to AUX 2. Sorry, I also misspoke when I said voltage would drop PRIOR to ignition. It is immediately after ignition that the voltage level drops to between 11 and 10.5. It will get back up to around 12V in about 10 seconds of idle, but again, my bike is idling high.

I am running a 10W headlamp with integrated turn signals
https://www.dimecitycycles.com/bikemaster-led-headlight-with-integrated-turn-signals-7-amber.html

The only other lights I have on the bike are a set of rear LED brake/turn signals and a pair of bar end lights. Neither of these should pull much. One thought I had is that everything I am running is run in parallel, but the bike should have enough amps in it to compensate. All the lighting is grounded at its installation point, but I have checked the ground point resistance to the battery NEG and it reads at 0ohms at all point, but that does not ensure how "clean" the flow is.

Did that battery look like it has enough power? I know its the same/similar to one I saw in your builds, but its a different size engine. Another note is that to get the bike above 3500 rpm takes some work since its running so rich and there is a power dropoff right at the start of what should be the power band of the bike. 5500 to 6k RPM is the most the bike will put out and if I throttle further the RPMs stay the same but the cylinders start to sound rough and backfire increases.

I did not have my phone accessible while I was riding to really monitor the voltage, all of my charging/discharging observations are done from neutral.

calj737 · « **Reply #82 on:** June 02, 2018, 02:04:07 PM »

If I read correctly, you have Reg/Rec BLACK connected to NEG?

That is a powered wire (depending upon your Reg/Rec). If that’s true, IMMEDIATELY disconnect that BLACK and route it to LOCK (as I’m sure I’ve said countless times).

piefairy · « **Reply #83 on:** June 02, 2018, 04:32:40 PM »

I'm sure I am mistaken then. I will check it again as soon as I can. Its in a friends shop at the moment to get the carbs balanced.

calj737 · « **Reply #84 on:** June 02, 2018, 04:44:56 PM »

Well tell him to check that before he continues to run the motor. Electronic damage is about to ensue.

piefairy · « **Reply #85 on:** June 02, 2018, 05:04:57 PM »

I will. I do imagine that I do not have that wire connected to NEG. I connected it to AUX2. I remember the conversation you had and that I have both AUX2 ports filled. I know my LOCK has no connection unless I am bypassing the bluetooth connection. I noticed that even if the phone dies or looses connection the LOCK will not trip unless the bike is shut off.

I am wondering though if I bought the standard or the lithium version of RR... The only order I don't have an itemized receipt on is the battery and the regulator...

Also, Calj I forgot to ask. I wired the tach pickup on the moto mini to the negative of one of the two I guess would be ignition coils? The two large capacitor looking items under the tank. Does this give an accurate tach reading on a 4 cyl since the coil supports 2 cylinders or should I cut the value in half? 2k rpm would be 1k? I'm not sure if 1 rotation is done by 2 cylinders per cycle or not.

piefairy · « **Reply #86 on:** June 04, 2018, 02:15:17 PM »

Calj,

Just got the reply from the company I bought the reg/rec from and it seems I did indeed buy the standard rec/reg, not the lipo. Could this be the problem with the charging while riding? I know it is bad for the battery, but hopefully since I only have about 20 to 30 miles on it, the battery will be ok after replacing the rec/reg.

calj737 · « **Reply #87 on:** June 04, 2018, 02:24:56 PM »

The problem is that you are having with the charging system are not based upon the incorrect regulator rectifier but how the unit you have is wired.

piefairy · « **Reply #88 on:** June 04, 2018, 02:26:41 PM »

Ok, so the 10-100 Ricks Reg is correct then. Thanks, just wanted to make sure. I'm trying to think of the possible issues before I get it back so I can have parts on hand if needed.

calj737 · « **Reply #89 on:** June 04, 2018, 03:06:11 PM »

10-100 works well enough if properly wired. Their new 14-100 (?) would be my preference gong forward as it’s Lithium targeted.

piefairy · « **Reply #90 on:** June 04, 2018, 05:04:16 PM »

Thats the unit I saw and thought I made a mistake. The site I bought off of, as well as RR's site, says nothing about lithium.

calj737 · « **Reply #91 on:** June 05, 2018, 02:22:02 AM »

Quote from: piefairy on June 04, 2018, 05:04:16 PM

Thats the unit I saw and thought I made a mistake. The site I bought off of, as well as RR's site, says nothing about lithium.

The 10-100 is a years old unit. They have recently begun producing a lithium-specific unit due to the sensitive nature of lithium batteries and their growing popularity. I've used (as have many) the 10-100 without issue, but if I were to buy one today, I would definitely opt for the 14-100.

piefairy · « **Reply #92 on:** June 05, 2018, 02:31:01 PM »

Another question for you. With the Moto-Mini gauge and the speedo pickup. I know the M-unit is looking for the speedo input from the pickup, as is the moto-mini, but I cant find anywhere that the M unit will "talk" to the moto-mini, so I am assuming that I am just suppose to wire the speedo output to both units and calibrate them individually?

Thanks

calj737 · « **Reply #93 on:** June 05, 2018, 02:48:43 PM »

Nope. The M-Unit is nothing more than a power source manager. The only connection between it and the Mini is the AuX output to provide 12v switched power.

piefairy · « **Reply #94 on:** June 05, 2018, 07:17:22 PM »

Thats what I thought after going over it. Thanks for the confirmation. You would think they would have some level of data-link, but maybe thats for the M-unit 3.

calj737 · « **Reply #95 on:** June 06, 2018, 03:37:19 AM »

What "data" do you think would need to be presented on the gauge that would come from the M-Unit? The M-Unit Blue does have an app to allow you to use your mobile as a gauge, plus, perform some configuration changes on the M-Unit, but that still isn't a "data" feed.

piefairy · « **Reply #96 on:** June 06, 2018, 04:32:59 PM »

It was more of a thought about the units synchronizing together for speed, tach, time, trip, and measurement unit. I get that this would render the moto mini just a "dummy" display as all the actual processing could be done by the M-unit, but just was hoping the "custom parts" option in the app would offer more for the motogadget accessories.

calj737 · « **Reply #97 on:** June 07, 2018, 04:43:47 AM »

The M-Unit is not an ECU, it’s a programmable power distribution box. Even in your 2018 car, there’s still gauges and fuses and an ECU. You’re conflating the roles of devices into thinking the M-Unit is capable or involved in measurements other than voltage.

piefairy · « **Reply #98 on:** June 07, 2018, 07:00:39 PM »

I'm not conflating, just hoping/wishing/dreaming

calj737 · « **Reply #99 on:** June 07, 2018, 07:54:19 PM »

Quote from: piefairy on June 07, 2018, 07:00:39 PM

I'm not conflating, just hoping/wishing/dreaming

Then please dream for something useful.

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Author Topic: 1974 CB750, new bike, new owner, new user, and new questions :P (Read 10193 times)