Topic: low budget Kawasaki KZ1000 LTD resto, Vintage Stereo & Amish to the rescue

[MoMo]

Sorry for the long delay,  I'll PM you later.  I do have a pair of McIntosh speakers to go along with Canton, Bose, BA, Sansui, Sony, DCM, KLH.  Can't listen to all, can one? ....Larry

[MoMo]

Close up of left motor case where there should be a case guard that is on the other side.  Wish it was there as it doesn't look all that bad on the other side.

IMG_9384[1] by Lawrence Moulder, on Flickr

[RAFster122s]

MoMo,

Looks like you need to invest in a Caswell's zinc replating kit to handle those oxidizing fasteners like I do...
I will enjoy being back in dry AZ where some of my allergies will subside and the rust really is only surface stuff and much slower to take hold or doesn't really take hold... Downside is plastics do not survive.  Larry Cargill on the CX500/GL500 forum has a great how to on rebuilding tabs and parts that are plastic with cracks and he has become very skilled at it. When painted you do not know it was broken if you do not know what the original looked like. So, if you have the time and want to play, then you can take that broken part if not already in trash to practice on and develop your technique. I have a link to an inexpensive source for the large kit for the repair material Larry uses. He posted about it recently and I web sleuth'ed to find the best deal. I know how to find deals sometimes...if stores have web presence and my search tools can find their info.

David

[MoMo]

I used an old gel battery that had been laying around for a year or two to start the bike, it is a 14 amp but the bike requires an 18.  Positive end of the cable was missing, I had that copper electrical end that will do as an adequate replacement.  Bike cranks over slow but starts.  Battery fitment is too high and not long enough but will suffice until roadworthyness is verified.

IMG_9451[1] by Lawrence Moulder, on Flickr


Still less than a twenty spot into the bike.   As an aside, I picked up an excellent condition pair of Koss 4aa headphones at a local auction this morning for the tidy sum of $3.  Sound is fantastic, they are some of the best headphones ever made at an affordable price, think they were 50 or so back in the day(can't remember when that was though ).  Also, bought a half dozen or so early 70's books on two stroke motors for another 3 dollar bill.  Will post some pics and info on the books as they seem to be on the rare side

[MoMo]

MoMo,

Looks like you need to invest in a Caswell's zinc replating kit to handle those oxidizing fasteners like I do...
I will enjoy being back in dry AZ where some of my allergies will subside and the rust really is only surface stuff and much slower to take hold or doesn't really take hold... Downside is plastics do not survive.  Larry Cargill on the CX500/GL500 forum has a great how to on rebuilding tabs and parts that are plastic with cracks and he has become very skilled at it. When painted you do not know it was broken if you do not know what the original looked like. So, if you have the time and want to play, then you can take that broken part if not already in trash to practice on and develop your technique. I have a link to an inexpensive source for the large kit for the repair material Larry uses. He posted about it recently and I web sleuth'ed to find the best deal. I know how to find deals sometimes...if stores have web presence and my search tools can find their info.

David

That would require an expense that I'm not willing to do, especially for an econo resto. What I will do is take off rusty nuts and bolts and spiff them up on the soft wire wheel that is attached to one of my bench grinders.  Also, have a commercial blast cabinet to use.  Regards

[MoMo]

Awesome set of early 70's books
IMG_9463[1] by Lawrence Moulder, on FlickrIMG_9464[1] by Lawrence Moulder, on Flickr

[seanbarney41]

Larry, I own and have read the bottom one in the first picture...Improving Two Stroke Engine Performance.  Seems to deal with fairly primitive small displacement engines such as those for European mopeds/scooters and Villiers.  Of course, the concepts apply to Japanese machinery of the 60's and 70's as well.

Enjoying the thread, especially the vintage stereo stuff...

[MRieck]

Sorry for the long delay,  I'll PM you later.  I do have a pair of McIntosh speakers to go along with Canton, Bose, BA, Sansui, Sony, DCM, KLH.  Can't listen to all, can one? ....Larry

Sounds like a trip back to 1979

[MoMo]

Sorry for the long delay,  I'll PM you later.  I do have a pair of McIntosh speakers to go along with Canton, Bose, BA, Sansui, Sony, DCM, KLH.  Can't listen to all, can one? ....Larry

Sounds like a trip back to 1979

during my service tour from 66-70 I was able to hear just about every great system as most everyone had their own sound system from hand built(which I had) to high end Harmon Kardon, etc.  Fellow Airmen returning from Southeast Asia could afford most any top flight stereo and bring it back.  When I see high end equipment at an auction and am able to buy for a bag of donuts I can't resist the acquisition.  Priciest purchase was the Bose 901 at 150, Cantons were 50, Avid were 30, McIntosh $2, BA same two bucks, Sansui maybe $4, Sony pretty much free, 5 DCM speakers were part of an Onkyo surround system bought for 35

[MoMo]

Larry, I own and have read the bottom one in the first picture...Improving Two Stroke Engine Performance.  Seems to deal with fairly primitive small displacement engines such as those for European mopeds/scooters and Villiers.  Of course, the concepts apply to Japanese machinery of the 60's and 70's as well.

Enjoying the thread, especially the vintage stereo stuff...

Thanks,  wish I had the 2-stroke books back then as my preferred dirt bikes were always 2 smokers and my street bike was a Yammie 350.  Nothing like the smell of Blendzall in the morning.   Anyhow, they'll most likely wind up of ebay

[MoMo]

Hopefully, the KZ hasn't been stolen.  Take at look at the locks

IMG_9452[1] by Lawrence Moulder, on Flickr
IMG_9453[1] by Lawrence Moulder, on Flickr


I had to take the ignition lock apart and remove the electrical component, here is the Rube Goldberg special Kawi ignition lock, Key is a stubby screwdriver

IMG_9455[1] by Lawrence Moulder, on Flickr
IMG_9454[1] by Lawrence Moulder, on Flickr
IMG_9458[1] by Lawrence Moulder, on Flickr

[jgger]

Make sure that you use a JIS "key" so you don't ruin something!

[MoMo]

Make sure that you use a JIS "key" so you don't ruin something!

That is a genuine Kawi factory racing key.

[MoMo]

Checklist for test flight completed.

1.  carbs(or is that crabs?) cleaned and remounted
2.  brakes disassembled, cleaned and inspected.  In the past I made the mistake of test riding a Silverwing without attending to the front brake, which decided to seize and start smoking more than an old worn out 2-stroke.  Also made the mistake of not inspecting the rear brake on a bike, of course it decided to delaminate and lock up the rear wheel.  Fortunately for me I was doing less than 20, did not fall  nor get hurt.
3.  tires inflated. These tires are not safe for anything other than a test ride.  Story to follow at 11, well..............maybe waaaay later
4.  chain adjusted, inspected and lubed
5.  same with cables, especially throttle- long time ago I had a throttle cable stick WFO.
6.  oil changed and filter looked at(it'll be replaced when bike is given the green light for further repair).
7.  air filter inspected
8.  tank and petcock inspected and cleaned if necessary
9.  valves and timing, especially important on our sohc not so much as of now on an electronic ignition, shim valve adjusted bike
10. all lights working and system charging, which this does.
11. compression tested, first thing done.  I'm working on a 750 K7 that had less than 50 psi per cylinder, after a dose of Kroil it came up to 100 and eventually rose to normal after running.  BTW, never was nor have been a fan of the K7 and 8 style but they sure to run well. 

So I decide to hook up the remote mini bike tank and sync the carbs with one of my Morgan Carbtunes( for some reason I have two sets).  Go to hit the starter and Mr. KZ dies.   It had started every time until then,  acted as though there was either a large draw or bad connection(lights on, hit starter and everything dies).  So I check and recheck all cable connections, starter and solenoid too. Same death upon start.   Sooooo, I pull the battery and take it to Mark, who gave me the bike, to load test.  Wound up it had decided to give up the ghost.  He has a battery load tester, that may be a tool I need to acquire.  I spent a bunch of time troubleshooting not thinking of the battery as it had started the bike several times.


So I bring the battery back and had to jump the bike using a car battery.  No vacuum on cylinder 4.   Huh.  That was an easy fix-the tube in the Morgan was sticky.   Sync 1 to 2, 3 to 4 and both banks together.  Ready to ride when the new battery arrives.  I was able to find an AGM for less than 60 with free shipping.   So, I am up to an  80$ expense ledger

IMG_9365[1] by Lawrence Moulder, on Flickr

[MoMo]

Tires at 11, not here but it must be 11 somewhere

October of 2000
IMG_9380[1] by Lawrence Moulder, on Flickr

I assume this is unsafe.  Of course, I could fill it in with black shoe polish like Burt Munro did.  However, I will ride it around the block. 

IMG_9381[1] by Lawrence Moulder, on Flickr

[MoMo]

Spent some time ironing minor problems  while awaiting battery arrival ( spent some time perusing ebay and found an AGM with free shipping for $ 60, so total investment is now up to $80. 

This screw had been used to replace one of the l/h switch screws.  I was lucky a tap cleaned out the minimal damage that had been done to the threads.
IMG_9366[1] by Lawrence Moulder, on Flickr


Front turn signals were flopping around on the handlebars so rather than buy the damper I used an O-ring that I cut, wrapped around the bar and held together with super glue
IMG_9387[1] by Lawrence Moulder, on Flickr
IMG_9388[1] by Lawrence Moulder, on Flickr

[MoMo]

When I began to wrench after discharge from the USAF I always studied the fastest mechanics and asked questions of them.  I had always used a ratchet but observed Rich using this set-up the was waaaay faster, more convenient and easier on the wrist than a ratchet.  Plus, it only requires one hand as well as being easier to start a bolt or nut.  It is a sliding T with a ratcheting adapter.  I have a 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 set up, problem is the only source I have seen is Snap On, but most of mine other than original that was bought in the 70's have been auction finds so the cost hasn't been much.

IMG_9390[1] by Lawrence Moulder, on Flickr

Used to tighten the T/S bracket
IMG_9389[1] by Lawrence Moulder, on Flickr

[MoMo]

The Snap On 3/8 adapter is trending around $25 on ebay  with free shipping,  one would need that plus a Tee

[RAFster122s]

Hopefully you survived the ride around.
I have had that type ignition system on a couple cars whilest replacing ignition locks. Keys that lose their chrome plating inside the locks will wear them out and cheap keys are the worst.  I have wire brushed the chrome off many keys after it started to wear.
Total flush of locks with WD40 yearly until no dirty fluid is coming out has been helpful with old ignition locks. Recommended by a locksmith that rebuilt one of my car's ignition locks.
Manytimes the factory key blanks are going to be much much higher quality metal than most anyplace that cuts you a key.

Imagine your Onkyo is keeping the DCMs...that would sound nice.  I do not even own a tv.  I do watch tv but haven't owned one for several years.

If you need to tune a sound stage, Often a home improvement store will have sound deadening panels that are fiberous 4×8 sheets less than 3/4 inch thick.  Paint them in a latex interior paint you preverred color and you can position them to tune your sound stage or help with echos and other things or merely transform a room's base nature. 2x4 panels work well for this, so the challenge is incorporating them into the room.

2 Morgan Carb Tunes, enough for handling the CBX!  Always liked the Morgan products.

David

[Terry in Australia]

Beautiful work Larry, (or should I call you "Fox", as in "Fox Mulder"?) both in your haggling skills, your ability to fix things without spending any money, and those great looking stereo's, you made me want to find another stereo for my garage! I had a good one (when I say "good", nothing as nice as yours) but it died, which pissed me off because I'd gone to the trouble of installing some big arsed swap meet speakers all around my garage walls, but I'll find myself another nice one and install it, and play some of my cassettes from "Back in the day". (my garage is too filthy for vinyl) It'll be great to listen to Jim Croce and The Eagles again..........

With your spongy front brake lever, did you bleed your MC, as well as your caliper? All you need to do is wrap a rag around the top banjo bolt, pump the lever a few times, hold the lever against the throttle and crack the banjo bolt. (the rag is to stop brake fluid spraying all over your tank and instruments etc) Re-tighten the banjo bolt, and do it again until your lever is rock hard! (which might be a bit tough at 71......) I do it now whenever I have to remove/replace an MC, and it makes bleeding the calipers a snack. Good job mate! Cheers, Terry.

[754]

Proto I think makes those speeder ratchets, i have 2 brands here.
 For some reason, I like the feel of flex head bars and sliding T handles.

[RAFster122s]

What do you search for if you search for these on ebay or craig's list? What are they typically listed as?

I love my T wrench, std motion pro.
Don't forget you can get Motion pro's inserts that are JIS in 2 packs replacements for less than $4 a set at Dennis Kirk and others...

Off to get a Cummins 6BT reprimed from 20ft draw...  running them out of fuel is a painful experience the owners do not forget.

David

[MoMo]

Beautiful work Larry, (or should I call you "Fox", as in "Fox Mulder"?) both in your haggling skills, your ability to fix things without spending any money, and those great looking stereo's, you made me want to find another stereo for my garage! I had a good one (when I say "good", nothing as nice as yours) but it died, which pissed me off because I'd gone to the trouble of installing some big arsed swap meet speakers all around my garage walls, but I'll find myself another nice one and install it, and play some of my cassettes from "Back in the day". (my garage is too filthy for vinyl) It'll be great to listen to Jim Croce and The Eagles again..........

With your spongy front brake lever, did you bleed your MC, as well as your caliper? All you need to do is wrap a rag around the top banjo bolt, pump the lever a few times, hold the lever against the throttle and crack the banjo bolt. (the rag is to stop brake fluid spraying all over your tank and instruments etc) Re-tighten the banjo bolt, and do it again until your lever is rock hard! (which might be a bit tough at 71......) I do it now whenever I have to remove/replace an MC, and it makes bleeding the calipers a snack. Good job mate! Cheers, Terry.

Thanks Terry,  yep, I've done all that even put a cable tie around brake lever.  Did you see the post with photo of MC hole?  You might want to check out 90's receivers.  I just picked up a Yamaha with 400 watts or power for the outrageous sum of $4.  It was tough on my cheap arse old soul to shell out that kind of money The surround systems do not command anywhere near the money as an older walnut cabinet with aluminum face unit would...regards

[MoMo]

What do you search for if you search for these on ebay or craig's list? What are they typically listed as?

I love my T wrench, std motion pro.
Don't forget you can get Motion pro's inserts that are JIS in 2 packs replacements for less than $4 a set at Dennis Kirk and others...

Off to get a Cummins 6BT reprimed from 20ft draw...  running them out of fuel is a painful experience the owners do not forget.

David

Search Snap On ratcheting adapter David.  Not sure what the reference to Motion Pro Adapter means...regards

[MoMo]

Proto I think makes those speeder ratchets, i have 2 brands here.
 For some reason, I like the feel of flex head bars and sliding T handles.

Frank, who knows, it is possible Proto makes Snap On.  I bought a Proto top box at an auction for 30 bucks that is eerily similar to the Snap On one I gave to my son.  regards