Topic: First start after rebuild

[bambuhiphop]

With the C5, it's more likely that the static setting is off; there is no way to verify the timing with a strobe on those ignitions. You need to reinstall the stock advancer, set the crank to TDC, then switch to the C5 and hope you get it right. Better yet, if you still have all the stock parts, run the stock ignition while you dial the new motor in, then switch to the C5.

Still have the advancer but the points were toast when I got the bike. You have a C5, no? If so, do you have the rotary switch? I just relooked at the instructions and position 1 has the most advance. That’s what I am on right now. I think I’m gonna unhook the coils move to position 4 and see if that makes any difference. At worst I can eliminate the rotary as a suspect.

[DaveBarbier]

Is the C5 modified for the CDI coils of a 650? Or, is it a 550 C5 system modified to fit?  The characteristics and resistance of the stock 650 coils is different than the roughly 5 ohm coil of the points system coil.
Or, did they build a C5 system specific to the 650?
Not like it isn't needed with ignitors (?) and other stuff of the CDI failing on the 650.

David, a heat gun could help "overheat" or run your coils in a high heat situation but you can't carry around a heat gun and operate it while riding...

David

C5 comes with it’s own coils.

I’m not about to heat up my coils with a heat gun while running the bike to try and simulate them over heating, haha. Too easy to damage them or give myself a false positive or false negative. Much rather test in the actual environment.

[DaveBarbier]

With the C5, it's more likely that the static setting is off; there is no way to verify the timing with a strobe on those ignitions. You need to reinstall the stock advancer, set the crank to TDC, then switch to the C5 and hope you get it right. Better yet, if you still have all the stock parts, run the stock ignition while you dial the new motor in, then switch to the C5.

Still have the advancer but the points were toast when I got the bike. You have a C5, no? If so, do you have the rotary switch? I just relooked at the instructions and position 1 has the most advance. That’s what I am on right now. I think I’m gonna unhook the coils move to position 4 and see if that makes any difference. At worst I can eliminate the rotary as a suspect.

The different position don’t alter idle timing. Even if it did, it’s designed to function anyway. I’d check the plate is in the right position at TDC 1/4.

Don’t need the points, just put the advancer on, rotate the motor to 1/4 TDC, remove the advancer and install the C5 plate correctly.

[bambuhiphop]

Still on kick but life!!!!! Worked out some ideas on the sound and I think it is the starter. Doesn’t make the sound on kick and when plugs are pulled. Seems like the starter might be bad and is failing when there is compression.

[The Lone Builder]

just start it up.

I've just been rebuilding it for so long I'm just hyper nervous about something going wrong. I'd rather ask some dumb questions then break something because I didn't.

Haha! I know that feeling. Every day as I bolt something down, or tighten something up that will mean a BIG backtrack if it's not right.

Good luck!

[dave500]

congrats on the start up,that pink paper air filter on the breather wont work,youve swapped it out from being vacuumed by the air box,sitting like that itll just stagnate any fumes,you need to make it like the early type and have a long tube dangle down in the air draft to evacuate fumes,filters are for intakes not for #$%* coming out,itll only clog from the inside.,ive seen this often and its wrong.

[Bodi]

The crankcase gets blowby gases passing the piston rings, oil volatiles, steam from any water in the cases or oil boiling off, and any valveguide leakage... all with some (or a lot) of pressure behind them. You don't need suction to draw it out, it's coming out a vent or popping out a sesl and coming out anyway. A filter will at least coagulate any oil droplets so the bits around the outlet get less oily. You really should plumb the vent back to the intake to burn the oil and other hydrocarbons in the vented gases.

[DaveBarbier]

The filter as I see it is just to allow gasses out while preventing bugs and such climbing in. Only issue with the filter is that it’ll get saturated with oil and then repeatedly drip down the side of the motor. It’ll go from a nice red to a black in a couple weeks.

I’m with Dave as for routing a long tube behind the crank case in front of the swing arm. He’s not about to drill a hole in his pod filter box (looks like a cognito part) just to reburn the blow by gasses.

[dave500]

before pcv on cars they had draught tubes,looked like a walking stick hanging out of the rocker cover down to the road way,as the car sped along fumes got drawn out,was a lot of oil on the road back then!especially at stop lights where cars sat and dripped for a while.

[bambuhiphop]

congrats on the start up,that pink paper air filter on the breather wont work,youve swapped it out from being vacuumed by the air box,sitting like that itll just stagnate any fumes,you need to make it like the early type and have a long tube dangle down in the air draft to evacuate fumes,filters are for intakes not for #$%* coming out,itll only clog from the inside.,ive seen this often and its wrong.

Don't plan on keeping it there. Thought that was better than nothing while i got things going. The tubing I got sucks. Need to find something I can route down lower in the frame.

[bambuhiphop]

And I've been working on the nasty sound this weekend. After a lot of process of elimination I'm pretty positive the first idea from Scottly is the culprit.

I wanted to eliminate any electrical items as the cause. Rechecked my gounds, no dice. Check positive side cables, no dice. Bought a new starter, no dice. Wired it directly to the battery, no dice. It really seems it is the starter clutch... When I swapped the starter l looked at the gear. It looked fine, moved forward very smoothly, and didn't move backwards except against the cush rubber. I think when it engages something is off and can't keep up with the compression.

I've started the process of ordering parts to rebuild. Sucky, but not the end of the world. I found the thread that walks through replacing it without pulling the motor.

I'll put updates in my build thread for those who might be interested. That's here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,86158.0.html